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CIRCASSIAN LADF 

N'lAN C03T0UE. 



C I R C A S S I A; 



OR, 



A TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 












BY GEORGE LEIGHTON D1TS0N, ESQ. 



NEW YORK: 4 

STRINGER & TOW>~SEND, 222 BROADWAY. 

LONDON : 

T. C. KEWI3Y, 30. WELBECK STREET. CAVENDISH SQUARE 

1850. 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1849, 

BY GEORGE LEIGHTON DITSON, 

in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of t'.ie District of Massachusetts. 






fflOREY, P 3TON. 



TO 



PRINCE WORONSOFF, 



THE 



BOLD AND DISTINGUISHED WARRIOR, 



THE 



ACCOMPLISHED DIPLOMATIST 



THE 



ELEGANT COURTIER 



AND THE 



INTELLIGENT AND HUMANE RULER, 



WITH THE MOST PROFOUND RESPECT, 



THIS WORK IS DEDICATED, 



BY 



THE AUTHOR 



INTRODUCTION 



Concerning the intensely interesting portions of the world of 
which the following pages treat, no work has ever been issued from 
the American press. — This, then, may lay claim to novelty. 

As the Crimea — her oddly picturesque Tartar towns and gorgeous 
tumuli ; Circassia — the fastnesses of her invincible heroes, the 
homes of her world-wide famed beauties, have been visited by no 
other American traveller, it may be a sufficient apology for putting 
my Journal into print. Now, however, that the work is before me, I 
find in it innumerable errors, which should have been avoided ; but 
my plea is, that the whole has been written from pencillings, by the 
midnight lamp, after the fatigue of the daily ungenial labors of a 
counting-room. For the style, sentiment, &c, I have nothing to 
offer in palliation ; though I am well aware that he who impugns es- 
tablished laws however absurd, conventional forms, social rules 
which society holds dearer even than morality itself, — he who does 
not follow in the strait-laced sectarian notions of the times, exposes 
himself to the harshest crit'cism. 

The dedication to a foreigner may appear strange without an ex- 
planation. After having been abroad for ten years, and visited all 
the places which most interested me, except such as were included 
in the design of this my last tour, I resolved to wander into the less 
known portions of the East, where the European race originated, and 
which, from my earliest recollections, had given to my heart its 
strangest emotions. My Journal included a voyage down the 



VI INTRODUCTION. 

Danube, my residence in Italy, &c. ; but, I decided to publish, si 
seule?nent pour faire unc ?wvelkte, only that portion of it which related 
to the region under the government of Prince WoronsofF; and as all 
the favors, — and they were distinguished and innumerable, — which 
I enjoyed there, from first to last, were either directly from him, or 
through the influence of his benign and enlightened administration, 
I could not do my own feelings justice by any other method of ex- 
pressing them. 

The journal-style which I have adopted, is, in some respects, objec- 
tionable, making the writer, by the use of a certain personal pronoun, 
often appear egotistical ; mentioning, too, les affaires, which, divested 
of their attendant circamstances, may appear sans force : yet, a re- 
cord of the immediate impressions on the tourist's mind, as scenes 
arise before him, and events succeed each other, is, doubtless, better 
calculated to convey a correct notion of the condition of society, 
country and government, than could be communicated in any other 
way. 

A dawuement, of a somewhat recent date, more romantic, even, 
than incredible — one that has thrown around a certain region of the 
Crimea an interest as touching as it is strange, I should have noticed 
at the time of my passing there had I believed in it. I have since 
read an account of the affair, by M. Homaire, and shall give his ver- 
sion of it, which is confirmed by documents now before the world. 

The Countess Lamothe, — who represented herself as a descendant 
of the family of Valois, by an illegitimate child of Henry the Sec- 
ond, — in the year 1784, dazzled the Parisians by the splendor of her 
attire, as well as with her gaiety and beauty. Having induc- 
ed the cardinal bishop of Strasburg, — then in disgrace, — to 
believe he could be rienstated in the queen's favor if he would 
purchase and present to her a certain diamond necklace, he procured 
it. and handed it over to the countess, his mediator, who sold it, and 



INTRODUCTION. VU 

devoted the proceeds to her own pleasures. Finally detected, parlia- 
ment sentenced her to be branded, publicly scourged, and perpetu- 
ally imprisoned. She suffered the disgrace, but finally escaped to 
England, where it was said, that after a night's revel, she ended her 
life by throwing herself from a third story window. At this time, 
however, there arrived in St. Petersburg a lady, evidently of high 
rank. No one knew who she was, not even Alexander who received 
her with marked attention — her very incognita pleasing his romantic 
spirit, and heightening the charms of her person and the nobleness of 
her lofty airs. Two years later, she and the Princess Galitzin be- 
came associated intimately with the beautiful and pious Madame de 
Krudener, who by her vast influence, drew upon herself and her 
companions envy, and perpetual banishment to the Crimea. After 
much suffering, they reached the shores of the Euxine, and com- 
menced their labors to proselytize the Tartars. Within twelve 
months, (in 1823) Madame Krudener sank to rest in the arms of 
her daughter, the Baroness Berckheim. The Princess Galitzin then 
reigned as queen in her little villa Koreis, adopting an Amazonian 
petticoat, with a cloth jacket, and a Polish cap, which were in keep- 
ing with her real character. The Countess Lamothe, too, " threw off 
the beguine robe, and assumed a kind of male attire, but lived se- 
cluded. The only occasions when she was visible was during her 
rides on horseback, on the beach, chosen in the most stormy weath- 
er." Colonel Ivanhof, it would seem, fell in love with her, and took 
a house near to hers, and soon became acquainted with her. One 
day, overtaken by a heavy shower, she drove to his door, entered, 
and sat down on his divan, and remained lost in thought. She had 
a pair of pistols in her girdle and a tortoise in her hand. Soon dis- 
covering that she was not in a Tartar house, she exclaimed : " Where 
am I?" and in reply to some words of the Colonel, she continued 
with a deep, but thrilling earnestness : " Why have you divorced 
yourself from the world ? Ay, why ? Why die this lingering death 



V1U INTRODUCTION. 

when the world is open to you — the world with its delights, its balls 
and spectacles, its passionate adorations, with the fascinations of the 
court, the favor of the queen ?" Imagine ^my astonishment, said 
the Colonel, to hear her thus, in a sort of hallucination, revealing her 
secret thoughts and recollections. In these few words her whole life 
was set forth, — the life of a beautiful woman, rich, nattered, habitu- 
ated to the atmosphere of courts. She had a sword which she said 
was given her by a Vendean chief, in admiration of her courage, for 
she had often smelt powder among the bushes and heaths of Bre- 
tagne ; but she would never allow the Colonel to speak of France. 
One morning he found his intimacy at an end ; for a Frenchman, 

calling himself Baron X , arrived, and established himself as the 

Countess's factotum. The lady soon became deranged, and died. 
The emperor on hearing it, despatched a courier for a casket, which 

was found under the bed of the deceased lady, but the Baron X 

had possessed himself of the contents and returned to England. 

I intended, in the following pages, to have entered fully into the 
nature of all those institutions, which form the peculiar traits of char- 
acter that distinguish both the Caucasian and Tartar — trace out the 
lines which separate them — draw a comparison between the for- 
mer and the ancient clans of the ^ghlands of Scotland, and show 
all that there is curious in the resemblance between the laws 
which regulate the Circassian communities, our Indian tribes, and 
the castes of the Gentoos ; but the limits of the work prevented it. 
In fact, circumstances have induced me to condense into a few para- 
graphs a large .portion of my original journal ; which, however, shall 
yet be given to the public, if this be favorably received. 

A history, too, of the people I have been among would, I believe, 
have been most acceptable to all ; but the nature of a journal almost 
excludes the dignity which envelopes history : besides, there were 
opposed to it the motives which caused me to curtail the narrative of 
events in this present Tour. 



INTRODUCTION. IX 

I had prepared a chapter on the coins found in the Crimea, but wait- 
ing too long a society's report, which I deemed would be more ample 
and worthy of attention than my own, I was at last obliged to omit 
it altogether. I will, however, here mention one or two given to me 
in the Tauride. 

One of Sauromates I., having on one side the crown, curule chair, 
parazonium, and arms of this sovereign, surrounded by a Greek in- 
scription. On the reverse: the letters H. M. (the signification of 
which is not known with certainty) in a crown of laurel. Sauroma- 
tes I., supposed to have reigned about the year 15, — " dit I Aspurgien 
csntemporain de Tiber e, fils du Reskuporis et de Gepepyris" — " moun- 
ted the throne of Bosphorus," says Guthrie, " after the death of Pole- 
mon, whose widow, Pythodoris, seems to have retired to his kingdom 
of Pontus, where she was suffered to reign ; as we have two of her 
coins that were struck when queen of the country, after the death of 
the king, her husband." Mr. Pellerin has one of these, in brass, in 
his cabinet. 

Another has on one side the head of Thothorses, encircled with a 
diadem ; before it, three points, and surrounded by the Greek words, 
" King Thothoses." On the reverse, are the head of Dioclesian, 
crowned with laurel; and three points behind the bust, with the 
date — 598 of the Bosporic, or 1055 of the Roman sera. One of these 
in brass was in the King of France's cabinet. 

One, bearing on one side the head of a woman, and on the reverse 
a griffin, I could not ascertain the date of, though it is doubtless of the 
ancient Panticapea. Another, bearing on one side the head of Pan 
and a cap, called, of Dioscuri ; and on its reverse, a horn of plenty 
and the word Pan. This, I was informed by the director of the Mu- 
seum at Kertch, was from the aucient Cherson, once the maritime 
town of Dioscurias — differing from some able writers, who place this 
town far south of the Crimea, on the coast of Colchis. 



X INTRODUCTION. 

I had another, of the Sauromates. There were eight sovereigns of 
this name who ruled over the Crimea. The first one I have men- 
tioned above ; the last one, and the last sovereign there, reigned 
A. D. 344. In an interesting note of Guthrie's, he says: — "This 
name of a famous people (and which means Northern Meads, or a 
subdivision of that nation, dwelling or ranging between the Don, 
Volga and Caucasus), one might suspect was assumed by some of 
the Bosporic Kings to indicate their descent from the ancient lords 
of that country, long priory to the Dynasty then filling the Bosporic 
throne." 

The view I have taken of Russia's advance southward, will not 
at first, either in England or America, be acceptable. By the natives 
of the former, never, except to their secret judgment ; for they daily 
proclaim the infamy of the czar as he leads his armies towards India 
from the north, while the vocabulary of laudatory words is exhaust- 
ed on Britain's conquering hosts advancing on the same country 
from the south. The Americans require only to understand the condi- 
tion of the people subdued and being subdued — the policy of the vic- 
tors, and the result of their conquest, to recognize a pictur#of our wars 
with the Indians, the wresting from them their lands, driving them 
from the more sacred graves of their fathers — to assent to what all 
my observations bear me out in asserting, that Russia is cfoing much 
to civilize and christianize the eastern world. This is not being ef- 
fected by priests, who are said to be excessively dissolute, but in her 
immediate connection with Ihose semi-civilized Orientals, where she 
is striving, by vast commercial relationships, to make up the defi- 
ciency caused by her limited maritime resources : — elegant forms of 
refined society, and its genial influences accompany her. For it is 
not too much to say, that the most learned, accomplished, scientific 
men are around her every step ; that schools, those sure fountains, 
or divine rivulets of liberty, virtue, and happiness, spring up along 



INTRODUCTION. XI 

the way of her majestic march ; and that wherever her banner floats, 
there is securely planted the Cross of the Redeemer. 

Leaving aside invidious comparisons between Greek, Roman, Ma- 
hometan, and Protestant religions — each in their results manifesting 
some virtue superior to the other — let us think for a moment what is 
to be the ultimate effect of schools, steam, commercial intercourse, at- 
tention to agriculture, already felt since Russia's eagle hovered over 
the Tartar plains and the Caucasian hills. Let us then ask what 
was, and what has been for ages, the condition of the Tauridian in- 
habitants and those of that vast chain of mountains stretching from 
the Euxine to the Caspain. Living under the influences of all that 
is enervating and debasing in the worst forms of Mahometan, Hin- 
doo and Persian creeds, what intellectual light gleamed over that 
deep, dead, heavy, murky sea of profound ignorance in which they 
were sunk ? What commercial emprise, what new invention, what 
new discovery, what in art or science, has spread its wings in those 
regions, and, soaring, carried its blessings to mankind ? The Tartar 
lives in his mud and felt hut, and, much like our Indians, roams 
over the vast prairies or steppes. The Caucasian lives in his moun- 
tain chauminc, as far from the influence of civilization as the benefits 
of education are from his dreams. 

My love of our own more noble, blessed, liberal institutions, shall 
not deprive me of the virtuous right of doing justice to those who 
have inherited and are bound to maintain other, though despotic 
ones, necessary on the confines of barbarism. Some German formed 
a plan of destroying the sovereigns of Europe. If in those crowned 
heads (begging their pardon) there could be concentrated all the 
elements of despotism, tyranny and cruelty, I would mcst earnestly 
pray for such a consummation. But those elements are in the people^ 
and the hydra-headed monster cannot thus be crushed. Education 



XU INTRODUCTION. 

alone is the Hercules who can vanquish this accursed beast, which 
ever rears itself from the Lernsean marsh of ignorance. 

While I here acknowledge my indebtedness to the able works of 
Longworth, Hommaire de Hell, Guthrie, and others, I, perhaps, should 
apologize for differing in opinion, in any instance, from other travel- 
lers, though sometimes their own countrymen, and sometimes my 
own observations, allow me with impunity to do it. Mr. Spencer, 
who wrote two volumes about Circassia, I am credibly informed, 
never visited the country. A British reviewer says: — " If we had 
reason to suspect his residence in Germany to have been of very 
small duration, we have now a much stronger reason to suspect his 
residence in Circassia to be a mere negative quantity." The worthy 
Mr. Longworth, who spent a year in Circassia, in the preface to his 
book says : — " Klaporth's account of a country into which he never 
penetrated, is necessarily meagre and imperfect. Pallas labors under 
a similar disqualification. The Chevalier Taitbout de Marigny 
touched at three places on the coast, but did not travel into the 
interior." He then, after mentioning Mr. Urquhart, Stewart, Bell, 
and Knight, says : — "I speak advisedly when I say that no other 
Europeans have ever visited Circassia, always excepting the army of 
the invaders." The distinguished writer, M. Hommaire, on disclaim- 
ing the doctrine that the Cossacks and mountaineers could be of orie 
nation, says : — "In the first place, considerations founded on reli- 
gion and language, are not so lightly to be rejected as Clarke and 
Lesur assert." And, again: " Notwithstanding the assertions of Dr. 
Clarke, it is not easy to trace much resemblance between the Circas- 
sians and the Cossacks," &c. Judging, too, by what the mass of 
English travellers have written about our own country, I should na- 
turally be very distrustful of every report they might make respect- 
ing any other. 



INTRODUCTION. XU1 

With the most profound gratitude, I now recall to mind the va- 
rious instances of hospitality shown to me during my tour; and I 
beg of each individual whose courtesy was not foreign to a foreigner, 
to accept the most sincere expressions of regard which my heart is 
capable of ofFering. The Tartar tent, the Circassian guest-house, 
the Turkish khane, the Russian palace, the Georgian mansion, were 
ever open to me, and food and aid always proffered. My costume, 
though differing from that of the people I was among, was not laugh- 
ed at, nor my habits ridiculed, nor was I abused for my religion. 
Yet I was with those whom we call barbarians. On arriving hi 
America, I heard one of the respectable merchants exclaim, as a for- 
eigner with mustaches entered the coach: — "There is one of the 
baboon species." Soon after I saw a Greek followed by a crowd of 
boys. These circumstances reminded me of what Sir Joshua Rey- 
nolds remarks concerning the meeting of an European and a Cher- 
okee Indian : — " Whoever of these two despises the other for his at- 
tention to the fashion of his country, whichever first feels himself 
provoked to laugh, is the barbarian." Again, I w T as deeply mor- 
tified to learn that the Athenians had been on board of a Turkish 
vessel in our harbor, mocked the Ottoman and spit upon his food. 
I thought of the benefit that might be derived from our missionaries 
in the East returning, and giving us lessons in that hospitality for 
which the Circassians and Mahometans generally, are so distinguished. 

G. L. D. 

Boston, 1st December, 1849. 






TABLE OF CONTENTS 



PART I. . 

SECTION I. 

Introduction — Columbus — Companion du Voyage — Chateau d'lf — La Riviera — Italy — 
A "Wish — Last Night in Italy — The Valley of the Polcevira — Prezzolini — A poor Canta- 
1r i ce —Leaving Genoa — View of Genoa from the Suburbs — From the Mediterranean to 
the Euxine — Venice — Vienna. 

SECTION II. 

Leaving the Danube— Russian Steamers— Arrival at Odessa— The Russian Drosky — 
Ladies' Di esses — Money Changers, Jews — The Opera — Dr. Webb — General Scffbnoff — 
Lover's Stratagems — Russian Dining — The State of a Pole — Incident with a Lover — 
Quarantine Station— Story of the Plague — Sights in the Town —Albanian Costume — 

Ladies' Head-dresses and Costume — The Princess O Preparations'^ a Short Voyage 

— Choice of Route — Cherson — The Greek Girl of Odessa — A Soldier's Funeral — Cos- 
tume of Soldiers — Higher and Lower Classes — Tea-drinking, &c, on Ship-board — The 
Admiral's Cabin— Russian Ladies — Colonel Carganoff— Under Sail — Russian Navy — 
Strangers at Dinner — Native Music — Harbor of Savastopol — Proposed Route. 

SECTION III. 

The Crimea — Backsarai— Biblioteca — Aqueduct — Caverns of Inkerman — Origin of 
the Caverns — Russian Morals — Balaclava— Gipsies — Agriculture — The Village — 
The Cliffs — Tartar Chief— Patarodgner — Kibitka — Backsaria— Reflections — The Fa- 
lace — Richelieu — Manufactures — A. D. 1475 — Elizabeth — Sarheb — Chalyn, A. D. 
1777 — Trapeze — Caraites — Tchonfout-Kale — A K-Metched — Semivar — Sympherapol — 
Pallas — Motraye — Women. 

SECTION IV. 

Mountains — Flocks — Karassu Bazaar — Village— Theodosia — Dancing Girl — Ruins of 
Caffa — Manufactures — Historical Events — Venetians and Genoese — Cause of Quarrel — 
15th Century, Mahomet II — Kertsch — Tartar Camp — Historical —Fleas — Domestic 
Annoyances — Museum — Scenery — Temple — - Return —Tombs —-The Tomb of Gold — 
Statues — The Toilette— Monuments — Curiosities — Kertsch — Early History — Mith- 
ridates ---Tartar Hut. 

SECTION V. 

Eastern Coast — A Circassian — Passengers — Tea — The Engineer — Scotch Liberality 

— Lieutenant Anrep — Fort Anapa — Female Slavery -— On the Kocks — Peculation — 
Cossack Officers — The People — Fortifications — Ghelendjek — General Albrant — Cir- 
crr-?irn Chief— The Coast — Tnnb??' — A Pawage — Scenery — A Polo — Soocha — Gagra 

— Southern S< rvice — l'itsunda— Byzantine Church — A Priest — Abhozian 1 

its — Archimchira — Red -Tail- 

in; — A (. d — A Snp] 



XVI CONTENTS. 



PART II. 

SECTION I. 

Scene on Shore --- Illness — Homeopathy — Falling Tree — Encampment — On Shore — 
Evening — Dwellings — A Caucasian Family — Spinning --- Customs — Imeretian Ve- 
nus — An Offer — Encampment in Imeretia — A Hawk — A Lesghian — A Fieture — Fight 
on Shore — Swine. 

SECTION II. 

A Walk to Marane — A Russian Captain— A Gruzinsky — The Village and its Accom- 
modations — Scenery at Orpiri — Eunuchs — - The People — Our Host — Temperance — 
From Marane to Hoeny -— Equestrians — Prince Dadian — Caucasus — A Pleasant Visit 

— A Holiday — Our Progress — - Suram Mountains -— The Georgians — • Trees --- Gori — 
Streams and Robbers — Mtskheta —A Novel Scene — An Accident — Georgian Society — 
Georgian House — Tiflis —-Germans — Motels ---Another Georgian Soiree — General Sof- 
fonoff — Princess Woronsoff --- Prince WoronsofT— Smoking --- Kotsohobey — - Ball ar 
the Palace — Khanikoff — Ivanhoe — Mons. Marr --Calls — Our Soldiers — - At the Pal- 
ace — At Princess Bebutofft. 

SECTION III. 

Morals in High Life — Dangers in passing the Caucasus --- Preparations --- Arme- 
nians— Ruins — Mtskheta — Method of Building — The Aragua — A Caravan — Dusshut— 
Ananoor — Ptanaoor — Ocetian Chalets — Villages — The Passage — Steep Ascent — 
Kasbek - - The Descent — Mountains — The Terek and its Borders --- A Tempest — A 
Rock—- Avalanches —A Convent ---Kasbek — Larze-— Difficulty with a Driver — Cos- 
sack Outposts — Vladicawcass — General Nesteroff— Circassian Village— -An Interior — 
Reflections — Another Village — Circassian Village -— Ladies Slippers. 

SECTION IV. 

Another Mountain Trip — In Love again ---A Meeting— Customs — Another Descc;/ 
— | Return to Tiflis — Georgians — Designs Frustrated — Missionaries — Another Discovery 

— A new Guide —Domestic — A strange Bird — New Beauties— Russian Christmas — 
A Canal Ride — Another Lady — A Captive perhaps — A Festa — A Lovely Child — 
New Difficulties — Of Marriage --- Punishment of Crimes — Armourers — Amazons — 
Freedom of Women— Customs — Girdle of Venus -— Gallantry — Mental Culture — 
Population — Territory — Languages — - The Great Chief — Mansoor — Gumzalbek — 
Shamihl — Expedition of Salta — Nicholas' Letter— Leave Redout- Kale — On the Eu- 
xine — Batum — The Bey's Favorite™ Beautiful Scenery — American Painters — Messrs. 
Bliss and Powers — Samsoun — Sinope --- Apollo's Mistress — Diogenes — Bosphorus — 
J. P. Brown — Constantinople— People and Customs— C Edwards Lester — Returning 
Home — England and America. 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 



PART I. 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 



SECTION I. 

Genoa, September 23d, 1847. For the seventh SaCTIOwL 
time, I had crossed the Atlantic — had visited the introduc- 

7 tion. 

castles, moors, glens and lochs, which the " Wizard 
of the North" had enchanted — had stood an hum- 
ble pilgrim at the grave of the peerless "Bard of 
Avon," and by that of the eccentric Dean of St. 
Patrick's, in the gloomy aisle of his stately cathe- 
dral, and in the world-renowned "Poets' Corner." 
I had wandered over the island tomb of Napoleon; 
by the foreign sepulchre of Sir John Moore, and 
had rested in the proud Pantheon, — the meagre 
mausoleum of Rousseau and Voltaire. I had been 
at the home of Goethe — had sat on the banks of 
the Meles, where Homer first felt, it is generally 
believed, the rapturous flow of life — had bathed 
with the Hindoo in the sacred waters of the Gan- 
ges — had floated on the Thames and the Clyde, and 



20 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

S8C?I0N L heard my voice ring along the rocks of the Rhine. 
I had lived, too, amid those Indian Cyclades, in the 
New World, which awakened that startling cry of 
" Land, O ! " when, to the eager gaze of the long- 
toiling, disheartened crew of the Pinta, the dim 
outlines of the wild and nameless woods arose on 
the western horizon. But a new existence was yet 
to dawn upon me, — a new emotion was yet to thrill 
my nerves. Approaching the birth-place* of the 

coiumbus. "Great Discoverer" himself — gazing on and about 
to tread the classic shores of Italy, an endless pan- 
orama of objects of unspeakable interest unrolled 
itself before me — a gallery of immortal portraits, 
stretching away in the dim vista of long by-gone 
ages, was opened, and a novel and strange sensation 
pervaded my whole frame. When first floating into 
this princely harbor, how all the splendor and mag- 
nificence of the scenery which encircles it like a 
tiara of the costliest jewels, seemed to lift itself up 
into one vast temple, dedicated to Columbus, to 
Doria, and to the genius of her fame ! 

companion My last voyage, unlike other voyages of mine, 
was attended with no ungrateful burden, though it 
awakened the deepest anxiety — the life or death of 
a valued friend seeming to depend upon my medi- 
cal skill and unremitted watchfulness. A lovely 
and accomplished lady, fading under illness, on her 

* See Appendix, A. 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 21 

way, with her children to join her husband in * £CTIoy *• 
Italy, had been placed under my care, and each day 
that lengthened the distance from her native land, 
seemed to add new force to her malady, till the 
conviction was mine, that every wave which dashed 
against the ship preceded only the one that was to 
receive her and bear her away forever ; and that the 
gloom of so sad and melancholy a fate would rest 
irremediably upon me. At the most critical time, 
too, sea and tempest almost engulphed us ; and the 
lady's servant becoming ill, doubled my cares — for 
fifteen days and nights, my watching by the narrow 
berth, without lying down to sleep, being requisite 
for the safety of my charge. But, Providence was 
more kind than our hearts dared to anticipate. On 
a sunny and lovely morning, as we entered the re- 
nowned straits of Gibraltar, still marked by the ne 
plus ultra of the ancients, the pillars of Hercules, a 
crisis was reached in the complaint of the gentle 
sufferer, and we had reason to repose in the belief, 
that she would finally recover. It was a memora- 
ble day! I placed a white mark on that page of 
my life, to sorrows buried and hopes revived. 

On arriving at Marseilles, and finding that we c j!}5F a 
were to be detained a couple of days for a steamer, 
a few leisure hours were passed in visiting the prison 
of Monte Christo — the Chateau d' If. It is distant 
only a pleasant boat excursion from the port ; and 



22 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section i. tne interest which has been thrown around it re- 
cently by Dumas, as well as its own peculiar char- 
acter, will render it hereafter one of the first objects 
to be noted by the traveller in the South of France. 
This isolated fortress, its heights, its position, its 
cells, in fine, all of its peculiarities, have been ac- 
curately described by this ingenious novelist. As 
you stand on its walls, looking down on the foam 
that curls about its foundations, or watch the nu- 
merous snowy sails which, one by one, are lost 
along the distant verge of the sea, his pictures 
gather about you like realities. Monte Christo is 

disappearing in yonder little speck, and where 

is the sequel ? We must " wait and hope." 

La Riviera. No shore can surpass in variety and beauty 
that between Marseilles and Genoa ; more particu- 
larly the riviera, as you approach the latter city, 
which, in natural, native attractions, has no rival, 
and is most justly called, la Superba. On landing 
here, my patient, still feeble, returned to her former 
apartments, splendidly furnished, hi a marble palace 
in Strada Balbi, while our generous Consul wel- 
comed me with open arms, as the preserver of his 
estimable consort, whom he no longer expected to 
see alive, and established me as one of his family. 
itai } In this land of charming realities, of living ro- 

mance, and of \ivid, breathing poetry, a year has 
passed like a sweet dream; but its traces on the 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 23 

memory have left vivid and Raphael-like pictures, Bxenov l 
which no subsequent events can efface. Our drives, 
our promenades, our visits to the opera, possessed 
that peculiar fascination which Italy, and Italy 
alone, throws around every thing. During one 
season, we occupied H Picolo Paradiso, on the 
same sunny hill-side, and the same terraced and 
vine-clad walks, where Byron lived with the lovely 
Countess Giuccioli, and wrote his " Vision of Judg- 
ment." Welcomed at the chateau of the Marquis 
de Negro, we ever found there, in addition to the 
urbanity and intellectual wealth of its patriotic 
proprietor, the most agreeable society, to which 
all parts of the world contributed. It was there 
that I first met with La Stella de Lagnria, the most 
enchanting woman of this terrestrial cielo, and Lady 
Walpole, the most captivating of England's noble 
daughters. But, in no one of the throngs, assem- 
blies, soirees, operas, was there a person who sur- 
passed in beauty or accomplishments an American 
lady, Madame L., and who merited the high comi 
pliment of Lord W., who said: — "She is the per<< 
sonification of Italy's poetry." 

Nothing would please me more than to devote a A Wish - 
hundred pages to the life passed here ; but, as such 
is not the object with which I have enticed you and 
myself to this task, no more of it need be said at 
present, except that, in bidding adieu to a year's 



24 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

sgmo» i. happy home in Italy, as memory lingers aronnd 
my last evening and morning in her sunshine and 
shadows, I give a passing tribute to the scene. 

^itSy S , ht A bright, gorgeous sunset was throwing its golden 
light on the yet snow-clad peaks of the Maritime 
Alps, as I rode along the enchanting valley, to the 
westward of the city, where a murmuring stream, 
pouring itself down from the Apennines, refreshed 
the vine-clad, terraced grounds on either hand, and 
mingled with the blue waters of the Mediterranean. 
Lofty hills arose on my right, and were crowned 
with beetling, frowning fortresses, which looked 
down upon, and guarded with unceasing care and 
solicitude, every pass which led to the massive walls 
that united them. On my left, beyond the stream, 
were those deep, green, cultivated slopes, where, 
amid groves of orange trees, rose-bushes and the 
olive, were nestled those lovely Italian vilettas, 
which have a fascination peculiar to themselves, 
known only in that land of love and song, and 
comprehended and valued only by those who un- 
derstand and have sympathy with the character 
and habits of its people, or, we may say, with their 
morale. A convent, too, stood amid the clustering 
vines ; and, far away above and beyond this, was to 
be seen another, capping an almost inaccessible 
mountain, on whose sacred altar a lamp was day 
and night kept burning to the Virgin, supplied by 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 25 

those devotees who endured the toil of the ascent Section r 
as penance. 

This paradise-vale, — equalled perhaps by a hun- 
dred others which surround Genoa la Superba — 
loved for their own loveliness, loved for the associa- 
tion and remembrances, which they awaken in those 
who have lived here ; — this rose-path, burden- 
ing the air with the perfume of its flowers, I was 
travelling for the last time ; but I was not alone. 
Beside me sat one whose soul was full of the beau- 
tiful, and, like myself, drank deeply, but in silence, 
of that unsullied fount which Nature poured out 
in all her richness and voluptuousness, to the fond 
heart's overflowing. There was a transcendant 
voluptuousness in the light and the verdure — a halo 
which choked utterance, and left the spirit only, to 
revel harmoniously in its unspeakable glories. 

This stillness, this breathing of the flowers, this Tb ofTh? e7 

Polcevira. 

awe which sublime scenery induces, this swelling of 
the bosom, this filling of the eyes, this burden of 
pleasure the heart feels in such a place. But the 
emotions which we enjoyed, have not always been 
evoked here, if an Italian peasant can be credited, 
who narrated to me in detail the subjoined inci- 
dent. He himself believed it as fully as the scene 
of which he had been an eye-witness, when, on this 
very ground, the iron-hearted Messina battled with 
his enemies. 



26 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 



Section I. 



One day, an Austrian army encamped in the 
broad and then dry bed of the stream, already men- 
tioned, that flows through this valley. At night, a 
most fearful storm poured down upon the tops of 
the Apeninnes, which hem it in on every side. 
When the vast host was wrapped in sleep, prepara- 
tory to the fatigue of an attack on the city, contem- 
plated for the following day, the torrents of rain 
swelled every stream and rivulet in every gorge 
which descended to, or opened along the bosom of 
the Polcevira,* as it stretched away for miles into 
the heart of this rugged country. These innumer- 
able courses, rilled to the brim, united in this wild 
glen, and then in their combined forces, came sweep- 
ing down in one vast body with the " noise of the 
rush of mighty waters," while the tempest swept 
along the hills and howled through the rock-bound 
passes like a thousand demons, the Alps resounding 
and reechoing to the roaring Apennines. The sen- 
tinels trembled, walked hurriedly, then stood still, 
as gleams of lightning flashed along their bright ar- 
mor, and made the white tents appear like fields of 
snow; but, thinking and trusting that the sound of 
the swollen river was only the reverberation of the 
ceaseless thunder on the mountain sides, they gave 
no alarm. It would have been unavailing if they 
had, for in an appaling instant the huge breast- 

* The name of the stream of this valley. 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 27 

work of that terrific flood was upon them. Camp SECTI0y l 
and horse and baggage, and eighty thousand sol- 
diers were in a moment engulphed and swept away 
with terrific haste toward the sea. The voice of the 
struggling, perishing army rose frightfully upon 
the storm. The crash of equipage, the wild neigh- 
ing of horses, the scream of affrighted thousands, 
mingled with the din of the elements, and, with 
sullen murmurs about the battlements nature and 
manhood reared around, died away into the vaults 
of heaven. In a moment more, the sea had received 
into its troubled depths, the whole encampment, 
now more silent in its sleep, than when it lay down 
that night on the dry bed of the stream. They 
were indeed silent ; a terrible judgment pursued, as 
it ever should, the oppressors of Italy. But the 
tempest roared as before; the wind howled in its 
majesty ; the red lightning lighted up for a second 
the thick darkness and played around the peaks of 
the Apennines, and there rang in every iron-bound 
gorge the crash of thunderbolts which hurled huge, 
trembling, tottering rocks into vast chasms below. 

Day came again, and silence pervaded the valleys 
and hill-tops ; and sweet quiet and the blush of a 
lovely morning descended there, as though no mor- 
tal had suffered a pang. But where, it was asked, 
was the Austrian army 1 The billows of the sea, 
as they broke upon the shore, answered, — where ? 



28 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 



Sscnoif I. 



From that drive I returned to the palace of my 
Frezzoiini. loved friends, and from thence proceeded to the 
opera. Frezzoiini was the prima donna. She sang 
in " La Crochata." She gave the music with all the 
energy of her transcendent abilities, and the enthu- 
siasm of the audience, whose silence was death-like 
or whose applause was deafening, sustained her till 
towards the close of the last act, when her voice 
failed her, — dying away like the soft strains of an 
iEolian. The blood forsook her cheeks, and she 
lifted up her clasped hands, as if to plead with the 
enraptured thousands for forgiveness, then sank 
back lifeless in the arms of her attendants, and was 
borne away. She did not appear again, — she will 
not. Her fame has reached St. Petersburg, and the 
Emperor has already made an arrangement with her 
to appear there — an engagement alike flattering and 
profitable to her, as it must be agreeable to the aut- 
ocrat. A relay of horses even has been ordered by 
Nicholas all the way to the Russian capital, and she 
will leave here in the style of a princess of the blood. 

Again, in the domestic circle, I passed the re- 
mainder of the evening listening to a waterfall, at 
the Marquis de Negro's opposite, and gazing on the 
beautiful garden, Aqua Sola, and its occupants. 
a roor At a late hour, there came and sat beneath the 

Cantatrice. 

window, a poor woman, who sang for charity ; but 
never did any human being sing with such deep 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 29 

pathos and sweetness, who had not cruelly suffered. Sectiow '• 
The burden of her song was, love betrayed and de- 
serted; and, from the depths of a wounded heart, 
she breathed the most touching strains that ever 
won welcome. Was she a "fallen angel?" We 
did not ask. She sung often before us, and she 
never went away without generous reward, and 
many were the tears I shed while listening to her 
plaintive notes. 

I may say this was one of my happiest and 
saddest nights in Italy, — happy, in all that I had 
seen and enjoyed, — happy, in the generous society 
of my loved companions, — sadder now, that my 
year had been so full of bliss, for I was to leave all 
but the recollection, behind me, and enter on a tour 
to a land that no American had ever visited. Yet, 
when I bade farewell to my last evening in Italy, 
there gleamed, afar over the bleak mountain of my 
sorrow, a peculiar light which burned brightly as I 
fell asleep with the thought, — to-morrow, I start 
for Circassia. 

24th. — I was leaving Genoa. The old man had Leaving 

Genoa. 

risen from his afternoon's sleep, at the palace gate. 
Troops were returning from the campo millitaire, 
and the music of their royal bands was echoing 
through the marble streets. The shrill voices of 
the tawny fisherwoman, who cried dganchtti, had 
not yet ceased in the city thoroughfares. Shadows 



30 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 



8BCTION I. 



were gathering beneath peristyle and portico of her 
princely mansions ; but, passing through her draw- 
bridges, and through her outer, seemingly impreg- 
nable, wall, — the city being surrounded by two 
walls and fosses, — the blazing peaks of the neigh- 
boring mountains promised long to hold the golden 
light of day, as if loth to part with it, as it went 
up from the charm-haunted vales, leaving a pure, 
deep purple glow to linger there for a while, soft- 
ening, soothing and reconciling the whole to the 
veil-like obscurity in which beauty is ever reluctant 
to be concealed, 
view of A new scene had commenced, but the curtain 

Genoa from 

thesnburbs. j^ n0 £ ^.^ f a rj en on t ne preceding. Its scenic 
effect had remained in all its sublimity, and I put 
my head out of the carriage to gaze on it, perhaps 
for the last time. Parian columns, friezes, statues, 
glittered around temples, villettas and monasteries 
in amphitheatrical effect, as they climbed an hun- 
dred terraced hill-sides, now as richly verdant as 
the deep green of the luxuriant vine could make 
them. The valleys seemed leading to Elysian 
fields, and every height was assailing the clouds, 
as if to defy with massive batteries the very hosts 
of heaven. It was a vision of surprising splendor 
and quiet loveliness ; and, had a dying man looked 
on it as he sank into his last sleep, he might have 
believed that he was passing away from paradise. 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 31 



October 17. — Twenty-three days have passed 



Section I. 



away since the dreamy shores of the Mediterranean ^JJf^j. 
were left behind. To-night, the voyager will sleep D Euxi*e. e 
on the Danube, and, to-morrow, enter the Black 
Sea. Departing from Genoa, I crossed the Apen- 
nines, and descended into the plains of Lombardy ; 
and, in a few days, was standing amid the thousand 
statues of the Cathedral of Milan. Thence I pass- Venice, 
ed on through Verona and Padua, and was soon 
floating in the gondolas of Venice, and, like every 
one who has ever come within her magic influence, 
I was bewitched by her paintings and palaces, her 
scenes by moonlight and her music. I then steam- 
ed it across the Adriatic, and, turning northward, 
after a long and fatiguing journey, entered the 
capital of Austria. 

Vienna disappointed me. It is a splendid city; Vienna. 
but it did not equal my expectations. On ap- 
proach, it has nothing grand or picturesque. The 
mind, apt to associate a semblance of physical with 
moral greatness, had led me to make her as impos- 
ing to the eye as she has been to our mind, in all 
the diplomatic intrigues of European potentates. 
Having remained there several days, I took a boat 
to descend the Danube. All the important places 
along the river were visited. The people generally 
were found less intelligent and enterprizing than I 
supposed; and the scenery, in some places, was 



32 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 



Section I. 



more tame, and, in others, vastly more majestic 
than is usually imagined. I shall repose to-night 
in the cell of an old convent, and to-morrow resume 
my tour and an uninterrupted journal, and continue 
it thus to the end. 

Is any apology necessary for this brief — more 
properly neglect of all — notice of an extremely 
interesting portion of Europe, it is the fact that I 
would strike at once into what is more diverting, — 
the Crimea, Circassia, Georgia, Persia and Asia 
Minor, — into regions as yet little known. The 
garden of New Russia is before me. I am to pitch 
my tent among the Tartar hordes, and, with them, 
sweep over the ocean-like steppes of the East — 
climb to the homes of those Circassian beauties, 
whose brave brothers have so long defended the 
wild mountain passes of the Caucasus against the 
invader — descend into the sunny valleys of the 
South, and wend my way around, till I stand again 
on this continent. 



SECTION II. 



October 18.— On the Euxine!— Who could sail SECTI0 " n - 
here, for the first time, and not feel that he was on 
a peculiarly strange sea ] Hemmed in by the land 
of those ancient nations, whose history leads us 
directly to the origin of the^ human race, — whose 
steps seem hardly to have deviated from the garden 
of Eden hitherward, — whom we imagine standing 
here, for the first time, terror-stricken at the tem- 
pest, or timidly courting the gentle heaving of the 
waves, — one cannot divest himself of a solemnity 
of thought, akin to a devout and humble worship 
of all that is around him. Here, too, one is led to 
contemplate an incipient state of navigation — the 
first floating of a large barque upon the waters ; — 
then, to recall to mind the bold and fearless pro- 
gress of that northern and eastern horde, which 
came down upon the ocean with their thousands of 
rude, fragile boats, buffetted successfully her dark 
storms, reached her most distant coasts, and poured 
themselves over the western world, till the whole 
was overshadowed by the host. We recall the 

Grecian and Roman, the Venetian and Genoese 
2 



34 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

5EC?ro!f "• expeditions, which, with, various success, brought 
their wealth, their enterprize, and their industry 
to these favored borders. We float, too, on that 
same calm surface, which, on every hand, once 
mirrored beautiful cities, villages, fleets and temples 
of worship. The Amazonian queens held here 
their armed courts. Here, too, the greatest of the 
cynic philosophers caught his first breath of life, 
as well, perhaps, as the germs of those impressions, 
which his genius afterwards stamped with the dur- 
ability of the hills. He, doubtless, threw many a 
rounded pebble back into the waves that dashed at 
his youthful feet, and they, perchance, taught him 
some truths, as the falling apple revealed a great 
principle to Newton. The waters still roll on, but 
Diogenes has passed away, with the beauties of his 
birth-place. The palaces of the queens, the sacred 
temples, the majestic fortresses, attest only, in the 
vastness of their ruins, their former grandeur. My 
feet are to stand on these hallowed spots, and I 
shall be happy. 

L jSnifbe he Leaving the Danube, was like passing from 
the bed of a deep but gentle stream, into a vast, 
glistening lake, which, catching the golden tints of 
the west, threw back a rich and mellow light, such 
as only Claude Lorraine knew how to paint. Quite 
a fleet of vessels was to be seen, some near, and 
others appearing like little spots on the horizon ; 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 35 

some standing in, others bound out ; and, as the Section lr 
sun was nearly set, it lighted up the clean, white 
canvas, each appearing like a snowy sea-bird, 
adding an indescribable charm to the wide ex- 
panse, which, ere the sun departed, seemed turned 
into a sheet of molten gold. 

On board the Austrian boats on the Danube, we Russian 

Steamers. 

generally breakfasted at ten o'clock, and dined at 
six, which rendered the serving of tea rather a 
pastime than a necessity; but, on board this 
Russian steamer, we breakfast when we like, dine 
at two at table d'hote, and, at seven in the evening, 
sit down to a rich supper of fish, meats and pastry. 
After that, tea is handed round on deck. All this 
is charged extra, — and such is the understanding 
when you go on board, — independent of price of 
passage, and costs about two and a half dollars a 
day. But the viands are good, and are prepared 
with a degree of neatness which makes them sur- 
passingly palatable to all not prostrated by dire 
sea-sickness. 

19th. — The weather being fair, the sea calm, Ar $g* a at 
and our vessel under good headway all night, we 
found ourselves at early dawn enveloped in a dense 
fog, and surrounded by a forest of masts, in the 
harbor of Odessa. The vessel soon was moored, 
along a broad stone quay, already crowded with 

loaded carts, awaiting orders from the officers of 
2* 



36 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section ii. fae cus toms. A government functionary came on 
board to examine our luggage, and proceeded in 
his duties without delay, — exercising his powers 
with so kind and agreeable an air, and imparting 
to strangers such information as they required, 
that no one regretted his presence. He was oblig- 
ed, also, to ask each one the object of his visit, his 
profession, and the term of his intended residence, 
but even this he prefaced with an apology, stating 
that his orders obliged him to be thus inquisitive. 

In a few moments I was on shore, and taking 
the first odd-looking little vehicle at hand, which 
was a drosky, I started for the Hotel Richelieu. 
On leaving the quay, my eye fell on a long and 
beautiful colonnade of semi-circular form, built on 
the lofty brow of a hill or rather cliff, crowning it 
as an architectural wreath. The height it adorn 
ed, by a circuitous route was to be ascended, but 
the animal, which had started off briskly, with 
youthful step, seemed at the sight of the steep, 
to have suddenly recollected that he was aged and 
had toiled much, and came to the conclusion to 
lie down. A most unmerciful beating, however, 
soon called him to activity, and he moved reluc- 
tantly forward. The street was broad, and with 
great labor had been excavated in the hill, under- 
mining to such an extent several valuable edifices, 
that they appeared ready to fall. By active use of 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 37 

the whip we reached the summit of the hill, and SBCTI0N IL 
at once descended into the busy and more populous 
part of the town, passing many public buildings of 
great beauty of design. In a short time, bargaining 
for a room was commenced with the French land- 
lady of the Richelieu, while Madame' s husband 
stood by in silence, permitting the bustling, sub- 
stantial, and, it is to be assumed, accommodating 
female to be the manager of the establishment. 

The drosky is peculiar to Russia, and may be The Russian 

Drosky. 

termed a neat little carriage. It is as convenient 
as it is neat. Extremely light and low, the wheels 
small and delicate, it is used generally as are our 
hackney carriages. Sometimes the seat is made 
as in common vehicles, and holds two persons,- 
but generally, it is an oval, cushioned affair, ex- 
tending along the centre from the seat of the 
driver to the back. In this case one has to sit as 
on a side saddle, or in an Irish jaunting car; and 
where two ride in this kind, one is in advance 
of the other, and both occupants have their feet 
on opposite sides, resting on a floor, so ingeni- 
ously arranged as to serte for a step, and, in its 
graceful curve upwards over the wheels, as a 
protection from the mud which would otherwise be 
thrown upon the rider. It is quite a fancy little 
vehicle, when well built, extremely convenient 
for ascent and descent. It may come into vogue. 



38 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 



Sicnoir II 



Presses. 



at some future period, among our bloods of the 
Fourth Avenue. The horse's gear, too, must be 
described, or half of the effect of the picture would 
be lost. The striking peculiarity of it is the lofty 
bow that arches the neck of the horse, serving to 
steady and keep apart the shafts, to support the 
reins, and to elevate the animal's head. The only 
objection to it is, that it first suggests to a stranger 
the idea that the horse, if he go fast, is trying to 
run through a hoop. 
Ladie 6 ' Immediately after breakfast, I took a walk out, 
to call on our Consul, Mr. Riley, who is a rich, 
gentlemanly Greek, and also on the President of 
the Archeological Society. The former was found 
in his counting-room, surrounded by samples of 
grain, by which he, with many others, this year is 
making a large fortune ; but the latter was absent. 
A stroll about the town gave me an opportunity to 
examine it at leisure. The streets are very broad, 
and in them were many very fashionable ladies. 
The only peculiarity in the dress of these was the 
length, some of them trailing a quarter of a yard 
on the ground. It added much to the rich appear- 
ance of the costume, and to the grace of the wear- 
er ; but cannot be proper for a promenade. As the 
government employ poor people to sweep the streets 
and carry off the dirt, it precludes the necessity of 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 39 

the ladies doing it gratuitously by this" rather un- S£CTI0K n - 
pleasing process. 

The persons met were usually elderly people, all 
seeming to have grey hair and beards, though the 
ruddy complexion and active step often belied the 
appearance of age. The numerous Jews in the 
street had their long beard conspicuously silvered. 
The impression was, that none here were born 
young ; but, after traversing many of the principal 
walks, I returned home, when, presenting myself 
before the mirror, I found my own beard and hair 
as grey as the rest, and my hat and clothes literally 
white with the fine dust that had been float- 
ing in the atmosphere. This is one of the first 
nuisances to be met with in Odessa, and is caused 
by the street being macadamized with a white, soft 
stone, which produces an extremely fine powder, 
kept constantly in motion, during the dry season, by 
the strong currents of air which prevail around this 
elevated place. The genus homo were not the only 
objects that suffered in appearance from this. The 
trees and shrubs of the small but neatly-arranged 
garden of the Palais Royal, — a somewhat limited 
imitation of that of Paris, — were covered with the 
dust ; and, however beautifully green they might 
have been immediately after a shower of ram, they 
now looked as though life and verdure had long 
since taken leave of them. If, however, they could 



40 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 



SlCTIOIT II. 



be washed each day, as are those of the lovely 
"Aqua Sola" of Genoa, they would give to this 
promenade an agreeable effect. To avoid the ap- 
pearance of this on the clothes, every one who goes 
out, wears a cloak, which, on entering a house, is 
thrown off and left with a servant in the hall. By 
this means alone, can one make a decent appearance 
in a drawing-room. In the wet season, it is said, 
the mud is quite as objectionable. 
Money Besides the droskies, and the long, rich robes of 

Changers; 

jews. £ ne i a di eS) and^ n0 w and then, an odd looking cos- 
tume, peculiar to some of the Russian provinces, 
one is attracted by the money-changers, who stand in 
the principal streets. They are, of course, Jews, and 
they have before them a small table, on which is an 
ordinary show-case, divided into two or three com- 
partments, wherein are kept the different monies. 
Under the glass is a wire net-work, which would 
prevent one from inserting his fingers, even though 
he had brokon the pane. Thus, as they stand in 
their, sober garb and uncut beards, they recall the 
scene in the Temple; and as the stranger gazes 
upon them, and is called upon to change his money, 
he cannot but feel that they are a peculiar peo- 
ple, — the same to-day as in the days of the 
Saviour. 
_ _ In the evening, the theatre was visited. It was 

TLe Opera. ° ' 

something novel to be in a Russian play-house, 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 41 

though there was nothing peculiarly worthy of note Sectiow n ~ 
in it, except its limited dimensions, that the boxes 
were large, and decorated according to the tastes of 
the owners ; while, between them, rising to the top 
of the second tier, were small Corinthian columns, 
with gilded capitals. The drop-scene was a view of 
Odessa from the harbor, and it was an interesting 
picture. The house was thinly occupied, and the 
few ladies among the auditors made but little show 
in dress. The dearth of spectators, though the 
beautiful opera of Norma was performed in a very 
creditable manner, was surprising to the stranger, 
who could scarcely expect here to be greeted with 
this master composition. This opera I prefer to 
all others, and, as some of its music was the last 
heard by me in Italy, its own sweetness and its as- 
sociations filled both my heart and eyes; and, while 
I listened to the soul-melting duo, the author of 
such notes, it was easy to believe, would find 
welcome in the celestial choir. 

20th. — This morning was devoted to Professor Dr - ( ^ 1 bb ' 3 
Selenetsky, whose acquaintance was made in angua 
Vienna, and who had invited me to visit him. 
He kindly accompanied me to the library, where 
I found some books I wished to examine. We ■ 
then proceeded to the museum, which, though 
occupying but few apartments, contained some rare 
and very interesting reliques of ancient art found 



42 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

Section n. i n |] ie c r i mea# j n the library, on the table was a 
pamphlet, entitled "Memoires des Antiquitaires du 
Nord" published in Copenhagen, in which was the 
interesting article of Dr. Webb on the discovery of 
an Indian's remains in Massachusetts, United States. 
It is exceedingly gratifying to a person, when thus 
afar from his native land, to discover, amid the 
thousand records of a strange people, and of a 
strange language with which he is surrounded, a 
recognition of the genius of his own. Dr. Webb's 
article was in its original English garb, and con- 
sequently could give little satisfaction, as there 
are but one or two persons in the town who 
speak the English language. The Italian and 
French languages are more common, but the knowl- 
edge of five or six different tongues does not seem 
here to constitute so important a part of the edu- 
cation of all as it does in southern and central Eu- 
rope. In fact, it was some time before a suitable 
interpreter could be found to present me to Pro- 
fessor Mozekevits, whom I desired to visit and who 
occupies the place of the late distinguished Von 
Blaremberg, as director of Le Musee des Antiquites. 
Genera^ In company with our Grecian consul, afterwards 
I visited General SofFonoff, who gave me much 
good council concerning my voyage to the Cauca- 
sus. Gen. S. is a young man, plain and unostenta- 
tious, quite tall and extremely polite, of active ex- 



goiftmoffi 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 



43 



Lovers' 
ems. 



pression and manner, and is Secretary of State of Sectiox n 
the Viceroy of New Russia, whom he is now on his 
way to join in Georgia. He married a rich lady 
of this place, and appears to merit the high enco- 
miums passed on him by the citizens. 

At three o'clock, I rode to the handsome man- strati! 
sion of Cosaretto, an Italian merchant, to whom 
I had a letter of introduction, and who had called 
the day before at my hotel, and had given me an 
invitation to dinner. I was presented to his amia- 
ble and sociable little Genoese wife, and to the two 
old officers of the army, who wore decorations of 
honor. The elder of these two was quaint in his 
dress, and looked the picture of the old soldier. 
The younger entertained us with a story of his 
youth, — that he had stolen a sweet and lovely girl 
from a convent, by fastening a rope to a high wall, 
and scaling it, — then, before he could get to his 
inamorata, and avoid detection, after being once 
within the walls, that he was obliged to tear all his 
clothes and make them perfectly ragged, and to be- 
daub them with mud so that he might appear like 
a poor peasant. Thus disguised he was enabled to 
traverse the various walks and avenues, and lounge 
about the hundred corners of the old edifice, till 
he could give the signal and warn his waiting angel 
of his presence, and of the hour of departure. At 
midnight, after having passed two days without 



44 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 



Section II. 



food and drink, he found himself with his beloved, 
safely in the free road to the city. Here a new dif- 
ficulty awaited him, and his lady-love had to become 
a principal actress in the scene. Being connected 
with the army, he knew the pass-word of the previ- 
ous day, when he expected to have been able to se- 
cure his prize, but now he was ignorant of it; and, 
on arriving at the gate, would have been detained, 
if it had not occurred to her, that, as a Sister of 
Charity, she might conduct a decrepid and sick 
man, found by the way-side, to his home. This 
agreed upon, she supported him in his apparent 
weakness, and thus they passed on together, un- 
molested even by the stern sentinel, until the sound 
of the heavy tread was lost to the ear, when they 
hurried to that cheerful, elegantly prepared, and 
happy home, which she was for many "years to 
make blissful .to her lover. The old man told the 
whole story, even to the end, with an almost strange 
degree of cheerfulness ; for one would have suppos- 
ed that the recollection of his final separation from 
her, would have brought a cloud upon his brow. 
No one asked him if she had died, for each one 
seemed to fear destroying this bright vision of his 
youth. There evidently was in his mind a continu- 
ance of the idea of her existence, angelic and pure, 
which had with him no termination ; and, when he 
had ceased to talk, in the expression of his counte- 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. ' 45 

nance could be traced an illumination, as Sweden- Section il 
borg would have called it, derived from that fair 
spirit in the far off land with which he still com- 
muned. 

The peculiarity of a Russian dinner is in its com- Kussian 

± J Dining, 

mencement. Immediately before sitting down to 
the grand repast, you are invited to a side-table, 
where, standing, you will take a small glass of 
fiery aqua vita, some pickles, bread, and dried 
bolognas, for the purpose of creating a thoroughly 
good appetite. The desired effect is produced, and 
one thus enjoys prodigiously the viands of the 
country. We sat down to Turkish, Italian and 
Russian dishes, and, for the good wines supplied, 
our gentlemanly host was often complimented. 

The walls of the drawing-room were adorned by 
some pretty pictures, — Italian costumes, — the 
work of the fair hands of Madame Casaretto. In 
this pleasant labor she employs much of her time, 
as it recalls the scenes of her native land. She 
does not fancy Odessa, and longs to return again, 
quickly, to her dear, beautiful Genoa. She had 
many rich fur robes, which, she said, the cold of 
the winter obliged her to wear; and it was not 
without deep feelings that she desired many ex- 
pressions of love to her father in Italy, whom I 
was to see long before the fond daughter would. 

One of the severest trials which a traveller ever 



46 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

Secti °* n - meets with, is the continual breaking up of those 
pleasing friendships which one could desire to last 
forever. A stranger, in a strange land, he feels 
deeply every courtesy extended to him ; and, while 
the bestower is aware of showing only the ordinary 
hospitalities, the recipient is sensible of a thousand 
grateful emotions, too pleasing in their associations 
to be yielded up without causing the most poignant 
regret. He is to leave those, who, though stran- 
gers, have been kind to him, and he is most proba- 
bly, never to see them again. He believes that 
they will sometimes call to mind his visit, and won- 
der where he is ; while he, as he journeys on, daily 
turns his thoughts back to the scenes he has passed 
through, and never fails to revisit every spot that 
has been pleasing to him, — sits again at the hos- 
pitable table, listens to the same conversation, finds 
in all the same deep interest, and again bids fare- 
well. Thus will it be with him, so long as he re- 
tains the power of memory. 

After dinner, by invitation, one of the club- 
houses, of which there are several in the place, was 
visited. It was agreeably neat, and altogether well 
fitted up with billiard tables for the entertainment 
of its members. The Exchange was next visited. 
It has exteriorly a beautiful effect, on account of its 
style of architecture. A square is within it, at the 
front of which the wings of the building are join- 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 47 

ed by a lofty colonnade, — twenty-four Corinthian Secti °* it 
columns in two rows, supporting a handsome en- 
tablature, and leaving an open passage between 
them to the court and all the entrances in the rear. 
The exchange, the theatre, WoronsofF's palace, and 
all the public buildings, display a refined and classic 
taste, not only in their structure, but in their posi- 
tions. The Exchange stands at one extremity, and 
WoronsofF's palace at the other, of a broad and 
handsome street, between which and the edge of the 
bank, along which it runs for a great distance, is a 
charming promenade, bordered with trees and com- 
manding the entire harbor below, distant hills, the 
bay, and the sea. In this, half way between the 
two edifices, and in the front of a spacious street 
opening into the heart of the city, stands a bronze 
statue of Richelieu. 

On returning homeward, I accidentally met with 
a Danube acquaintance, Mr. Heaford, who had 
offered me a seat in his carriage from Galatz, say- 
ing that it would be found the quickest route. He 
had, however, arrived thirty-six hours later than we 
did, for he encountered some of the beauties of the 
passport system, and was delayed thus long, while 
his family, from whom he had been long separated, 
were anxiously expecting him. On his way, he had 
accidentally passed through a pretty village without 
having his pass vised, and, on his arriving at the 



48 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

y IL next town, was made to return and undergo the 
formality which he had neglected. 

21st. — Yesterday I was congratulating myself 
on the good luck I had always had with pass- 
ports, — never having been delayed an hour by 
them ; but to-day I have been sadly annoyed. Yes- 
terday my landlord promised to have my passport 
ready for me this morning, as I was to start at ten 
o'clock for the Crimea in the steamer, (the next one 
leaving in two weeks,) and I went away unconcern- 
edly to dine with my friend, satisfied that all would 
be right. On my arrival at my hotel, I found that 
my passport had been neglected entirely, and that 
it was then too late to make any reparation in the 
matter. Accordingly, this morning, having every 
thing ready to embark, I jumped into a drosky and 
taking Professor Selenetsky with me — as he under- 
stood the routine of the business requisite in the 
case, — and proceeded with all speed to the various 
departments supposed to be concerned with the 
document. After going to four places and feeing 
each person who had any thing to do with the 
passport, in order to obtain it, at an expense of 
nearly four dollars, in addition to the legal demand. 
I received, at the end of tw T o and a half hours, my 
own passport and another, — a long Russian one, — 
which granted me liberty to leave as soon as I 
pleased. This was much like cutting off a cock's 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 49 

head, and giving him permission to crow. The SECTIoy IL 
steamer had been gone more than an honr ! I was 
certainly vexed, but, as may be imagined, to no 
purpose. It was plain I was to remain here half a 
month more. At any other time, it would have 
been agreeable ; but now, the cold season was ap- 
proaching, and my route lay through a country that 
ere long might be impassable from the drifted snow 
and avalanches. However, I learned a lesson, and 
I will take my revenge by advising all travellers to 
put no trust in the word of the landlord of the 
Richelieu. 

After my disappointment I went to Mr. Heaford, The Fate 

. . of a Pole. 

and spent an agreeable evening with my companion 
of the morning. Mr. H. is an English merchant, 
who has resided here upwards of twenty years, and 
acquiring a little fortune by his own exertions, 
built for himself a neat house and some large stone 
stores for grain, all on an elevated situation on the 
eastern edge of the town overlooking the harbor. 
He has an English wife and several little chil- 
dren who speak three languages, and appears 
to pass a happy life. Opposite and near to his 
dwelling is an attractive, odd-looking building, 
erected and once inhabited by a Pole. Suspicion 
that he was engaged in some conspiracy against the 
government, perhaps created by a personal enemy, 
fell upon him. One day, when sitting by his own 
3 



50 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section ii. hearth-stone, surrounded by a lovely family — a 
Polish wife at his side, leaning her fair, intellectual 
brow upon his shoulder, while a little one in his 
arms was gathering together the long curls of the 
doting mother, who now and then changed the out- 
line of this picture by turning to notice the other 
children playing about the rooms — one day, when 
thus enjoying his little world, he was conducted by 
an officer of the government across that threshold 
he was not to repass, and on that same night was 
on his way, an exile, to Siberia. This is but one 
side of the picture. The other, shows an autocrat 
bound by oath, by heritage, by custom, to secure 
the foundations of his throne. Perhaps alone he 
guards it, while millions are ready to undermine it, 
and, to await proofs before convicting, would in- 
volve him beyond ability to punish, in the ruin the 
disaffected would make. The property of this un- 
fortunate and perhaps imprudent Pole, yet remains 
in the hands of the authorities, useless ; and as h e 
is now dead, it is not known what will be done 
with it, and more particularly since it has been 
doubted that he was guilty of the charge against 
him. 

incident This sad story was told by Mr. H., and I return- 

with a 

Lover, ed home and was dressing for an evening call, 
when, after a slight tap at my door, a young man 
entered. He had a dirty garb, half civil and half 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 51 



military, and commenced talking in Russian. I 
was puzzled both with the man and the language, 
as I did not understand either. I then asked him 
in Italian, Spanish, English and French, what he 
wanted, and he finally turned his conversation into 
the latter, and drawled in doleful tones, the sum of 
his hard fate. He stated that his father had been 
very rich, and high in office, which I did not dis- 
pute, — and that he had been well educated, which 
I had no particular reason to disbelieve, — that his 
father had indulged him (and consequently had 
spoiled him) in every wish of his heart except one, 
which was to marry into a family under the ban of 
suspicion. He loved the poor, dowerless daughter 
of a man whose property had been confiscated, and 
who had been banished from the country, leaving 
many helpless relatives, who were so watched by 
the police, that it amounted to a seemingly just 
cause of suspicion to visit them. Night after night, 
however, by the garden wall, by the private gate, 
he had flown to the nest of his dove. They talked 
of love, but never of marriage, for she knew it was 
impossible ; but while their hands were locked in 
each other's, she breathed into his willing ear the 
story of her wrongs, the injustice that was daily 
done to her innocent family, and the cruelty that 
was practised towards her loved father. He listen- 
ed till his soul was rapt with the sublime idea of 
3* 



Section II. 



52 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section ii. liberating his country, bringing back the exiled pa- 
rent, and wedding her whom he could thus make 
happy. He flew at once to that club of young 
men, who, in Warsaw, were banded together for the 
same great object. His enthusiasm had a power- 
ful but fatal effect, for they at once became forward 
and incautious, and the police were not long in 
finding out their haunts and abodes, and finally ar- 
rested them. He himself fled to France. But 
death was preferable to this separation from all 
that was dear to him on earth, and after wandering 
about for some time, poor, hungry and naked, he 
shipped as a sailor for this port, and now awaited 
my assistance to help him home. He said there 
was nothing in which he could engage, by which 
he could earn enough to carry him back, and the 
resource of entering the army was the same as 
stepping into the grave, for he should then have no 
hope of ever seeing his home or his friends again. 
When his story was finished, he walked the room 
in great agitation ; but then, as well as during his 
• story, I remarked that he took particular notice of 
every thing I had in my room, — that his dress was 
rather Russian than French, and that his look 
betokened more curiosity and cunning than sad- 
ness; and when I declined aiding him, he with 
much energy urged it upon me as my duty. In 
fact, as he was so determined, and would not 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 53 

leave the room as I suggested, I rang up the Sisctiow n 
servant to turn him out, having concluded that he 
was nothing more or less than a spy of the gov- 
ernment, who had come to sound my political feel- 
ings. I may have done him great injustice, and it 
is to be regretted if I did, but I could not resist 
my conclusions, for though his story was well 
enough connected, there was much in it that was 
improbable, and at variance even with the habit 
of the government. 

22d. — This morning at two o'clock, Mr. Hea- Quaran- 
tine 
ford called in his drosky, to take me to visit Station. 

the quarantine station. By one of the most dusty 
streets in the world, we descended to the great 
shipping pier, where there were probably two 
hundred carts constantly going and coming, loaded 
with grain. A vast number of boats were carrying 
it off to the ships. Passing this, we entered a 
pleasant avenue bordered with trees, and soon dis- 
mounted at a large gate, under a high cliff, that 
had been cut away with great labor, to form an 
agreeable ascent to the heights, and descending two 
or three steps, were in a small square thickly set 
with trees. On two sides, were rooms with double 
gratings of wood and wire, so far distant that noth- 
ing could be handed from one to the other, and at 
which the captains of vessels on the sea-side and the 
merchants on the other, are seen bargaining and 



54 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section ii. consu iting about cargoes, freights and business. 
From this we ascended the hill, taking a ticket of 
the soldier guard at the gate to allow of our re- 
passing, and, after a few minutes' walk, came to 
those long rows of low buildings with numerous 
small rooms, in which, persons coming from Con- 
stantinople, or that region, to enter the city, must 
pass a quarantine of ten days. Below these, on 
the shore, stands another long building, in which 
certain kinds of merchandize are thoroughly fumi- 
gated before they are permitted to be carried into 
the town. In this department, as well as in all 
others, the officers are extremely strict and formal. 
It is a great drawback to commerce, yet, as Mr. 
Heaford said, if one could once behold the ravages 
of the plague, as he had, it would not be thought 
possible that too great precaution could be taken. 
Vessels coming here from Constantinople, if they 
should make the trip in six days, would be obliged 
to remain in harbor, deprived of all communication 
with the shore, till fifteen days had elapsed from 
the time of her leaving that port. 
St< S>° f During °ur walk,. Mr. H. gave me an account of 
Plague, the death of a friend of one of his friends, when 
the plague, a few years ago, almost depopulated 
the cities of the East. The man had a wife and 
six lovely little children, his great fondness for 
whom made him extremely cautious during the 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. DO 

raging of this scourge, so much so, that he shut SEC7I0Nn 
himself and family in the house and yard, and had 
no communication with any one. His gates were 
never unbarred, and nothing was received into the 
house except food, which he attended to himself, 
making sure that it was not handled till it had 
been thoroughly washed in vinegar and water, 
which sufficiently purified it. This he strictly ad- 
hered to, till report said that the plague had ceased, 
and the commissary, one day in going his rounds, 
assured him through the small hole cut in the gate 
for the purpose of conversation and receiving food, 
that he believed the epidemic had disappeared. The 
inmate, happy at the intelligence and that he and 
all his family had escaped, said to the commissary, 
" I will give you something to drink for the good 
news you bring." He accordingly brought a tum- 
bler and some spirit and gave the man, then took 
the tumbler back, bade him good day and went in. 
The commissary moved only a little further on his 
rounds, when the plague seized him and he ex- 
pired. The gentleman within the house took the 
plague, and in less than thirty-six hours neither he 
nor any person of his whole family was alive. 

There is probably nothing in the world more ap- 
palling than the raging of the plague. To see 
human bodies and infected clothes dragged out 
from the dwellings by long hooks, carried by men 



56 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 



Section II. 



entirely enveloped in tarred garments, and then to 
see those bodies jumbled heedlessly together into 
an open cart and borne away to some common re- 
ceptacle, to be added to the still more loathsome 
mass already congregated there, must fill one's 
mind with indescribable loathing; but to see one 
dear to us, falling a victim to this disease — to see 
him die and taken away from us in the rudest man- 
ner possible and by strangers, and yet not be able 
even to approach the once loved form, — in fact, 
from a sense of the utter uselessness of our efforts 
and the idea of self preservation, flying the very 
presence of such an one, must overwhelm the heart 
with unutterable anguish and horror. 

The commissary mentioned above, lived in a low 
part of the town known as the ropewalks, and 
though the plague apparently several times ceased 
in the city, yet in that place it always broke out 
afresh. The government observing this, finally or- 
dered all the dwellings in that quarter, and every 
thing they contained, to be burned. It was done, 
and the plague has not since visited Odessa. 

23d. In company with Mr. Heaford, I called 
again on General SofFonoff. In the hall, we 
were waited on by several servants, and were in- 
formed that the General was engaged. At the 
moment, a refined looking, but very old gentleman, 
wearing numerous decorations upon his breast } 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 57 

passed out, and we were welcomed by the distin- SECTIoy n 
guished General himself. We were conducted 
through a large centre room, which had a wooden, 
waxed floor, and into a small reception room, car- 
peted and plainly furnished. He here entertained 
us till the announcement of other visitors warned 
us to withdraw. He will depart in a few days for 
his home on the Kur. 

In company with Professor Selenetsky I have re- Sights in 

the Town. 

visited the Museum and passed much time there 
amid its ancient curiosities. On returning home 
I went to my window which commands a view of a 
portion of the harbor, when one of the most pleas- 
ing sights my eye ever rested on was before me. 
Six large Russian ships of war, with all sail set, 
were entering the port together. There was one 
seventy-four gun ship, three frigates and two brigs. 
When near to the town, the seventy-four fired a 
salute. The sails, which a moment before had 
been swelling before the breeze, were now furled as 
if by magic, and all the vessels came to anchor. 
No Russian could have looked on this scene, and 
not had some feelings of national pride; for as 
these mighty bulwarks of sea and land rounded to, 
they displayed to admiring thousands their massive 
broad-sides and their hundreds of iron mouths 
ready at any instant to breathe the most terrific 
fire in their defence. They came from the beauti- 



58 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 



Section II. 



ful port in the Crimea, called Savastopol, where I 
intend soon to go. I remained but a short time in 
my room, for catching a glimpse of a new and 
pretty costume, I hastened into the street to get a 
better view of it. In following the wearer, I came 
in front of the cathedral, whose massive bell was 
sounding with awful tones, deep and rich, as though 
it would awaken the world. Two men were swing- 
ing the huge tongue that told the hour of worship, 
and while here listening and gazing, I forgot the 
object of my ramble; but turning down a long 
street, I entered a church, where I found a man 
selling little yellow wax candles at a desk appro- 
priated for them, while most of the people were 
bowing their faces to the very earth. Numerous 
very ordinary pictures, apparently of saints, framed 
in gold, toys and silver candlesticks, adorned the in- 
terior; but nothing imposing or solemn arrested 
my attention, or induced devotion, and I passed out 
on my way. After walking some distance I enter- 
ed a broad street full of people. The men occu- 
pied the centre in various groups, while the door- 
ways and steps of the houses were adorned with 
females. 

It was soon evident that it was the Jewish part 
of the town, and as this was the Jewish Sabbath, 
the people rested from labor. The men were en- 
joying the quiet, and were remarkable for long 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 59 

beards and long grey wrappers reaching to the Section il 
heels, while their daughters displayed their charms 
as best suited each one's taste. I am sorry to say I 
did not see any thing attractive in any of them ex- 
cept the pearl and gold bands which adorned their 
hair. It was made into a kind of wreath which 
passed over the top and centre of the head, elevated 
a little like a comb, against which was brought up 
a broad braid of the dark hair which heightened 
the effect of both, or, in lieu of this, the front roll 
of a kind of turban, or cap, which partly covered 
the back of the head. Thinking, however, that 
my presence here might create no pleasant feelings, 
and seeing that I was as much of a curiosity to 
them as they were to me, I remained but a short 
time, and on my passing into another street, 
had the pleasure of informing a tall and noble- 
looking Albanian the way to the hotel Richelieu. 
He was dressed in his native costume, which is, Albanian 

Costume. 

perhaps, the richest and most graceful of modern 
wear ; the red cap and blue silk tassel — the elegant- 
ly wrought crimson jacket with open sleeves and 
breast showing the handsome linen of the shirt, — 
the full, snowy white linen frock, hanging in rich 
folds to the knee, to which the stockings extend, 
banded round like the Highlanders — the feet encas- 
ed in neat slippers, while over all is thrown a rich 
mantle of cashmere, turned once, perhaps, about 



60 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

SECTIOtt n - the waist, and thus left to float gracefully about 
the form — all these make at least an attractive 
picture. 
Ladies' That which particularly drew my attention to 
dressaiid * ne lady passing my window was her pavisJca, or 
Costume. ca ^ worn by young women of some of the prov- 
inces. The cocauch,7iick, worn in other places as 
an article of fashionable dress, is donned here only 
by the wet nurses, and is the sign by which they 
are known. The only difference between the caps 
is, that the former is open behind and shows all the 
braid of the hair ; the latter is closed. They are 
worn on the back of the head, coming forward on 
the top to about the centre, in shape of a bell- 
crown hat, with its under side much shorter than 
the upper. When made of red velvet, having a 
gold band at the edge which encircles the hair, they 
are extremely ornamental, though in the street, 
appears to a foreigner to partake too much of the 
dress of the stage. Two other articles of ladies' 
dress worn here, are pretty — one is the duchergreca, 
which is quite jaunty, and the seraphan, which is 
elegant and graceful. The former is a kind of 
Grecian jacket, fitting the form tightly, till below 
the waist, where it is so full of plaits as to stick 
out like a fan. The latter is a costly skirt with a 
piece of short waist with straps passing over the 
shoulders to support it, like those of an apron. 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 61 

This upper part, however, is not of sufficient extent Section il 
to cover the rich point lace gathered about the 
bosom. 

24th. Devoted most of the day to writing The Prin- 

* & cess O — 

to my friends in Italy and America. In the 
evening took a walk along the boulevards, before 
described, where the people come in their Sunday 
garbs to promenade. A spot more beautifully sit- 
uated than this could hardly be found. The har- 
bor, the merchant vessels, the men of war, lay far 
down below us, undisturbed by the slightest breeze, 
and as the twilight faded into the grey of eve, the 
large, red, Russian moon rose round and full over 
the quiet scene, sending along the bright waters, a 
belt of silver light that seemed to enchant every be- 
holder, and many were the young and sweet faces 
which sent back its smile and its brightness. And 
here it was, I was told, that the emperor Nicholas 
first saw the beautiful Princess O . She at- 
tracted him by her elegant and winning mien, then 
by her peerless beauty, and then by her fascinating 
conversation modulated only to charm. We will 
not do so much discredit to the good taste and 
the gentler sensibilities of his nature as to suppose 
that he could be surrounded by the halo of such 
inimitable loveliness and not feel its effects, nor 
will we suppose that the handsomest man in the 
Russian empire and he the Emperor, could fail to 



62 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section ii. w [ n ^g near t f a subject on whom he had conde- 
scended to bestow his admiration and affection. I 
do not know that he did either; those who have 
been at the court can better judge. 

Prepara- 25 th. The admiral of the fleet which arriv- 

tions for a . 

Short ed a lew days ago, hearing that 1 was to visit 
the Crimea, most courteously sent and offered me a 
passage with him to Savastopol, for which place he 
was to sail in a day or two. The worthy Greek, 
Mr. Eolli, was the means of my obtaining this 
pleasant mode of arriving at that isolated, yet in- 
teresting portion of this eastern world. During 
the morning I called on and bade adieu to the few 
kind friends met with here, and in the afternoon 
purchased some articles required for my journey, 
among which was a heavy fur cloak, most 
earnestly recommended by my friend who robbed 
the convent, and who knew the quality of the cold 
to be met with on the mountains. 

The evening was passed at tea with the pleasant 
family of Mr. Heaford. Mr. H. informed me that 
the export of grain from the Black Sea this year, 
would amount to the enormous quantity of sixty 
millions of bushels, — that the exports of Odessa 
were principally grain, tallow and wool ; — that 
good grapes and melons are raised in abundance 
near by — that some wine is made, though it is 
generally poor — that apples, pears, apricots grow 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 63 

here, but not so good or plentiful as the grapes and S * CTI0N IL 
melons — that there are no silk growers and no 
manufactories, — that the best root sugar is made in 
considerable quantities in Polish Russia, — that 
good wine is made in the Crimea, and the grape 
very much cultivated, induced by the good manage- 
ment of Prince Woronsoff, the genius of southern 
civilization, who has built an elegant palace there. 
Among the ten thousand improvements which the 
Prince introduced in this region, are the steamers 
on the Euxine, now plying from the Danube, along 
its whole Russian coast. 

26th. In company with our consul, I had an- j^me. 
other interview with General SofFonofF. He again 
assured me of the protection I should every where 
find, but shook his head at my asking something 
concerning the route by the Kouban, inhabit- 
ed by the Cossacks de la mer noire, and stated 
that the roads were bad, and that as I wanted to 
see the Azof, my better way would be through 
Taganroc. He then gave me a letter bearing the 
broad seal of his office, to the governor of Stavra- 
pol, and I took my leave. What he had said made 
me feel somewhat doubtful of the perfect security 
with which I should travel, for I had to pass along 
the very borders, if not through the midst of, prov- 
inces occupied by those almost wild hordes, who, 
like their ancient progenitors, drive their flocks 



64 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 



Section II. 



from plain to plain, live where they best can, and 
make the highway as well as the pasture, yield to 
them its transient produce. Without a companion, 
too, I was to traverse those vast steppes which 
stretch from the Azof to the Caspian, and south- 
ward to the Caucasus ; and had I not long before 
resolved that nothing should deter me from passing 
those famed mountains and descending into the 
beautiful vallies of Georgia, I should now have 
strong inducements to turn back to Constantinople 
and Athens, and spend my time amid the ruins of 
Greece. But travellers must expect discomforts, 
hardships and even dangers, and if they start with 
other thoughts, and wander out of the great high- 
way of voyagers, they will be sadly disappointed. 
Cherson. Cherson, of which Odessa is the principal town 
though not the capital, contains about twenty-six 
thousand square miles of territory. Much of it is 
a dry heath, yet the peculiar saline qualities of that 
toward the south, is well adapted to raising sheep 
and the mulberry tree, and though the country has 
been enriched by the former, little attention as yet 
has been paid to the latter ; however, it will not, 
nor will any other of its resources be long neg- 
lected. I intended to have visited the capital of 
this province, if only to have seen the grave of 
Howard, but I could obtain no suitable conveyance, 
till my going thither would have made me too late 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 65 

to join the fleet. It is celebrated for the magnifi- SECTI0N n - 
cent festivals held there on the meeting in 1787, of 
Catharine II., and Joseph, at which time they form- 
ed the alliance against the Porte. Here, also, was 
commenced the splendid monument to Potemkin, 
the favorite of Catharine, who appropriated one 
hundred thousand rubles for its erection. It was 
never completed, and when Catharine's son took 
the reins of government, he caused the body of his 
mother's talented but bloody paramour to be 
thrown into a filthy ditch, near the town, from 
which it was never recovered. Cherson is on the 
Dnieper^ about sixty miles from its mouth, and 
owes its importance — and it has had much as a 
place of business, for Greeks and Turks, and for 
building ships for the Black Sea, — to Potemkin. 
I could have gone and returned in three days, and 
shall always regret that I had not the time. 

Odessa, situated between the Dnieper and Dneis- 
ter, was founded by the intrepid Catharine after 
the accession of Bessarabia by the peace of Jassy, 
which I have referred to in my work on the 
Danube. Alexander, seeing its importance in a 
commercial point of view, did much toward carry- 
ing out the plans of Catharine, and appointed 
Richelieu, then an emigrant from France, its gov- 
ernor. This young Duke, attracted by the peculiar 

character of the Empress of all the Russias, entered 
4 



66 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

Section II 



into her service, and so distinguished himself in 
the war against the Turks, that he was immedi- 
ately made major-general. He returned to France, 
but remained only a short time and went again to 
Russia, where he seemed to find more congenial 
spirits, and in 1803 was appointed governor of 
Odessa. He greatly improved the city, which, to 
commemorate his worth and services, has since 
erected to him that bronze statue which now adorns 
the boulevards. 

Odessa can boast of many valuable institutions. 
She has twelve public schools, supported by gov- 
ernment, at which all children, rich and poor, can 
receive a fair education, — geography, grammar, 
arithmetic, and the like, being taught by able mas- 
ters. An institution of a higher order, called the 
gymnasium, prepares scholars for the college Rich- 
elieu. This last was founded in 1817, and re- 
ceives for its maintenance thirty thousand silver 
rubles annually. The term of study is three years. 
It has twenty professors who receive one thousand 
rubles each, and a president who receives two 
thousand annually. The number of scholars is 
now two hundred and forty. Here the rich pay the 
small sum of six silver rubles a year ; the poor pay 
nothing. There is also a botanical garden, where 
students remain five years, acquiring all that is 
valuable in that science to which the institution is 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 67 

devoted. The society of agriculture receives an- SECTI0y IL 
nually from government fifteen hundred rubles, 
which are paid in prizes and for exhibitions. The 
Society de la storia i de Vantiquite, receives also, an- 
nually, from the same source, fifteen hundred rubles, 
which are expended for medals and books, and in 
sending abroad scientific persons for the object of 
the society. The Biblioteca Publica, and the Museo 
de la Cita, founded by Prince WoronsofF, are also 
sustained by government. These last two are under 
the direction of Professor Mozekevits. The hos- 
pital of the city is also free to all, the poor paying 
nothing when they can bring a certificate from 
their parish, stating that they have not the means. 
This reminds me of a melancholy affair, the sequel 
of which is just related to me. 

While we were walking the other day under the 
arches in front of the gratings at the quarantine 
barrier, we met a young woman of very slender 
form, pale, but classic face, lit up by large blue 
eyes full of earnestness and trust. She seemed 
fitted by nature to bear no burdens, yet she had 
evidently suffered. Her hair was very neatly dress- 
ed beneath her blue velvet cocauchnick, and showed 
that much pains had been taken with it, but from 
her shoulders hung a poor old cloak, while an or- 
dinary gown and shoes that had long been in ser- 
vice, aided in concealing her scantily clad person. 
4* 



68 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 



Section II. 



In the folds of her outer garment she carried an 
infant, and though it was very small, it seemed too 
much for her strength. She was walking back- 
wards and forwards along the same platform with 
us, and watched the different gratings to see if any- 
one appeared there whom she knew, and then she 
would turn to the passers-by, and when she saw 
one who looked kindly on her, she stopped him to 
inquire if a certain vessel had not yet arrived, and 
if the officers would not soon be at the barrier ; 
but when she saw a man with a stern, calculating 
visage, she said nothing to him. She however ad- 
dressed my companion, and on being assured that 
she might soon expect to see the officers of the ves- 
sel, as it had arrived that morning, the happy gush- 
ings around her heart flooded her bright eyes. At 
my suggestion, he asked if she was married ; she 
replied with a smile that she was to be, as soon as 
the first officer, whom she was looking for, arrived ; 
and as she said this she seemed to fold more close- 
ly to her breast her little child, doubtless the 
pledge of their affections. We left her looking 
through the gratings. To-day, at the hospital, 
almost beyond the dreams of this world, lay that 
same delicate form, and the face was more pallid 
and more emaciated than before. On that morn- 
ing, when she was waiting to welcome all that was 
to her priceless in existence, she learned that he 






TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 69 

had fallen a victim to the cholera raging at Stam- ^ SECTI0IC n - 
boul. That deep fountain of affection which God 
has placed in our souls, pouring forth whither it 
will, watering ofttimes the germs of sinful plants, 
but, nevertheless, within its genial recipients, creat- 
ing the most refined and exalted of earthly beati- 
tude, was now welling up in her struggling bosom 
and running over into the vast, wide-spread sterility 
which surrounded it, and which was soon to absorb 
it and destroy it forever. I had read in the depth 
of those azure eyes that intensity of feeling she 
might never utter, and I can well imagine how 
such beings can die of desolateness of heart, for 
there are but few — such are life's duties and cares 
— who can understand, appreciate and have sym- 
pathy with them. Apropos to this — 

Mr. Heaford related to me the other evening the The 

Greek 

facts concerning the death of an acquaintance of Girl of 

Odessa. 

his, which recently took place. A young girl, a 
Greek by birth, though educated in Odessa, had by 
her great beauty won the universal admiration of 
the citizens. Among the number was a wealthy 
and titled Russian, somewhat older than the lady, 
and of a temperament little suited to hers. He, 
however, urged his suit, which her own parents 
much favored, and finally won her consent to an 
union. I will not follow her through all her strug- 
gles against the wild pleadings of a generous heart, 



70 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section ii. wec [d e( i in its every pulsation to a youth of her 
own country — that strife which for weary months 
she maintained between her filial obligations and 
her every other emotion and sentiment. She weded 
the Russian. Others have acted in the same way, 
with the idea or at least the sincere hope, that in- 
timacy will ripen into attachment, and that eventu- 
ally pleasure will result from the society thus sub- 
mitted to and encouraged. A few days after the 
marriage they drove out in their splendid carriage 
and passed down on to the quay, where my narrator 
happened to be, and so extraordinary was the 
beauty of the bride, that all the workmen of that 
region, amounting to several hundred, as he in- 
formed me, delayed their toil to gaze upon her. 
The admiration of the world, the sincere homage 
of thousands failed, however, to supply that void 
in her breast which only one could have filled, and 
to whom she was now forever lost. The hope which 
she had cherished now only mocked, and the vista 
of the life before her, became more dreary than 
the valley of death. She returned home and, as- 
cending to the terrace of her dwelling, gazed long 
toward her father-land and on the bright light 
which still lingered about the western horizon. 
She then descended to the garden and plunged her- 
self into a deep cistern, from which she was taken 
lifeless. 









TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 71 

Odessa has nine Greek churches, one Roman SECTIoy n - 
Catholic, one Protestant, one Armenian, and two 
Hebrew churches, which shows a spirit of toler- 
ance creditable to any people, and to any govern- 
ment. The export of grain from hence during the 
last nine months, has been twelve millions of bush- 
els. Odessa has about eighty thousand inhabitants, 
gathered from various nations. The Jews consti- 
tute a large and peculiar portion of them. The 
Greeks and Italians hold most of the business in 
their hands, while Moldavia, Wallachia, Russia, 
and France contribute their quota. 

While I was leaving the town to go on board _ .£ , 

b & Soldier's 

the vessel, the soldiers, with muffled drums and re- Funeral, 
versed arms were defiling through the streets in a 
solemn and imposing procession, bearing to his 
long sleep, from which alone the last trumpet of 
the Great Captain shall awaken him, the remains 
of a distinguished general of the Russian army. 
The body lay in a rich funeral car — a kind of tem- 
ple, and trimmed with velvet and gold — and was 
drawn by four splendid black horses. An officer 
in full uniform, but with head uncovered, rode on 
each corner of the car. Preceding this, four men 
carried a kind of bier, covered with black velvet, 
trimmed with silver lace and fringe, on which lay 
the sword, chapeau, and decorations of the deceas- 
ed. Behind it, came the horse without his rider, 



72 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

sbotiok n. an( j ^ e seeme ^ conscious of the sad errand on 
which he was moving. Between the bier and the 
car, walked several priests of the Greek church, 
noble, venerable, dignified-looking men. They 
were extremely tall, and their lofty caps seemed to 
add much to their height. Their robes were very 
long and of purple velvet and gold. Their hair 
hung gracefully about their shoulders, and their 
white beards lay upon their breasts, reaching almost 
to the girdle. There was a becoming gravity in 
their manner, pleasingly different from that of the 
Spanish priests whom I once saw amid ceremonies 
for the dead, laughing at each other's jokes in the 
house of God, when the daughter of a worthy citi- 
zen was to be buried. Following all these came 
the military with their banners, and accompanied 
by three full bands of music. This melancholy 
ceremony tinges my recollections of Odessa with 
sadness, for it was the last impressive scene I looked 
upon there. 
Costume The soldiers dress in a very coarse black cloth 
Soldiers, faced with red. The white cross on their breasts, 
formed by the belts which support their knapsack 
and sword, and the large brass eagle covering the 
whole front of their caps, all neat and bright as 
are their arms, give them a showy and handsome 
appearance ; but whenever I looked at one of the 
officers, I was reminded of a table bell, for their 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 73 

caps are of such a shape with a long brass knob Sectiow n 
rising out of the top, looking like a handle to be 
taken hold of, should one want to ring up the per- 
son beneath it. They wear no stuffing in the 
breasts of their coats, which makes them appear of 
rather indifferent forms, compared with those of 
almost every other country; for they are a class 
who generally know how to find in cotton that of 
which nature has been churlish. Here, too, they 
wear the cuffs of their sleeves so long that they 
cover the entire hand, and extend up almost to the 
elbow. This style is probably the fashion, and 
may look well to them, but it appears to me as 
though they had on coats for which they were 
never measured, and that they are extremely 
slovenly. 

There is also to be noticed here a fixed wall of Higher 
distinction between the higher and lower classes. Lower 
The former are much more harsh and austere asses * 
towards the latter than is common elsewhere, while 
the lower orders are more cringing to their supe- 
riors than seems becoming the character of men. 

On passing the gate of the pier my luggage was 
slightly examined, and on arriving at the boat- 
landing I was presented to the Admiral Caltafskoi, 
who received me very politely, and introduced me 
to one of his lieutenants who spoke English. We 
immediately descended to the boat, and in a few 



74 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

sectiom il moments we were on board the flag ship TraerarofF, 
or Trinity. Here the Admiral presented me to the 
captain, who spoke Italian, and who invited me to 
take tea with him in the evening. On my arrival, 
I was not at first favorably impressed, as there ap- 
peared too much confusion about the decks, but 
when the lieutenant told me they had just received 
on board nine hundred soldiers, I wondered that 
there was any order. These soldiers were only a 
small portion of the vast army of the South, which 
the Emperor Nicholas had called together at Eliza- 
bethgrad, for the purpose of reviewing them, and 
who were now returning to their stations. The 
fleet had come for the purpose of conveying them 
to the Crimea from which they started some few 
weeks since, The object of this review has created 
ten thousand conjectures — an attack on Constan- 
tinople, an invasion of Persia, a war with Austria, 
conquests in the East, and the like. An officer 
who was present, assures me of his belief in the 
intention of the Emperor soon to engage in a war 
somewhere, for, said he, the last address of the 
Czar to us was : " Soldiers, I am happy that you 
appear so well ; I expect to require your services 
before six months are ended ! " 
Tea- I must again remark that the Russians are great 

drinking, ° 

&c, on tea-drinkers. Soon after coming on board I was 
Ship- . , b 

board, invited below to take tea in the mess-room with the 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 75 

officers, whom I found in a social body enjoying Section il 
their three or four cups, generally smoking furious- 
ly at intervals, though some finished with the one 
before they began the other. The scene, at least, 
was one of contentment, and lively, for numerous 
servants were hurrying about, as though orders had 
been given to clear away for action. One was run- 
ning for fire, another with it, another for tobacco, 
and another to clean a pipe, for all smoked the 
long Turkish article, and no one the cigar. In 
about an hour I was in a room on deck, taking tea 
with the captain. The gun had been fired, and 
the flag long since hauled down, when I bade this 
agreeable officer good night, and retired to my own 
apartment. Fifteen hundred persons had gone to 
rest within hearing of my voice, yet not a sound 
was audible, save that of the regular step of the 
watch on the quarter deck. I could not help pon- 
dering on the seeming fiction in which I was in- 
volved, — that I was in a floating castle, where 
within the space of a few hundred feet were gath- 
ered together vast and fearful elements of destruc- 
tion, yet all around me was calm as thoughtfulness 
— that at the tap of a drum a host of human be- 
ings could be summoned before me ready for deeds 
of blood, and that the hollow, wooden walls about 
me could be made to send forth havoc and dread- 
ful desolation too terrible to be recorded. But the 



76 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

Section il idea of a civilian going to sleep with a thirty-two 
pounder sticking out of his window, seemed so 
ridiculous, that, after looking a while at the pon- 
derous mass of iron which was close to my berth, 
and getting my face into a broad grin, I went to 
sleep. 
The 27th. — I was awakened early this morning by 

A Cab" ial ' S ^ e ^ ea ^ °^ ^ e ( ^ rum an ^ the heavy march of 
soldiery along the deck. I had slept well, though 
my bed was as hard as boards could well make 
it ; and, thanks to my fur cloak, I had slept 
warmly. But the night had been cold, and, at 
dawn, both wind and weather betokened our no 
speedy departure. I went on the quarter about 
seven o'clock, and walked for a long time with the 
captain, who was having the top-gallant yards sent 
up, and the ship got ready for sea, in case the wind 
should be fair. At one moment not a man was to 
be seen aloft ; at the next, the yards, shrouds, tops, 
every part of the rigging seemed alive with them, 
and all engaged in some sudden duty. It was pleas- 
ing, also, to notice the facility with which conversa- 
tion was carried on by flags from one ship to an- 
other. Orders were transmitted from one vessel and 
responded to with an astonishing alacrity; and, 
finally, signal was given for the fleet to get under 
weigh at nine o'clock. Before that hour, however, 
the weather became uninviting, and the order was 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 77 

countermanded. At twelve, the Admiral sent to me SscTI0W "• 
an invitation to dine with him ; but, as he spoke 
nothing but Russian, I did not know how we should 
entertain each other. The captain, however, came 
to my relief, being invited to accompany me as 
my chaperon, and, at one o'clock, escorted me 
to the cabin of the admiral, to whose wife and 
daughter I was then presented. The two ladies 
spoke French, so I passed the time more socially 
than could have been expected ; but, for the nu- 
merous questions asked by the Admiral, I was ob- 
liged constantly to appeal to the captain. The 
elder of the ladies had a very fair, round face, ex- 
pressive of great amiability, while her form was 
short and inclined to en bon point. The daughter 
greatly resembled the mother, though she was more 
retiring in her manners. Mine host and his wife 
were extremely courteous, and seemed desirous of 
making my voyage with them agreeable. The ad- 
miral is a man of large frame, rather careless in his 
dress, but appears to have a good heart. During 
the dinner hour, a well-trained band "discoursed 
most eloquent music,' ' which to me was more agree- 
able than would have been the finest dish ever 
cooked in all the Russias. 

In coming from Italy, Spain, or the south of ?^^ ml1 
France, an American is as much struck with the 
retiring manners of the Russian ladies, as he is 



78 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 



Section II. 



with the difference in complexions ; and in a hun- 
dred ways, is reminded that he is not in either of 
the former countries, where latitude of conversation, 
entire freedom from restraint, lack of refinement, 
make them at strange variance with his own fair 
countrywomen, as well as those of Germany and 
Russia. The blonde is the most common style of 
beauty, I believe, met with in all northern latitudes, 
and when these exceptions occur at the south, they 
become extremely distinguished. For example, the 
far-famed Marchioness Balbi, of Genoa, the star of 
Liguria ; and the lovely Lady Walpole, who has 
adopted fair, genial Italy for her country. Both 
of these ladies were in society at Genoa, and hu- 
man beings could not require more perfect adora- 
tion than they received. This subject recalls to 
mind a married lady whom I met two successive 
days in Odessa, going to a dressmaker's, — Madame 
Huberts. I knew she was married, and to the man 
older than herself, whose arm she had, — by the 
kind of matter-of-course sort of air each bore in 
face and gait. But what attracted my attention 
was the brilliancy of the lady's complexion and 
expression, which the peach, the rose, carnation and 
the lily, the diamond and the raven's wing could 
not in their combined beauty rival. And this was 
extremely expensive, for she required the richest 
and best arranged dress possible, to have it not ap- 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 79 

pear inferior to, or detract from her natural charms. SECTIoy IL 
The husband was consequently daily victimised, 
doubtless, at the altar of Madame — the French 
dressmaker. 

The acquaintance of a Georgian gentleman has Colonel 

Carganoff 

been made on ship-board — Colonel Carganoff. 
With his three sons, he is now returning to his 
home and his wife, whom he has not seen for ten 
years. The cause of his long absence, shows the 
severe but seeming mild and political measures 
which the Czar often adopts to regulate the dis- 
cordant elements of his vast empire. Colonel Car- 
ganoff, though a distinguished officer of the Rus- 
sian service, wearing many decorations, — one splen- 
did one, given him for his spirited defence of 
Ahalzic, lived with his family in his native valley. 
His countrymen, tired of Russian control, and as- 
piring to be again ruled by their own kings, com- 
menced a revolution, which, it was generally believ- 
ed, he knew too much about, while he felt strong 
sympathy in its success. The Emperor, hearing this, 
— and the Emperor knows through the watchfulness 
of his officers, strictly watched, almost the very 
thoughts of every prominent man in his empire, — 
invited him to come to St. Petersburgh. He there 
made him governor of a small neighboring town, 
and, his many requests to be permitted to return 



80 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section ii. nome? the Czar always found sufficient excuses for 
denying, till ten years had passed away. 
V ^ r At four o'clock, signals were again made to get 
under weigh, and I could not but again admire the 
almost instantaneous reply they met with. A signal 
would hardly reach the mizen top before it would 
be responded to by the fleet. This conversation 
continued for some time ; then, one after another 
weighed anchor and filed off for sea. As we were 
to windward, we were the last to brace our yards to 
the breeze : but, when we did do so, we were soon 
with the rest, breasting the heavy waves under a 
full press of canvas. When night came, it was 
very dark, and the management of the ship, as the 
captain confessed, was very awkward ; but he ex- 
plained it by telling the plain truth, — that the 
sailors were in actual service at sea only a few 
weeks during the whole year, and, consequently, 
could know but very little concerning their real 
studies — that the skill of managing sails, reefing 
in bad weather, knowing what to do, as if by in- 
stinct, when the howlings of a storm drown the 
sounds of all orders, could only be acquired by long 
practice ; and the old sailor knows as well what to 
do in successive order, when one command is given, 
as though he had the boatswain whistling in his 
very ears. He knows when a sail is to be reefed, 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 81 

that the tacks and sheets are to be let go, the reef- SECTIoy n - 
ing tackle hauled up, and the quickest and best man 
is he who first reaches the weather yard-arm. He 
knows in the darkest night exactly where to put his 
hand for the clew-lines, the halyards, the braces, — 
which are to be let go, and which secured ; and all 
this knowledge is so necessary, that the finest fleet 
in the world would be almost useless without it. 

The Russian navy, although already imposing, Russian 

. Navy. 

is daily augmenting its force. Its ships are hand- 
some, of good models, and are managed entirely on 
the English system in tactics, etiquette and discip- 
line. In fact, one of the admirals of this sea has 
served under the flag of England, and knows well 
the regulations and power of her navy ; and is 
well aware that though his country's fleet might 
out-number all others, it will be long before it can 
be made as effective as England's or that of the 
United States, for want of that great commercial 
marine, their ever-ready resource. The fleet of the 
Euxine consists of — Ships of the Line, 14, two of 
120 guns, the others of 84 ; Frigates, mounting 60 
guns, 8 ; Corvettes, mounting 20 guns, 7 ; Brigs, 
mounting 11 to 20 guns, 14; Schooners, 6; Cut- 
ters, 10 ; Steamers, 8 ; Tenders, 30. 

At six o'clock, I went below and took tea, and, at Tea- 
nine, a supper of meats and soup. The officers' & c ., on' 
messroom is a very social place. At tea, a large board. 



82 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

Section il plate of butter and another of bread, a few cups 
and saucers, tea and waterpot are placed on the 
table, but no plates, and only one knife. Each one 
spreads his piece of bread and returns the knife, 
helps himself to tea, takes the sugar with his fin- 
gers, passes his spoon to his neighbor, who is wash- 
ing out another neighbor's cup to use for himself, 
and either sits at the table or goes to the divan and 
talks, tea in hand, and smokes as he talks and 
drinks. There is a quiet and easy manner with all, 
and each one shows that deference to the others, 
, which is a mark of good breeding, and no one takes 
the liberty to cover his head while he is in this 
room. But, notwithstanding their gentlemanly 
manners, I could not think that they were at all 
an intellectual body ; for no one ever presumed to 
take a book; in fact, I could not see one on board. 
At dinner, the highest officer sits at the head of the 
table, and is served first. The dish is then passed 
to each one in succession. Lively conversation soon 
commences, but no smoking, and when the head 
rises, all retire. It is then common and polite to 
bow to, or shake hands with, those you respect and 
love most, and those to whom you would show the 
most deference. The sons of Colonel Carganoff 
went to him and kissed his hand. The signification 
of this ceremony I do not understand, but I believe 
it is accompanied with a wish that your dinner may 






TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 8e3 

do you much good. Very few of those officers Secti °* il 
spoke anything except Kussian. They paid but 
little attention to dress, and passed all their time, 
when off duty, in smoking and talking. 

28th. Morning extremely unpleasant, but all Strangers 

* /• i /i • • i ta« in at Dinner. 

the vessels of the fleet in sight. During the fore- 
noon received an invitation from the admiral to 
dine with him. At the appointed hour, in com- 
pany with the captain, I went to the admiral's 
room, where I found company I had not seen be- 
fore — a priest of the Greek church, and his wife — 
to whom I was now introduced. The latter was 
about eighteen years of age, pretty, delicate, and 
diffident, evidently not accustomed to much society, 
and wanting in intellectual expression. In form, 
however, she was symmetrical, and dressed in 
good taste. The husband was also quite young, 
and wore all his beard and hair, the latter of chest- 
nut color, and extremely fine, hanging down his 
back and over his breast half way to his waist. 
He was vested in a light blue figured satin gown, 
made high and tight about his neck, buttoned 
closely around his corpulent body and reaching to 
his feet. The sleeves were large bishop ones, and 
lined with plain blue cotton ; under these, and fitting 
smoothly to the arm, were others of blue satin. He 
looked like a fat, blowsy woman, in a rich morning 

gown, waiting her toilette. He had none of that 
5* 



84 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 



Section II. 



mock sanctity which often accompanies his profes- 
sion, but joked with the officers about his costume 
and his head, which was enormously large, tried his 
hat on to others, and smoked his pipe continually 
when he was not talking. 

At table I was seated beside the admiral's lady. 
She asked many questions concerning my voyage, 
my family, and desired to know if I had been pro- 
vided with every comfort in my state-room. She 
manifested even a motherly solicitude for my hap- 
piness, and her kindness as well as that of her hus- 
band has attached me much to them. After din- 
ner, — the Russians do not sit at table after the 
meal is finished, — the lady, with her daughter 
on her arm, apologized for speaking no better 
French and no English, and took her leave, retiring 
Music t° her private apartments. On returning to the 
deck, the band which had been playing some of 
Verdi's beautiful pieces, was dismissed, and a vocal 
cfompany of soldiers then ordered up. They ar- 
ranged themselves in two parallel lines, having a 
man at one end who played an old clarionet, and 
one at the other, who was grand director — all 
looking as serious as though they were to be shot. 
They commenced one of the national airs of the 
Russian peasantry. The time was at first slow and 
drawling, but it improved in force and character, 
till about the middle of a stanza, when one joined 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 85 

in with a tamborine, followed soon after by another, Section il 
the most withy, supple person I ever saw. He car- 
ried in each hand a wooden cup to which was at- 
tached a straight stick about a foot long, ornament- 
ed with ribbons and bells. With these he beat 
as with castanets to the music, which, as it increas- 
ed in vivacity and earnestness, seemed to have the 
effect of animating every fibre of his frame. He 
threw himself into all kinds of attitudes, and every 
joint and muscle partook apparently of his joy and 
kept time, in the strange hitches and twistings, 
with the song. At one moment he was snapping 
his sparkling eyes and showing his fine teeth, as if 
in perfect ecstacy ; then he was sitting on the deck, 
from which he drew himself up with a kind of su- 
pernatural energy, which the music had imparted to 
him. Then he was turning a saumersault one way 
and then back again, and all in such perfect har- 
mony and grace, that I could scarcely believe one 
could express so much in face and body, with- 
out feeling the full native force of tones by which 
Calliope's son drew rocks and trees after him. This 
dance appeared to be one of the kind common to 
nearly all people in a rude state, who give expres- 
sion to their feelings by motions of the body. I have 
seen it in our Indians and negroes, in the Africans, 
and Asiatics, and I once saw a child fall insensible 
from exhaustion, by attempting in this way to ex- 



86 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section ii. p ress h er g rea t mental joy. Various other pieces 
were sung, and left a pleasing impression on my 
mind, yet rather from their oddity than beauty. 

Harbor of 29th. At twelve o'clock last night we had a 

Savasto- ^ 

pol. gale from the northward, and the sails were close- 
reefed, but this morning the sun rose clear and fair, 
and all the day has been warm and pleasant. At 
about ten, the fleet drew together, as the mountains 
of the Crimea arose in the distance, and the land- 
marks of the coast began to be discernible. As 
we approached the entrance to the harbor of Sava- 
stopol, our place of destination, the vessels swung 
into line and followed each other in such perfect 
order, that a ball shot along their sides could have 
hardly scathed one without touching the whole. In 
this manner we entered the port, and within a few 
moments of each other, all came to anchor. The 
scene from the shore must have been beautifully 
grand. Six large ships of war with all sails set, 
sweeping into one of the safest and finest harbors 
in the world is a sight not often witnessed, and one 
I think that would be long remembered. 

The approach to Savastopol is not imposing. 
The high mountain called the tent, is a prominent 
and important object of observation to the mariner, 
though it is very distant from the shore. The 
land in the immediate neighborhood of the port is 
not of great elevation, though irregular. On a 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 87 

point stretching out several miles to the westward, SECTI0y u - 
is a light-house which can be seen at a considerable 
distance. At the mouth of the port, as well as on 
its two sides, and on the southern angle of the in- 
ner harbor, there are strong commanding fortresses, 
and each elevation has mounted on it a long range 
of cannon, looking as ready to be touched off, as 
one could desire. From the narrow, quiet bay, 
where we all came to anchor, — the seventy-fours 
clustering around the one hundred and twenty gun- 
ship like children around a cradle — another, still 
more secure, opens at right angles, and though it 
appears like a contracted channel, is long, deep, 
and perfectly sheltered, and holds at the present 
time many vessels of the largest class out of ser- 
vice, and many having everything on board ready 
for sea, except provisions and water. 

The admiral extended to me to-day his usual Proposed 
courtesy, and at his table was my pleasant Georgian 
acquaintance, with his sons. The colonel has 
urged me strongly to accompany him to his home, 
taking the circle of the Black Sea, first crossing by 
land the Crimea, and then running along in the 
government steamer the entire coast of Circassia, 
touching at all the different fortresses on our way. 
He states, also, that I shall be liable to encounter 
bad subjects on my interior route, besides finding 
the steppes monotonous and devoid of interest, and 



88 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section ii. j^ a i mos t persuaded me to be his companion to 
the capital of Georgia and New Russia. After din- 
ner, we all went on the upper deck, from which the 
admiral's lady pointed out to me, as we approached 
the harbor, the ruined walls and temples of the an- 
cient city of Chersonesa, which lay on our right. 

After we had anchored, the Captain Nukotich, 
usually a very plainly dressed man, in full uniform, 
and with no less than six different decorations of 
honor on his breast, came to me and offered a let- 
ter of introduction to a friend of his on shore, a 
Captain Matoosky,* who, he said, would be ex- 
tremely gratified if I would take up my quarters at 
his house; — being a bachelor, and living alone, he 
would find pleasure in showing to me all that was 
interesting in the region of Savastopol. 

Having no acquaintances here, I readily and 
gratefully accepted his letter. He then ordered a 
boat, and provided an officer to accompany and 
take me to the house of his friend. The admiral 
came and bade me adieu by a warm pressure 
of the hand, and I turned away from the ship with 
feelings of sadness and regret ; for, although a 
stranger, not knowing a word of the language of 
the people I was among, and known to them only 
by casualty, I had received the most frank hos- 

* These Russian names are written usually as they are pronounced, 
and scarcely approach the spelling in the Russian language. 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 89 

pitality and kind attentions, which the truly gener- SECTI0?r n 
ous only know how to bestow, and these were con- 
tinued to the last. 

I had heard much of Russian bears and Musco- 
vite boors, and had almost expected to see a Cossack 
head mounted on every woman's shoulder; but 
what must be the impression left by my first inter- 
course with this people. The admiral's lady, with 
exquisite blandness of manners, had manifested 
those tender sympathies which become a noble- 
hearted woman. Every officer merited an acknowl- 
edgment for well-timed civility and urbanity ; and 
as it is my desire to do justice to all independent 
of any local prejudices, I trust that I shall ever be 
as ready to portray the good I see, as follow in the 
beaten track of descrying all habits, laws, customs, 
religions, differing from our own. 






SECTION III. 



Section III. 



At two o'clock, I stepped on the shores of the 
The Crimea, my soul thrilling with new delights, for 

Crimea. J ° 

here, too, a louvre of historical and fabled pictures 
arose before me, stretching away eastward and 
southward, till lost in primeval gloom. I did not 
feel that it was a landing in a lovely garden of Rus- 
sia, as it had been described to me, for here bright 
and delicate flowers bloom all the months of her 
very winter. The impression pervaded me that it 
was a land connected intimately with that chain of 
associations which leads, link by link, to the origin 
of nations, of people, of the human race. I was 
breathing the air of the Tauride, of the Chersonese, 
the ruins of whose homes were near me. I was in 
a land that, more than fifty times, had arisen from 
the desolation which as many different nations had 
spread over it. Her hill tops had been crowned 
with temples, and her sacred groves ornamented 
with speaking statues. Here kings had reigned 
and been dethroned ; and, what once held a happy 
and flourishing people, was made barren by rude 
and savage hordes, whose descendants still dwell 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 91 

here and keep it a waste. The ancient gulf of SECTI(m m - 
Ctenis is not far from us, nor Cape Parthenium, the 
land we first made, where Iphigenia was on the 
point of immolating her brother.* 

I landed at a new and handsome portico, sup- 
ported by columns, passed into a large square, then 
into a broad street, having on both sides small but 
neat, plastered stone dwellings; and, after ascending 
it for about half a mile, came to the house of Cap- 
tain Matoosky. The captain received me politely, 
and, as he spoke English and possessed a vast fund 
of varied information, my time passed away most 
rapidly with him. The tea-hour came, evening and 
bed-time, and he was yet entertaining me with his 
stories. Speaking of the various people by whom 
he was surrounded, he said, there were in Savasto- 
pol some Abyssinians, who had correspondence with 
their own people in their native country, — that 
still more of them resided in Backsarai,f which is 
their burial place, — all of their nation who die any 
where in this region, being carried there to be in- 
terred, — that their religion partakes much of the 
Jewish system, though they do not use the Talmud ; 
and that they are very neat, strictly truthful, and 
an honest people, permitting, however, polygamy. 
The real Jews are not allowed to reside here, and 

* See Appendix, B. 

t Spelled Bachtschi-sarai, (a palace in a garden.) 



92 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section in. w h en ^ e u k a se was published to expel them, they 
went to all the villages except one. " That one," 
said the Captain, "is inhabited by Greeks, who, be- 
ing known to be even too cunning and subtle for 
the very Jews themselves, were avoided, and not a 
single one of the Hebrew race, when driven from 
Savastopol, went there to reside, though it is a 
lovely place." The Captain promises to take me 
there before I leave him. 

Backsarai At Backsarai, many interesting reliques have been 
discovered, under the direction of an antiquarian — 
an enthusiastic priest — who is allowed by govern- 
ment a certain sum annually to carry on his pro- 
ductive explorations. Backsarai was considered 
once a very beautiful town; and possesses an in- 
terest as the residence of the Khans of Tartary, — 
and as having a special privilege granted to it by 
Catharine the Second, which gave to the Tartars 
only a right to dwell in it. It had, too, one of the 
most magnificent seraglios of the East, with its 
fountains and gardens, now deserted ; a romantic 
valley, hemmed in by cliffs, crowned in one place 
by a convent, and, in another, by an almost inac- 
cessible fortress, the origin of which is not known. 
A double charm invests the spot — reality and 
mystery. 

The Tartars, as the Captain informed me, are a 
very stupid and indolent race. All they care for is 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 93 

to have a little tobacco to smoke. The Greeks are SlCTI(m ni - 
satisfied, when they make enough sour wine to 
drink ; and the Jews, in making a little money any 
way they can. The Circassians never fight openly 
and fairly. They would go without food and sleep 
for days, if they could entrap and rob and kill you 
without danger to themselves. In travelling 
through their country, he further stated, if one meet 
a man on the road without boots on, and in Circas- 
sian costume — (the Cossacks having this distinc- 
tive mark, though otherwise dressing like the Circas- 
sians), — it is necessary to show him that you are 
well armed and on your guard, otherwise he will be 
sure not to let you pass safely. Probably, he will 
first shoot your horse, and then your own dear self, 
if necessary, and help himself to all you possess. 
These Circassians are not, however, to be found so 
frequently on the plains as formerly, having retired 
to the mountains. About a year ago, they made 
some very bold and well directed attacks upon the 
Russian fortresses, and maintained themselves with 
so much energy, and pursued their success with so 
much skill, that it was immediately conjectured that 
that they had some bold and experienced leader, 
who had seen service in other fields. At last, the 
Russians repulsed a large body of the enemy, and 
pursued them in a long and bloody struggle to their 
fastnesses. On their way, they found the mutilat- 



94 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section hi. e( j k dy f a Polish officer, who proved to be one 
of the most distinguished of his nation. He had 
been sent into Circassia by a club in Constantinople, 
composed of French, Poles and Turks, who, in va- 
rious ways, assisted these mountaineers against the 
Russians — sometimes by sending able leaders ; and 
at other times, arms and ammunition. This officer, 
who had been thus found dead, had been shot in 
the hack of the neck, which, with other signs, and 
evidences afterwards adduced, proved that he was 
killed by the very ones he was trying to serve, and 
who, because of his failure in this one instance, 
treacherously assassinated him. 
; An Englishman by the name of Bell, attempted, 
several years ago, to aid them, but both he and his 
vessel were captured. The latter was retained, 
but he was released. The kindness of the Rus- 
sians towards him, however, did not prevent his 
again attempting the destruction of their hopes 
in the south, and he stole back among the 
Circassians, assuring them that within a year the 
English would send a fleet to assist them. This 
story he continued till the time specified was finish- 
ed, when, his promises not being fulfilled, he was 
obliged to escape for his life, which he effected with 
the greatest difficulty. 

There are among this people only two classes — 
the princes and the slaves — the one very rich, 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 95 

the other miserably poor and abject. It is almost SECTIOtf m 
impossible, however, to go now where they reside, 
on account of the war. 

Prince Woronsoff has recently taken one of 
their strongest fortresses, held by three thousand 
Circassians, They had shut themselves within it, 
and had but one egress, which was strongly guard- 
ed. The stream of water that supplied them was 
turned from its course, and the soldiers were left 
without any. The next night they attempted the 
pass, and left two thousand of their men dead in 
the valley. With such information, the Captain 
entertained me till a late hour. 

30th. Early this morning, with Captain Ma- Biblioteca 
toosky, I visited the Biblioteca. It has now about 
ten thousand volumes, all richly bound and pre- 
served in handsome mahogany cases. It is sup- 
ported by the officers of the navy of the Euxine, 
who contribute to it annually, two and a half per 
centum of their pay. An elegant building for it, is 
now being erected, on the highest and most com- 
manding point in the city, and is one of the pleas- 
ing objects which arrest the attention on entering 
the harbor. At this Biblioteca, I saw for the first 
time, Dubois' great and most valuable work on 
Circassia and the Crimea. Here, also, are to be 
seen, a model of an American vessel, and models 
of the navy of the Black Sea. After spending 



96 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section in. some time amid its curiosities, the Captain procured 
for me a drosky, to take me to Chersonesa,* and 
as I wished to remain there a good part of the day, 
he could not accompany me ; he, however gave in- 
structions to the driver about the route, &c., and 
away I started. In and out of the town, I ascended 
gentle declivities, and crossed pleasant valleys, and 
then stopped at a sunny spot dedicated to the re- 
pose of the dead. Here was a neat little church, 
with a spire at one end, and a dome at the other, 
both painted a delicate green. It was surrounded 
by graves and green trees, and at one end was a 
small garden. As I stopped a moment to look at 
it, the priest, who was my fellow voyager, unex- 
pectedly came from the door to welcome me in, for 
he resided there. I told him, hcwever, that I was 
going to the ruins of Cherson, so he bade me God 
speed. Passing here, we ascended another range 
of high land, and descended again on its opposite 
side, having on the right the buildings of the quar- 
antine station, — then reached the pleasant eleva- 
tion, commanding a view of the sea on one hand, 
and of far-stretching plains on the other, where 
stood ancient Cherson. On either side of it the 
sea makes a gentle winding, forming pleasant little 
nooks for boats, and a secure retreat for small ves- 
sels. The wall which surrounded the town in sev- 

* Greek, signifying peninsula. 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 97 

eral places, is standing firm, defying time and his SECTI0N m 
invisible agents. Its whole course is distinctly 
marked by ruins. Near the centre was a well or 
cave, now nearly filled up. About an eighth of a 
mile from this is a mound, I should think about 
three hundred yards long, and thirty or forty feet 
high. Through this two large excavations have 
lately been made to discover its contents, and there 
was found thus deeply buried, a massive earthen 
jar, which, doubtless contained the ashes of the 
person for whom the great structure had been 
made, and probably ornaments belonging to him or 
her, (as have been found in other places,) but I 
could not learn what they were. Many coins are 
still found here, but I was unsuccessful in my 
search after them. The entire space within the 
walls is covered with loose stones, which formed 
the edifices that adorned the place, and doubtless 
for many a year had echoed to the voice of merri- 
ment and the ring of youthful gaiety; but from 
the immense quantity of earthenware found here, 
also, one would suppose their chief amusement had 
been in the manufacturing and smashing earthen 
pots. A Tartar huntsman, who had come in from 
the plain with his gun and dog, discovered me 
among the ruins, and supposing that I was in 
search of hidden treasures, or that I was crazy, 

sat down and watched me for an hour. The tall, 
6 



98 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section in. j an ^ f orm f m y d r i V er, too, I could see occasion- 
ally on some elevated part of the distant wall, as 
he looked anxiously after me, and when satisfied 
that I was still alive, went back to attend his 
horses. 

On my return to the house, I found the captain 
had been long awaiting my coming to dinner, and 
that some fine wild-fowl, by my delay, had been 
overcooked, &c., and that my host was sorry for it 
all, though to me, having an excellent appetite, 
every thing was good. Among other luxuries, he 
had a bottle of wine of the Crimea, seven years 
old, which, though tasting much like the claret, 
was much richer, had more body to it, and was 
considerably stronger. It cost him forty copeks 
(about thirty-five cents) the bottle, and consequent- 
ly could not be exported profitably. 

After dinner, the captain ordered his man-of- 
war boat, and we crossed the inner harbor to ex- 
amine the magnificent docks which have been many 
years in the course of erection by a Mr. Upton, a 
distinguished English engineer. From the long 
time he has been at work, and from the number of 
hands employed, one would have supposed he could 
have completed anything, but when the spot where 
he is now laying the finest masonry work in the 
world is seen, and it is to be remembered that an 
immense hill once stood, where now five or six 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 99 

large vessels of war at one time can be laid up in SECTI0N m - 
dry dock, the might of man seems almost incredible. 

From here we ascended, by one hundred steps, 
the opposite cliff, on which is another neat little 
village, chiefly composed of dwellings for the work- 
men and sailors. We passed through this, and 
descended into the valley, which- is filled with trees, 
and is enjoyed during the summer season by the 
youthful of both sexes, who come down in their 
boats and visit its shady walks. 

Bordering on the harbor at the entrance to this, Aqueduct 
an aqueduct supported on lofty arches, introduces 
a large body of pure water into the town, over a 
distance of twelve miles. To this point the cap- 
tain had ordered his boat, which we now took, to 
make an excursion to the grottos, and ruins of In- 
kerman. With a dozen well-trained oarsmen, we 
swept up the deep and secure harbor — seemingly 
a broad canal — for five miles, passing in our way 
several country seats, hemmed in, generally, with 
high, chalk cliffs. When at the head of the bay, 
we entered a little stream lined with reeds and rank 
grass, and rowing up for about a quarter of an 
hour, landed under the shadow of a neighbor 1 - 
ing cliff. This we skirted for about a hundred 
yards, when turning a sharp angle around a jut- 
ting headland, we saw the open side of a large of 

Irikerman 

cavern, high up in the face of the rock, which 
6* 



100 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

Seotiox iil showed, by the regularity of its arches, that it was 
the work of human hands. Under it, small square 
holes had been pierced at regular distances, which 
were probably for the support of a balcony. We 
continued along to its further side, projecting ir- 
regularly from the great natural wall of the valley, 
and entered a doorway cut in the solid stone. We 
then ascended about forty steps, having an occa- 
sional window on the right to admit light and air, 
and now and then small dark rooms on the left, 
which looked like dens for thieves. From this we 
passed into a long gallery and through it, till 
finally it opened into a church, — the cavern we 
had seen from below. It was about thirty feet by 
twenty, handsomely arched over head in the Gothic 
style, having niches in several places, and a little 
chapel adjoining, where there was formerly, the 
captain said, an inscription in Greek. Other rooms 
of different sizes were near, but for what purpose 
they were made is not known, probably for some of 
those gloomy ascetics and devout recluses who, for 
virtue, religion, or credit's sake, made their homes 
in caverns, and shut themselves up in cloisters and 
served neither God nor man. 

From this rock extended a wall — the line of 
which is yet visible — across the beautiful glen, up 
w r hich, from a window in the long gallery leading 
to the church, is one of the most picturesque views 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 101 

imaginable. On the opposite side, the wall joined SECTIoy m 
another rock still more lofty, bold and interesting, 
having to its very top — apparently three hnndred 
feet high — been so cut away as to overhang its 
base, and thus render any ascent to it impossible ; 
while its summit is crowned by a fortress. For 
the inhabitants above, however, and those who 
dwelt in the excavated rooms, of which the vast 
rock was full, there was a secret and very narrow 
stairway within. This is now somewhat dangerous 
of ascent on account of its exterior wall having in 
some places been broken away; yet this very de- 
fect can scarcely be regretted, as it gives the vis- 
itor an occasional opportunity, as he scrambles up 
the dark passage, to look out upon the lovely 
meadow below. When about half way up, we ar- 
rived at another little chapel, which has been so 
excavated as to leave several columns on each side 
with their respective aisles. From one of these we 
ascended another narrow and steep stairway which 
presently was open over head, and after tediously 
climbing up a hundred steps we came out on the 
top of the rock and within the old castle of Inker- 
man. The walls, which here enclose two acres of 
ground, perhaps, are not so much destroyed as 
those of Cherson, and one large, massive, round 
tower thirty or forty feet high is still very imposing, 
as well as inaccessible. To approach the edge of 



102 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section in. ^ s i^le table-land and look from its giddy height 
is frightful indeed, and the captain begged of me 
to retreat from the position I had taken, and which 
commanded a view said to be one of the most ro- 
mantic defiles in the Crimea. Outside of the wall, 
near the tower, which it protected, is a deep foss. 
In one side of this, many small but neat little 
rooms have been cut, and now shelter the shepherd 
and his flock. In such a spot as this, even though 
one sees about him the evidences of the fact, he is 
scarcely prepared to contemplate such a state of so- 
ciety as must have existed when people fled to these 
caverns and inhospitable rocks for safety, and made 
in them their homes. 

Origin of The origin of the caverns of Inkerman is not 

the 

Caverns, known, though they are supposed generally to have 
been made in the early ages of Christianity by a 
colony of Arians, who fled from persecution, forti- 
fied and maintained themselves for a long time in 
this lovely vale, secure in their strong position, and 
happy in their new religion. But it would natu- 
rally be asked why they did not construct dwellings 
which would have cost less labor. The captain 
gave me a reply. He said that on their arrival at 
Chersonesa they applied for permission to settle 
there. The government disliking them, and detest- 
ing their creed, and not wishing them to reside in 
their midst told them they might live in the rocks 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 103 

of Inkerman, intending it as equivalent to saying Section m - 
there were no homes for them here or there. The 
Arians, however, took them at their word, and lit- 
erally lived in the rocks of Inkerman, — excavat- 
ing them into durable dwellings, chapels, monaste- 
ries, corridors, causing their once forbidding facades 
— when the various caverns, which were made 
sometimes one above the other, were illuminated at 
night — to appear like the front of some vast and 
gay palace. 

When about to retrace our steps, we saw that 
there were down in the valley, a large flock of 
goats returning from the hills to their home, ac- 
companied by a Tartar shepherd and two huge 
dogs. The captain desisted in his intention, as he 
was afraid to descend, assuring me that the dogs 
were so trained, that they would immediately at- 
tack a person not in the Tartar costume, so we 
waited till they had passed into the plain. Then 
w r e went down by a circuitous way, took another 
path across the meadow, and soon reached our boat. 
With the steady pull of the man-of-war's men, we 
went rapidly through the little river, and when we 
again entered the main channel, the sun was fast 
going down behind the lofty hills on our left, which 
now cast half across the bay their deep shadows, 
through which was seen the long silvery line that 
followed the fishermen's boat up stream. Over 



104 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section in. ^ e ther half of the placid water came a rich, pur- 
ple light from the glowing clouds of the West; 
and as we glided along its motionless surface 
towards the distant city, one fine edifice after anoth- 
er arose above the outline of her hills, then there 
appeared at their base the jutting walls of their 
proud batteries, while between us and them, as still 
as sleep, lay a powerful fleet, of which any nation 
might be proud. The scene was one of quiet and 
surpassing loveliness. It was quite dark when we 
landed, and when I had arrived at home and taken 
tea I was weary enough to rest. 

Russian 31st. The morning has been devoted to writing 

Morals. . ,... ^ . i i a •» 

my journal and visiting my (jeorgian colonel. Al- 
ter dinner I walked down the harbor, where at the 
landing, a band of music was playing, and ladies 
and gentlemen were promenading. I met there the 
two sons of Colonel CarganofF, midshipmen in the 
navy, one of whom had long been on this station 
and knew the inhabitants well. He pointed out to 
me several of those the most distingues, and stated 
that all those pretty ones present were Greeks. 
Their dress and manners were quite coquettish, and 
they would generally be called sweet-looking, but 
there was more reserve towards them on the part of 
the gentlemen than I think they deserved. The 
young officer, however, disgusted me by his further 
remarks, which showed a strange want of delicacy, 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 105 

and appreciation of female affection, by betraying Section m 
the confidence that had been reposed in him by 

one Madame Elizabeth , a Russian lady, wife 

of a lieutenant in the army. He spoke of her 
as being extremely beautiful and devoted to him, 
yet showed such a lack of understanding hi re- 
gard to the delicacy of a woman's feelings, that I 
was incredulous on the latter point. The example, 
however, of the former Russian empress and ladies 
high in place has doubtless ha4 much effect in 
forming throughout the empire the present liberal 
ideas in relation to a proper standard of morals ; 
and I will not undertake to censure them for it, 
since it is countenanced by the greater portion of 
the human race, and by many not inferior to my 
own people in the practice of all the other christian 
virtues. 

Twilight w T as gathering along the water and in 
valleys about us, when the music ceased, and we 
turned toward home. On our way, we saw several 
Russian ladies exercising on horseback, and the ad- 
miral and his lady and daughter passed us in their 
English carriage. 

November 1st. Early this morning, sent for Balaclava, 
a drosky to take me to Balaclava, one of the most 
interesting spots in the Crimea, and recommended 
to all who may visit this region. The captain was 
engaged, and could not accompany me, but gave 



106 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section iii. foe driver directions where to take me ; and, on 
arrival, to procure some one to show me the place 
and its ancient fortresses. The day was exceedingly 
lovely, the horses sound and fleet, and in a few mo- 
ments we had left the town and were coursing over 
a vast, undulating field, without enclosures, but 
covered with a sufficient number of stones to have 
made the luxury and curiosity of such a thing al- 
most a burden on the plains of Hindostan. On 

Gypsies. our wa y here, we#had passed a small band of gyp- 
sies, among whom, and for a rarity, were a very 
pretty boy and girl. The former, possessing fea- 
tures for a sculptor, was ragged and dirty ; — but 
the latter, though she could not boast of clean- 
liness, having on a crimson jacket, fitting closely 
her very small but exquisite form, and wearing 
many ornaments on her neck and breast, would 
have attracted attention anywhere. Her features, 
too, were regular, and there was a vivacity in the 
expression of her dark eyes, that would make her 
eventually a ruling spirit in the arts of her craft. 
She was one of Nature's aristocrats, — if we may 
believe with the great Lamartine that Nature has 
her aristocracy. Her feet and hands were small ; 
she was graceful in every motion of her body, in 
the carriage of her head and gesture, and in the at- 
titude she assumed as she leaned against a rude 
fence, as I stopped to give one of her troupe a few 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 107 

pennies. For several miles, there was little to at- Section nL 
tract attention. Occasionally, a one-story house 
was seen, but having apparently no resources for 
maintaining its inhabitants. Sometimes, a solitary 
cow lifted her head suddenly and returned it as 
quickly to the short grass she was grazing, as if 
loth to lose the time necessary to gain a subsistence 
from the limited crop about her. The wolfish look- 
ing shepherd dog several times crossed my path, and 
always stopped to look back when he reached the 
last elevation that commanded a view of the plain, 
and then was lost to sight. The whole, though in 
close proximity to a large town, showed a degree of 

neglect and barrenness quite surprising. Approach- Agricul- 
ture, 
mg the southern shore, however, we descended into 

a lovely valley, where the soil was black, clean and 
rich, and an occasional evidence of some effort being 
made to cultivate it. But to show the peculiar na- 
ture of the industrial habits of the people, (I was 
now drawing near to the Greek village,) I must 
state, that, in the first small vegetable garden I saw, 
there were eleven men, more or less busy ; and, on 
another narrow strip of land, for which, I am sure, 
a New England farmer would have derived no as- 
sistance to have made it produce in abundance, 
there were actually twenty-one men, at least pre- 
tending to be occupied. Beyond these fertile fields, 
there was a range of pleasant hills, behind which 



108 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section in. were mountains and vast rocks, sometimes covered 
with forests — now bearing the crimson tinge of 
autumn — but more generally lifting their white, 
chalky heads high up into the clouds. After pass- 
ing across the valley, we turned short to the right, 
when the narrow gorge of Balaclava opened before 
us, and the picturesque ruins of her old fortresses 
crowning the bold jagged cliffs beyond, burst upon 
The our sight. As we approached the village, the pass 
grew narrower and the rocks more abrupt, till, on 
one side at least, they almost overhung the dwell- 
ings, and reminded me much of Jamestown, in the 
island of St. Helena. One long, narrow street — 
its principal one — and another, parallel with it 
— containing, as I was told, three hundred houses, 
though I should judge much less — constituted the 
town. Between it and its northern barrier, was one 
of the snuggest and most quiet little harbors in the 
world. It appeared like a diminutive lake, made to 
shelter the fishermen's boats, and was, indeed, as 
secure a retreat from storm and tempest, and person- 
al foes as could be wished ; and has had great fame, 
from time immemorial, as the home of the pirates. 
I dismounted in the street, and leaving the horses 
in the care of the driver, who immediately procured 
me a Greek guide, who spoke a little Italian, I 
walked through the town, and passed out on to the 
green banks beyond; then began to scramble up 






TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 10$ 

the abrupt cliffs which here, approaching each other, SECTI0N IIL 
formed a very narrow channel, after an abrupt turn, 
opening into the wide sea. At this angle, the rocks 
of each shore are precipitous, and of several hundred 
feet in height ; and on the one I ascended, stands the 
ruins of which I had heard so much. On my way 
up, I came to large rooms under ground, neatly 
and strongly walled — higher up, other rooms, wall 
and towers ; and on the top, within a very large 
tower, a large room sunk in the rock, reached by a 
small hole in the top, easily concealed. It was pro- 
bably intended as a cistern for water, or for storage 
of provisions, and may have served as a hiding- 
place in case of danger. I climbed to the summit The 

. . . . Cliffs - 

of the loftiest bastion, and looking down the preci- 
pitous side it overhung, saw and heard the long, 
heavy, swelling waves as they rolled in from the 
vast expanse of sea, and dashed themselves in their 
might against these adamantine walls, sending up a 
ceaseless and sullen murmur, to which the still as- 
piring cliffs and neighboring caverns gave a contin- 
nuous and solemn echo. A little boat that came 
down before the wind like a sea bird, gathered in 
its sail as it neared the narrow channel, and as it 
glided in between the dark rocks, and in the next 
moment was lying motionless in the bay of Bala- 
clava, it seemed more like a scene of the fancy than 
of reality, but did not fail to adduce that beautiful 



110 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 



Section iil moral simile, so often drawn from such scenes, — 
the passage from life's storms into the haven of 
eternal rest. The strong fortress now forming this 
picturesque ruin, is supposed to have heen erected 
hy the Genoese. 

The harbor and valley of Balaclava were given, 
by Catharine the Second, to a colony of Greeks, who 
had rendered much service in her battles against the 
Turks ; and were the descendents of those natives of 
the Morea, an industrious and enterprising people, 
like the Saxon, this little port would be whitened 
with the sails of merchant men, these ancient-look- 
ing villages would put on a new garb, and resound 
with the hum of business, and the valleys would 
give luxurious harvests ; but now it sleeps in the 
stillness of her mountain tombs, and wears the as- 
pect of deserted old age. In fact, the inhabitants 
seem as though they really were, as my friend said, 
contented when they get a little sour wine. About 
three years ago, there was a vein of coal found in 
their neighborhood, and the government offered 
them ten per cent, of the profits and to pay the 
expenses, if they would work it. They declined 
the offer, but proposed to work it if they could 
have half the profits, all labor being paid for by the 
government. This was not assented to on the part 
of the latter, so the coal, so valuable here, remains 
in its native bed. In repassing the town, I noticed 






TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. Ill 

a small, open meat shop, and two grocery stores, Section m - 
and the shopmen smoking on the broad window- 
seats. In looking over a dilapidated fence, which 
once enclosed a small yard, on the balcony of a 
wooden house, apparently near falling, was one of 
the pretty Greek female costumes, inside of which 
was a robust, blooming girl, engaged in washing 
some rags. She was the only thing in the town 
that looked modern, or could be gay. Near Balla- 
clava, the natives gather the kaff-kill, a kind of 
mineral dross, of which they make beautiful pipe- 
bowls. 

On my way homeward the barrenness of the 
fields was relieved a little by the appearance of sev- 
eral Tartar shepherds and their flocks. One parti- 
cularly domestic scene remained vividly on my mind: 
A decayed-looking old women sitting on the door- 
step of her cottage, laiitting, while beside her, with- 
out even a mirror, sat a demure cat performing with 
her paw the important duties of the toilette. After 
my arrival, there came to the house to make a con- 
tract for some wood which Mr. Matoosky wanted Tartar 
for the building of a boat, a Tartar chief. He 
wore a blue jacket lined with fur, large blue 
trowsers and boots, a red sash about his waist, and 
a wool cap on his head. He was very tall, manly, 
and I think handsome ; at any rate, he looked like 
a good man, and had the reputation of being hon- 



112 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section in. es ^ Unlike most of the Eastern people, he lacked 
grace and polite bearing — stood erect and without 
removing his cap or making any gestures, spoke 
of, listened and agreed to the terms of the contract ; 
and when he was gone, the captain told me he was 
sure the man would comply, as it was about the 
time all these Tartars wanted money to pay their 
taxes, and added, that it was the only season when 
wood &c. could be had from them at a reasonable 
rate, for at any other time, though treble the 
amount was offered, they would not work. 

In the evening I took leave of my generous host 
and went to the opposite bay, to pass the night with 
my Georgian friend. When I bade him farewell, he 
shook me warmly by the hand, but could hardly 
utter a word, for his heart was full of the kindliest 
emotions, as I had changed the monotony of his 
lonely life, and he had appeared to enjoy the inter- 
ruption. Having gone several steps from the door 
he came running after me, saying " God bless you, 
God bless you." May many years of happiness be 
' his! 

Colonel Carganoff received me politely. I found 
him with his three sons, occupying a very small, 
mean room, in the house of a Greek. Tea was 
soon served, cards played, and then the beds were 
made up on the floor, chairs, and a rude divan, and 
we attempted to sleep. What success my compan- 






TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 113 

ions had I know not, bnt hosts of bed bugs charged Section iil 
upon me, as the cavalry were accustomed to charge 
under Murat, and did not retire till the dawn as- 
sured them of victory. 

2d. I had made all the necessary arrangements 
to start to day with the colonel, on our journey 
eastward. The first thing to be obtained after the 
passport, is a patarodgner^ when one wishes to Patarodg- 

ner. 

travel by land ; for, though a person may be allow- 
ed to use his own carriage, he must employ govern- 
ment horses, and the patarodgner is an official doc- 
ument which specifies the distance and the route he 
is to take, and the number of horses he will require 
at each post-station. For this paper he pays on its 
receipt one copek *)" a verst X for the entire route; 
two rubles for its stamp, and, at each station, two 
and a half copeks more for each horse, every verst 
he has passed over.§ My patarodgner I sent to the 
post, and it soon brought to me two horses and a 
common posting waggon, (a kibitka,) which were Kibrtka. 
to be used for the baggage and servant of the colo- 
onel ; while I was to have as a compensation, a seat 
in his covered carriage. Crazy and creaking as it 
was, it had good springs, and when I came to look 

* I have almost invariably adopted the plan of writing foreign words 
as they are pronounced ; but I will generally give in a note the true 
way of spelling them, — that is, so far as our language will admit of it. 

f A copek is about one cent. 

| A verst is about two thirds of an English mile. 

7 



114 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section hi. on |- ne ther vehicle, I felt thankful for this oppor- 
tune exchange, and considered that the government 
had been extremely merciful to travellers in permit- 
ting them the privilege of not being jolted to death; 
for the kibitka is nothing but a rude frame of 
unhewn coarse sticks, fastened firmly upon two 
axles, — the fore part, however, having under it a 
solid block of hardwood on which it rests, elevating 
it so as to allow the wheels more play. Six large 
horses were attached to our carriage, four at the 
pole and two leaders. The wagon had three 
abreast. The latter was managed by a Russian 
driver on the seat, and the former by two Tartar 
postillions. " En route ! " cheerfully exclaimed my 
Georgian friend, as he shook me by the hand, and 
then devoutly crossed himself, as we moved for- 
ward ; but the first few steps after the crack of 
the whip, brought the crack of the whipple-tree, 
and up against the gate-post we were attempting to 
pass. The chilling rain poured fast, and every 
thing betokened discomfort. I began to imagine 
that the passage of the Tauride would be but a 
series of miserable mishaps. Damages repaired, 
we were, however, soon whirling away with a vast 
deal more speed than I anticipated, — the mud 
being very deep, and I began ere long to experi- 
ence an inward commendation of a Tartar whip 
for a long journey. Up hill and down, with little 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 115 

to interest us but the loss of a tire, we reached the Section m 
first station. Here my companions had a quarrel 
with the keeper, who, on account of the badness of 
the roads, wished to compel us to take eight horses 
instead of six, which we declined doing, and con- 
tinued on with only the number our patarodgners 
demanded. As we advanced, the country became 
hilly, and the gentle valleys and wide-spread plains 
which succeeded, seemed more inviting to the hand 
of the cultivator. 

It is extremely fortunate that fatiguing and even 
disagreeable journies usually prepare the stomach 
to welcome the most indifferent food, making that 
which would be loathsome in the hours of luxury 
and ease, more palatable than the daintiest of viands. 
With such convictions, and sensations that fully, or 
more properly, emptily responded to them, we ar- 
rived at Bagtchi-sarai,* our next station, to dine. Bagtchi- 

Bagtchi-sarai is one of the largest and most in- 
teresting towns of the Crimea, though, independent 
of its lovely situation, there is little that is beauti- 
ful, except the palace of the khans. This notable 
and very curious edifice, displaying taste, luxury 
and a peculiar degree of refinement, has won the 

* Pronounced Back-sarai, and means a palace in a garden. Sarai, 
or seraglio, Heber says, is applied in Tartar and Turkish language, 
indifferently to the yard of an inn, or the enclosure of a palace. 
" Bagtchi-Sarai, seems to have bean the Palatium of Strabo, and the 
Badatium of Ptolemy." — Guthrie, p. 72. 

7* 



116 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section m. uriDO unded admiration of some, and the contempt of 
others. A Swedish painter showed to me a model 
of it, which had cost him nearly a year's labor to 
make. Charmed with its proportions, elaborate 
work, gardens, etc., he accurately measured, drew 
and painted every portion of it, and then built it in 
exquisite miniature. It was evident, however, from 
his enthusiastic description of this truly enticing 
abode, that his imagination had always peopled its 
solitary chambers and deserted walks. Through 
every lattice he sketched, he saw the dark eyes of 
the fairest of the Tartar princesses ; at every win- 
dow, the curtain w r as put aside by some delicate 
hand ; and on every divan a soft and gentle form 
was reclining, the sytyliide of the harem, an embo- 
diment of divinity. The fountains were surrounded 
by nymphs; in every bath, their most smooth and 
supple, pearl-adorned limbs were being bathed, and 
every marble pavement seemed waiting for their 
fairy tread. The voice of the moullah he heard 
sounding sonorously from the top of the minaret, 
calling to prayers ; and in each bird that hovered 
among the thousand trees of the gardens or drank 
of the crystal waters, which every where were pour- 
ing into their Parian basins, he felt the charm of 
transmigration, and sought to convince himself, 
rather than to destroy the illusion, that they were 
the similitude, and, in truth, the spirit of those fair, 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 117 

frail creatures of the seraglio, whose presence was Section m - 
an intoxicating delight, and whose beauty was a 
rich perfume to the soul, now revisiting their former 
haunts. 

How much better it is, when one can invest an Reflection 
old, deserted palace with such pleasing and renovat- 
ing subjects, than to look upon it as a mere motley 
collection of wooden buildings, huddled together 
without harmony or grandeur, and find fault with 
it because it is not according to preconceived notions 
of what it should be, regardless of the habits of 
the people for whom it was erected. Who would 
not rather, like Lamartine, travel with the warm 
glow on the mind which credulousness and a desire 
of the beautiful often impart, than, like M. Hom- 
maire, be designated to make an accurate measure- 
ment of the arid steppes between the Euxine and 
the Caspian, and find nothing in modem improve- 
ments but vandalism ! 

The Sardi is in no degree imposing, but is per- The 

Palace. 

fectly adapted to a quiet and sumptuous life. The 
greatest of Russian poets* has sung its fascina- 
tions, and Catharine the Second lodged here on her 
visit to the Crimea, with Potemkin. But nothing 
has given it more interest than the residence of the 
beautiful Countess Potocki, who, for ten years, was 
a willing, yet weeping, captive of a Mahometan 

# Puskin. 



118 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. • 

SBonoy m. kh^ whose ardent love, however, could not efface 
the remorse of so strange a union, or save her from 
an early grave. The Oriental character of this pal- 
ace, even in all its details, has been scrupulously 
preserved by imperial orders, though I am not in- 
formed of a single English or French traveller who 
has visited the country, who has not unequivocally 
asserted, that the Russians do all that lies in their 
power to efface every vestige of a monument around 
which clings any halo of antiquity, or that stands a 
memorial of the religion, power or customs of any 
former people. I will not deny that many an old, 
rude wall has been made in part subservient to the 
building of new towns, or that the picturesque tem- 
ples dedicated to Mahomet have been considered 
too profane to rear their graceful minarets hard by 
where Jesus of Nazareth was worshipped ; but I do 
deny, that they have been removed for the sole pur- 
pose of destroying, and not from motives of utility or 
commendable religious veneration or enthusiasm.* 
As I have said before, the palace of Bagtchi-sarai, the 
Alhambra of the Crimea, by the especial care of the 
imperial families, has preserved its fantastic appear- 

* " The savage and wanton barbarity of the Russians found in the 
magnificence of this capital wherewith to exercise, in its full scope, 
their favorite passions for destruction." — Clark's Travels, Am. Ed., 
vol. I., p. 376. 

" Whole streets were demolished merely through an insane passion 
for destruction." — Spencer, vol I., p. 368. 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 



119 



ance, even to the gildings and paintings. When s * CTI0NnL 
Catharine the Second came here, a portion of it was 
fitted np in French style, which is said to have dis- 
pleased her exceedingly, and she caused an immedi- 
ate order to be issued for its restoration ; and as the 
same feelings have possessed her successors, it still 
represents a chapter in the Arabian Nights Enter- 
tainments. It was commenced during the reign of 
Menghely-Gherai the First,* the most illustrious of 
all the khans who have governed this lovely country. 
Bagtchi-Sarai is situated in a romantic glen, 
through which runs a small stream, the Djourouk- 
sou, and is overshadowed by neighboring cliffs, 
which supplies her fountains with water and gives 
an agreeable temperature to her summer heats. It 
has all the characteristics of a Turkish town, — 
mosques, chiosks ; low, tiled houses ; narrow, dirty 
streets, much obstructed by dogs and citizens ; and 
not so much "to please as I anticipated when I wrote 
concerning it in a former chapter. 

Catharine the Second granted to the Tartars the 
exclusive privilege of residing here, and it has con- 
sequently retained its Oriental features. In this 
vicinity lived Richelieu, and the learned and elegant 
Pallas ; the one the child of fortune, the other the 
victim of a too sensitive nature and a too loyal dis- 
position. Richelieu, whose memory the inhabitants Ki,helieu. 

* In the latter part of the fifteenth century. 



120 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section in. £ Odessa so fondly cherish, was no less beloved, 
during his sojourn in the Tauride as governor.* 
Pallas came and wrote his famous Book of Travels, 
and so pleased the Empress Catharine by the glow- 
ing description he gave of the country, that she 
thought she could not reward him better than by 
giving to him a portion of it, with an income of 
two thousand rubles.*)* Pallas considered it but 
a species of exile, and was overwhelmed. He saw 
that he was the dupe of a simple desire to make the 
newly-acquired territory grateful to his sovereign, 
and he sat himself down without the power or cour- 
age to complain, suffering in body and mind till the 
shades of an unending night veiled him from the 
world. 

Manufac- Bagtchi-Sarai has been noted for its manufac- 
tures of morocco and felt carpets. Its cutlery, too, 
is peculiar from its superior temper, and surpasses 
any thing in Southern Russia. My friend, Captain 
Matoosky of Savastopol, told me, that he had sent 
a man here who made knives for the navy, for the 
express purpose of learning the art which this peo- 
ple only seemed to possess in a high degree. The 
workman succeeded admirably while he remained, 
but on his return found that his knives were no 

* Count Maurawieff says, " Je ne cormais personne qui ait laisse 
une memoire plus veneree hors de sa patrie. Ces Tatares pronon- 
cent toujours son nom avec emotion et tendresse." 

f These were rubles assignation. The silver ruble. 



tures. 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 121 

better than those he made previous to his expedi- SECTIoy m - 
tion. The captain then came to the conclusion 
that the good quality was owing to the river water 
into which they were dipped, as it was impregnated 
with a portion of the substances of the innumer- 
able skins soaking there, preparatory to being con- 
verted into leather. The oddity of the thing, how- 
ever, is, that the best manufacturers of the articles 
of cutlery are Gypsies. 

Menghely-Gherai, the First, appears to have been A. D. 1475 
the first who fully appreciated the beauties of the 
valley of the Djourouk-Sou, and made its neighbor- 
ing mountains echo to the voice of a busy popula- 
tion. In 1736 Kaplan-Gherai opened a campaign 
against the Russians but was unsuccessful. Eliza- Elizabeth, 
beth marched her armies into the heart of the coun- 
try, took and partially destroyed Bagtchi-Sarai, 
made peace and retired. Selamet-Gherai Second, a ^. d. 1740 
mild and amiable prince, devoted his short reign to 
adorning with temples and fountains the spot which 
had already for two centuries and a half been the 
favorite of his worthy and exalted predecessors. In 
1775 a spirited revolution broke out here which put 
to night the Khan Saheb. In it were manifest Saheb 
those elements of discord which grew out of the 
jealousy of the two great rival powers, each of 
which sought to place their willing tool at the 
head of the government. His immediate prede- 



122 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section hi. cessor was on iy a f ew m0 nths upon the throne, and 
Saheb himself had had but about three years of 
partial domination, when he became a fugitive. 
He sought the protection of the Grand Seigneur, 
who hospitably received him and sent him to Rome- 
lia with a pension of three thousand piastres. Im- 

A^DrnV mec tiately after this, Chahyn, the last of the khans 
marched on Bagtchi-Sarai with an army of thirty 
thousand Circassians, Nogais and Tartars. Dew- 
let, the nominated sovereign, struggled for a while, 
then yielded his tottering throne and fled to Con- 
stantinople. These are the principal events which 
have marked its history, and though much may in 
truth be said of devastations in the Crimea con- 
sequent on wars, they are not peculiar to the con- 
tests carried on in this country ; and though ancient 
landmarks and ruins, and Mohammedan mosques, 
and streets of mud-hovels may sometimes have 
been destroyed, or removed from the way of mod- 
ern improvements, this ancient city of the khans, 
stands, at least, as one bold and incontrovertible 
evidence of the lenity and tolerance extended by 
the Muscovites to their subjugated enemies. 

Near Bagtchi-Sarai are two interesting places, I 
regret I did not visit: Mount Tchatyr-dagh,* the 

Trapeze. Trapeze of Strabo, and the residences of a strange, 

# It means mountain of the tent, from its resembling that object 
when seen on approaching the coast from the westward. 






TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 123 



Section III. 



patriarchal set of people called Caraite Jews. The 
former is about eight versts distant, and the latter Caraites. 
on the summit of an almost inaccessible rock, just 
above the town, at the head of the valley. These 
Caraites differ from their brethren hi many respects, 
but more particularly in their rejection of the Tal- 
mud. They are said to be found also in Syria, 
Egypt and the Caucasus. Their aerial town is Tchou- 

■n-imi r> -i-1'.i*. fbut-Kale. 

called lcnoufout-kale. # 

5th. After a drive of about thirty versts iti most 

tempestuous weather, we arrived last night at eleven 

o'clock at Ak-Metched (the white mosque) now Ak-Met- 

ched. 
called by the Russians, Sympherapol, its ancient 

Grecian name.*)* Only a day's journey from Savas- 
topol, and yet I felt as though I had been a week 
on the road, so wearied was I by our slow progress, 
oWing to the clayey soil which clung to the wheels, 
and the want of ordinary sleep on a bed. The 
large and handsome post-house was looked on with 
the utmost satisfaction, and we hurried into it, an- 
ticipating a good supper and a good night's repose. 
We were soon convinced of the uselessness of 
such hasty conclusions, for we had to resort to our 

* Tchoufout is an expression of vulgar contempt. It is not known 
why this name was applied to them, as they are strictly honest peo- 
ple. Kale signifies a fortress, and is appended to several names of 
towns, which I shall have occasion to mention hereafter. 

f From the Greek word, signifying I am useful. Pallas speaks of 
this " restoration of the ancient Greek name," but M. Guthrie says 
he found no evidence of 'its being ever used so. 



124 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section in. own wa rj e £ f or evei y thing we wanted to eat and 
drink, and to the floor for our couch. The inmates 
however did have the kindness to supply us with a 
semivar of hot water, with which we made our tea. 

Semivar. The semivar is found in all these stations, and 
seems, with the exception of tumblers, to be the 
only thing for which one is expected to ask. It is 
in the form of our coffee urns, but has a hollow 
tube passing down through its centre, which, when 
filled with live coals, kept burning by the draught 
from below, causes the contents to boil very speedi- 
ly. For the use of it, one pays twelve copeks. 

Sympher- Sympherapol, from its central situation and agree- 
apo ' able locale on the banks of a brook called the Sal- 
gir, which runs north east, and empties into the 
Putrid Sea, was planned by the Russians for a large 
town and the capital of the Crimea. Many fine 
public buildings, churches and private residences 
have been erected, giving the modern portion of it 
a pleasing, though foreign aspect, particularly 
when contrasted with that occupied by the Tartar 
habitations. The Tartars, however, and their rulers, 
are not the only people, for here, as in Bagtchi- 
Sarai, are seen the subtle Greek, the calculating 
Armenian and the parsimonious Jew — eight thous- 
and in all, including a thousand Gypsies — engaged 
in the various businesses suited to their tastes. The 
site of Sympherapol is considered by many as an un- 






TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 125 

healthy one ; yet it is much frequented in winter SECTIoy IIL 
by the wealthy proprietors of the fertile, flowery 
southern coast, and by distinguished officers, who 
form for a few months, reunions of the most agree- 
able nature. "When the Kalga Sultan* held his 
court here, it is said to have been much more beauti- 
ful than at present, being adorned with palaces, gard- 
ens, fountains and mosques, which have now dis- 
appeared. Pallas spent his last days here, and in Pallas, 
his sixtieth year, on the 24th of April, 1801, dedi- 
cated to the Emperor his second volume of Travels, 
and wrote that sad preface to his work which com- 
mences with a confession of the " disquietude and 
hardships that oppressed him." I have heard it 
mentioned that a Miss Xeilson, a Scotch lady,* who, 
I was told, was married here to a Tartar ex-Sultan — 
he having embraced Christianity during a residence 
in the country of his fair bride — lived happily with 
him, under the especial protection of the Russian 
government, from which he received a pension as . 
an adherent to the Muscovite power. My com- 
panions, interested in the novel affair, made several 
enquiries concerning the parties, but much to my 
regret did not learn anything. 

A century and a half ago Motraye visited this Montraye. 

* His functions were nearly the same as those of a vice-khan, act- 
ing as regent when the khan died, till another was appointed by the 
Sultan. 



126 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section in. p} ace an( j ^hus S p ea ]^ s f the acting sultan, whom 
he visited in his palace, " a rather convenient than 
handsome" edifice: — "He seemed about twenty- 
eight years of age, of a middling stature, but strong, 
and inured to all manner of fatigues, as fasting, 
and lying upon the ground, like the meanest Tar- 
tar ; his complexion was a little swarthy, rather 
the effect of his hardships, than the heat of the 
climate." There was, then, also, on the banks of 
the larger stream, formed by the Salgir, and of 
other rivers, a delicious wine grown, which spark- 
led in the glass like Burgundy and Champagne, 
and was equally palatable and cost less than two 
pence the bottle. 

WomeE. We found also a good wine produced in the neigh- 
borhood. Here, too, was impressed on our minds 
the glaring difference of customs growing out of 
modern civilization and those unvarying ones of 
the Orient. The Tartar woman closely veiled, 

smothered in her ferredge — avoiding the intrusive 

« 

gaze, and shuffling along in her yellow boots or 
slippers, stops astonished at the bold, laughing, 
open face of the Russian belle, as she sweeps by in 
her gay drosky. If you follow the former, you will 
find her descending into some filthy, narrow lane, 
and after picking her way along ingeniously 
through the mud, on the tops of irregular stones 
which render it impassable for any sort of vehicle, 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 127 

will slip quietly in at a gate in a high wall, which S£CTI0S m ' 
conceals her home and her habits equally from the 
passer. The point of a tile roof, the top of a tree, 
and the climbing vine may indicate, perhaps, a 
dwelling and a garden; but for these signs, one 
might consider himself walking in an uncovered 
cellar. The Muscovite lady ascends to the elevated 
plain, where broad streets, massive buildings and 
armed soldiers, bespeak wealth and power. She 
alights, and soon, through the open windows of 
an airy mansion, is seen whirling in the waltz with 
an amant, sipping tea in a family circle, or reading 
the last French novel. Which of these lives most 
tends to elevate our social condition, and which 
contributes most to the happiness of the sex, I will 
leave my readers to judge, as well as which he 
would prefer. One or the other will soon pass 
away. 



SECTION IV. 



Section IV. 



tarns. 



5th. On my way to Theodosia, the ancient! A 
chilling wind was whistling from the north, across 
the vast steppes, but I gave little heed to it, as my 
mind was filled with pleasing and lively historical 
reminiscences of the place, amid the solitude of 
whose fallen temples I was seen to stand. 
Moun- "\y e left Ak-Metched at an early hour. Our 
route lay along the plains; but, on our right, to 
our journey's end, extended that noble chain of 
mountains whose valleys and warm exposures form 
the true gardens of the Tauride. This range lifts 
up like a huge wall, as if made to protect the fields 
and flocks from the blighting storms of the Euxine. 
In many places its sharp cliffs reached the clouds ; 
in others, long lines of jutting white rock were ex- 
ceedingly conspicuous, as contrasted with the now 
deep purple forests which cover its sides. It look- 
ed as though there had been spread over it a vast 
royal mantle trimmed with ermine. 

We passed several Tartar villages, some of which, 
had we been on foot, we should not have seen at all, 
as the mud and stone walls, seven or eight feet 






TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 129 

high, which encompassed them, would have exclud- Section iv - 
ed our sight ; as it was we overlooked them, and 
saw an assemblage of dirty little houses, very low r , 
with small windows, closed by sheets of paper in- 
stead of glass. These dwellings generally surround 
some dirty little yard, which has, perhaps, occupy- 
ing its foreground, numerous dirty little children, 
with a wool-capped Tartar standing in bold relief in 
the back-ground. All this was occasionally agreea- 
bly relieved by some graceful minaret, which spoke, 
like history, of the religion of the people we were 
among. In some of the orchards were to be seen 
large piles of beautiful apples, and magnificent 
cabbages. Of the latter, we passed at one time, 
twenty waggon loads on the way to market. Seve- 
ral women presented themselves to our notice. One 
was picking up manure for fuel, another, with 
short, square frame was repairing a fence ; a third 
was very active in scratching her head. Those 
encountered outside the walls were muffled up 
as usual, walked erect and appeared dignified. 
None of them, however, were attractive — the god- 
dess of beauty, or even the Taurian Diana could 
have had but little to do with their- composition — 
if I except a single individual, who, from h r cos- 
tume and air, must have been an Armenian. She 
was superbly made; her red jacket fitted closely 
her waist, and her skirts hung gracefully to her 
8 



130 m TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section iv. an ki es ^ g ne na( } a re( j ca p jauntily set upon her 
head ; while her braided hair, black as night, fell 
in full length down her back, as gracefully as her 
gait was queenly. She walked into her humble 
abode without deigning to notice us. 
Flocks. A vineyard here and there, and occasionally a 
neat vegetable garden attracted our attention ; but 
that which awakened the greatest interest as being 
characteristic of the country, were the vast flocks 
of sheep and goats which, as far as the eye could 
reach, extended over the plains. They were always 
tended by the Tartar shepherds, who, with the 
same style of long, crooked staff as that used by 
their most remote ancestors, and with the ever at- 
tentive dog, followed near, or stood on some neigh- 
boring acclivity, which enabled them to command 
a better view of their charge, amounting, in some 
instances, I was credibly informed, to twenty and 
even thirty thousand animals. It did, however, ap- 
pear to me, at first, quite strange that any man 
could be induced to pass day after day for years in 
such a monotonous, listless and seemingly useless 
occupation ; but when I began to consider the in- 
credible vastness of these flocks and the advantage 
they have in wandering unrestrained over the al- 
most interminable and beautiful fields, intersected 
by neither wall nor fence of any kind, which causes 
the peculiarity of the aspect nature here presents, 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 131 

I ceased to be surprised that there were so manv sechontv. 
thousands who could well afford to give their poor 
time in contemplating and guarding their treasures. 
Of cows and horses, however, I saw none of those 
countless herds, which browsed on the banks of 
the Danube ; but their absence was fully compen- 
sated by numbers of the Bactrian camel roaming 
over the steppes, which gave a fine effect to the 
scene, adding much to the picturesqueness of that 
which was already novel and exciting. But when, 
as was often the case, I saw these same noble and 
patient creatures yoked to the rude waggons of the 
Tartars, it seemed quite sacrilegious. They them- 
selves looked ashamed of the mean occupation in 
which they were engaged. Formed by nature to 
traverse the sandy deserts and to bear across them 
the richest of merchandise, and venturesome travel- 
lers, their dragging loads of cabbages seemed at 
strange variance with the design of their creation. 
I must confess the sight was so humiliating that I 
felt strong pity for them; but when they lifted 
their stately forms, free and unyoked, in the vast 
plains, they awakened a kind of respect and sym- 
pathy in their dignified freedom. 

The oxen which were used in the carts were gen- 
erally small and poor, and the horses also, with 
some few exceptions. The drivers did not ride on 

their loads, and their cattle were yoked as ours are 
8* 



132 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section iv. an( j n0 £ ^j ft± e horns, as is practised by the Span- 
iards. Judging from their vehicles, one would con- 
clude that mechanical ingenuity could not be a 
prominent element in the composition of this peo- 
ple, for the first maker of wheels could not have 
contrived them with joints farther apart, than those 
of the Tartar waggons, or have succeeded in getting 
them further from a circle, unless he had premedi- 
tated an octagonal. 

Karassu- At 2 o'clock, we reached another Tartar village 

Bazar. 

— Karassu-Bazar — where we were to dine. Its 
situation was pleasant, in the neighborhood of a 
little stream which turned several mill-wheels. On 
the highlands around, were some wind-mills, and 
by the road-side was a burying-ground ; and though 
its turbaned tomb-stones made it an interesting 
sight, its want of seclusion and the usual shade of 
the dark, mournful cypress, deprived it of that pe- 
culiar charm which lingers always round the rest- 
ing place of the believer in Mahomet. 

We had ordered dinner, but were obliged to send 
out and buy the meat and vegetables. When this 
was done, the good woman of the house cooked 
them for us, making a kind of stew. It did not 
particularly court our appetites, yet as there was no 
better to compare it with, we ate it with wooden 
spoons, slightly thankful, having, in Eussian fash- 
ion, prepared our stomachs by a glass of raw eau 
de vie. 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 133 

Karassu-Bazar, in the time of Pallas, contained Section iv - 
twenty-three Tartar metchets, an Armenian Catho- 
lic church and a synagogue, twenty- three khans, 
and nine hundred dwelling-houses. The popula- 
tion was, as at present, composed of Greeks, Armen- 
ians, Jews and Tartars — fifteen hundred males, and 
upwards of two thousand females, none of whom 
elicited any expressions of admiration from my 
Georgian companions, who were ever awake to the 
beautiful of the gentler sex, however dull to the 
loveliness of nature. This reminds me of the care 
the elder of the young men took to make himself 
look charming, on entering any of these towns, 
though in his habits he was excessively slovenly 
and of a character that would have rendered him, 
had he been well known, repulsive to every woman 
of refinement. His good looks were his all, and 
all that seemed to fix his thoughts. Just before ar- 
riving at a place, he would deliberately do up his 
hair in papers, and take it down before he descend- 
ed from the carriage, never for an instant appearing 
to think that he was acting a most e Animate part, 
particularly as an officer in the navy. 

Karassu-Bazar has always been a place of a village, 
good deal of traffic. Several of the meat and 
bread shops which I closely noticed, were neat 
and cleanly, but those which were truly the gos- 

iping places of the village, were the dirty, dis- 



134 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section iv or d ere a blacksmiths' shops. These were the loung- 
ing places of the family of the master, and there 
congregated the more intimate friends, probably for 
the purpose, as in most all small towns, of rejoic- 
ing over the misfortunes of others, and listening to, 
or creating some new scandal. Tailors were rather 
scarce, for it required but little sewing to put a few 
sheepskins together to make a long coat, and none 
at all for one of the skin caps usually worn by the 
Tartars. Bootmakers, however, must have found 
continuous employment, as almost every one of the 
inhabitants had long boots, outside of his panta- 
loons, when any were worn. Their coats were very 
long, and were so tied about the waist that they 
quite enveloped the whole body, so that little was 
to be seen except sheepskin and boots. 

There is said to exist here still, one of those an- 
tique baths which have, by many, been called tem- 
ples, and are very curious. 

Theodosia. A dark and sombre night had gathered about us, 
when, at a slow and cautious pace, we descended a 
steep hill towards the south, and entered Theodo- 
sia. Our route for some distance lay by the shore, 
and while a bright light now and then glistened 
along the water from vessels in the bay, the dash- 
ings of the waves against the old ruins, which time 
and the elements had long sported with, made sad 
music as it mingled with the scream of some start- 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 135 

led bird, the barking of the watch-dog of the quiet SECTI0N IY - 
suburbs, and the louder and varied sounds of the 
more busy village. We entered within some an- 
tique walls, and alighted at the door of a modern 
post house. Here the first thing that greeted our 
ears, was a lively tune played on a violin and clari- 
onet, evidently to some merry party. I stepped 
across the court to a neighboring house, where at 
once I saw the players themselves, and what was 
better, a gay Greek girl, on the floor alone, enjoy- Dancing 

Girl. 

mg one of her native dances. She belonged ap- 
parently to the lowest class of females, yet she was 
richly dressed, and as her dark eyes blazed with 
the excitement of the moment, • and her cheeks 
flushed with her exertions, the attention of all the 
company was fixed upon her ; but when her move- 
ments revelled in the voluptuous, tempered with 
grace, their applause and acclamations burst forth 
unrestrained. Some Russian soldiers then mingled 
in a dance, and I returned to my quarters, think- 
ing how little these people probably knew or cared 
about the monuments around them, and how much 
less was their indifference with respect to my opin- 
ion of their ignorance. 

We found the house excedingly small, having 
only two rooms. One of these with a leather sofa, a 
table and ourselves was nearly full ; the other, still 
smaller, was occupied principally by the good man's 



136 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

sector iv. w jf e> a huge woman, who was asleep with her 
clothes oi} (a common custom I believe among the 
poor of this country) on a poor, badly appointed 
bed, and undisturbed by the noise our postillions 
made in bringing in baggage, and in the prepara- 
tions for supper. The latter operation had nothing 
in it peculiar, except the production of some most 
execrable new wine, in a large earthen jar, in ap- 
pearance a very antique from the depths of Pom- 
peii. On the floor, with my head on my saddle- 
bags, amid that peculiar silence and the stillness of 
desolation which broods over these old places I 
went to sleep. 

Ruins of 7th. At early dawn I was up and away amid 
the Ruins of CafFa, of whose monuments, though 
many rare and curious ones have disappeared, and 
been irrevocably lost, there are still some which at- 
test, at least, the former wealth and power of those 
merchant princes of Italy who have been for so 
many ages famed for their spirited commercial 
enterprise, as well as for being the progenitors of 
a Columbus and a Doria. Massive walls and towers 
look down from the range of hills which gird the 
town, and others stand firmly at their base and 
brave the storm in its coming, while the remains of 
baths and temples speak of a refined age passed 
away. On a superior elevation is a fortified spot, 
resembling the citadel at Balaclava, before de- 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 13T 

scribed, while the general disposition of the works Section iv - 
of defence showed the character of the inhabitants, 
as well as what they feared. The Tartars of the 
north were shut out and held at bay, while the 
harbor, with its three ports, opened its wide mouth 
to the commerce of the seas.* 

Six hundred years B. C, the Milesians, with that 
peculiar spirit of advancement which characterizes 
the Saxon race, having reared their beautiful cities 
in Ionian Attica and gathered wealth from the East, 
West and South, sent their colonies *(* northward, 
along the shores of the Euxine. Among other 
settlements, they founded the city of Theodosia, 
whose excellent position for all the purposes they 
had in view, in extending their influence, at once 
courted their attention and so pleased them that 
they named it Theodosia, the gift of God. It soon 
became one of the most nourishing towns of this 
inland sea, and was called the lesser Constantinople, 
or Stamboul,J and had, says Clark, 36,000 houses 
within its walls ; and, including the surburbs, not 
less than 44,000. In the reign of Spartacus 
First, it was the seat of government ; what splen- 

# Guthrie says : " The principal entrance to this fortified city was 
from the harbor, secured by three strong ports, one within another, 
as its Tartar name Utsch Kappii expresses." 

f Pliny makes the number of colonies established by the Milesians 
amount to eighty. 

\ Kutshuk-Stumbul (Little Constantinople), was the Tartar name 
for it. 



138 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section iv, c j or ^ p} ace i ia d attained at that time is not known, 
but its power was probably not very great. This 
sovereign and his immediate successor are spoken 
of by ancient writers as the allies of Greece. Thirty 
years afterwards, however, Satyrus is mentioned as 
granting permission to the Athenians, to trade at 
Theodosia for the grain of the country which it 
produced hi remarkable quantities. Satyrus per- 
ished at the siege of this place, 392 B. C. after 
reigning over the Bospore nineteen years. It is 
even said by some that the most exquisite bath of 
the Orient, which adorned this city, was erected on 
the very spot where he fell. Others affirm that 
Theodosia occupied entirely another site.* 

The commerce of Theodosia j" must have been 

Maimfac- large as early as the reign of the illustrious Leucon, 
who exported to Athens at one time three hundred 
and thirty millions pounds weight of grain, which, 
owing to the distressed state of the Greeks, was 
deemed such a blessing that three pillars were said 
to have been erected at different places to com- 
memorate the generous act of that sovereign. One 
of these columns, was placed at Athens, another 
at Kertsch and the third in the island of Taman. 
The latter is supposed to have been the one dis- 

# Vossius says : " Theodosia Caffa vocari creditur, sed male ; distin- 
guunt enim Ten Kaphan Gra?ci posteriores a Theodosia." 

f Demosthenes, in one of his orations, refers to Theodosia as one 
of the most prosperous of cities. 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 139 

covered on the eastern shore of the Bospore and Section iv 
carried to St. Petersburg. 

From the time of Leucon to the birth of Christ, Historical 
twenty kings reigned over the Cimmerian Bosporus, 
and Theodosia though long an independent colony, 
had become incorporated with that kingdom. In 
the second century of our era the Greek historian 
Arrian in an epistle to Adrian speaks of Theodosia 
as a deserted town. It had according to some 
writers been devasted by neighboring nations, (and 
finally sacked by the fierce and warlike Alaric,) who, 
migrating from Asia westward, poured themselves 
down upon the flourishing towns in their way, and 
like a pestilence, left a mournful trail of their pas- 
sage. Others state that the Alani came from the 
region of Mount Caucasus, at the time of the de- 
cline of the Roman Empire, and therefore could 
not have been the cause of the sad tales of Arrian. 
The Huns were more successful than their prede- 
cessors in the work of devastation, and nothing re- 
mained of the fair Milesian colony after they had 
coiled their dark folds around it. Its commerce 
was finished, but the broad, glistening harbor was 
still there. Her magazines and temples were level 
with the dust, but there was a charm in their very 
silence, and the green hills still rose in stateliness 
and beauty about them. They were all yet to have 
an effect — the repeopling of her sunny shores and 



140 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section iv. fflj^g fo e b av ^h fa e W elcome white- winged car- 
rier-doves of trade. But from her destruction by 
the barbarians of the East, till the Genoese es- 
tablished here a colony, little is recorded of her. 
Yet she rose to be the centre of the spirit of Orient- 
al traffic, in strength to rival the most powerful, 
and in many luxuries to vie with great Stamboul 
itself. The origin of this new power was the vast 
quantity of grain which the Tauride produced, and 
which was exchanged for the fine manufactures of 
Greece and Italy. This commenced in the eleventh 
century, and in the thirteenth a Genoese colony, 
under one of the distinguished Dorias, landed at 
Theodosia. A slight foothold in this new country, 
was all they at first sought, trusting to their own 
shrewdness to make such further progress as they 
might require. Loaded with rich and costly 
presents, they presented themselves to the Khan, 
prince Oran Timour, and desired the privilege of 
.erecting some magazines, in which to deposit their 
merchandise. In the simplicity of his heart, or per- 
haps with a desire to promote the prosperity of his 
country, the sovereign gave the permission. The 
Genoese then represented to him, that their valu- 
able wares, were exposed at all times to any attack 
that might be made upon them by the hands of 
jobbers who infested the country, and solicited and 
obtained the privilege of making a fosse around 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 141 

their habitations and warehouses. Along this, they SECTIoy IY - 
then threw vast quantities of stone, which ere long 
assumed the regular shape of a strongly built and 
well fortified wall, and at last, to the great mortifi- 
cation of the Khan, stretched out a redoubtable 
line of ramparts, in the centre of which the wily 
Italians built Caffa. Too late, the Tartar chief 
discovered his error ; and while he raged at his 
own lack of policy, and threatened the destruc- 
tion and utter annihilation of these foreigners, 
they from their lofty bastions, laughed at his imbe- 
cility. Their commercial greatness and power were 
commensurate with their native energy and their 
prosperity was unrivalled, and within the space of 
a quarter of a century, they were enabled to send 
their gallies to the aid of the Tripolitans of Syria 
who were warring with the Mohamedans. 

The Venetians, envious of the growing strength Venetians 
of the Genoese, and covetous of the wealth they Genoese, 
saw floating past them, sent twenty-five gallies to 
attack the new city of Theodosia, and put an end 
to the Tauric schemes of its founders. Unaware 
of the Venetian plot, they were but illy prepared 
to endure so serious an assault. They however 
sustained themselves through a most bloody strug- 
gle, but the flag of Venice at last waved over the 
ruins its bearers had made. 

The Venetians were excessively elated by this 



142 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section iv. new conquest, and active measures were taken to 
secure to themselves all the lucrative channels 
which had awakened their cupidity and given to 
them a new home in the peninsula; but there 
arose a power against which it was vain to contend 
— a hand was stretched out, against which it was 
useless to battle. A most rigorous winter came, in 
which hundreds of flocks and herds perished. The 
Venetians, believing that this country, of which 
they had received such glowing accounts, was the 
mild and flowery paradise of the East, found them- 
selves wholly unprepared to cope with its chilling 
blasts which swept over the desolate steppes. This 
was succeeded by a frightful famine, which extend- 
ed over the whole country, and the foreigners, after 
losing one third of their soldiers, were obliged to 
gather the wreck of that army together, which was 
so recently rejoicing with victory, and fly back to 
their own more hospitable shores. 

On the departure of the Venetians, the Genoese 
returned, and, with renewed zeal, commenced the 
restoration of their ill-starred village, and soon 
made it more prosperous than ever.* In fact, as 
early as 1318, Pope John the Twenty-second, (not 
he who was a pirate in his youth, but James of 
Ossa,) chose it for the residence of a metropolitan 

Chardin, in his journey to Persia, in 1662, says he saw in the bay 
of Caffa four hundred vessels. 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 143 

bishop, whose jurisdiction extended from the Black Section IV 
Sea to the Russian territories. 

The hauteur and superior bearing with which the 
Ligurians ever regarded their barbaric neighbors, Cause of 

6 & & ' Quarrel. 

created in the breasts of the latter the most perfect 
repugnance towards these strangers, and it only 
wanted some glaring occasion to manifest its bitter- 
ness. The time finally arrived. A poor Tartar 
herdsman * had been into the town, to dispose of 
some cattle, leaving at a friend's house, at the gates 
of Caffa, his wife and a youthful daughter. A 
soldier on guard there, seeing the girl, who was ex- 
tremely beautiful, conceived the most violent pas- 
sion for her, and was resolved at all risks to possess 
her. Knowing that when the father came back, 
he, with his family, would return to the plains, 
where he should never see the lovely child again, it 
at once determined him to rid himself of the father, 
and oblige the females by some accusation to throw 
themselves upon his generosity and protection. 
Fortune favored his plans. The herdsman return- 
ed late, and when about to pass the sentinel, the 
latter began to accuse him as though there had been 
some provocation, and soon fell upon him and des- 
patched him with his spear. He then reported to 

* " A Tartar having a dispute," says Guthrie, " with a Genoese shop- 
keeper, in the market place of Caffa, it ended in a fray, wherein the 
Tartar was killed." 



144 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section iv. ^ SU p er i or that the man had attempted his life, 
and he had only killed him in self-defence ; and, as 
the people were barbarians, it was like sacrificing a 
dog, and, of course, there were none to blame him. 
The soldier then new to the dwelling where, in the 
deepest anxiety, rested the unhappy wife, and she 
who by the power of her beauty had made him mad. 
He confessed his guilt, but pleaded his love, and 
then told them of the accusation he would bring 
against them, if they refused to comply witTi his 
wishes. The natural shrewdness of the mother 
came to her aid, and she promised to grant most 
cheerfully all he desired if he would but wait till 
the following day. He was contented, and depart- 
ed with the assurance that he would be welcome on 
the next morning. During the night, however, 
mounted on fleet horses which their worthy host 
provided, they hastened to the khan, Djanibek, sov- 
ereign of Kaptchak,* and related to him all that 
had occurred. " I have borne enough," said the in- 
dignant sovereign, " and it is now time for me to 
take signal vengeance." He at once sent word to 
the Genoese that they must leave the country in 
which they had no right, and abandon the spot they 
had acquired solely by artifice. The ambassador 
being treated with contempt, the khan at once put 
himself at the head of a large army and laid siege 
to the city. His forces, however, availed him no- 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 145 

thing ; and, after some time, he was glad to capitu- SECTIoy IY 
late, recognizing the right of the Ligurians to pos- 
sess the places occupied by their citizens, while the 
latter were to permit the Tartar prefect to reside at 
Caffa, whose business it should be to regulate all 
the commercial and political affairs of his own peo- 
ple. This taught them a lesson ; and they imme- 
diately commenced the building of those gigantic- 
walls, whose ruins still astonish the traveller, and 
in thirty-three years saw them completed, with their 
massive towers, occupying every commanding posi- 
tion, and seeming to defy the armies of the world. 
• A few centuries passed away, and the great Ma- 15th Cen- 
homet II. entered Constantinople ; soon after the 
Ottoman fleet, consisting of 481 vessels, sailed for the 
harbor of CaiFa. The origin of this hostile dem- 
onstration, was the refusal of the Genoese to recog-> 
nize as prefect a Lieutenant Emerrick nominated 
by the Tartars, according to custom. The personal 
insults, too, to which he felt himself subjected, in 
the pride of the Italians, and in the infidelity shown 
him by his master, who wished to avoid the shed- 
ding of blood, induced him to proceed to Constan- 
tinople, where he felt quite sure of succor. Ma- 
homet the Second seeing the fair path open to him, 
in which he could most justifiably bear the banner 
of the prophet, acceded at once to the proposition 
of Emerrick, who returning home, gathered a large 
9 



146 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section iv. arm y f Turks and Tartars ; and while the vast Ot- 
toman fleet furled their white sails before those 
walls on which they were soon to open a most tre- 
mendous fire, Emerrick's dark hosts, like a cloud of 
locusts, rose over the hills of Caffa. The Genoese 
now in their turn began to feel that they had treat- 
ed too contemptuously their neighbors; and as 
they were aware of the hatred Mahomet bore 
towards the Christians, they knew that overtures 
would be unavailing. On the 1st of June 1475, 
after a severe bombardment, Caffa fell, and Admiral 
Achmet Pacha entered the town to joy in the deso- 
lation he had made, and in that he could create 
among his fallen foes — the most noble of the Geno- 
ese, having finally carried to him in the most sup- 
pliant manner the keys of the place. He immedi- 
jately seized all the slaves, male and female, as well 
as fifteen thousand of the Catholic citizens, whom 
he sent on board his vessels. These he conveyed to 
Constantinople, to be incorporated with the Jannis- 
saries, and the remainder were sent to form a colo- 
ny at Pera, opposite his new and beautiful European 
capital. 

Menghely-Gherai, the most illustrious of all the 
khans of the Crimea, who had fled to Caffa for 
protection, being driven from his throne by his 
younger brother, and remaining a long time in 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 147 

exile, was now reinstated by the Sultan, and reign- Sbction iv - 
ed over this country for thirty six years. 

For three centuries, the crescent gleamed over 
the walls of Theodosia, and for that length of 
time, shut up in the Ottoman grasp, from all that 
foreign commerce she formerly enjoyed, she dwin- 
dled away and became a place only noted for her 
ruins. 

When the Empress Catharine the Second reigned 
in Russia, she carried out some of the plans of 
Peter the Great, by extending the empire till the 
waves of the Euxine washed its shores. Theodosia 
was at first looked upon as the most favorable spot 
on which to erect a commercial town. Barracks 
and other public edifices were built, and a museum 
was established in order to preserve the numerous 
mementos of her former greatness, which were 
daily being brought to light. Her commerce began 
to revive, and it was believed that it would soon be- 
come one of the most thriving settlements in the new 
Russian possessions. But after a few years, Kertsch 
Was decided on as being more favorable to trade, 
and Theodosia was consequently partly depopulat- 
ed, though I was told it had five thousand inhabi- 
tants. There is much here to remind one of Ital- 
ian towns, and few would tire of wandering about 
the majestic ruins, sometimes in hopes of discover- 
ing some new treasure of ancient art, sometimes to 
9* 



148 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

sictiom iv. i 00 k 0U ^ on ^ smooth bay before him, — - climbing 
the hills to get a fairer view of a fair scene, or 
descending into the valleys to watch the motley in- 
habitants who now people them. 

Along the pleasant riviera, there were more edi- 
fices of respectable appearance than I had expected 
to find, for Clarke, in his Travels says there were 
but fifty families here. Along the slopes, too, 
were clustered many little dwellings which might 
be the abodes of very happy hearts. Numerous 
soldiers were passing here and there, and a busy 
population early awake. Twelve large vessels 
floated in the harbor, and two, with sails wide 
spread to a fair wind, were sweeping gracefully 
into port just as their loftiest sails caught the morn- 
ing sun. 

Kertsch. 8th. At the first blush of dawn we journeyed 
towards the equally interesting town of Kertsch. 

For several miles our course lay by the beach. 
The sun was just struggling up through one of 
Claude Lorraine's mists ; a few Tartar peasants were 
wending their way to the village ; and now and 
then a pantalooned and muffled woman, was seem- 
ingly thrown in to make a variety. Some camels 
which at night had been relieved of their loads and 
the degrading yoke, were browsing on the hill side. 
White sails glistened in the bay. The waves which 
ages ago brought here the wealth and genius of 






TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 149 

Greece and Italy, were now idly and partially un- SscTI °* *▼• 
burdened, dashing on our carriage wheels and bath- 
ing our horses' feet, while the village and its decay- 
ing towers opened more picturesquely on our view, 
as we wound along the shore. 

The same beautiful and wide spread steppes, with 
their flocks, shepherds, camels, and gypsey tents, 
were traversed till midday, when we stopped and 
dined. Our repast consisted of crude cabbage 
soup and boiled flour dough balls, served in melted 
butter. They were as hard as Pharaoh's liver, (as 
the Turks would say) and of about the shape and 
size of a gizzard. After a half hour's repose, we 
proceeded as before, and though I had supposed 
that the monotony of the savannas would make the 
journey tiresome, I found it entirely to the con- 
trary. Gentle undulations, with their soft, green 
slopes, occasionally occurred, and were to the eye 
of the traveller as welcome and pleasing in com- 
parison with the plain, as the glaziers of Mount 
Blanc are to the snow-capped hills around it. Here, 
too, was observed the same agreeable peculiarity be- 
fore noted — the absence of all walls and fences which 
seem in other countries to bind up and put in limits 
the great, bright, fair fields, Nature has so luxu- 
riantly spread out and carpeted for all mankind. 
We followed the track of other carriages, but we 



150 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section iv. m igh{; naV e struck off in any direction, so smooth 
and free from impediments was the surface. The 
air, too, had become soft and mild in place of the 
damp and chilly atmosphere we had suffered on 
some previous days, and toward evening a rich, 
golden hue settled on the vast expanse around us, 
bathing it in such splendor that the spirits of Re- 
pose and Beauty seemed to have made it their dwell- 
ing place, or had wrapt their child in this fair man- 
tle of light before laying it down to sleep. 

Soon after leaving the last post, a solitary Turk, 
mounted on a spirited horse, swept across our path 
at right angles, and, without following any road, 
continued his way southward. 
Tartar " An aoul, an aoul" cried our whip ; and, 
with a crack, started off on the plain. In a short 
time we reached the Tartar encampment, and dis- 
mounted before a long row of tents, flanked by as 
many carts. The chief, an aged man, evidently 
much respected, came at once and invited us to his 
domicil. Seating ourselves on the mats, we had 
pipes brought to us, and several kinds of meats and 
drinks. None were very palatable, though in cour- 
tesy we could not refuse them ; one, however, com- 
posed, I should think, of honey and milk, was ra- 
ther agreeable. Many children, — the small ones 
without clothing, — gathered about the aperture or 
door, where also many a manly but rude face gazed 






TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 151 

hospitably upon us. Time, however, pressed, and SECTI0y n 
we could not long enjoy their well-meaning inten- 
tions ; though for one I longed, for novelty's sake, to 
wander with them and live in their smoky and dirty 
tents, till I had learned all of their habits and cus- 
toms. As it was, we took our leave when the vast 
herds that accompanied them were drawing more 
closely about the encampment for repose. The 
women we saw here could hardly be distinguished 
from the men, so brown were their f&ces, so mascu- 
lime w^as their gait, form and costume. The young 
ones wore high, fancy- colored caps, ornamented 
with pieces of tin and shells ; the elderly dames, 
low caps, with a sheep's wool border. Their dress- 
es were made high in the neck, of very narrow 
skirts, and without any flounces ; sleeves tight, an 
evident absence of every species of stays, panta- 
loons of bright colors, and rudely made slippers. 
Their beauty did not detain us a moment. 

A few versts further on, as we approached a gen- 
tle elevation, we passed many stones near the road, 
which, from their position, showed that they had 
once formed the walls of some village that probably 
long ago had passed from the recollection of men 
as its inhabitants had from its firesides. 

As evening came down slowly upon the hills, we 
went slowly up them; and, when twilight had faded 
into the obscurity of night, we descended into the 



152 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section iv. ^ e va j e of Panticapea. pfer ancient tombs arose 
around us like the ghosts of the departed, and stood 
there as they had, perhaps, for two thousand years, 
eloquent monuments of a curious race of people. 

Historical Between Caffa and this place, we passed the 
walls or vallum which had been built at different 
times to separate the peninsular of the Bosporians 
from the country of the Tauri. The line which, 
extended from Arabat on the Azof to Theodosia, a 
distance of forty-five miles, can still be traced, and 
corresponds with the description given of it by 
Strabo. In an account given of these great struc- 
tures, Constantine Porphyrogenetes states, that the 
Sarmatians* occupying the Bospore made war with 
those of the opposite coast respecting the boundary 
of their kingdoms. It happening near Theodosia, 
where a battle was fought in which the Chersonese 
were victorious, they dictated a treaty which was 
assented to by the Bosporians, that the territory of 
the latter should not extend west of the line drawn 
from Caffa to the Azof, and which the wall referred 
to was made to defend. Another war breaking out 
on the same grounds as the former, a similar defeat 
was experienced by the Sarmatians, which induced 
Pharmacus, the king of the Chersonese, to place a 
boundary further eastward, and reduced the Bos- 
porian empire to only forty miles of territory. 
These walls, like those erected by the Romans, and 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 153 

for a similar purpose, are among the most interest- S,CTI0N Iv 
ing objects of the country in which they are traced. 
To return to our valley into which we had des- 
cended: after driving through a long cheerful looking 
street, we landed at what seemed to be a regular 
and good modern built hotel. It overlooked the 
famed Bosporian waters, which besides connecting 
the Azof with the Euxine, formed the beautiful 
harbor of Kertsch, on whose shores we are now 
resting. Being shown up stairs (for we were now 
in a two story house,) we were ushered into a room 
which had a chair, an old table, and an unfurnished 
bedstead. Here we were all expected to lodge, 
sleep, eat, &c, and find our own bedding. Intend- 
ing to remain in this interesting town for some 
days, I could not endure for a moment, the thought 
of being thus incessantly surrounded by the vulgar 
(gentlemen when dressed,) young Georgians, and I 
insisted on what was at first denied to me, — the 
having a room to myself, — and succeeded in obtain- 
ing one, though it was no better furnished than the 
other. The board-bottom of the bedstead, had 
however, a piece of coarse cloth nailed over it; un- 
der which was stuffed a little straw, and covered by 
a single dirty blanket. Contented even with this, 
and the idea that I was to be alone where I could 
write and think, undisturbed, I ordered my tea (with 
some rum and lemon in it, which is a very common 



154 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

sectiow iv. wa y £ p re p ar i n g this beverage, and then wrapped 
myself in my cloak, and laid down to rest. My 
companions in the room had arranged their baggage 
into beds on the floor, and appeared entirely satisfied. 
9th. The light had no sooner broke over this 
ancient city, than I was dressing for an expedition 
among her thousand tumuli. The pleasure, how- 
ever, of being in this interesting place, was not all 
that started me from my bed so early — I wish it 
Fleas. na ^ Deen - The principal exciting cause in this 
instance, were the fleas, who in seeming myriads, 
forsook their haunts, attacking and retreating like 
Spanish bull-fighters in the arena, and might be, 
like a Tartar whip, commended for expedition in 
their business. Five years' seasoning in a fleay 
country in the tropics, I thought had rendered me 
almost indifferent or insensible to their bite, and 
that I should not have, like most travellers, to com- 
plain of this bete, but I was egregiously mistaken, 
for, though I was much fatigued, and had slept for 
several nights on the floor, I found it almost im- 
possible, from the quantity of these little pests, to 
take the slightest comfort ; and I believe, if they 
could have had a little more time, they would have 
thrown me into a fever. All Greece and Italy can- 
not surpass the Crimea in the numerical and physi- 
cal force of its fleas. The hotel where we are, is 
called Bostoflhadanoo, with a skee on to the end of 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 155 

it. Its name is enough to cause people to avoid it. SsCTI(m IV 
I hear, and I hope it is true that there is another 
and better one in the town. 

My vexations did not end with the night. I Domestic] 

Annoyan- 

found there was neither wash-bowl, pitcher, stand, ces. 
mirror, nor bell to ring up either. I now made an 
extra fuss, and got the two first articles, but the 
bowl was so excessively filthy that it could not be 
used, except in the way practised by the natives, — 
simply allow it to catch the water, poured upon the 
hands by a domestic. The consequence was, one 
could not go through the simple process of* wash- 
ing without the presence of a servant. I had one 
of the bowls immediately, thoroughly cleansed, 
and a pitcher of water brought to me with some 
other necessaries the room required, and ordered 
them left there ; but I had to watch them sharply 
or I should have lost them on the entrance of 
the first garcon. 

Domestic difficulties settled, I hurried out to get 
some slight knowledge of a place which for ages, 
has been a kind of romance in the Orient, — a 
fountain of mystery to the unlettered, who have 
heard detached tales of its ancient splendor and 
power, — and a source of infinite desires, hopes and 
pleasures, to the antiquarian, who could here never 
be at a loss for new objects worthy of his study. 

Reaching the street, to the southward, there arose Museum. 



156 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

sictiox iv. a hig}^ abrupt cliff, which appeared like the termi- 
nus of a lofty range of land stretching away into 
the interior. It was surmounted by a temple, 
which attracted my attention, and I turned my steps 
in that direction. A walk of a few moments 
through a well built street, brought me to a. massive 
stone stairway, whose rich and costly design de- 
served a better material than an inferior sandstone. 
I say better material, for now after only a few years 
of exposure, its balustrades and ornamental urns 
are more decayed than some works of art, to be 
seen on the heights above it, which have been in 
existence for twenty centuries. Ascending this, I 
reached an elevation of about two hundred feet, 
where, on an excavated platform, in the side of the 
cliff, which still ascends above it, stands the museum 
of Kertsch. The building though small, shows 
the classic taste of its founders, it being in the form 
of the Parthenon at Athens : its situation too, 
is one of great beauty, looking down over the har- 
bor and the town, and is indeed the genii of the 
place ; for from its striking position, it catches the 
attention of the merchant, the mariner, and the 
peasant, as he climbs the opposing hills, or roams 
the valleys — using only its silence in calling them 
to bring all discovered monuments of antiquity to 
its sacred abode. 

Scenery. Farther than this, there was no direct regular 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 157 

path, so I climbed up the rugged sides till I reached S£CTI0N IV 
fhe summit, on which stood the temple, that first 
drew my attention. It was from this eminence that 
Mithradata, threw into the waves his Xiphanes, 
and from here one of the most enchanting coups- 
d'seil unfolded itself before me, that could stir the 
pulses, but not be described. Tumuli, as far as 
the eye could reach, stood along the highlands, and 
the green grass which grew on their sides, was the 
first object to brighten in the morning sun, and the 
last at evening to wave without a shadow. The 
crimson clouds of the east, which had curtained in 
rich luxuriance the morning couch of Eos, were 
now folding themselves away, but not without 
leaving a tinge of their hues in the smooth water 
which spread like a mirror before me, uniting the 
two famed seas, one on my right, the other on my 
left. Many vessels of many nations, were floating 
quietly in the harbor, and the Greek caique and 
the Turkish sandals were not wanting in this portion 
of the picture. No noise yet came up from the 
town beneath me, but along the road, descending 
into the valley from the interior, were seen numer- 
ous Tartar wagons, footmen and horsemen, pushing 
forward, to be at an early market when the in- 
habitants should awake. 

The temple, was vastly larger than it had ap- Temple, 
peared from below. In fact, it was one dedicated 



158 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section iv. j. Q foe worship of God, and served as a place of 
prayer for the dead, who were often brought here 
to be interred on this beautiful spot. In such a 
morning hour as this, what a strange halo of ming- 
led sadness and patient hope, must have filled the 
soul even of an idle spectator, who could see the 
mourners winding along up the hill, bearing the 
youthful dead, to rest here, amid the tombs of 
thousands of years. I wept, a silent spectator, by 
the grave of an infant, whose fair mother seemed 
desolate hearted, as she descended again to the 
valley. Time can never efface from my memory 
that morning on the hills of Panticapea. 
Return. Recollecting that my companions at the hotel, 
would await me at breakfast, I hurried back. 
After the meal was over, one of them accompanied 
me, in search of an Italian and a Greek to whom I 
had letters of introduction. The former, Mr. Qui- 
quisola, was the Sardinian consul. He received 
me with great kindness, and with much joy, as I 
carried him news of the welfare of friends in his 
native land. The latter a wealthy merchant, Mr. 
Mazane, I found in his counting-room, and some- 
what awkward was our meeting, as he spoke only 
his native language. A clerk who understood a 
little both of Italian and English, was enabled to 
offer to me the hospitalities of his master's mansion, 
and appointed an evening when I should take tea 
with the family. 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 159 

About midday the wind began to blow strongly Secti °* iy - 
from the northward, and by three o'clock it had in- 
creased to a gale. We were watching from our 
windows the heaving of the sea, and the labors of 
the sailors to secure their vessels, when suddenly 
from a Greek brig we saw floating a signal of 
distress. One cable after another had parted, and 
now it was wholly adrift and sweeping towards the 
shore. But it came in contact with a government 
steamer, and we thought would be secured from 
further danger ; but, — we learned afterwards that 
the steamer was under sailing orders, — that it was 
the one we were to go in, and that it only awaited 
the will of a general, bound on an expedition along 
the coast, — much to our surprise, she was cut 
entirely free, and the bowsprit and foretopmast . 
went by the board. There was now no hope of 
saving her, and hundreds of men, women, and 
children, rushed along the quay towards the 
southern beach, where she was sure to strike. We 
all joined the crowd watching with intense anxiety 
the movements of the poor sailors on board. In 
less than an hour she struck heavily on the bottom, 
when the sea made a clean breach over her. The 
men then clung to the rigging. Soon one was seen 
to leap overboard with a rope attached to him. A 
noble spirit animated him and he floated on the 
crest of the waves like a sea-bird. Several of his 



160 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section iy. countrymen who stood on shore, seeing his ap- 
proach, hurried into the breakers, as far as they 
dared, to catch him, and prevent his being carried 
back by the retreating water. The instant they 
seized upon him the breathless anxiety of the 
spectators was relieved, and a shout to his heroism, 
louder than the storm, rang along the shore. One 
by one, all the crew arrived safely, and we returned 
home. The brig was loaded with, grain, and I was 
told would be With her cargo a total loss. It re- 
minded me of a scene on the American coast. 
When making a voyage a few years ago, with Cap- 
tain May hew, we fell in with a brig in distress, 
which we supplied with provisions. That same 
night, she was lost off the Jersey shore, and the 
next morning we saw the sea breaking over her, 
a wreck in the sand. 

10th. This morning I was gratified at meeting 
again here, the distinguished General Soffonoff, who 
with his usual urbanity of manners, spoke of our fu- 
ture greeting in the valley of Georgia. The Sardinian 
consul called on me and we visited together the 
club-house of Kertsch. It has a dancing hall, a 
billiard-room, with drawing-rooms and a reading- 
room. In the latter I found some good newspapers 
and several valuable French periodicals : but the 
greatest pleasure I had this day, was in the visit to 
the royal tomb, which stands in the centre of the 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 161 

great plain, to the northward of the harbor, and SsCTIoy IV 
to another called the golden tomb. For my ride 
to these I was indebted to a beautiful Syriac 
youth, who wore his tasseled cap as jauntily as a 
soldier. He came for me in his Russian drosky, and 
in fifteen or twenty minutes, we found ourselves on a 
lonely road, skirting the sea shore. We continued 
this for several miles, and then struck off on the 
plain, and soon dismounted by a conical mound 
of earth, about forty feet in height and eighty in 
diameter. We climbed at once to the summit. 
Here we found that the earth had been excavated 
and an opening effected into the interior. When 
this was done, and the discovery made that a gigan- 
tic chamber was beneath, a light was probably 
lowered down, which revealed to them the direction 
of the gallery which led to it. On the side, at the 
base, where this passage-way terminated, another ex- 
cavation was made, which soon reached it, and 
must by its unique structure and size, have as- 
tonished the laborers. This gallery, forty paces in 
length, and twenty-eight feet high, has 'a corbelled 
ceiling, and opened into the grand central circular 
chamber, also with a corbelled ceiling, and rising to 
the height of thirty-five feet. The form and oddity 
of the tomb grew out of all disregard to rules of 
art. The stones were of equal size, and well-hewn. 

but they were laid so as to project one over the 
10 



162 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section iv. t ner? till they should meet at the top, and their 
very weight would have tumbled them together if 
in their erection props had not been used, till a 
sufficiency of earth had been thrown on their ex- 
terior surfaces to retain them in their position. I 
was much gratified to see that it had not been 
defaced or injured, except a little, at its entrance, 
which was probably caused by removing the earth, 
and not by design, as an able writer on this sub- 
ject supposes ; for he says, " the government should 
have been " (as though they had not, and the tomb 
had fallen to ruins,) " solicitous to transmit it un- 
impaired to future generations." 
Tombs. From my Greek youth, I received the impres- 
sion that most splendid and valuable articles had 
been found here, but that they had instantly been 
concealed and hurried away to St. Petersburg, in 
order not to excite the peasants to destroy these 
thrillingly interesting monuments in search of treas- 
ures. From better authority I afterwards learned 
that the tomb, unlike every other that had been 
opened, was entirely empty ; it having been rifled, 
it was conjectured, at a very early period. 

A short distance from here is another sepulchral 
chamber, which was discovered by accident. At 
the quarantine station, the government had ordered 
a flag staff to be erected. The laborers, in digging 
the hole for it, suddenly sunk through into a large 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 163 

room, which, on examination, was found to contain Sect10N iv 
a magnificent white marble sarcophagus. This, 
too, had been rifled, and the lid broken, but it was 
with the greatest care immediately removed to 
the museum where it now remains, and is one of 
its most beautiful curiosities. Its sides and ends are 
sculptured into many delicate figures, among which 
were alto-relievo wreaths of flowers supported by 
little cherubs. The massive lid, polished to the 
greatest perfection, has across it several broad, ele- 
vated strips of marble, so carved as to represent 
bands to hold it down. On this, too, are a male and 
female figure, each reclining on the elbow. The male 
is considerably larger than the female, and he has 
his right hand resting on her shoulder as an ex- 
pression of affection. For whom this splendid work 
of art was wrought is not known, for it bears 
neither name nor date. It was however like all 
the other statuary marble found here, doubtless 
brought from Greece, for there is none in the form- 
ation of the Crimea. 

We returned to the town, passed to its opposite ^'j- 6 ^™ 5 
side, and drove up the untraveled sides of the more 
western portion of the high range of land mention- 
ed yesterday, and there hunted up the tomb of gold 
opened in 1841. This is the most interesting of 
any, perhaps, discovered here. In it was found a 
large, wooden sarcophagus, containing a male skel- 
10* 



164 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section iv. e t on? w hi cn wore on the skull a crown of dead 
gold. A wooden target, now in the Cabinet of 
Antiquities of the Bibliotheque National at Paris, 
was taken from the same sarcophagus. It repre- 
sents the contest of a stag and griffin. In an outer 
room of this tomb there was another sarcophagus, 
containing the perfect skeleton of a delicately made 
female. The robe in which she had been, envel- 
oped retained even its color, though its strength 
was gone, and about the fleshless brows and shoul- 
ders there still lay in rich profusion her light brown 
hair. This, with some of the garments and the 
coffin of the male, I saw at the Museum, with hun- 
dreds of other articles which, through the slow roll 
of ages, have lain buried in the tumuli which now 
surround me. The wooden sarcophagus is an ob- 
long, square box, made of innumerable small pieces 
framed together and carved, having its panels and 
some other parts gilded and painted with vermillion 
or ornamented with bronze plates, some of which it 
still retains. In the room where the female was 
found there was also the remains of a child, a 
bronze lamp and some lachrymatories. The crown 
of gold and a golden shield were sent to St. Peters- 
burg, but I A obtained a drawing of the former, as 
also a magnificent pendant to a necklace and a 
golden bridle-bit set with jewels, found in another 
of the tumuli, supposed to be the burial place of 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 165 

some Scythian queen. With the latter too, in con- SE<moy 1Y - 
firmation of this opinion, were found other arti- 
cles of a luxurious toilette — twenty-eight gold 
finger rings, a metallic mirror, a sponge, and gold 
earrings. In another were gold earrings, eighteen 
gold flowers, six earthem pots, cooking utensils, 
black paint, and a little terra cotta statue of a fe- 
male naked to the waist, which the emperor Nico- 
las took away with him when he visited this place, 
and of which I have a drawing. Its form is vo- 
luptuous, but its great peculiarity is the style of 
bonnet it has on ; while another figure, accompany- 
ing it, represents a female without the bonnet, the 
hair being carried up to the top of the head, and 
then bound with a string, then rolled smoothly 
over and done up so as to form a large round tuft. 
I should like, because of their great antiquity, to 
give the drawings of these, as also of a third, with 
most gracefully falling drapery, if I did not know 
that the American ladies generally would consider 
them immodest. 

The most beautiful of all the articles found in 
these tombs, have been carried to Petersburg to 
adorn the rooms of the emperor's hermitage, except 
such as I have mentioned before ; yet the museum, 
which I again visited after my expedition to the 
golden tomb, contains hundreds of priceless objects 
of interest, which really have the effect to hallow 



166 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section iv. ^ an( j ma k e ft }ik e fo e tomb of the Prophet, worthy 
of a long pilgrimage. 

. 11th. Early this morning I was again among 
the tombs, accompanied by the young enthusiastic 
director pro tern, of the museum. No companion 
could have been more agreeable, combining a thor- 
ough knowledge of the early history of the coun- 
try, and a deep love of his duties as steward of the 
government, in prosecuting these explorations. He 
felt deeply the interest any stranger took in his la- 
bors, and spared no pains to make me acquainted 
with the result of his researches, showing and ex- 
plaining every curiosity met with, as well as his 
own private collection of valuable coins, books, &c. 
We climbed the hills, then, like children, ran 
down their steep, grassy sides into the valleys. 
We dived into the tombs of those who, perhaps, 
knew the fishermen of Galilee or felt the trembling 
of the earth when Christ was crucified ; or perhaps 
of those who, at a more remote period listened to 
the cynic Diogenes, or fought under the banner of 
Mithridates the Great, against Pompey. We sat 
on the seat of Mithridates himself and talked of 
the old hero, as though he had been but our own 
grandfather, whose voice yet lingered in our ears. 

In one of the sepulchres we found that its strong 
and well built walls, smoothly covered over with 
plaster about an eighth of inch thick, had been or- 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 167 

narnented by figures of some kind for which blue Seoti °* IY - 
and red paint had been used. The whole, however, 
had been so much defaced, that it was impossible 
to discern their character. Some specimens of the 
plaster were scaled off by me, as I desired to keep 
the bright colors which ornamented them, but I 
can hardly hope to do so, when I consider the jour- 
ney before me. As showing the custom of orna- 
menting the dwellings of the dead, they are to be 
prized. 

Returning along the heights, we descended to 
the museum. I found the two objects which the 
most frequently drew my attention, were the mar- 
ble and wooden sarcophagi, before described. The 
former, the director told me, was believed by some, 
though for what particular reason could not be as- 
certained, to have been made for the remains of 
King Rhametalces, who died about the one hun- 
dred and sixtieth year of the Christian era. Others 
conjectured that it had contained the body of Phar- 
naces, a son of Mithridates Eupator, who reigned 
here from the year 61 B. C. to 8 B. C. 

Another object pointed out as being one of much Statues, 
value, was a colossal draped torso, supposed to be 
of Esculapius, from its resemblance to one of that 
god of medicine, found at Pompeii. The one here, 
was dug from a great depth underground, and not 
far from it was a much disfigured one of Diana. 



168 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section iv. Here, too, was a wreath of gold leaves — a head 
ornament, found in a tomb, said to be of a Queen 
of one of the six Rheskuporis. One of her many- 
other ornaments (now at Petersburg,) of which I ob- 
tained drawings, was an exquisitely wrought, oval 
bracelet, the ends terminating in extremely beauti- 
ful female busts. With this was a necklace and a 
pair of castanets. The museum abounds, also, in 
more useful articles, but recently brought to the 
light, — huge bronze kettles, and earthen jars, some 
containing large quantities of human bones. 

No one can look on these objects without the 
most intense desire to know the motives and feel- 
ings actuating the surviving, in placing with the 
deceased those useful and ornamental articles which 
probably belonged to them in life. Our Indi- 
ans bury with the dead their bows and arrows, 
that they may have them in the far off hunting- 
ground to which they go. Was it for such a mo- 
tive that these people laid in the tombs of their de- 
parted friends the rich ornaments which once deck- 
ed the fair, breathing forms — the bracelet that 
once circled the delicate arm — the jewels which 
graced the ears, and the curious necklaces which 
girded the round, white throat, and hung down 
richly upon the bosom, telling often by its heavings, 
how welcome to the heart was the story listened 
to ? Or was it in the hope that these loved ones 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 169 



Section IV 



might sleep more soundly while having around 
them the pleasing bijouterie with which, day after The 
day, and evening after evening, they had adorned 
themselves, courting the genii of the toilette, till 
the endless spells in its store had each been made 
to contribute to the sum of those undefinable 
charms which fascinate all who gaze upon them, 
unconscious of the innumerable disappointments 
the enchantress may have endured — the weary- 
ing experiments, and long mirror consultations 
— the coalescing, separating and re-arranging 
which resulted in that consummate embodiment of 
taste so effective when combined with grace and 
beauty % Or was it from a natural repugnance in 
the breasts of the surviving to wearing the depart- 
ed ones' ornaments — reminding the possessors of 
their mortality, and seeming to link them too close- 
ly with the grave \ Or was it that there was some- 
thing too hallowed in the reliques which once deck- 
ed the now sainted forms, to be allowed to come 
again in contact with life's glare, carelessness, 
and gaiety ] 

On some of the monuments there would seem to Monu- 
ments. 

be a desire evinced to continue into the unknown 
land, in some form or other, the charm of corres- 
pondence. On one, the deceased is represented in 
basso relievo, sitting in a chair in her common cos- 
tume, while the husband, as if from a journey, 



170 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 






section iv. r jd es U p an ^ sa l u tes her, saying : " I wish you good 
health." Another favorite subject appeared to be a 
woman raised on one elbow, lying in bed, a small 
table at the side on which are several bottles, the 
husband sitting near in a chair. 

In the museum are some headless marble lions, 
massive richly wrought tops to sarcophagi, pieces 
of shafts, capitals, &c. When one remembers that 
all these must have been brought from a foreign 
country, he wonders about the wealth, the time, 
the ships that transported them, and the luxury of 
that age. 

On the large jars found, the favorite scenes rep- 
resented are bacchanalian. Very chubby Bacchi, 
grotesque fauns, nude females, some in immodest 
attitudes, seem to have occupied much of the atten- 
tion, if not to have tasked the skill, of the work- 
men of those ancient times, 
uriosities To dwell on the curiosities of a museum I am 
aware is quite unpardonable, but when one can fix 
his eyes on these rich and strange objects, and can 
place his foot in the very tomb which but yesterday 
yielded them up after having, for long, dark ages 
concealed them in its gloomy precincts, a new emo- 
tion swells his heart, which no vision of his fancy 
could have produced at his fireside. To-day, (the 
director has just informed me in his visit to my 
room this evening), a new tumulus has been opened, 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 171 

and in it the body of a man found standing upright S£CTI0W IV 
and with him many copper coins of rare value — 
several of which were kindly given to me, and 
which, with others I have collected, will be deposit- 
ed with one of the societies of New York. What 
treasures the earth around here will yet yield, no 
one can imagine; but hardly a week passes in 
which something or other is not discovered to add 
to the knowledge and happiness of all mankind. 

13th. Kertsch is the present Russian name of Kertsch. 
this new town, built on the site of the ancient 
Panticapseum. It contains, I am told, twelve thous- 
and inhabitants. The streets are good, the shops 
well supplied with merchandize and the houses 
generally are neat. Society, though limited, is 
agreeable. The prince, who governs here, is a very 
affable man ; and his wife is one of the most beau- 
ful and fascinating women of the day. She is de- 
cidedly the belle of the town, though there are 
some extremely pretty Greek and Russian ladies, 
whose kindness I should not forget. 

The letter I brought to Mr. Mazane, introduced 
me to his very lovely family, with whom I passed a 
portion of two or three evenings. It was only 
through an interpreter, however, that I was enabled 
to converse with them, for they spoke only their 
native language and Russian; but the thousand 
questions they had to ask about America, — I being 



172 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

CTI0N IV - the only one of that country they had ever seen — 
the interest madame took in my welfare, manifested 
in her solicitude to know if I was well prepared 
with clothing and other necessaries for my journey, 
and if I had a good room at the hotel and was 
comfortably situated there — the inquiries about 
my friends and my home, soon attached me to them 
and made the time pass pleasantly away. The 
daughter added not a little to the entertainments, 
for the family being wealthy, she had been well 
educated, — had a piano and played on it with skill. 
She was timid as a fawn, and went to the instru- 
ment with reluctance, and her sweet voice trembled 
as she sang. But little did I expect in this distant 
land to listen again to that exquisite prayer in 
Norma which had mingled, as before stated, with 
my last recollections of Italy and my first of Rus- 
sia. The young Greek Girl had voluntarily chosen 
it, and it could have gratified no one more than it 
did myself. 

During the early part of the evening tea was 
brought and served without milk, but with slices of 
lemon. The mother showed to me some of her 
fine dresses, and on a sofa in the room she kept, 
apparently for display, her rich furs, which served 
ostensibly, to make the seat more comfortable. She 
is considerably above the middling height, finely 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 173 

formed, and has lineaments of great beauty. The S * JII0X IV - 
daughter, though graceful and affable, is not 
pretty. 

The early history of this ancient capital of the Early 

History. 

Bosporic kingdom is so remote, that it is involved, 
as yet, in such obscurity, that nothing certain ap- 
pears to be known of it, the country or its rulers, 
till the formation of the second dynasty, com- 
menced by Spartacus the First. It is, however, sup- 
posed by some, that this monarchy was founded in 
the fifth century B. C, by a people from Mytilene. 
We will pass eight sovereigns, and come to Spar- 
tacus the Third, whose ambitious, cruel, yet sensi- 
tive nature, particularly signalized him in the his- 
tory of the nation. Desirous of extending his 
power, and ennobling his name, Spartacus sought 
to ally his family with that of Hecateus, a neigh- 
boring king. The throne of Hecateus was rocking 
to and fro, and Spartacus deemed it a favorable op- 
portunity to offer his support, basing it upon the 
condition that the obliged king should marry his 
daughter. This was not all. Hecateus was first 
to put to death the wife he already had, before the 
ceremony could take place. The bloody deed ac- 
complished, and the lovely child wedded to a mur- 
derer, Spartacus doubtless felt for a moment that 
his schemes had succeeded so well, that he should 
be envied and happy. A war, however, succeeded, 



174 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

secwom iv. ^ which h e i 0S fc hig favorite son, and which, with 
an awakened consciousness of his crimes, soon put 
an end to his own career and his life. 
Mithri- Passing by ten more kings we come to the great 

QHsBSa 

Mithridates, whose history is full of thrilling in- 
cidents, and whose power was for many years a 
barrier even to Roman arms, and whose death in 
this place, where I now write, is one of the most 
important and interesting events chronicled by 
historians. 

Mithridates, king of Pontus, on the southern 
shores of the Black sea, during the tranquility 
which reigned around him, extended his conquests 
over the Tauride, and the coast of Circassia. Dur- 
ing his absence, the Romans, his most dire enemies, 
invaded his country. He returned and defended 
it, but was finally defeated by Pompey, and fled. 
In this hour of his misfortunes, a few did not 
desert him. Among the number were three hun- 
dred of his old officers and soldiers, and his beauti- 
ful and faithful mistress, Hypsicratea, who dis- 
guising herself in male costume, and bearing arms, 
was thus more free from molestation and more able 
to defend him whom she loved. 

Arriving at Panticapseum, he found his son whom 
he had left on the throne, in rebellion. Pardoning 
him, he set about raising an army to invade Italy. 
Circumstances seemed now all turned against him, 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 175 

Section IV 



and another of his sons proved treacherous, in- 
fluencing the soldiers to follow his example. Over- 
whelmed by these double misfortunes, he shut him- 
self up with his two favorite daughters Mithradata, 
and Missa, brides to the kings of Egypt and of 
Cyprus, who chose to die with their father rather 
than live slaves to the Romans. The loss of his 
throne, the death of his friends, the destruction of 
one army and the desertion of another, preyed 
upon his noble and lofty spirit ; but the ingratitude 
of his sons crushed his heart. I can imagine him, 
like Lear, defying the storm which beat upon his 
defenceless head, insensible to all, save the pangs 
that filial ingratitude had excited within his breast. 
He ascended the lofty battlements, overlooking the 
very spot, on which I now write, and as he stood, 
the dignity of age, the majesty of over half a 
century of sovereignty seemed more than ever to 
endow his manly form with divine superiority ; and 
as the shouts of the rebelling soldiers, echoed along 
the walls, and reverberated in the hills, he lifted 
up his war-worn hands and prayed to the gods: 
" May my son one day know the sufferings of a 
father over an ungrateful child." He then took b. C, 61. 
poison, and soon after expired. His son sent his 
body to the Roman general, who had it most hon- 
orably interred at Sinope, in Pontus, amid the tombs 
of his ancestors. Thus ended the career of one of 



176 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 



sectiow iv. foe greatest warriors of antiquity. In learning few 
have surpassed him. He spoke twenty-two dif- 
ferent languages, conversing with that number of 
ambassadors in their native tongue. His wealth, 
too, rivalled that of Croesus. It took the . com- 
missioners the space of a month to take an in- 
ventory of his valuables, among which were two 
thousand cups of onyx, set in gold. 

The people of Kertsch, generally believe that 
Mithridates was buried on a lofty hill about a 
league from here, bordering the road we posted on 
our way from Theodosia. The Tartars call the 
place Altyn Oho; and as the fame of the great 
sovereign's wealth has been handed down to them, 
they have a tradition that it was buried with him 
and is guarded by a beautiful virgin, who sits here 
amid the ruins of the tomb and spends the long 
night in lamentations. They call her the star of 
the hill, and when benighted travellers have seen 
the light of her thin white robes, and her fair 
transparent form floating over Altyn Obo, it is said 
they lose their reason but are always happy. 

Many of the inhabitants of Kertsch of Greek 
descent, having intermarried with the Tartars, 
now speak a patois. The Russians regard both 
with contempt. On returning from an excur- 
sion to the hills, I stopped at a Tartar hut. It 
was occupied by a middle aged woman, who sat on 



Tartar 
Hut. 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 177 

the floor picking wool. She allowed her face to SgCTI0 * 1Y - 
remain uncovered, and on being asked the reason 
said: "that persons twenty-five or thirty years of 
age — supposing by that time they had lost the 
power to attract or fascinate any of the male sex, 
and consequently could not arouse any jealousy in 
their husbands — were allowed to remove those 
white bands and veils with which young girls were 
obliged to conceal themselves on the approach of 
all strangers ; for the face, being the mirror of the 
soul, should not be consulted by every body, — in 
fact by no one except the liege lord, who alone, is 
entitled to understand it." She had on a common 
gown, a sheepskin jacket, leather boots and pan- 
taletts. On her head was a white handkerchief, 
beneath which her black, braided hair fell down 
over her bosom. There were two rooms, each 
furnished with a kind of bed, — one was quite long, 
made up on boards supported by some boxes. As 
the pillows were placed at each end, we suppose 
that the husband and wife slept with only their 
feet together. This may have been owing to the 
narrowness of the bed or the warmth of the 
weather, while it answered the purpose of con- 
tenting the suspicious Mahometan; for as long as 
he could feel the feet of his gentle spouse, he 
would be sure she could not be wandering away 

with another's. The bed was covered with a dark 
11 



178 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section iv. ^q^ W oolen cloth, ornamented with a red worsted 
braid, sewn on by the very fingers now occupied in 
picking the wool. Overhead were two long poles, 
running parallel to each other, across the room. 
Over those was a white cloth and on it the ward- 
robe of the female occupant. Two holes in the 
wall about a foot square, admitted light and air, 
and were not, as usual, covered over with sheets of 
paper. 

As we were leaving, the daughter arrived. She 
scuffed along by us with her little dirty feet in 
slippers, and her face so enveloped that we saw 
nothing of it, except two very merry eyes and well 
arched eyebrows. Her gait was graceful, as is that 
of most all of these unlaced children. 

13th. This morning I was informed by an 
officer of the estaffette of General Bourbehr, that 
the government steamer would leave in the after- 
noon for the coast of Circassia, and that I would 
be received on board, and conveyed to Redout 
Kale, their last southern port, without any expense 
to myself — a courtesy the General is allowed to ex- 
tend to travellers, though these boats do not carry 
passengers, being strictly steamers of war. This 
renewed kindness of the government, convinced 
me that all I had heard about the opposition of 
Russians to the introduction of foreigners, was 
wholly false. 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 179 

I immediately called on, and bade farewell to my Section 1Y 
few but kind friends, and prepared for a new por- 
tion of my journey, which seems daily to increase 
in interest. M. Mazane gave me a letter of intro- 
duction to a relative of his in Redout-Kale, and had 
a large package of crackers and cheese prepared, 
which he said I should require on the boat, as the 
dinner and supper were the only meals served pub- 
licly, — the officers and passengers carrying their 
own tea, sugar, crackers, etc., which the servants 
prepared for them individually, morning and even- 
ing, as required. 



10* 



SECTION V. 



Section V. 



About midday, in company with the Georgians, 
?oas[ n * to °k a sma U boat, and went on board. The 
steamer is called Bayet the strong, and was built in 
England. At about half past five o'clock, we were 
under weigh for the eastern coast of the Black Sea ; 
and I took my leave, with lingering looks, of one 
of the most interesting portions of the globe, won- 
dering why it had never been visited by our Ameri- 
can travellers. Night was gathering her misty 
mantle around the thousand tumuli, rising above 
the distant hills, and dotting the plain on our left, 
before we were willing to leave the deck and detach 
our gaze from those ancient spots over which bar- 
barism had spread ages of night, but which are yet 
to yield lights which shall illumine volumes. 
A Circas- On board I found new objects of interest, — nu- 
merous officers and soldiers of the Russian " army 
of the Caucasus," so called, going to the different 
forts along the coast ; and, huddled together on 
deck, numerous Turks, Tartars, Circassians, whom 
the government seemed desirous to conciliate, by 



sian. 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 181 

generously granting them a free passage. Among SBgnoy Y - 
them was an occasional poor woman or girl, who, 
with her companions, would be obliged to remain 
on the uncovered deck, however inclement the 
weather might be. . A young man in the crowd 
attracted my attention, not only by his rather pecu- 
liar form, but by his dress, and a kind of lofty defi- 
ance with which he gazed about him. " That is 
our enemy," said a Russian officer who came up to 
me, " but you see he is friendly now ; let us go and 
talk to him." We approached him, and the Russian 
commanded, or rather requested him to show us 
more of his costume, for his body was enveloped in 
a short cloak (bonrka), made of a very shaggy, thick 
cloth, and fastened with a leather thong at the 
throat, while his head was covered with a pointed 
drab-colored hood, with long ends, sufficiently long 
to pass under the chin and tie behind the neck. 
He instantly threw open his cloak and allowed us 
to examine his dress. He had on a long, drab, 
sack coat, which, having no buttons, was fastened 
around the waist by a handsome narrow belt, which 
also supported a brace of pistols and a long Circas- 
sian silver-mounted, ivory-handled knife. His shirt, 
waistcoat and coat being without collars, his long, 
sinewy neck was much exposed. On each breast 
were sewed a row of ivory-headed cartridges, which 
carried the powder and ball, and were ornamental 



182 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

SECTIQJi v as well as useful. On his head, beneath his hood, 
he had a round-topped cap, with a wide border of 
long, black, wavy wool, which, mixing with his 
hair, hung about his high forehead, and nearly 
reached his shoulders. His pantaloons were of a 
yellow color, full, and drawn with a string about the 
waist. On his feet were shoes, fastened by thongs. 
He was tall and slim, but muscular, and his shoul- 
ders had that fall which is peculiar to a woman's 
form, but, nevertheless, is said to be common among 
the male portion of the Circassians. He responded 
with dignity to the rather authoritative tone of the 
Russian, while his large, full eyes seemed lighted 
with the lofty aspirations of his soul, and the nerv- 
ous working of his hands betrayed an inquietude 
which would have manifested itself in a different 
shape, had he met in his native mountains this now 
safe foe. 

Passen- When the hour of retirement came, these deck 

ffcrs. 

passengers huddled together on the top of their 
baggage ; and, as they lay down, men, women and 
children together, — most of them having on these 
sheep-skin jackets, — they did not appear unlike a 
flock of sheep gathered in a fold. There was no 
room under deck for them, no awning, no covering. 
The air was chilly, and, had it rained, their discom- 
forts must have been serious. 
Tea. At an early hour we retired to the cabin. Here 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 183 

I was amused at the little teapots paraded about S£CTI0N v - 
the various tables, where each of the officers, on 
his own private account, was taking tea, as I 
had been informed was the custom. My Georgian 
colonel had not neglected the necessary articles, so 
his teapot and my crackers and cheese were soon in 
requisition. We did not, however, do much justice 
to them, for we had all dined together at an excel- 
lent cafTe, before coming on board. This reminds 
me of an incident which shows the principles of the 
young man with whom I am travelling. When 
dinner was over, I asked what was to pay. The 
elder of the sons said, fifty copeks. Not having 
exactly that sum, I handed him a hundred, the 
half of which he paid for my dinner, and the other 
half very coolly put in his pocket. He will not re- 
fer to it again, for I had the same experience w&th 
his brother ; yet, they are kind, and their father is 
very attentive to all my wants. The young men 
have in their manners a mixture of politeness 
(when it is convenient) and coarseness. They do not 
hesitate to take my journal from me to read at any 
time they like ; and they use my hair brushes when- 
ever they find them. 

Supper was served at nine. When the general 
entered from his private cabin, all arose and stood 
till he had seated himself at the head of the table. 
The same respect was shown to him when he retir- 



184 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

Sscnow y - ed. General Bourbehr is a handsome man, of fair, 
ruddy complexion, and appears only about forty 
years of age. If you find a man in a high office 
here, you may well pay respect to him, for you may 
be sure he merits it. General Bourbehr is affable, 
but penetrating, extremely active, intelligent, brave 
and gallant, and these qualities alone have won him 
his elevated position. The rich epaulettes, and the 
large double chain of gold thread which he hangs 
from his shoulder, across his breast, are the badges 
of his rank which he seems never to lay aside. 

At midnight, the few berths being occupied, we 
stretched ourselves on the floor with but little un- 
robing, and one of us was soon asleep. 

The En- 14th. This morning the chief engineer came to 

gineer. 

me, and apologized for having neglected to offer to 
me a berth in his state room, which he had prepar- 
ed on hearing that I was coming on board, for, 
besides being a kind, good-hearted Scotchman, he 
was pleased with the idea of having some one with 
whom to talk English ; but just before the steamer 
left, a lady going to join her husband at one of the 
forts on the coast, came on board, and considering 
that she had a better claim to his attentions than 
myself, he resigned his room to her. She had with 
her a Circassian slave, a sweet, delicate little girl of 
some ten or twelve years of age, who, with many 
others, had been taken by the Russians in the con- 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 185 

quest of one of the villages of her people, and had SECTIOtr v 
been given to this lady, under security that she 
should be well treated, and be allowed to marry 
when she could do so respectably. Her very pale 
complexion and slender form, her black hair and 
calm, melancholy look, invested her with peculiar 
interest, though she was not beautiful. 

Landing: once in Glasgow, I was robbed on the Scotch Li- 

. . berality. 

Bromilaw. Relating the circumstance at the din- 
ner table of the George Hotel, a gentleman who 
sat opposite me said : " Sir, I have not the honor 
of your acquaintance, but if you are in want of 
money I will supply you, and I wish you to take 
as much as you require, with all the frankness 
with which I offer it." Being an entire stranger 
to me, his kindness almost deprived me of the pow- 
er to thank him, for in nine cases in ten, a man 
under such circumstances, would require the aid of 
some friend, who perhaps might not be at hand ; 
but I had already written to Liverpool for funds. 
On landing a few years since in Santa Cruz, ill 
with a fever, a Scotchman, a Mr. Orr, came and 
took me to his house and took care of me till I 
was well. Now, a third time in a strange country, 
a Scotchman came forward and volunteered his ser- 
vices to make me comfortable. I could not but be 
struck with his kindness, and more so as it recalled 
these other events, He said the lady would be on 



186 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

S * CTI0N v " board but one day more, and then I should have the 
best of accommodations. His name is Edmonds, 
and he seems to be highly esteemed by all on board 
as a gentlemanly and scientific man. 

Colonel Carganoff found us on deck, and I was 
amAnre" introduced to Lieutenant Anrep, one of the neatest 
and most gentlemanly officers I have yet seen. He 
passed most of his childhood in the palace of the 
emperor, and, with the czar's children, was often in 
his presence. He speaks of him with great affec- 
tion. 

Lieutenant Anrep, understanding English tolera- 
bly well and desirous of learning more, and possess- 
ing evidently noble, generous and manly feelings, 
expresses his most ardent desire to make my jour- 
ney pleasant. I introduced the subject of the 
little Circassian girl, and he immediately took me 
to her and entered into conversation with her, and 
interpreted to me her rrplies to his questions. She 
spoke without much timidity, but an extra pallor 
whitened her cheeks, and her dark eyes dilated as 
an occasional vision of the scenes she had pass- 
ed through in becoming a captive, flashed across 
her youthful memory. She seemed so delicate, 
that I thought she rather needed the service of the 
young mistress, than fit to bestow attentions, though 
the lady was amiable and pleasing, and was never 
otherwise than gentle towards her little slave. 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 187 

Among many other questions the Lieutenant asked 6ECTIoy ^ 
her, was one which would induce her to express a 
desire, if she had any, to return to her former 
home; but she said that she was contented, and 
did not wish ever to return. She will die young, 
for there is a pensiveness and a depth of feeling in 
her expression, which will not find sufficiency of 
sympathetic food in our rude world to sustain her. 

Our boat was anchored last night in the gulf of 
Taman, which we reached by a south easterly 
course from the Kertsch, crossing the Cimmerian 
Bosporus. The fame of the naval battles it had 
witnessed could not keep us awake. I had long 
desired to visit this island of Taman, and had 
hoped that we should be delayed here a suffi- 
cient time to see something of its antiquities, but 
at early light we were again under weigh. The 
little town of Taman situated on the southern side 
of the gulf is supposed by Clark and others to oc- 
cupy the site of Phanagoria, though Pallas thinks 
this old Greek name is improperly applied to it. 
Be this as it may, many interesting inscriptions on 
marble and rich fragments of sculpture have been 
found here buried in the sand, and sufficient out- 
lines of buildings, fortress, &c., to show that it 
was once a place of wealth and importance. A 
little silver coin which Clark obtained went far to 
establish his opinion of its being Phanagoria. He 



188 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

SBmoy v - says it was found in or neai\Taman, and is a medal 
of that place, of great antiquity, bearing on one 
side the letters <PANA, and is the only one known. 
Since his time, in the great number of coins which 
have been exhumed, doubtless some others of the 
kind have been obtained. The fortress here, and 
the Stanitza are occupied by the Cossacks of the 
Black Sea. 
Fort Returning westward through the gulf, we doub- 

Anapa. 

led a point of land opposite the battery of Alexan- 
drovski on the Tauride coast, then steered to the 
south, and then south-east, along the Asiatic coast, 
and in a few hours were anchored off Anapa. 

This was one of the strongest and most impos- 
ing towns held by the Turks on the Black Sea, and 
was of vital importance to the Circassians ; for the 
latter found here a ready market for their females, 
in exchange for ammunition and the means of car- 
rying on their wars with the Russians. The women 
destined to fill the harems of Constantinople were 
brought here by their fathers and brothers, or came 
voluntarily, elated by the prospect of benefiting 
their condition. The prices obtained for them de- 
pended very naturally on their youth and beauty, 
— the latter qualification embracing particularly a 
form voluptuously developed, and for which they 
are usually remarkable. 

While the Turks held this place, the Russians 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 189 

were convinced it would be impossible to subdue S£CTI0K v - 
the Circassians, and, in 1828, they resolved on 
taking it. A fleet of thirty-two vessels, under Ad- 
miral Greig, an Englishman ; and a land force, un- 
der Prince Meustchikow, were put in motion ; and, 
after a fearful struggle and a siege of about three 
months, they succeeded in the object of their expe- 
dition. The loss on the part of the invaders was 
immense ; " For," said one of the officers to me, 
{; the Turks in fortified places fight with incred- 
ible energy, though in the field they display but 
little." 

The situation of Anapa is on table-land, backed 
by abrupt cliffs, and protected by a wall. Its com- 
mercial importance has declined by the will of its 
present incumbents. Its harbor is not remarkably 
safe ; but this evil was partially remedied by the 
ancients, who built a long break-water into the sea, 
a considerable part of the foundations of which can 
yet be seen. The appearance of the town from the 
bay is not very attractive ; but it is an interesting 
place from the associations one must necessarily at- 
tach to it, and as standing like a sentinel at the 
gate of a vast prison. 

To how many thousands of Circassian maidens 
has this been the bright surveying point of a brilli- 
ant destiny ! To how many, at least, has it appear- 
ed so, when, after traversing the long, rugged ra- 



190 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 



section y. y^s f the Caucasus, they have reached the sum- 
mit of these neighboring heights and have gazed 
with throbbing breasts on the fair city below them ! 
The vision of their childhood, the dreams of their 
girlish days, the aspirations of their riper years, 
were here about to have a form, a tangibility, a 
reality ; — they were to pass from a state of servi- 
tude, dependence, and, perhaps, poverty, to a life of 
splendid ease, of enviable independence, luxury and 
love. Their bright eyes brightening with these 
happy thoughts, their beauty was enhanced; and 
few were those who were not bettered by the 
change. It would, however, be extravagant to say 
that none were disappointed. Some, doubtless, trust- 
ing by their charms to become the " light of the ha- 
rem," the mother of a sultan ; to be bedecked with the 
costliest jewels and wrapped with the richest robes, 
have rated their fascinations too high, and found 
themselves but the domestic servants of some miser- 
ly crones, who, while they made the arduous tasks 
of their gentle captives repay them for their cost, 
begrudged it while they toiled. Some, too, whom 
God created with nervous temperaments, and en- 
dowed from birth with refined, sensitive, delicate 
feelings, (and there are such by nature among 
every people) — led from their poor but happy 
hearth stones, and from the affectionate care of 
parents, believing that the world was all bright, 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 191 

and that the smiles and caresses of strangers would SECTIoy y 
repay them for the sundering of the ties of home, — 
finding not a shadow of those warm and ardent 
sympathies, of which their young souls were full, 
but encountering the cold, chilling realities of life, 
with which the mass by adaptation are to com- 
bat; — some too, I say, thus endowed, doubtless 
have welcomed their premature graves, literally 
made desolate-hearted. 

Every one will naturally ask, if this traffic has F emale 
ceased. As far as Anapa and all other Russian 
ports are concerned I am authorised to say it has. 
Yet I am aware that the transportation of Cir- 
cassian maidens to Constantinople is a thing of 
almost daily occurrence and cannot be restrained. 
Several hundred, on their way to the great capi- 
tal, have been captured within a few years. These 
are probably a very small portion of the number 
who embarked. They were taken in Turkish 
vessels — the Circassians having none of their 
own — and were distributed as convenience dic- 
tated. 

In destroying this trade, the Russians have only 
one object in view, though in their policy there 
may appear a sublime virtue — the suavis of hu- 
manity and religion ; for it is generally supposed 
that these girls thus sold into slavery, (as it is 



192 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section v. C alled.,_) accept their bonds with the same anguish 
of heart as do the negroes of Africa ; — that in 
going to Constantinople they remain Mahometans, 
whereas if they are taken by the Russians they 
will more readily become members, — or their 
children will, — of the Greek church. 

The fact is, this bondage referred to above, 
and with which we associate all that is. abject, 
degrading and heart-rending, in reality is divested 
of such features, and is in truth the fairest vision 
which floats before the imagination of these youth. 
The parents look forward to the time when their 
children shall be purchased and settled in Con- 
stantinople with precisely the same feelings, hopes, 
and anticipations, as the New England farmer 
and his family look on the promising son, who 
goes to some great capital to become a merchant, 
and rich man. The Caucasian parents have, too, 
the same reasons for releasing their children, as 
those in America, who, though sprung from in- 
different sources in the country, have made for 
themselves wealth and a name in the cities ; 
the former, at various times, having been raised 
to the highest posts in the Ottoman empire. The 
mothers of the Sultan, and of the admiral of the 
Turkish fleet, are Caucasian slaves, and they re- 
ceive all the honors due to their present exalted 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 193 

station. I shall have occasion, doubtless, to refer SBCM0 * v 
to this subject again, after I have seen more of 
this remarkable people, in their own homes. 

That the Russians save these captives from 
Mahometanism is true, and this doubtless would 
receive the highest commendation from the whole 
Christian world ; but in other respects, I cannot be- 
lieve their condition is improved, though my most 
worthy little friend, Lieutenant Anrep, assured 
me, that of all those taken from the Turks, very 
few desired to return to their own homes, not- 
withstanding the offer was made to them ; and 
they would have been allowed to go had they 
expressed such a wish. 

The policy of the Russians is — and it is wholly 
justifiable — to destroy this traffic so pleasing to 
the Turks, who, in exchange for the fair commo- 
dity, supply the Caucasians with the arms and 
ammunition by which they protract the struggle 
with their Muscovite enemy. Were it not for this 
never-failing and very lucrative branch of trade, 
the means they now possess of prolonging inter- 
minably the war with Russia would soon cease, 
for their other resources are extremely limited. 

After about four hours' stay at Anapa, our 
paddle-wheels were again in motion. We con- 
tinued along the coast everywhere lifting up its 
12 



J94 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

suction v. bugged mountain barrier, as difficult and fatal to 

pass, as its nature is indicative of defiance. 

On the L a t e in the afternoon we approached the corn- 
Rocks. > 1J - 

modious harbor of Novracisk, where there is ano- 
ther Russian fortress, under whose guns we in- 
tended to pass the night. At six o'clock, however, 
the weather growing thick, the boat, under full 
head way, struck a rock. The bow rose upon it 
about two feet and remained fast. The shock was 
great, and the consternation which seized the pas- 
sengers for a moment, painful, — some believing 
that the bottom was stove in and that we should 
soon go down, others that we should soon go up, 
for they thought the boiler would burst. Some 
crossed themselves, some ran for their arms, some 
exclaimed Allah ! Lieutenant Anrep was in fault, 
for he had command of the boat, and stood at the 
time on the wheel-house. He had not neglected 
his duty, but had undertaken to pass outside of 
a buoy, and thus fixed us in a most disagreeable 

— and had a storm come on — in a most dangerous 
position. It was a sad time for him. The general, 
whose good opinion he desired — the man who 
held almost the lives of the officers in his hands 

— was to find that a seeming unpardonable neg- 
ligence had occurred, from which an aggravating 
detention, perhaps the loss of the vessel, would 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 195 

accrue. He felt all this, and when the general S£CTt0W v 
appeared on deck, stood pale and abashed. Bour- 
behr made inquiries about the accident, and when 
he learned how it happened, so great was his 
regard for this young officer, that he merely said, 
" Doubtless he feels badly enough without my re- 
primanding him." He knew the person of whom 
he spoke and he judged rightly, and by his gene- 
rosity in sparing him so great mortification, at- 
tached the lieutenant to him for ever. Anrep 
overheard the remark, and immediately came and 
told me of the kindness of his superior, and ex- 
pressed his deep obligations. 

Within an hour's sail of the town, we were now 
detained. The engine was still in order, and I 
supposed soundings would be immediately made, 
kedge anchors carried out aft, and all hands put 
to work with double blocks and at the windlass, 
the wheels reversed, &c., to try and get her off at 
once. But to my astonishment nothing was done, 
except that a Russian man-of-war, which lay at the 
head of the bay, was signalised to send down 
assistance. It now became dark, and guns were 
fired and blue lights burned, that the position of 
the steamer might be known ; but as it was late, 
no relief was sent. Another very significant move, 
however, was made by the governor of the town, 

which indicated the state of affairs. 
12* 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

80WO * v " As soon as it was known at the garrison that 
we were on the rocks, a strong detachment of Cos- 
sacks was dispatched to encamp on the shore 
nearest to us, to prevent our being attacked in the 
night by the Circassians, who never leave an 
opportunity of this kind unimproved, as the Rus- 
sians have experienced to their sorrow ; for how- 
ever friendly the natives of this region may pretend 
to be, their real feelings are too well understood 
by the government to leave a vessel thus aground 
without a force sufficient to repel any attack that 
might be made by such a body as could be hastily 
gathered in the neighboring mountains. 

I did not myself realise or feel that there was 
any danger, and if there had been no armed guard 
on the shore I should have gone to sleep without 
any apprehensions; for the rugged heights around 
us looked as if uninhabited, unless it was by wild 
beasts or the genii of rocks and woods. At this 
time their bases only, were visible, for vast folds of 
the most beautifully light and silvery clouds which 
ever waved over the earth had descended on their 
tops, as if intended by Him who veiled Sinai, as a 
symbol: — that He would overshadow with His 
hand, and curtain about with His clouds, and veil 
from intrusive gaze, the homes of a suffering peo- 
ple. That portion, on one side, which we could 
see here, was composed of hills and valleys succeed- 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

ing each other at short, regular intervals ; the S£CTI0N Y - 
former rising abruptly from the very water. The 
Cossacks had lighted their fires on the beach when 
we went below to rest. 

15 th. This morning I somewhat changed my 
opinion in regard to the danger to be apprehended 
from the Circassians ; for I was called early on deck 
to see a body of them — perhaps fifty or more — 
gathered on the western shore about a mile distant. 
I took the glass and beheld one of those strangely 
pleasing, picturesque groups of men, which are 
sometimes thrown into paintings, but are seldom 
looked on in their reality. The company had dis- 
mounted from their horses, and still holding their 
bridles, were talking together. Occasionally one 
would stroll out from the rest, and stand and look 
off towards us, doubtlessly praying for our further 
ill luck ; and had a storm come up, and the boat 
thumped to pieces (as she would have done if the 
wind had shifted and blown strongly from the 
southward) their desires would have been realised, 
and their gratification complete. They all appeared 
like tall, splendidly formed men. Each had his gun 
swung on his back, and a silver-mounted ivory- 
handled knife hanging to his belt. Their long 
drab, well fitting frocks, their black-bordered 
caps, their glittering arms, their stately carriage, 
gave them an extremely interesting appearance. 



198 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 



Swckon V, 



For an hour it was an exciting occupation to watch 
them — sometimes backing from their midst some 
spirited animal which had too familiarly intruded 
— wading them through a stream which separated 
the point of land where they were gathered, from 
their mountain haunts — or spurring them up the 
hill side, and winding away among the rocks and 
trees where paths were fearfully difficult to all but 
these well trained and sure-footed steeds. 

The Cossacks still remained on the shore, and 
the transport ship came down to our relief, and an- 
chored not far from us. Soon after, not a Circas- 
sian was to be seen. When hope of plunder ceased, 
they jumped into their saddles, each one taking the 
path which led to his own valley or cliff. 

Orders were now given to get soundings and 
carry out kedge anchors, and put all hands to work 
to haul the vessel off; but it was of no avail. The 
alternative remained to discharge everything on 
board. The transport's boats were then sent, and 
all the crew were employed to lighten the vessel, 
and coals, baggage, gun- trucks, ammunition, &c, 
&c., were sent to the man-of-war. The lady, men- 
tioned above, with her little Circassian, went up to 
the town with the general. Nearly all of the 
others accompanied the baggage, while I remained 
with the Lieutenant who had charge of getting us 
out of the sad plight in which he had placed us. 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 199 

All day the work had gone briskly on, but now, at s *™°* y - 
eve, the steamer seemed as fixed as ever. By the de- 
parture of Madame I have however a good berth 
and state room, and shall, doubtless, rest more com- 
fortably in our uncomfortable position, than on any 
previous night. 

16th. Engaged this morning as yesterday in 
lightening the vessel. 

Last night the Georgian colonel won in card 
playing about a hundred dollars; for, free from the 
regulations of the fleet I was in, under Admiral 
Katofskoi, gambling is allowed to any extent — the 
highest in rank participating in it. In connection 
with the game I discovered a considerable meanness 
and ungallant conduct which I had not expected. 
In relating it to Mr. Edmond, he took the liberty of 
informing me of some facts which I perhaps ought 
not to mention, and would not, did I not know that 
they apply not to all on board. He said that the 
tea and sugar, &c, the officers had, and which they 
were stingy of, as well as many other things, pro- 
bably cost them nothing ; for clubbing together — 
captain, other officers, and the clerk — they divide 
the surplus of everything which exceeds the neces- 
sity of the vessel; the excess being caused by 
their reporting to government, that the vessel re- 
quires a vast deal more than she really does. As 
an instance, they desired Mr. Edmond to state in 



Pecula- 
tions. 



200 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 



skction y h} s re port, that the engine required a certain quan- 
tity of oil, which was really double what was need- 
ed. He refused, and in consequence was not so po- 
pular as he might have been had he yielded to such 
solicitation. 

Lieutenant Anrep is an exception to all I have 
said against the others : he neither smokes, nor 
gambles, nor joins in their intrigues, and, unlike 
them, is generous to excess. All he possessed was 
at my disposal. He insisted on my joining him 
morning and evening at his tea ; and if it was plea- 
sant to him it was trebly so to me. 

About 4 o'clock, p.m., when everything had been 
taken out of the vessel, she floated from the rock 
without having sustained any damage. Joy lighted 
up the countenances of all, and friends ran round 
to each other shaking hands of gratulation. Lieu- 
tenant A. was of course very happy. We proceeded 
up the narrow bay, and early in the morning, fol- 
lowed by the transport, anchored off the fortress 
and little village of Novracisk. 

We were soon visited by several noted "Cos- 
sacks of the Line" officers, whom I should not 
have distinguished from the Russians, had it not 
been for their uniform. They were young. One 
was stout and compactly built, and apparently of a 
firm and steady character. Another, who was par- 
ticularly remarked on to me, was slender, but mus- 



Cossack 
Officers. 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 201 

cular, and had the bearing of one of high spirit and Section v 
accustomed to command. His bravery had been 
tried in many a fierce fight with the mountaineers, 
and he had never for an instant been known to 
halt in his progress to victory. 

17th. It has been a damp, chilly day to-day, so 
jnuch so thatj declined going on shore. I amused 
myself by sitting on the taffrail and taking a sketch 
of the town, and at the same time took a severe 
cold. 

General Ravesky in conjunction with Admiral The Peo- 

pie 
Lazaroff took this place in 1838. It has now a po- 
pulation of one thousand men, besides the soldiers. 
Society, of necessity, is bad, from the fact that the 
community is composed of deserters from the army, 
fugitive serfs, and people of bad repute, who had 
come under the protection of a law published by 
the emperor, for the purpose of colonizing his new 
possessions. It granted pardon to all who would 
settle here and become defenders of the soil. 

18th. Though unwell from my exposure yes- Fortifica- 
terday, I went early on shore to examine the town, 
a great portion of the houses of which I already 
knew in detail, even to the number of their win- 
dows. I walked round the entire palisade, which 
is comprised of only wicker work fences filled in 
with mud, and made less easy of approach by a 
ditch. The bastions are made of heavy plank, 



202 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

S8CTt0W v within a triangular fosse ; but none of the works, 
much to my disappointment, appear capable of sus- 
taining the most trivial siege, for they are not high 
enough to offer any impediment to a person wish- 
ing to scale them, nor strong enough to stand 
either a fire or a pickaxe for five minutes. They 
may serve to dodge behind, when arrows and small 
arms are used by the enemy, and to mount the 
cannon on, but that is all. 

The streets are broad and regular, but many of 
them are bordered solely by little, low, indifferent 
dwellings of the serfs and soldiers,' while others are 
adorned with neat and very respectable looking 
mansions, occupied principally by officers of go- 
vernment. I entered quite a number of shops and 
found them well supplied with various articles of 
household use, clothing, provisions, &c. The Greek 
church edifice is a conspicuous object. It is small, 
but has a peculiarly large dome, though of no great 
elevation. 

That which contributed most to make my walk 
interesting, was the variety of costumes to be met 
with ; but the attraction was generally confined to 
the Circassians, who were to be seen in almost 
every street and shop. They had not, however, the 
independent and martial air about them of those I 
saw on the coast, for these were without their arms, 
which are taken away from them when they enter 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 203 

within the walls of the town, but are restored when Sbcti °* v 
they depart. Some of these had brought in fowls 
and eggs ; and others hay and honey, which they 
exchanged for salt and such articles as are not pro- 
duced in the rocky fastnesses. 

We were standing on the upper bastion, where 
several large guns were pointing surlily at the hills 
back of the town, when we saw a female approach- 
ing on horseback, who had descended from the 
mountain and entered the road which led to the 
gate near us. She sat astride of the saddle, and 
was preceded by an elderly man, probably her 
grandfather, for she herself was very young. Cu- 
riosity led us in their way, and as they passed, we 
bowed in Turkish fashion to them, which attracted 
their attention, not being accustomed to such civi- 
lity from the Russian soldiers. The man was evi- 
dently much pleased, and drew up his horse and ad- 
dressed my companion in the Turkish language, 
and seeing that we were foreigners, hinted that he 
would sell his little charge — that she was disposed 
to go — that he was poor, and that there were 
many in the family. We accordingly followed him 
to a rather retired shop which served also for a 
dwelling, and hi a room adjoining the merchandize 
department, he displayed to a considerable extent 
the charms of his lovely grand-daughter. It is not 
too much to say, that as a child she was pretty in 



204 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

Sbction v - form and feature, but it was difficult to tell how 
homely she might become when arrived at woman- 
hood. 

We came on board early in the afternoon and 
soon got under weigh. A large company of sol- 
diers had embarked during the day. They were to 
be carried to the next port on the coast, from 
which place they w T ere to march through a danger- 
ous defile in the mountains — a pass but recently 
obtained by the Russians — and to take up their 
quarters at another fort also on the coast. 

General Albrant, one of the most distinguished 
in the Circassian service, also came to accompany 
us on our voyage. He has but one arm, the other 
having been lost in an engagement with the very 
people we were among, and who, for the energy and 
bravery he has displayed in his battles with them, 
have great respect for him. The soldiers, too, seem 
to regard him with affection, and all on board, evi- 
dently admire the man. 

General Albrant was not long in finding amuse- 
ment for us. He called on the soldiers to bring 
out their private singers and players, and give us 
some exhibition of their talents. They, with great 
alacrity, obeyed him, and gathering aft into a 
small circle, sang some love and war songs, which, 
like those I heard on board the man-of-war in 
coming from Odessa, were peculiar and varied. 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 205 

Usually one began alone and sang a few words, SsCTI °* v - 
when another joined in, and soon a third, and then 
all the company, with an accompaniment of the 
tamborine and an occasional tap of a drum. As 
national airs, they interested me exceedingly, but 
I was told that the language introduced into most 
of them was coarse and adapted to the vulgar 
tastes of the lowest classes. The leader was a very 
tall, stout man, with a broad, honest face, full of 
the most simple, unvarying gravity. It is impos- 
sible to describe the peculiarity of his expression, 
but it was such as to keep the spectators in a 
continual laugh. 

We were but a few hours in reaching the little Ghelend- 
fortress of Laprudensky, where we landed our 
soldiers, and then proceeded immediately towards 
Ghelendjik. We arrived at this latter place at 
eight in the evening, and came to anchor in its 
fine, commodious bay, called by the Circassians 
Koulootsi and seeming but the lower portion of a 
beautiful valley which extends far back into the 
country, and is bordered by lofty hills. 

Ghelendjik was taken in 1830 by General Bert- 
man. It was considered an important place t to 
possess, and those who settled in it after it was 
taken were allowed some peculiar privileges, but 
on the condition that they should defend it from 
the Circassians. The continual annoyance, how- 



206 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section v. everj £ which they were exposed, soon converted 
it into a mere military post, and about two thou- 
sand men are now stationed here. 

In this bay, about twelve months since, the 
Russian guard boats fell in with three Turkish 
vessels loaded with Polish officers and men going 
to join the Circassians. An attack was at once 
made upon them, but the boats were not suf- 
ficiently powerful to capture the merchantmen, so 
they escaped. The Russians lost one valuable offi- 
cer in the contest. Several vessels were, however, 
afterwards taken; for all that have not the pro- 
per ' papers' are liable to be seized if found trad- 
ing in other than the three prescribed ports. Here, 
in 1845, a Cossack major, Barahovitch, captured a 
Turkish vessel, in which were one hundred and 
seventy-five youths — mostly females — on their way 
to Constantinople — the gentler to learn the value 
of their physical charms ; the others, the worth of 
cunning or valor. 

The persons who gave me the above facts re- 
garding this place, state that the Caucasian coast 
has now three military divisions. The 1st, is under 
Rear-Admiral SerabrakofF. The 2nd, under Major- 
General Albrant. who resides here in G , and 

the 3d, under Major-General Hoenback, whose post 
is Bambory. 

To-morrow, if I can find companions, I shall at- 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 207 

tempt a trip up the valley, unless, as at Novracisk — SBmow Y 
a fact I had forgotten to mention — I shall be 
frightened out of it. I there proposed to the offi- 
cers to visit some Circassian village in the interior. 
They assured me it was impossible, for though the 
neighboring tribes were nominally friendly, they 
would kill any foreigner they found at a safe dis- 
tance from the fortress; and that, though there 
was, within a few miles, a beautiful grove where 
they sometimes went, and would like to go often, 
they never undertook the excursion without a very 
strong escort. 

In conversation, afterwards, with Mr. Edmond, 
he confirmed the above statement, and assured me 
that he once escaped being shot within sight of the 
town, by his having a little native boy with him, 
who, seeing the Circassian raise his gun to fire, ex- 
claimed " He is English." The mountaineer had, 
doubtless, a conviction of it himself; for as he 
stood armed in an exposed place, he saw this per- 
son carelessly approaching him, which he knew a 
Russian would not do ; and, Mr. Edmond says, that 
he saw the man raise his gun, but had not the re- 
motest suspicion that he intended it for him. He 
was then but recently arrived, and had strolled out 
in ignorance of all danger. 

19 th. Early this morning, in company with the 
chief Engineer and General Carganoff, I went on 



8 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

SgCTIoy v - shore to see the pretty little village of Ghelendjik. 
Nestled among the mountains, it has much to make 
it a pleasing residence, when peace is not disturbed 
in her sweet valley. I found it a much cleaner, 
and more compact place than Novracisk ; and many 
snug little cottages, with poplar trees, and neat 
fences about them, gave a cheerful and happy as- 
pect to the town. The buildings are all of one 
story, except the hospital, which is a large two 
story stone edifice, well ventilated, and under good 
superintendence ; and if I judge by what I have 
seen in the Russian possessions, I can say that the 
sick are well provided for. 

General Albrant has a tasteful house, with a col- 
onnade in front, occupying one side of a public 
square. 

The walls which surround the town are better 
built than those of Novracisk, but are in the same 
style, and of much less extent. In one place they 
form one side of a small public garden, which must 
be an agreeable retreat at all times ; but more parti- 
cularly in the peculiar twilight of a valley, when 
the shades of evening appear to be gathering about 
it, and one can look up and see the bright golden 
sunlight lying rich and full on the mountain 
heights above him. 

The cold I took at Novracisk, increasing in se- 
verity, the honey of the country was recommended 






TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 209 

as a sovereign remedy. I accordingly went in pur- Sectios v - 
suit of some, which I soon found, of an excellent 
quality, in a little omnium gatherum shop, re- 
sembling one of our country grocery stores. Here, 
too, I obtained several pounds of hard biscuits, and 
also some hard, white, and very inferior cheese. 
This, as also the honey, had been brought from the 
mountains by the Circassians. 

My purchases delayed us some little time. The Circassian 
general had already gone on board, and given or- 
ders to get under weigh, but the engineer was acting 
as my cicerone, so we soon saw the signal flying 
for our return. On arriving at the vessel we found 
that a celebrated Circassian Chief, Duke Jeubesky, 
was to be a fellow passenger. He was the tallest, 
and finest formed person I had seen in the country, 
but there was nothing prepossessing in the expres- 
sion of his face. He had but one eye, having lost 
the other in battle, and his whole physiognomy, 
though bespeaking a man of resolution, betokened 
no honesty. He wore the skull cap with the heavy 
wool tuft border, a long drab coat, and pantaloons 
girt about below the knee. On his feet were neat 
red mocassins. His weapons were rich and curious, 
besides being abundant. Two narrow strips of lea- 
ther, ornamented with silver, crossing his breast, 
passed over his shoulders. To the back of the one 
on the right, hung a large quiver covered with 
13 



210 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

sbotion v- black velvet, and trimmed with silver braid ; full 
of arrows, long and pointed with silver steel, they 
could easily be reached by the right hand. To the 
one on the left hung a red Morocco pouch, suffi- 
ciently long and broad to contain the lower part of 
the bow passing under his left arm. At his belt 
hung a richly-mounted Circassian sword, a two- 
edged cama, and a pair of long pistols. His com- 
panion, a nobleman also, but less celebrated, wore 
frock and pantaloons of blue cloth, with a narrow 
silver ribbon round the bottom of each, down the 
side of the latter, and round the top of his shoes. 
The upper part of his body, as also his weapons, 
were covered by the shaggy bourka, which he did 
not lay aside. 

After the conquest of Anapa, Ghelendjik, and 
the deep valleys of the stream Hyderbey, were most 
coveted, though the czar was little aware of the sa- 
crifices to be made in taking and maintaining them. 
From every rock and tree started an armed foe, 
fearful and formidable ; and such have been met 
with at every step advanced into the Caucasus. 
By an ukase, in 1832, those who would settle here, 
were granted immunity from all taxes and military 
duty for twenty-five years. It soon, however, from 
necessity, became a mere garnison for soldiers. We 
here took leave of our fair Russian lady and her 
little Circassian slave. 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 211 



Distant about fifteen miles from Ghelendjik, we 



Section V. 



passed Pchata, or Novatroisky, where we left a The Coast 
boat and a quantity of soldiers, destined for the 
fortifications there, but who came very near being 
upset in the surf, and with great labor reached the 
shore. Nineteen miles further on we passed ano- 
ther little Russian fortress called Sapsooga, or 
Tinginskoi, where we intended to have passed the 
night ; but the roughness of the sea prevented our 
even coming to anchor. Necessity drove us on, 
and, after steaming about twenty-one miles more, 
we came to Tuabsy, or Villaminskoi, and at ten at 
night, found ourselves riding in smooth water. 

In this port, in 1838, many vessels were des- Tuabsy. 
troyed by a furious storm which prevailed along 
the entire coast. Some sailors, thrown upon the 
beach, were taken prisoners ; but were afterwards 
ransomed. Cattle were given in exchange for 
them, and sometimes money to the amount of one 
thousand silver rubles — the highest sum paid. 
Every year, vessels are wrecked on this coast, 
owing to there being, along its whole extent, only 
three harbors ; so when a storm comes on sud- 
denly, and the Russian mariners find themselves 
near these hostile shores, they give themselves up 
to despair, having little hope of escape. 

This place, too, is one of the most famous — 
though insignificant, and but poorly defended — on 
13* 



212 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section v. fo e Circassian coast, for the many attacks it has 
sustained from the natives, and for the gallant de- 
fence, which its garrison has recently made, to the 
great satisfaction of the Emperor. In November of 
last year, about seven thousand Abhazians attacked 
it ; but were repelled with a loss of three hundred 
of their bravest soldiers. This number of men 
were found dead about the fortress ; but as it is 
their custom to take with them in flight all the 
dead they can, it is reasonably supposed that many 
more fell on that memorable occasion. They came 
down stealthily at break of dawn, and burst upon 
the place like a tempest — with shouts and the clang 
of arms, which roared and echoed among the rocks, 
and valleys like crashing thunder. The Russians, 
who hold these places, know well the people in 
whose land they dwell ; and it would seem that 
they never sleep. In this instance, the sentinels 
gave the alarm, and, almost as quick as given, 
every man was at his post, engaged in deadly con- 
flict with a most fierce enemy. Hand to hand the 
struggle lasted, through long frightful hours, after 
which the attacking party retired to the mountains. 

APasaen- 20th. Rain poured heavily during the night, 
and as some peculiar circumstances occurred, not 
explained, we proceeded on at early light. The in- 
clemency of the weather drove into the cabin a fair 
young woman who belonged among the deck pas- 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 213 

sengers. Her mother was a Circassian, her father Sectiow v - 
a Cossack. The sad expression of her face, her 
now diffident and tremulous manner attracted my 
attention, and I beckoned to her to come and exa- 
mine the drawings I had made of some places 
along the coast. She looked at them without any 
emotion till she recognized the hills of Anapa, 
when she instantly clapped her hands, and a ray of 
wild delight seemed to rush from her soul and dif- 
fuse itself over her whole face ; but instantly re- 
collecting that she was with a stranger, she became 
pale, and did not smile again, and immediately went 
away when the storm abated. 

This morning we passed the neat little town and 
fortress of Lazaroff (named after the distinguished 
Admiral), where we had some persons to land. We 
were, however, frustrated in this on account of the 
weather, so continued on to Galavinsky, a small 
place of which I also took a sketch. Its situation 
is extremely pleasing, being at the entrance of a 
valley overlooked by wooded hills, above which 
tower distant and more distant cliffs — lofty and 
more lofty, till snow and clouds veil them from 
sight. There are about five hundred soldiers here. 
It is in Oobeehy district, and was taken in 1839. 

We are now running along the coast of Central Scenery. 
Circassia, where the scenery becomes bolder and 
wilder. The thousands of hills and mountains 



214 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

asOTioK v. which stretch away into the interior, and form the 
strong adamantine breast work of this people, look 
as though an army of giants had pitched their vast 
tents here. As the cliffs grew more bold, the val- 
leys appeared more fertile and pleasant ; and some- 
times we could look for miles up one of these, and 
see slope after slope, cultivated and beautiful, de- 
scending into its fair and gentle bosom, till at last 
some towering blue rock in the distance, shut out 
all further intrusive gaze, leaving one with half a 
conviction that beyond that was the vale of Par- 
adise. 

A Pole. I n 1846, Galavinsky was so heroicly defended 
against a most bold and systematic attack from the 
Circassians, that every officer who survived, re- 
ceived a decoration of honor, and every soldier a 
cross of St. George. The Circassians confess that 
they were led on by a Pole, and that he died (or 
was killed) because he was not victorious as he had 
promised to be. The Russians say that — "these 
cursed mountain robbers murdered him, believing 
he had betrayed them, though he had led their 
cavalry to the onslaught." 

I cannot describe the boldness and beauty, the 
wildness, and majesty of the landscape which in 
quick succession, called up our earnest admiration 
as we sped along the coast. A solitary Circassian 
hut was here and there seen crowning some beet- 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 215 

ling cliff, and then only a light wreath of smoke S8a0TI0W v 
rising from the valley, betokened a habitation. 
Wherever we anchored, a band of natives, — armed 
as is the custom, whenever they leave home, — al- 
ways gathered on the shore; but at a respectful 
distance from the town. They suddenly came be- 
fore the sight as though the oaks and pines had 
turned to men, giving the impression, (and it has 
been found a very true one) that every foot of earth 
would be covered almost instantly as by magic, with 
fiery warriors, if the alarm fires should be lighted 
on the mountain tops. 

The next little fortress we passed and which Socha. 
seemed but the terminus of a cliff jutting out to 
sea, was Soocha or Novaginsky. This had also 
like the latter, been often attacked by the Circas- 
sians, but had always been successfully defended. 
When opposite the town, we discharged a heavy 
cannon, which was answered by two others from 
the fort. It was a private signal, and was under- 
stood to signify that owing to the roughness of the 
weather they could not send a boat to us to report 
to our General, but that all was well. 

At half past six P. M., we passed Adlar or Sviatoy- Gagra. 
dooh, and at nine arrived at Gagra. Here the 
water was so deep, and the cliffs so bold, that we 
lay close to the face of the rocks, and they seemed 
hanging their giant, sombre heights over our very 



216 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

seotoh v. h ea d s> This place is surrounded by a stone wall, 
and has a garrison of about two hundred and fifty 
soldiers. Our stay here was short, and we proceeded 
to Pitsunda. 

Southern 21 st. To day my attention was called by Lieu- 

Service. 

tenant Anrep, to the very curious mixture of peo- 
ple by whom we were surrounded, remarking, 
which the facts before me corroborated, that the 
Russian service in the south, was composed mostly 
of foreigners. One of our officers is a Swede, 
another is of Grecian origin. One is a Circassian, 
three are Georgians, two are Germans, and one is 
a Scotchman. Only one has black hair. Their 
complexion is light, and they resemble in look and 
manner, the New Englanders. Young Anrep has 
a generous Saxon face and a hand and foot small 
enough for a girl of twelve. 
Pitsunda. It was midnight before we anchored at Pitsunda, 
and as we glided into the smooth waters of its safe 
and well sheltered harbor, the stars came out, and 
the snow-clad peaks* around as well as the deep 
beneath, reflected their brightness, while the soli- 
tude of a perfect desert brooded over every thing. 
One single light burned high up on a mountain 
side. It was probably the remains of a fire that 
had been kindled by some of the Abhazians to 
sleep by ; for these people are peculiarly distrustful, 
and a band of them is never known to lie down 

# See Appendix A. 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 217 

when abroad, without the precaution to have their Section v - 
guns in their hands and so secured by the body, 
that they could not be removed without awakening 
the owner. When the fire is built, they form a circle 
round it, lying down on the left side, each resting 
his head on the legs of the one in advance of him, 
w T hile the right hand clasps the lock of the gun, 
in a manner most ready for use. 

The sun had but just risen large and red from 
the bosom of the waters, when Lieutenant Anrep 
and myself, went on shore to see this most in- 
teresting place. On our left stretched away a 
long beach bordered with magnificent trees, while 
on our right, were some gentle hills covered with 
verdure, and behind these, more lofty and irregular 
ones, overtopped by still more lofty peaks, whose 
sharp pointed, and regular outlines, were as purely 
white, as the beautiful pure white snow could make 
them, — and as they arose, cold but bright in their 
majesty, against the clear blue sky, their bases 
were tinged with a deep purple color, while over 
the top of the fog that lingered like a spirit on the 
deep, the tall green trees waved gracefully. "We land- 
ed on a pebbly beach where the commander of the 
place, with a small body of soldiers, awaited the 
arrival of General Bourberh. 

We found several boats drawii upon the shore; 
an Abhazian fisher-boy was at his task a little 



218 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

Section v - distance from us, and one or two small huts stood 
near. This was all we at first saw. From here 
the harbor was extremely beautiful, and after feast- 
ing our eyes on the scene, around which there 
rested a Sabbath-like stillness, we turned our steps 
towards the town. A few rods, brought us to a 
sandy, level country, covered with enormous pines, 
that sighed and rustled in the wind like those 
of our own dark groves ; and brought vividly to 
mind a favorite path of my childhood, which led 
from my good old grandfather's mansion, to the 
village school. The solemn whisperings and wav- 
ings of these giants around me, now told upon 
my heart, as in days of yore. We continued on 
for about half a mile, and arrived at a little 
Russian settlement, so enveloped in trees, that the 
dwellings were hid from one another, rendering the 
place, I believe, unhealthy : indeed, many are the 
soldiers who die here. The situation is lovely, and 
even romantic, and may be to the inhabitants, " the 
happy valley of Rasselas," but the lowness of the 
land, and its moisture, which the thick foliage 
prevents being dried up by the sun and air, render 
it a fatal place — the visages of several I met there, 
confirming my opinion of its insalubrity. 

Byzantine But that which renders this spot peculiarly sa- 
cred, is the half mysterious ruin of an old By- 
zantine church. It stands in the centre of half 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 219 

an acre of ground, surrounded by a strong stone SECTIQ * v - 
wall about fifteen feet high. In this there are also 
several other buildings, of the same style of archi- 
tecture, and within a few rods of the church, 
one which may have been a chapel, and an- 
other, the priests' dwelling. Enormous grape 
vines, seeming the growth of centuries, stretch 
along from tree to tree. The temple large, its 
arches lofty, broad and strong, and its dome of 
brick, well preserved, except in one place, where 
a small hole has unfortunately been broken through, 
shows architectural taste and skill, which I did not 
expect to meet with in the stillness of this wilder- 
ness. It is in the form of a cross, and is com- 
posed of brick and square stone. On its western 
side there is a vestibule, at one end of which is 
a very little chapel ornamented with fresco paint- 
ings of the Crucifixion, the Descent and Repose, 
Mary being represented as kissing the Saviour's 
feet. Under the floor of this, is a neat stone grave, 
large enough for one body only, with niches at each 
end, as if for feet and head, while in the wall above, 
was a large sarcophagus, now partially destroyed. 
From the vestibule a very large door-way opens 
into the nave of the building, while on the right 
and left are three side aisles, separated from the 
nave by columns of brick ; these extended to the 
transept. Over them are galleries for the women. 



220 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section v. rpj^ c ] iance ] > [ s separated from the nave by a wall 
about five feet high, on which rest ten small 
columns supporting an entablature. Within this, 
stands a square altar, still in some places encrusted 
with pure white marble, ornamented with a cross. 
On each corner there was a marble colunm, which 
probably supported a dome. Two of them are still 
standing, and the others though fallen, are there — 
which is much to be wondered at in this relique- 
seeking age — and remain as interesting memen- 
tos of the taste of a people long since passed away 
from these sacred precints. The dome and the 
walls had been painted in fresco, but are now so 
much defaced, that the design cannot be deciphered. 
Around the vestibule is a row of brick seats, and 
in the east end are five narrow, lofty pointed 
windows, as there are also in the end of the tran- 
sept. Exteriorly on the north and south sides there 
was built out on arches, a kind of narrow portico. 
At the end of the south one, there stands a large 
marble column without capital, its base seeming to 
be much sunk in the ground. Its companion which 
is gone, doubtless formed with it the support of a 
handsome marble portico. This temple is said to 

A Priest have been built in the year 500. The priest of the 
district very courteously showed me around the 
place. He is of the Greek church; his expression 
noble, but he is suffering ill health : his tall and 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 221 

erect form show that he was once a different man. S£CTI0N v# 
His long black hair, hanging about his shoulders, his 
black mustaches and beard, his solemn black eyes 
and long robes, give him an air of strange dis- 
tinction, and in any other station I should have 
thought him a mad genius. 

Pitsunda was taken in 1830. There is stationed 
here another battalion of troops, besides some 
Cossack boatmen, who took us back to the steamer. 
At eight o'clock we were speeding on towards Bam- 
bora, where, on the shore, stands another ruin, 
said to date back two thousand years. A few houses 
are on the beach, and do not look very inviting, 
while the town like that of Pitsunda, is in the 
interior, at the distance of a mile and a half. 

In the neighborhood resides the distinguished Abhazian 

. . Prince. 

prince of Abhazia, Michael Shervashidzy, now 
Lieutenant General in the Russian sendee. He is 
a very politic man, and will doubtless turn to satis- 
factory account when occasion offers, his present 
apparent infidelity. 

At half past five we were again en route, and s ^°iA m " 
at seven in the evening arrived at Sakoom-kale. Its 
fortress was built by the Turks at the time of their 
great commercial relationship with this people, and 
has now a garrison of twenty-five hundred men. 
There reside here some Circassian traders from 
Abhazia, whose tribes are the renowned warriors of 



222 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section v. tn j s coa st. It was taken in 1810. Being bombard- 
ed from the sea, it soon surrendered, the Turks 
abandoning it precipitately. A portion of the 
soldiers remain in the town, others occupy a fortress 
on the mountain side one hundred and sixty feet 
above the former, and to which water is elevated, 
by means of ingenious machinery, from a stream in 
the valley. 
D °b- offl" Here we received on board a gallant officer of 
cer - the Don Cossacks. His costume consisted of a blue 
jacket ornamented with Circassian cartridge boxes ; 
blue pantaloons, a wool bordered cap, a two edged 
cama and sword. His garments were richly 
trimmed with silver lace, while around his waist was 
a silver thread sash. He paid his respects to our 
general, who received him in a most affable man- 
ner; and their conversation, which continued for 
some time, related to the affairs of the fortress. 

A road is now being constructed from this 
place to connect it with Redout-kale, but it is an 
expensive work, as high and strong bridges have 
to be built across the valleys to be free from the 
floods of spring, which sweep along them with 
tremendous force. 

About seven versts from here is a little village 
which belongs to another prince, who also holds 
rank in the Russian army, but does nothing. At a 
place called Calasoora, the merchants pay him two 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 223 

or three thousand silver rubles a year, for the SECTI0y v - 
privilege of trading in this district: they are most 
all of them Turks and Armenians. S-kale has a 
large bay, sheltered from all winds except those 
from south to south west, and the water is very deep. 
The Turks come here for palm. Nearly all the large 
trees have massive grape vines growing beside them, 
evidently placed there to gain the support of their 
less erratic neighbors. Here also are found the 
pine, cedar, apple and pear, in a wild state. In Treeg and 
Gargary, distant a few versts, the olive, fig, pome- Frmts - 
granite, almond and walnut abound. Sakoom- 
kale was attacked on August 25th, 1847, by the 
Abhazians and fifteen of their number were killed; 
but they took and carried away all the cattle be- 
longing to the place. These however they restored, 
exchanging them for the dead. A conflict has 
recently taken place in which I was told two thous- 
and Russians were slaughtered. 

I examined the town only by night. On the left 
side of it stands the old and strong fortress of the 
Ottomans. The shore from there towards the right 
is lined with various buildings, sheds, huts, &c., 
over which, on higher ground, is a battery and row 
of neat-looking little dwellings, and beyond, the 
picturesque mountains of Sukoom. 

22d. Archimchira, where the Duke Michael Archim- 

chira. 

resides a part of the year, is a collection of little 



224 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASES. 



f^^_2l -wooden houses, a few being of two stories with 
balconies. These stand along the shore, and be- 
hind them stretches away a thick forest overlooked 
by irregular hills, in their turn brooded over by 
lofty mountains covered with snow. Two or three 
boats were on the shore, and the villagers had 
collected there also. The dwellings generally 
being tightly closed by wooden shutters, lacked the 
air of cheerfulness. The Duke's house is a little 
larger and better than the others, but not very 
attractive. The chimneys are built outside of its 
walls, and look unfinished and awkward; but he 
has in the interior of the country, a stone house 
which is said to be quite pretty, well furnished and 
large, compared with those of his neighbors. 
Redaut- At ten o'clock we again got up steam and started 

Kate. 

for Hedout-kale, which is our port of destination, 
and from which I am to wind my way through the 
far famed valley of Georgia to the Caspian. I shall 
greatly regret my parting from Lieutenant Anrep, 
whose courtesy and kindness have remained un- 
abated. Lieutenant Anrep has given me his ad- 
dress, and I have promised to send to him Ban- 
croft's splendid History of the United States, which 
he will translate into the Russian language, and 
which I think him fully capable of doing, uniting 
as he does, an apt and sober judgment, with a love 
of literature. 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 225 

At two o'clock we anchored off Redout-kale, and Section v 
immediately landed a large company of soldiers. 
The weather looking badly, and the roadstead not 
being very safe, there was an anxiety to despatch 
business and be off. 

I was now to take leave of many pleasant ac- 
quaintances, and was to commence a new kind 
of travelling, and through a portion of country 
which had never been visited by any American. 
There was nothing inviting in the immediate pros- 
pect, for the whole coast appeared but an un- 
inhabited wilderness. The mouth of the river we 
were to enter was partly closed by a sand bar, 
and only one house, which was low and of wood? 
was to be seen, while the country around seemed 
never to have been redeemed from its primeval 
state. The little town of Redout-kale situated on 
the Khope, a mile or two from its mouth, w r e could 
not see from the vessel, as the intervening forest 
was higher than its low dwellings. There was not 
either any indication of business here, which might 
have been anticipated from its being one of the en- 
trepots for the precious commodities of the East. A 
steamer, however, from Odessa, and two large ves- 
sels were anchored to the westward of us. That 
splendid range of Circassian mountains which we 
have coasted along for so many days, turn a little 

from their usual course a few leagues to the north- 
14 



226 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

Section V- ward of Redout-Kale, and stretch away in a more 
easterly direction for the Caspian. But the range 
can yet be seen — their snow-capped peaks mingling 
with the clouds. 

Soon after our arrival, a large Turkish boat came 
along side, and it was chartered by my Georgian 
friend to take us and his carriage to the town. The 
vehicle was soon swung, hoisted, and then lowered 
over the side ; but just before it reached the boat 
the gaff broke, and all the tackling, blocks, ropes, 
&c, fell upon the deck, while the carriage went 
into the boat with a frightful crash. No very seri- 
ous damage was done, though those of us who stood 
under the hoisting apparatus came very near being 
killed by the broken spar. 
Parting. I parted from my steamer acquaintances with 
much regret, for they had not ceased to bestow 
their daily attentions upon me ; and for the hun- 
dredth time, found this bidding farewell to new and 
loved friends, one of the most bitter drops in 
the cup of the traveller. A government boat had al- 
ways been placed at my disposal — information 
of every kind frankly communicated — the officers 
had been my untiring interpreters, and one had 
made my morning and evening tea a most agreeable 
pastime ; and little transpired that did not tend to 
disprove the discourtesy, inhospitality, and jealousy 
of the Russians. 

On entering the boat, a large sail was set, and 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 227 

we swept furiously along towards the Khope. Our SECTI0M v - 
helmsman had a most villainous face, but his dress 
was studiously neat. He had a rich sash about 
his waist, and his crimson vest was fastened across 
his full breast by innumerable silk buttons. He A Giaour, 
watched with deep interest and pleasure the glid- 
ing of his little craft, which, like a bird, flew be- 
fore the wind ; he was a true Giaour. 

Just within the embouchure of the river were fifteen Ri Ter 
little low wooden houses, in one of which, at a glass ° pe ' 
window now swung open, stood an elderly female 
in Imeritian costume, and a young girl with face 
muffled up a la Turque. A few fishermen and sol- 
diers were seen here and there, while low brush- 
wood, instead of fruitful gardens, filled the back 
ground. We continued on up the river, which I 
should think would not exceed a hundred feet in 
width — occasionally having the gratification of 
greeting some familiar tree — the willow and the 
olive, with the vine interweaving itself among their 
branches. After about an hour's rowing we began 
to enter the suburbs of the village and soon found 
on either bank the houses compact as in a city. On 
the left, a street ran between them and the water, 
while on the right the verandas extended out over 
the river itself, rendering them delightful places of 
resort in a summer's evening. As we reached the 

landing the sun was just setting, and though sur- 
14* 



228 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 



SECTIoy v " rounded by the rudest dwellings, the scene remind- 
ed me of the canals of Venice. 

We had passed the whole length of the town in 
search of some species of an hotel, and finally re- 
turned to the private house of a Georgian bachelor 
where we were very kindly received, and all of our- 
selves, and baggage, soon stowed away in one room. 
A poor candle, on a poor table, gave us but a som- 
bre idea of things, so we stepped to the veranda, 
where one of the sweetest pictures we could have 
looked upon was before us — the full moon coming 
up afar out of the bed of the stream, throwing a 
long band of light on the water, now as smooth as 
a mirror. 

The situation of Eedout-Kale is low, and I 
should judge that it is very unhealthy. It is the 
principal town in the district of Mingrelia. The 
effect of its position is pleasing, though the houses 
are all one story high, with roofs projecting so as to 
form the covering for the verandas, with which 
nearly all are provided, being protected on the wa- 
ter side by a garde de fou. Many of the houses have 
doors only, and no windows, in front. The build- 
ings on the side where we are, and which stand 
partly over the stream making them very conveni- 
ent for loading and unloading merchandize, have 
their main entrance on a broad street which runs 
parallel with the river the length of the town. On 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 229 

this are all the retail shops, which exhibit a variety Secti °* y - 
of articles suitable for the maintenance of poor vil- 
lagers. Among the prominent things which arrest- 
ed my attention were fine apples, crude white 
cheese, and hog skins filled with wine. 

The young man from Georgia, at whose house we A Geor- 
are sojourning, is of the Armenian religion. He is 
quite handsome. His dress consists of very large 
blue pantaloons, and a fancy calico frock reaching 
nearly to the knees. About his waist is a dark 
leather bealt, beautifully ornamented with chased 
silver plates. On his feet are red slippers, and on 
his head a high conical sheep-skin cap, the black 
wool being outside, and curled and dressed so nicely 
as to look as well as an English hat. This, how- 
ever, is the most unbecoming part of his costume. 
When he goes into the street he puts on a black 
merino frock, or sack, having sleeves twice as long 
as his arm, though not often used for covering it, the 
half from the shoulder down, not being sewed up, 
though the lower part is so made that when drawn 
on, the upper portion falls gracefully over it. 

At a late hour supper was brought. It consisted A Supper. 
of chicken soup, very acid ; next, stewed meat with 
rice ; then bread and cheese with black roe ; then 
another stew with livers, hearts, &c. Two huge 
jars of red native wine were placed on the table ; 
but no water ; for every body, rich and poor, drinks 



230 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section v, foe juice of the grape and nothing else ; and intem- 
perance does not exist. We presented to our host 
and his friend, who waited on us, a tumbler of wine. 
They took off their caps, and with great deference 
drank our healths ; but they could not be prevailed 
upon to sit in our presence, as they deemed it dis- 
respectful to their guests. 

Our The building we occupy has, on the street, one 

House. 

large room for the sale of merchandize and for stor- 
age : the one behind it is also large, and from it 
extends a hall opening on the balcony. On one 
side of this passage way is our room, and opposite 
are a bed room and a kitchen. I visited each, and, 
in the latter, was amused at the primitive method in 
which our supper was preparing. A chicken with 
a stick stuck through him was being held over the 
fire which was built in the centre of the room on a 
quantity of bricks and clay, placed there for the 
purpose. I could not see that the smoke had any 
chance to escape ; in fact, there was so much of it, 
that it nearly suffocated me, and I was glad to re- 
treat from the presence of a man who could not 
find any method of cooking more economical both 
of time and labor. 

The walls of our apartment were ornamented 
with a small mirror, a handsome Circassian pistol 
and gun, a tamborine, a mandolin without strings, 
one of those pointed Caucasian hoods, before des- 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 231 

cribed, several Georgian vestments, and a portrait Sectiqw v - 
of a venerable Greek bishop, with numerous deco- 
rations of honor on his breast, rings on his fingers, 
and at his chin, a long full beard, white as snow. 
Our window, of six small squares of glass, over- 
looked the river. On the sill were two Turkish 
glass-bulb pipes with long flexible stems. We had 
one table, but no chairs; so we sat on the side of 
the bed, or on an iron frame with wooden bot- 
tom, and a divan made of empty boxes covered by 
woollen rugs. The absence of chairs is accounted 
for from the fact that the Georgians, like the Turks, 
sit cross-legged on divans, or on the floor, and would 
find chairs quite uncomfortable. Of bed coverings 
there were none; for as the barbarous custom of 
sleeping in one's clothes prevails to a great extent 
throughout this region, such articles are dispensed 
with, and one's cloak must serve for sheets, blankets, 
counterpanes, &c. With such as we had, and 
thankful that we were not worse off, we stretched 
ourselves out for the night. 

23d. We were awakened this morning by a heavy 
rain which beat on the roof, the sound not being in- 
tercepted by any ceiling. The bad weather has con- 
tinued through the day, and prevented our leaving 
for the interior. I do not regret it, for having 
added to the cold of which I had reason to com- 
plain, my health seems yielding to a frightful cough 



232 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS.. 



sectiow v. fa&t racks my frame and fatigues me, as would the 
fast climbing a steep hill. 

General Bourbehr and suite started on horseback 
through mud and rain, for Tiflis. He is a man of 
much energy of character, but confesses that, ow- 
ing to the extreme badness of the roads, he ex- 
pects to encounter much that is arduous, if not dan- 
gerous. 
Shops. I have amused myself a little by looking at the 
shops and their contents, and the people and their 
costumes, which are as various as are the nations 
of the East. The former, as I have said, are all 
very low, a man's head being as high as many of 
the columns which support the roof as it descends 
over the veranda; and there are often gathered 
there people enough to carry off bodily the entire 
building. The roofs are pointed and shingled in- 
differently. 
Arch- The portrait which I have mentioned as in our 
Aprem. r oom, is a likeness of the Armenian archbishop, 
Aprem, who, I was told, was one of the most 
learned, benevolent and pious men of the age. 
He at one time bought with his own money, the 
liberty of five hundred prisoners who had been 
taken in war by the Turks. He spent eight 
years in the East Indies, where are to be found 
many of his own nation, of whom I myself knew 
one there, the most beautiful of any of the human 
race I ever gazed on. 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 233 



24th. This morning I presented a letter of in- 



Sectioh V. 



troduction I had from a gentleman in the Crimea, New ac- 
to his relative, a rich Greek merchant of this place, ance. 
He received me with the best expressions of kind- 
ness, and wished me immediately to take np my 
residence with him, he being a bachelor and alone. 
He took me to his room, which, like ours, looked 
out on the river, ordered coffee and a pipe. The 
apartment was furnished more richly than others I 
had seen, and was neat. One end was partly cov- 
ered with black velvet, against which hung a 
handsome Circassian knife, and richly mounted pis- 
tols. His costume was purely Grecian, his ex- 
pression lively and amiable ; and, through my in- 
terpreter, he made himself very agreeable. On 
leaving, he bade me promise that if I ever visited 
that place again, I would come and make my abode 
with him. 

The Mingrelians whom we had hired to take us The 

Phasis. 

to Marane, at the head of navigation on the Phasis, 
now called the Bion, have all day been preparing 
the boat, luggage, &c, for our departure. The 
boat, made of three planks, forming the bottom 
and two sides, is canoe-shaped, and about thirty 
feet long, and only wide enough for two persons to 
sit in abreast. In the after part, the boatme nhave 
nailed on each side, pliable sticks, and so bent and 
fastened them together, as to form an arch over 



234 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

head. These they have covered with bark mats, 
secured by poles laid along them, and tied down by 
bark strings. This is to be, for several days, at 
least, our sleeping, dressing, eating and baggage 
room, and to all appearances we shall find it as un- 
comfortably confined as imaginable. But who 
would regard such trifles, when he feels that he is 
floating in that famed stream where the renowned 
Argonauts in that remarkable and seemingly fabu- 
lous Grecian expedition, obtained the golden fleece ! 
Who would care whether he was sitting on a costly 
couch, or on his leather valise, if he but gazed on 
the memorable shores of Colchis, whose consecrated 
grove concealed the woolly coating of that famous 
ram which bore Helle, the fair daughter of Nephe- 
le, far from the bloody designs of her step mother, 
Ino ! Who would care whether he was in a palace 
or a canoe, when conscious of being surrounded by 
the very scenes, hills, woods and valleys, which 
echoed to the lyre of Orpheus — to the voice of 
his prayers to the Samothracian deities; the foot- 
steps of Castor, Peleus, Hercules and numerous 
others of the most valiant of Thessaly, who gen- 
erously accompanied Jason in his memorable voy- 
age ! Is it not enough, to forget all else, to be by 
the banks w T here the sacred Argo was moored, and 
where Medea loved and saved her lover! Well, 
we are now where Medea's father reigned — where 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 2&5 

the fine Sardonian linen was made, and where silver Sectiok v 

palaces gorgeously glistened in the light ; — where 

all had ivory furniture, and every table was loaded 

with vessels of gold, though a wild forest covers 

the earth from which sprung the armed host, when 

the serpent's teeth of Cadmus were sown in the 

furrows turned by the ploughshare of adamant, 

drawn by the wild, fire-breathing bulls of Yulcan. — 

To-night we shall enter those far-famed waters, — 

the Phasis : 

During the day we had procured a large quantity 

of provisions, such as bread, cheese, sausages, tea 

and sugar ; and as my companions had abandoned 

their northern costume, and donned that of the 

natives, I, too, purchased a Circassian cap, which Circas- 
sian Cap. 
had the appearance of being the most comfortable 

thing in the world. It is made of dark blue cloth, 
is oval and fits the head closely, has four silver 
cords running from the top to the border, which 
consists of a very thick mass of black, shining, 
silky goat's hair, falling about the neck and shoul- 
ders. Having this, I sent my hat on board with 
the baggage, and when I next saw it, its shape was 
unlike any thing that Mr. Mills of Broadway, ori- 
ginally had designed. Being spoiled, I threw it into 
the stream ; making the virtue of necessity, a kind 
tribute from the New "World of which the Argo- 
nauts had never dreamed. 



Boating. 



236 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

Section v It was four o'clock before our boat swung off. 
We left our host seated, cross-legged, on a mat on 
the floor, eating from a dish of meat that sat before 
him, and pouring out often from the huge jug that 
had adorned our table. We had but started when 
the rain poured again in torrents, and before we 
reached the mouth of the river, the weather had 
become tempestuous and dark, so much so that our 
boatmen considered it dangerous to pass out into 
the sea through which, for about twenty versts, we 
had to coast, in order to enter the Helle-haunted 
stream which we were to ascend. Fortunately, at 
this juncture, a large government barge, manned by 
those able Don Cossack boatmen which are so cele- 
brated for their activity and skill, was returning 
from a vessel in the roadstead. My colonel hailed 
its officer and requested his aid. The boat, though 
it had shot by us like an arrow, returned, and an 
offer of money was made, which, with the official 
station of my companion, had the desired effect, 
and they immediately took us in tow. The deepest 
of darkness had gathered around us when we felt 
the angry waves of the Euxine tossing our little 
bark, and every instant periling our lives ; but the 
Cossacks commenced a very cheerful song, which 
they continued, with little intermission, to the end 
of their task. It aided them in rowing, and was 
a far pleasanter sound than that of the beating rain 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 237 

and the rush of water on the shore. The Mingre- Sbction v 
lians occupied themselves in steadying and balanc- 
ing our boat, to keep her from swamping. 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 



PART II. 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 



SECTION I. 

About ten o'clock we reached the Phasis. It SbotiokL 



appeared broader, and more turbulent and turbid, 
than I had anticipated. Its banks on either hand 
did not appear, through the obscurity, very promi- 
nent, but covered with trees and under-brush. We 
soon came to the fortress of Poti, situated on our 
right, where a few soldiers only are stationed, but 
which must some day be a place of great impor- 
tance. Here our fifteen Cossacks left us, and for a 
long distance our own men kept time to the song 

of the retreating soldiers of the Don. We con- Scene or 

. . . Shor€ - 

tinued now, alone, till midnight, when we drew to 

the shore, where there appeared to be a village or 
group of poor huts, and sent our servant to ascer- 
tain if a place could be found wherein we could 
sleep and make our tea. After about a quarter of 

an hour the man returned with the good news that 
15 



42 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

Section l he had succeeded in his mission. We all now 
hurried to land in Guria, a district as famous here 
for its beauties as any in the mountains. My first 
step was into a canoe half full of water, my second 
into the mud almost knee deep, and my twenty or 
thirty succeeding ones into a dirty, unpaved lane, 
bordered by the plank walls of two sheds or houses. 
The one on the left had its door still open. In the 
centre of the room, on the earth floor, was a large 
fire, around which were gathered five or six half- 
clad, miserable-looking Caucasians, drinking and 
carousing. The glare of the light on their haggard 
faces, and their dingy, naked bodies, made them 
seem, perhaps, more dangerous and pitiable objects 
than they really were ; so I hurried on after my 
guide, who showed me to the opposite side, where 
I at once entered, glad to get any shelter from rain 
and mud. But here, too, I was sickened by the 
wretched beings who attracted my sight. In the 
centre of the little room was a fire, and very near to 
it, on some planks, were two men sleeping in their 
rags and partly covered with the bourka. On the 
bare floor lay a man and a bloated, idiotic-looking 
boy. They got up and spread a bark mat for us to 
sit on and some rude wooden stools, and went to 
work to heat water for tea, while our servant 
brought in our provisions for supper. Sick, and 
more sickened at the degradation before me, I could 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 243 

not eat, but I gave some bread to the boy, who, in Section l 
thanks, placing his hand upon his forehead, bowed 
reverently almost to the ground. 

During the repast, the Colonel explained to the 
host, that I was from America. His eyes dilated 
with astonishment, and he said : " What cloud of 
heaven could have dropped him in such a place as 
this ;" and I could with propriety have ejaculated, 
amen. They w T atched me thereafter with great 
curiosity. After the meal, arrangements were made 
for sleep, for it was now two o'clock. Our prepar- 
ations amounted to wrapping ourselves up in our 
cloaks, putting the stools under our heads, and our 
feet to the fire, and stretching ourselves out amid 
dirt and squalid wretches ; thus all, save myself, 
were soon asleep. 

I was at least grateful even for this retreat from niness 
the storm, for my cold had increased in asperity, 
and the exposure to the midnight air, now damp 
and chilly, had thrown me into a most violent fever 
which was burning me up, and my head seemed 
about to fly asunder with throbbing pain. Novelty, 
excitement, hope each day of being better, and a 
desire not to detain my companions, prevented my 
explaining to them my illness, and urged me on ; 
but now I felt too sick to proceed further, and I 
laid down almost certain that I should never, alive, 
leave the poor hut. Then, in the agony of my 
15* 



244 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

Section l heart, I called aloud on the name of one far away — 
my sweet Aluine — one who would watch by my 
side, and would not tire or weary, in striving to 
make me well — one very dear to me, whose friend- 
ship is more precious than life — one who, if I err 
not, bathes, too, her pure, intelligent spirit in 
the deep fount of human affections, and lives in, 
and breathes the same atmosphere of thought 
and feeling as myself. In delirious dreams of her, 
and in intense pain, I passed the long hours ; but, 
ere my companions slept, I made them promise 
that if any thing serious happened to me on the 
journey, they would send this, my journal, to our 
consul in cara Genova, that he and his dear family 
with whom I had passed so many happy months in 
enchanting Italy, might know my fate. Oh, how 
sad was the thought that I might die amid stran- 
gers. It recalled vividly to mind the melancholy 
fate of my only and very dear brother, and that 
kind and tender expression I had often heard from 
the lips of the Hindoos — " May you die amongst 
your kindred." Thus passed my first night on the 
banks of the Phasis. 

Homoepa- 26th. Wednesday night, as I have said, passed 
sadly enough away, and when in the morning I 
saw my companions making preparations to start, 
I felt that I could not accompany them. Aroused, 
however, by the idea of being left sick, in such 



thy. 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 245 

a wretched place, I resorted to my Homcepathic Sectiow l 
medicine, with which I had provided myself, and 
in a few hours dragged myself to the boat. The 
rain had ceased, but a heavy wind was against us 
and we made very slow progress, keeping near the 
irregular, reedy banks so as to avoid the current. 
Rocked by the boat, wrapped in my cloak and 
soothed by my medicine, I fell asleep under our 
bark tent, and continued thus till midday, when the 
violence of the wind obliged us to stop. We had 
made but very little headway during the morning 
toil, and now fastened our boat to the limb of a 
tree, and disembarked where the sun lay pleasantly, 
and had dried the earth and the leaves wet by the 
late rain. Our cloaks, carpets, provisions &c. were 
soon brought up the bank, the under brush was 
cut away, a fire built, and arrangements were made 
for eating and sleeping. A dense forest encircled 
us, and except the rushing of the wind, there 
reigned that same deep stillness which filled the 
primeval age. 

Over our heads rocked a huge tree that had been Falling 

Tree. 

partly undermined by the washing away of the 
bank. Its head, gray and bare, arose high above 
all the others, and its thousand branches creaked 
to the blasts. A hundred children had grown up 
around it and linked their tender arms with those 
of their aged parent, as if striving to support and 



24,6 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 



Sectiom l retain him always among them ; but the tempest, 
was too strong ; his time had come, and after trem- 
bling an instant, as if struggling with his fate, he 
yielded to the elements, and with a groan, a terrific 
crash, his branches stretched aloft as if in supplica- 
tion, he swept with frightful force through the air, 
and in an instant was buried in the stream. It af- 
forded me a pleasing reflection, even though I felt 
that I might myself be soon cast into the same 
waters, but without any kindred to lend aid to 
save me. 

The group we formed — our Mingrelians — the 
tall figure of the colonel, clad in half-military, 
half-barbaric dress, some reclining, some stalking 
to and fro, all well armed ; the forest, the river ; 
the boat, — would have made a pleasing subject for 
a picture, though to me all was alike gloomy. 
Encamp- Towards evening an attempt was made to pro- 

ment. . . 

ceed, but it was in vain; and we soon returned to 
pass the night on the spot from which we started. 
There a fire was again built, and our men prepared 
their supper, which consisted of dried fish and 
boiled millet, while my companions laid themselves 
on the ground. I remained on board, passing 
another night in the fire of a fever and with cruel 
throbbing of my head. 

This morning at six o'clock all came on board, 
and we got under weigh and proceeded on for three 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 247 

hours with considerable success, but a sudden turn Sectiow l 
in the river brought us in face of the wind, which 
with the rapid current, numerous snags &c, caused 
us again to stop and land. The medicine that I 
took last night has somewhat abated my fever, but 
I am yet too ill to enjoy even being on these 
romantic, historic-wreathed banks ; yet I sit down 
by the side of a native of the land, — all of our 
company having gone in search of a house, which 
the boatmen say is not far off, — to write up my 
journal, my illness having interrupted that duty for 
a day or two. 

When my companions returned, they were ac- 
companied by a Caucasian, who brought two 
chickens, a boy and a dog. He had a long two 
edged cama at his belt, a gun swung at his back, 
and was altogether a rude, but a well clad and 
manly specimen of the genus homo. Two of the 
boatmen swung the kettle to cook their millet, 
the two others roasted the fowl on the points of 
sticks a la mode .kalg, while the young Georgians 
struck off into the forest in search of English 
walnuts, which abound here, and which they found. 
We had encamped on a spot somewhat cleared and 
that evidently had been inhabited by those who 
knew the value of wine, for enormous grape vines, 
like those at Pitsunda, were growing near every 
tree, and twining themselves with every branch. 



248 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 



Section I. 



As far as my health would permit, I wandered 
On Shore, about in search of some signs of an ancient ed- 
ifice, a temple, dwelling or anything interesting, 
but was wholly unsuccessful. 

During our stay, three more natives joined our 
company for awhile. They were all armed like 
the one last mentioned, were of fine stature, hand- 
some, and looked as if they might grace a palace. 
They wore the hood and Circassian bourka, and 
at a little distance, had an extremely threatening 
appearance; but on a nearer view, they appeared 
without shoes and not very cleanly. Their gait 
was like that of our Indians. 
Evening. Again on our way, evening came in as calm as 
sleep. Not a breath of air was stirring. The 
willows drooping from the verdant banks hung 
their slender leaves in the water; wild fowl were 
floating about us ; a mellow sunset threw a pleas- 
ant light over the scene, and for the first time, the 
Phasis looked like the fair fabled stream of which 
I had read. 

At nine o'clock our boat was fastened by poles 
to a muddy bank, so steep that we found it difficult 
to ascend. Above it we arrived at a kind of farm 
house, and near it a guest house in which we were 
allowed to make ourselves at home, and where we 
were heartily welcomed by the proprietor. A fire 
was built in the centre of the room, and tea was 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 249 

made, which, refreshed us all. Our host, a noble Secti °* l 
looking Caucasian, made us millet cake, and would 
have done more to cheer us, but my companions 
chose to sleep. I did not join them in this, for as 
we were to start again at midnight, I preferred 
walking or sitting on a bench, reserving my repose 
till a cleaner place could be found. 

I hope to be able to decipher my pencillings now, 
made by this dim fire-light. At twelve o'clock 
I awakened the nappers and we were soon affloat ; 
then I fell into a sound, refreshing sleep, which 
lasted till broad day-light. Our progress was very 
slow, for thousands of snags, truuks of trees and 
branches projected from the water and the banks, 
which we carefully avoided, though we kept always 
near the shore to enable the men to push the boat 
along with poles, and to use only occasionally their 
paddles. During the forenoon, we came to another 
halt and found that we were at the residence of 
one of our boatmen, who seemed to have selected 
the spot because there was no one else to occupy it. 
After ascending the high bank he conducted us 
a distance of about an eighth of a mile, across a 
very level piece of ground covered with short grass 
and overshadowed by huge walnut trees, at whose 
roots grew the grape vine, and whose branches 
supported its thousand of shoots. On arriving 
at his home where were two huts made of hewn 



250 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 



Section I. 



planks, we were led to the unoccupied guest-house 
— there being several women in the other — the 
boatman's wife and sisters — which of course ex- 
cluded us from its hallowed precincts, without espe- 
cial license. Here we prepared our usual dinner 
aided by our officious host, and then started again ; 
but the violence of the wind obliged us to return. 
We were now permitted by the courtesy of the 
females themselves, — who, as we were unfortunate 
travellers, yielded something of their national p re- 
Dwell- judices to enter the dwelling house, which I have 
called a hut. It consisted of one room, with only 
the earth for a floor. On each side were wide 
plank divans, which served for beds and seats. 
The walls were about seven feet high and supported 
a pointed roof, without any ceiling, The fire was 
made in the centre of the room, and the smoke 
escaped through the crevices, the planks being far 
apart. There were no windows. 
ACauca- The family whom we found in this primitive 
mily. " establishment, consisted of a mother and two grown 
up daughters, two small children, and a young 
married woman. They all had their faces tied up 
like the Turkish women, leaving nothing of them 
visible except the eyes. We seated ourselves on 
the divan opposite to them, and after a while, 
noticing that we were harmless and unobtrusive, 
they allowed their face-bandages gradually to fall 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 251 

off, and by evening their features were no longer SECTIoy Im 
concealed. The scarf, however, which they had 
used about the face, still remained on the head, 
and was now left to fall carelessly over the breast ; 
but as the neck of the dress was cut something in 
the style of those worn in the time of Louis XVI., 
and left open in front down to the waist, it did not 
wholly conceal that full, enchanting development of 
form which Nature has oftener richly lavished on 
the poor than on the affluent, and which here, from 
being studiously, religiously covered when their 
possessors are abroad, had all the delicacy of the 
lily. Their skirts made of ordinary blue muslin, 
were long, but from the sound of their steps, I 
knew their feet were bare ; and at night, just be- 
fore retiring, when they washed them, which they 
all did with care, I noticed they were dirty and 
not very small. I also observed, and they took 
no great pains to avoid observation, that they 
wore pantaloons of dark calico, which with the 
frock and coarse chemise of bez seemed to con- 
stitute the whole of their costume. The two 
younger, though not pretty, had none of that 
gross vulgar look which so characterises the poor 
Irish and Savoyards I have met with in travelling. 
Nature had endowed them all with a refined and 
intellectual expression, and education and common 
advantages only were wanting to make them truly 



252 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 



SE oyoKi. interesting. The married woman was of better 



form than the others, and had a large oval face 
of a most perfect model, and such as is seldom 
seen except among the Armenians. Her forehead 
though partially covered by her scarf or hand- 
kerchief, was beautifully smooth and white, show- 
ing to great advantage her dark eyebrows, as del- 
icately arched as if executed by a master's pencil. 
Her eyes were large and perhaps brilliant; they 
were at least liquid, from the smoke which con- 
stantly filled the hut. 

The occupation of the family appeared to be 
this: The men are much of the time on the river, 
carrying down produce and passengers; but when 
at home, cultivate the grape, — making a common 
red wine, — planting and gathering millet. In time 
of war, though friendly to the Russians, they 
buckle on their arms, assemble under the banner 
of their clan, and may be seen lighting the watch- 
fires at night, creeping stealthily along some ravine 
to reconnoitre the enemy's lines, or to pick off the 
Giaour with a rifle ball. 

The women, when not occupied in frightening 
the hens and pigs as they rushed in at one door 
and out at another, or in stewing small beans and 
Spinning making millet cakes, are spinning thread. The 
latter occupation is a pastime to them, and they 
work very gracefully. The wife, thus engaged, as 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 253 

she sat on a low stool near the fire, directly oppo- SECTI0N L 
site me — a position she had taken early in the 
evening — had thrown off something of the timidi- 
ty with which he had at first welcomed us, though 
she could not overcome a pleasing diffidence which 
accompanied all she did, before so many strange 
guests. She held the flax high up in her left hand, 
causing the sleeve to fall back from the arm — 
delicately and fairly turned, and gracefully curved, 
so as to carry the thread over to the right side, 
where the right hand had come up to meet it after 
giving the bobbin the necessary twirl. When the 
two were beautifully wreathed over her head, she 
never neglected to look out archly from under 
them. It was but a glance, and modesty instant- 
ly drew the long lashes over those lights of the 
soul, which an instant sufficed to show, were il- 
lumined by other thoughts than those her task 
induced. But, lest you should fall in love with 
this picture, let me add that she wiped her nose 
with her sleeve. Here were poverty, ignorance 
and natural loveliness, which excused much. At 
least, I felt sad that the lot of such a creature was 
cast in such a wilderness. 

To bake the millet, a large stone two feet in Custom* 
diameter, hewn into the form of a dish, was turned 
bottom up over the fire and heated. The dough 
was then put into it, and covered over with green 



254 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

sbchowl } ea y eg? on the top of which, were piled live coals. 
In this rude way, we were soon supplied with 
an agreeable addition to our boiled chicken, as 
we sat down about eight o'clock in the evening 
to eat supper, with wooden spoons and our fingers. 
Here, also, we found the jar of wine a necessary 
accompaniment; for whatever may be the poverty 
of the people, they do not seem to think that 
water is made to drink; it was always brought 
however, to wash in; the custom of bathing the 
hands before meals being universal. The want 
of a table was supplied by a long, clean board 
kept for the purpose. This was placed on low 
stools before us, and on it before each person, was 
deposited a huge piece of the cake. Pieces of boil- 
ed mutton were passed around in the same way, and 
finally the famed Circassian drink, the boza, made of 
fermented millet seed and honey, yet anything but 
palatable. Soon after supper, all but myself and 
Madame, retired to rest on the hard divans covered 
solely by mats, no one taking off any article of 
clothing. The two unmarried girls and mother 
v lay near the door, with the two children at their 
feet. The husband and wife came next, she placing 
herself between him and the wall. He fell asleep, 
however, before she laid down; for, confident I 
should find but little repose, I did not hurry to 
my dubious bed, and she, not thinking it polite 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 255 

to leave a guest alone, remained up. Fearing that S * CTI °* L 
I might weary her, I soon spread my cloak, took 
off my boots and threw myself upon the planks. 
The fire still burned on the floor, and gave the only 
light which had illuminated the dingy apartment ; 
but after the fair Mingrelian had bathed her feet 
and ensconced herself behind her lord and master 
it became faint, and the next I saw was that of 
Saturday morning. 

All the family seemed now quite contented with 
our presence, and I doubt not if we had remained 
a few days with them, we could have suggested 
and made so many improvements in their method 
of living that they would have been loath to part 
with us. As it was, they accompanied us to the 
banks of the stream after we had breakfasted with 
them, and remained there and watched us till we 
were out of sight. As the weather was still 
boisterous, the wife showed much anxiety for the 
welfare of her husband, and as we pushed off into 
the stream, she seemed to be lost in prayer. It 
was a strangely mild and touching scene to as- 
sociate with the wilderness that was around us. 

In the afternoon we arrived at the house of 
another of our boatmen. Here we were im- 
mediately presented to the family, w T hich consisted 
of two women, a little girl and numberless little 
children. Each of the former had their foreheads 



256 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 



Sectiok I. 



partly concealed, but they did not cover any other 
portion of the face. The beauty of the mistress 
of this dwelling, which was in all respects like the 
last described, again struck me with astonishment, 
and on remarking it to my Georgian colonel, he 
said : — " You will find all the women here, — even 
the very poorest, — extremely handsome." Her 
form and features were exactly those which I con- 
ceive must have been the models of those ancient 
Grecian statues, which have through so many 
ages fascinated the world by their harmony and 
justness of proportions — that undefinable union of 
perfections which can be felt but never analyzed. 

From what people, I asked myself a hundred 
times, can these poor, barefooted creatures have 
descended to have inherited such beauty. Their 
origin, indeed, is mere conjecture. Some for vari- 
ous good reasons suppose them to be of Egyptian, 
while others are confident they are of Grecian 
progenitors. From their classic features I should 
incline to the latter opinion, but from their early 
history, manners and habits, I should believe in the 
former. There are some arguments, too, in favor 
of their Persian origin, which, if I deemed it in 
keeping with a work of this kind, I should be 
glad to bring forward; but I have already, in 
several places, gone, I fear, too far into historic 
detail to make those portions of the book interest- 
ing to the general reader. 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 257 

The family received us without embarrassment, Sectiow j 
and I may say with grace and seeming satisfaction, 
and made immediate preparations, in their rude 
way, to give us something to eat. The master 
of the house was about forty years of age, ex- 
tremely homely, and severe looking ; while the 
most docile and interesting expression — in perfect 
accordance with her small, delicate form and classic 

face — characterised this Imeretian Venus, his youth- Imeretian 

' J Venus. 

ful wife. The latter was holding a little child in 
her arms as we entered. She gazed intently on 
us for an instant, then bowed her head very low? 
slowly and solemnly, as a salutation. She then 
stood gracefuly erect, and with that natural deli- 
cacy which prompts all women on whom Nature 
has stamped her unmistakable seal of refinement, 
to conceal certain portions of their person, she 
hastened to draw together her dress over the 
right breast, where a large hole had been worn, 
evidently by the infant being carried on that side. 
Her frock was long, made -high in the neck, but 
open thence in front to the waist. When she so 
gathered it up in one place as to satisfy her 
modesty concerning that portion of her bosom, it 
opened widely in the centre. She then hastily 
drew it back again and after trying the experiment 
several times and finding it impossible to cover 

both of Love's lurking places at once, she aban- 
16 



258 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

SBCTI(m L doned affairs to their ordinary course. Her head 
was tied around with a handkerchief, from under 
which her dark hair fell in long braids down to 
her girdle. The head-dress, pantaloons, and blue 
cotton frock appeared to be all the articles of dress 
she had on. When told by the colonel that she 
was pretty, she hid her face in her hands and 
laughed immoderately. Her husband and sister-in- 
law, the other woman present, appeared of another 
race ; but I could not learn of what ; none of them 
could read or write. The little boys and girls pat- 
ting about the earth floor, had plenty of rags on 
their shoulders, but their legs were naked. A 
cradle attracted my attention. It consisted of a 
short board swung to a horizontal pole, supported 
at each end by upright sticks. On this cradle was 
lashed another contented baby. I must not forget 
the sweet, active, little creature, about twelve years 
of age, who mixed the millet-dough for the cake, 
and then attended the baking. She was beautiful, 
like her own eldest sister, and was offered to me as 
a present if I would take her with me — her bro- 
ther-in-law, our boatman, seeing the admiration 

An Offer. w ^h which I regarded her. He said that as there 
was a large and growing family of them, and as 
they were very poor, they would willingly part with 
her, believing that she would be infinitely better 
off if I would condescend to be her protector than 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 259 

she could be if she remained there : for, continued Section r 
he : " what can she expect — what is there to look 
forward to, but to become the wife of some poor 
rude boatman like myself, and always live in po- 
verty. He would not sell her, he said, for he was 
not like most of the Circassians, but he would give 
her to me if I would be kind to her. 

After our repast we again put off, but the snags Encamp- 

, t , , TT , mentin 

increased, and our progress was slow. We reach- imeretia. 
ed, however, the district of Imeretia, and at night 
again halted and went on shore. There were no 
houses. We made a fire in the edge of the forest, 
boiled some eggs, and after an hour or so sitting in 
the smoke, my companions laid themselves on the 
ground and went to sleep. I returned and remain- 
ed in the boat, it being a better shelter for me than 
the woods. 

28th. Almost recovered from my severe illness, 
with thankful and cheerful heart, my steps are still 
eastward, though my thoughts hourly turn back to 
those left far behind me. Neighboring mountain 
scenery now begins to give new interest to our 
journey. The Georgian range of the Caucasus rises 
on our left, snow-capped, and towering loftily; 
while on our right, approaching the stream, are 
some gentle wooded hills and valleys overtopped by 
the Turkish Alps, which, though appearing near, 

are scores of leagues distant. 
16* 



260 TOUR TO THE CAD CASUS. 

Seotios L At ten o'clock in the morning we again disem- 
barked on account of a strong wind, and remained 
all day on the bank, in the edge of the woods. One 
of our men started off, and in a few hours returned 
with several natives, who brought us fowl and eggs. 
These Imeretians neither wear hat nor cap, but in- 
stead, a thick circular piece of woollen cloth notch- 
ed out at the sides, about the size of one's two 
hands, fastened by a string passed under the chin. 
In other respects their dress and arms are like those 
of the Circassians already described. 

My Georgian companion says that all the people 
in this neighborhood are thieves and plunderers, 
and that the officers of their government are the 
same. While expressing his indignation we were 
startled by footsteps, and a native rushing through 

A Hawk, the forest in pursuit of a lamed hawk passed by. 
He soon returned, and in deepest sorrow, related his 
loss. " It would be worth," said he, " two hundred 
rubles, as they are easily trained to catch the phea- 
sant which abounds here ; but fortune is only with 
the Giaour." 

A tribe of the Lesghians, we are told, are in our 
neighborhood. They are deemed the most wake- 
ful, watchful, and treacherous of all the moun- 
taineers. Their district is nearer the Caspian where 
they united with several other tribes about seven- 
teen years ago — tribes they were formerly at war 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 261 

with, and have consequently become to the Mus- SECTI0?f J 
covites very formidable enemies. Their villages, I 
am told, unlike most others, are generally protect- 
ed by stone towers which have in them small aper- 
tures through which the soldier guard showers ar- 
rows and balls on the invaders. Colonel CarganofF 
was a prisoner among them for six months. He 
had for the whole time scarcely food enough to 
maintain life ; no clothes, and only a mat to lie on. 

Much of the land along this region of the Phasis 
belongs to a Madam Gamba — an inheritance from 
her father, once a French consul, who, at a mere 
nominal value purchased it for the wood that grew 
on it. The daughter is now extremely rich, and 
lives like a princess near Cutais, a village in our 
route. 

Along these banks, as on the Ganges, there are 
no stones ; they are as scarce as are the ordinary 
comforts of life ; and, I would here add, that all 
persons not used to exposure and hardships, had 
better avoid this journey. If, however, one could 
be sure of fair winds and weather, and had beds 
and provisions, and pleasant companions with him, 
he might find it one of the most fascinating trips 
the world can afford. I can imagine, too, that I 
might very easily become attached to this people, 
their wild country and their simplicity of life. I 
should like to stay awhile at one of these native 



262 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

aECTI0y L houses, and fix it up, as we, Yankees, say — build 
a chimney to it ; turn out the hogs, hens, children, 
chickens, dogs and dirt; make a neat flower gar- 
den, in front or rear, surrounded by a neat fence ; 
have chairs, tables, beds, and candles in the room, 
and teach its occupants to endure neatness, and 
suffer comfort. 

29th. Started this morning at early light without 
breakfast. Our men worked hard against the 
stream till night, when we arrrived at a village, as 
they called it, consisting of three huts. In one of 
these, occupied by two old, very large, rough-look- 
ing men and a pet goose, we found shelter, some 
wine, eggs, and a fire. After our repast — the only 
one during the day — -my companions laid down on 
the board seats, and I went on board the boat to 
sleep. 

The scenery during the day had been more pic- 
turesque than usual. The Radjinsky mountains 
arose around us, and the shores were mOre variegat- 
ed in their verdure and outline. 
A Lesghi- When twilight was gathering over the valley a 
fiery horse swept along the banks, and halted as he 
came opposite us. He did not stop of his own 
accord, but his rider, a Lesghian chief, drew in the 
rein, and beckoned us to land. The colonel know- 
ing this people too well to trust them, ordered the 
boatmen to continue. The horseman gazed a few 



an. 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 263 

moments at us, then whirled his beast suddenly SE<mo * L 
around and dashed into the forest. The boatmen 
nodded their heads knowingly, and seemed to think 
he might return with a reinforcement, but we saw 
no more of him. He knew we were not Russians. 

30th. Still on the Rion ! Long shall I remember A Picture, 
the fatigues of this tour. In starting this morning, 
one of the huge old men, with whom we supped 
last night, came down to the landing, got into his 
canoe and paddled after us. He continued thus a 
short distance, then struck off to the opposite shore. 
His giant form looked strangely enough as he stood 
in the frail, diminutive skiff. It did not fail to 
recall the fables of Charon crossing the Stygian 
ferry ; and I shall as soon forget one as the other. 

About eleven o'clock, the day being exceedingly Fight on 

Shore. 

fine, three of the Georgians and our servant walked 
on shore, being fatigued by long confinement to the 
boat. The servant being in advance saw some eight 
or ten men sitting around a fire. He approached 
them and asked the distance to the village of 
Marane, when they immediately attacked him with 
clubs. He resisted till his master came up, when 
part of them fled into the woods, while one or two 
remained and fought for some time against the old 
gentleman and the young man, the former of whom 
was armed with a stick, and the latter with a Cir- 
cassian knife. Those of us in the boat were push- 



264 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

SlCTI<m L ed along so close under the bank, which was high, 
that we were unable to see the contest ; but as 
soon as we heard the noise we jumped on shore, 
and climbing to the plateau, were in a moment 
on the battle field. At my belt was a revolver, 
which I had donned immediately on leaving the 
Euxine ; the colonel solicited its use. I handed it 
to him, but ere he could get an opportunity to dis- 
charge it, our enemies had all disappeared. Ex- 
ceedingly enraged, the old official rolled out volumes 
of indignant words against the Lesghhie ; then 
seizing a large earthen jar of wine which had been 
left by the worsted party, he proceeded to put out 
the fire with it, then smashed the vessel on the heap 
and departed. Whether any of the enemy were 
wounded or not I could not learn, but my young 
friend with the knife seemed to think that he had 
killed a considerable number of them. The object 
of their attack might have been to plunder our 
boat ; but I was disposed to think that the quarrel 
arose from some impudence of the servant soldier. 
It was, however, to say the least, unpleasant to 
meet with such company in these forests. 

After this I continued on shore with my friends, 
and as we walked fast, it seemed that we should 
soon reach the base of some lofty mountains in the 
distance, southward. In remarking it to the colo- 
nel, he said : — " We shall not reach them to-day, 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 265 

for they are about a hundred miles off; but they SectionI - 
have a peculiar interest to me, for I received this 
decoration which I always wear, for storming those 
very heights in 1828. I fought, too, in the trenches 
for twenty-four hours, and we won the whole of 
this intervening country ; but when victory was 
ours, I fell to the earth from extreme exhaustion, 
and was left for some time as dead." 

We passed a large number of swine. The Swine * 

owner went before and called them, and they 

hurried after him ; but he did not trust solely to 

their natural affection for him, and so had a man 

to follow, lest some of them should make detours 

on their own private account. Soon they were 

driven down the bank and into the river ; then 

one little one was seized and tied into a boat with 

the drivers, who paddled out after the herd. The 

little one was then, by pinches and kicks, kept 

squealing so as to frighten those in the water, and 

thus as the boat, with their suffering companion, 

pursued them, they hurried across to the opposite 

shore, where, when safely landed, a calm settled on 

every swinish visage. 

We passed the night, as usual, in a native hut, 
but the evening was enlivened by some music on a 
domestic mandolin and by the voices of our boat- 
men, who, having drank considerable wine, which 
we found very good here, were disposed to be 



266 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

Section l unusually cheerful, and to amuse us by some Ime- 
retian songs. Could our friends have looked in 
upon us they would have laughed heartily at the 
grotesqueness of our group. Some were seated on 
low stools, others on the ground. The fire blazed 
up at times, throwing a vivid light on a dozen 
bearded visages and the silver-mounted weapons 
which their owners wore, and then died out and 
left us almost in darkness. The strong light and 
shade — the whole scene in fact — recalled Rem- 
brandt's celebrated picture of the Manger, where 
one from the East enters the dark and humble 
abode with a lantern. 

Candles are not used here for four reasons : — 
The people have no occupation which requires 
them ; secondly, they rise early ; thirdly, they 
would have an extra expense ; and fourthly, the 
wind, which blows furiously through a hundred 
openings between the planks of the wall, would 
instantly extinguish them. 



SECTION II. 



December 1st. This day has been exceedingly 
pleasant. During the morning we entered among 
wooded hills and cultivated lawns. Gentle aelivi- 
ties diversified the scene, and plains stretched away 
to mountains. I landed and walked along the 
shore, plucked the white grape from the vine which 
twined around many a tree, and gathered the Eng- 
lish walnut on my way; and, for their friendly, 
homely look, the cammomile and the clove, which, 
with some wild flowers, were soon twined into a 
bouquet. The sun shone out brightly ; the season 
was charming ; wild birds covered the stream, and 
cattle grazed on its margin. The huts were nume- 
rous, and the inhabitants were often collected on 
the shore to see us pass, see our costume, and press 
around us when we stopped in their neighborhood ; 
though the women always kept at a modest distance, 
and seldom, at first, showed themselves without 
partially concealing their faces, even though it was 
at the expense of some other and perhaps more 
delicate portion of their person. A number of 



Section II. 



268 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

Sjbctioic II. 



young men passed us bearing on their backs large 
earthen jars swung by straps over their shoulders. 
They were carrying to the village market the wine 
they had themselves made of the grapes gathered 
from their own vines. 
A Walk to We were approaching the town of Marane, where 

Marane. ... 

it was our intention to leave the river and take to 
land carriage ; and thinking ourselves not distant 
from the place, my colonel proposed a walk to it. 
I at once assented, for there was variety and novelty 
in it ; so, taking our servant with us, we started off. 
After a few hours' walk, and many times fearing 
that we had lost our way, we came to the base of 
those hills which had so pleased me from afar. A 
proximity to them did not belie their distant flattery. 
The evergreen tree and the yellow-leafed one of 
autumn, lively with various merry little chirping 
birds, clothed their sides and shielded the moist 
moss beneath from the thirsty sun. Amid this 
brightness, huge towering dry trunks stood like 
sentinels ; — like sentinels, too, who had stood the 
brunt of time's fiercest strokes for half a thousand 
of years.- Our way, at last, lay through a thick 
forest of heavy timber, where silence seemed eternal. 
In an hour or so, however, we heard the cheerful 
sounds of a woodman's axe, and we hurried on to 
learn of him if we were pursuing the right course. 
Our haste availed nothing, for he seemed always at 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 269 

the same distance. We then sent off the servant in SEm(m il 
search of him. After travelling a long time in the 
direction of the sound he returned, and with a kind 
of superstitious awe, and looking cautiously about 
him, said, that if there was a cutter there that he 
was invisible, or that he might be miles off, and far 
down in the deep recesses of the valley below, and 
that it was useless to seek Jiim — that he perhaps 
had only been pursuing an echo, the cause of 
which might be on the opposite side of the mount- 
ain. An hour more brought us to the poor, mean 
little village of Marane, or more properly Orpiri ; 
the former name belonging to a collection of huts 
six versts beyond this, which has allowed the Orpi- 
rians to assume their name. 

Arriving at the shore, we hired an Imeretian to 
take us over the river in his skiff, as on the oppo- 
site side resided the Russian officers of government, 
we having now come under the direct power of the 
czar, this portion appertaining to his new con- 
quests in the south. We went at once to the A Russian 

Captain. 

house of the captain of the troops, two hundred 
and fifty in number. It was a one story, wooden, 
neat little dwelling, having four rooms, about 
twelve feet square, two in front and two back, 
lighted by very small panes of glass. We passed 
his ante-chamber, where waited a soldier servant, 
who ushered us into the presence of his master. 



270 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section if. jj e rece i vec i us politely, though, perhaps, with a 
shade of embarrassment, for there was also present 

A Gruz- one of the lovely creatures of the Phasis, which I 
insky. 

have had occasion several times to mention. She 
was neatly but plainly dressed, and her feet and 
face were uncovered. On her head was a low 
crimson cap, over which was thrown a handker- 
chief, while her dark hair fell richly about her still 
richer shoulders. With long eye-lashes veiling her 
large lustrous eyes, cast modestly on the floor, she 
bowed most reverentially, as is the custom of the 
country, and then left the room, to remain in the 
ante-chamber till we took our leave. Was she the 
officer's wife ! We did not ask ; but as foreigners 
seldom marry these natives, we supposed she might 
be his arnica. We could readily believe that he 
loved her, and readily suppose that she would 
prefer him to one of the rude boatmen of her own 
country. 

The captain ordered coffee, but it was very 
unpalatable stuff. After a short time, hearing that 
our boat was in sight, we returned to the shore to 
congratulate and welcome our companions. On 
their landing it suggested itself to some one that 
we were hungry, as we had had nothing to eat all 
day, so we at once went among the huts, some 
sixty or eighty, a regular row of one story plank 
houses (by courtesy), and shops running parallel 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 271 

with the stream, and found a diminutive grocery Section n: 
store, and in it a room which was engaged for a 
day or two as our quarters. There, with some mi- The Vii- 
serable wine, coarse bread, and good cold chicken its accom- 
that we had cooked ourselves, we made a very t ions, 
hearty and acceptable meal. The whole building 
could hardly be twenty feet square, yet it was de- 
voted to five different purposes. In the centre there 
was a passage way leading to a door in front, and 
to another, back, where a horse was kept. On one 
side was a little counter on which cheese, wine and 
bread were sold. Opposite to it was a store of dry 
goods. Behind the latter was an open space where 
the fire was built; — behind the former was our 
room, about eight feet square, furnished with a 
table, and two benches for beds. Its floor was such 
as the deluge might have left there; and its en- 
trance was a square hole cut so low down that one 
had to bend nearly double to get in at it. From the 
passage way it looked like a retreat for pigs, and a 
view of the interior did not dispel the impression. 
Dark and dirty as it was, no better could be had — 
the captain and governor's apartments being fully 
occupied by their own families. 

Towards evening we left our pen and sauntered Scenery 

at Orpiri. 

through the village and along the stream, as 
though we had not had enough of it. Marane 
stands on a high, level bank, commanding toward 



272 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section ii. ^ e sou thward a view of some brown and purple 
hills, and just over their tops the snow-coated 
heights of that range of mountains which form 
now the northern boundary of the Turkish and 
Persian empires. In an opposite direction, the 
beautiful and grand pyramidal peaks of the Cau- 
casus tower seventeen thousand feet into the clear, 
blue atmosphere of heaven. 

Eunuch. A little isolated from the town stands a collec- 
tion of neat little houses, twenty or thirty in num- 
ber, occupied by a sect of Russian soldiers, who vo- 
luntarily, for religion's sake, I was told, have un- 
dergone a strange degradation which deprives them 
of the character of men. Their appearance is that 
of people in ill health, though in stature they equal 
their neighbors. The latter, however, hold them 
in great contempt, though as regards their habits 
of industry, cleanliness, and in the general good ap- 
pearance of their dwellings, their gardens, fences, 
&c., they have here no equals. It is, indeed, well 
that they are possessed of some redeeming quality 
which allows them a habitation, for they are des- 
pised for foregoing the Mussulman's paradise in 
this world, and for standing so poor a chance for it 
in the next. 

The Peo- The people here are, generally, quite destitute ; 

pie at 

Orpiri. yet grouped together the effect is novel, and one 
can hardly divest himself of the idea that he is ac- 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 273 

tually gazing on some scenic fiction. The Imere- Sbction 3I 
tians, Guriels in ragged garb, the Cossack in silver 
costume, and the mountaineer with his short 
bourka, glittering .waepons in his belt, and gun 
at his back, are, at this moment, talking earnestly 
together, opposite my own door, and afford me the 
picture I now sketch. 

2d. I slept soundly on my plank bed, for my Our Host 
walk had wearied me ; but was awakened before 
light by the landlord splitting wood at our thresh- 
old. Soon up, I sat on a low stool by a fire 
kindled on the ground, and for two hours, till my 
companions joined me, was enveloped in smoke 
which seemed to find no place of escape. We 
then proceeded in search of horses, and had the sa- 
tisfaction to learn that we should soon be en route. 
Occupied in getting our luggage off, the morning 
passed, and we received an invitation to dine with 
the governor. We were obliged to decline, but 
called on him and were served with a good lunch 
and nice wine. His house is of one story, rudely 
made, and the best in town. He himself, a small 
slim man, advanced in life, wearing his full uni- 
form, received us with much frankness. The walls 
of his sitting room were ornamented with common 
engraved portraits of each member of the emperor's 
family, and with long Turkish pipes for visitors. 
Children occasionally stuck their heads in at the 
17 



2?4 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section n. ^ 00t ^ w hi c h led me to suppose our host to be mar- 
ried ; but how a man who had been accustomed 
to good society, one who had seen much of the 
world, and for two score years had battled for his 
country — in ten engagements had fought side by 
side with my colonel — how, or why he should be 
condemned to endure such an isolated life I could 
not imagine. Perhaps he was too ambitious, and 
was requested to take charge of this unimportant 
place — for the emperor understands perfectly how 
to bestow his favors so as to separate the elements 
of discontent — or there might be some native at- 
traction here which we did not see. The repast 
ended, he embraced and kissed us, and gave us a 
bottle of old wine to cheer us on our way ; and, I 
doubt not, it will be of more comfort to us than the 
blessing of half a hundred temperance societies; 
for, on the borders of a land our Saviour has hal- 
lowed by his footsteps — surrounded by a people 
whose simple lives require none of the restraints 
imposed by such institutions, but rather recall to 
mind the early apostles of the Church ; we cannot 
but feel that, should we refuse the generous offer of 
" generous wine," we should aspire to be more holy 
than our High Priest himself — worthy of all ado- 
ration ! — who made wine and drank, and gave it 

Temper to those whom he loved. Here, too, I must speak 
of what I have constantly noticed, and admired and 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 275 

approved, — the temperance habits of all nations I Section n - 
have been among, where wine is the common drink 
of all, and the restraints and enforcements of tem- 
perance societies are not known ; for they, though 
their aim is high and holy, humane and generous, 
produce on the masses, as do the abolitionists in 
the northern states of America, exactly the oppo- 
site effect to that intended. The kindness of the 
governor educed some questions from the Geor- 
gian : " I have heard," said he, " in St. Petersburg, 
that owing to temperance societies, the Americans 
dare not drink what they like, and that even the 
laws prohibit the sale of all kinds of liquors ; and 
yet," continued he with a contemptuous smile, 
" you call it a land of liberty." I had to confess to 
him that it was partially true ; and that some of 
our legislative bodies had been so ignorant of the 
most common of human rights — so bigoted, so 
stupid, so daring or ambitious, that they had even 
attempted to make the purchasing and use of spir- 
ituous liquors a criminal affair. He looked at me 
with utter astonishment and incredulity ; for, as a 
man who had seen much of the world, and conse- 
quently having none of those narrow prejudices 
which generally trammel the judgment of all who 
are confined to one set of people and things, he 
could not imagine how a government that called it- 
self enlightened, should even think of, much less 
17* 



276 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section ii. assume the right to dictate to others what they 
should eat and drink. He asked the effect of tem- 
perance societies on the community. I told him 
what I had seen myself, and what I really believed 
— that more was drank in secret than would be 
openly, if not prohibited — a vast deal more than 
in any country I had ever been in, where it was not 
considered degrading, except to drink too much — 
that people drank it slyly, after their visitors were 
gone perhaps, or skulked into by-places as though 
they were doing something niggardly or wrong. 
He again manifested his unbelief. As to myself, I 
could not realize that men were ever ashamed to 
drink what, and when, and where they pleased; 
and wondered at any forbearance extended to a le- 
gislature that presumed to violate the common sense 
and sacred rights of freemen. 
From Ma- On returning, having found our horses ready we 
Hoenv. a ^ once started off. The road was good and level, 
and leaving the Rion* on our right we sped away 
over cultivated plains, and in two and a half hours 
Carts, were at the little village of Hoeny. On our way we 
passed several of those priemval vehicles seen in 
all their perfection in the island of Sardinia, whose 
peculiarity is in their enormous solid wheels made 
of thick plank firmly strapped together ; but that 

* The present name of the Phasia. 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 277 

^hich more particularly won our attention and ad- Section n - 
miration was the novel appearance and horseman- 
ship of a party of Circassian equestrians of both Equestri- 
ans, 
sexes whom we met on their leaving a by-path 

leading to the mountains. There was a bold care- 
lessness in the sitting of the men, and a confident 
grace in that of the women which could only be ac- 
quired by long habit and great native energy. The 
costume of the males was such as I have already 
described; the guns swung to their backs being 
cased in coarse cloth. The females rode astride of 
the horses as did the men ; and here their panta- 
loons — which all eastern women wear — were ex- 
tremely serviceable to them ; for while they served 
to conceal their legs and partially their ankles, they 
made the foot appear lovelily small. Over their 
shoulders they wore a kind of short cloak, though 
in this they differed ; and one was so muffled up 
that she looked like an equestrian mummy. 

Mingrelia, along which we have just passed, and Prince 

. ., Dadian. 

its people belong by right of heritage to a noble 
and generous man, Prince Dadian. Only nomi- 
nally does he own and govern this territory now, ac- 
knowledging the protection of Russia. But so long 
as he does not interfere with the will of the czar 
in these regions, he will probably be allowed to en- 
joy a species of sovereignty, besides his well-culti- 
vated and elegant estate in the neighborhood of 



278 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section ii. Redout-Kale. He will, doubtless, retain during 
life his present position, for he is well aware of the 
power of his neighbors, the value of their friend- 
ship ; and is too politic to provoke their anger. 

Hoeny is one of those lone, quiet, inland villages 
of several hundred houses, where very little bustle 
is expected, no display of wealth or refinement, and 
where people are contented to abide in obscurity, if 
freed from the anxieties, cares, and excitements 
which disturb the dwellers of a metropolis. The 
houses are all low and mean, usually fenced in 
from the street by unhewn sticks ; yet the vine so 
envelopes not a few, that one can easily imagine 
them the enticing retreats of lovers. Indeed, now 
and then a white arm glistened among the dark 
foliage, and a gentle form was lost in its shadows. 

Caucasus. We here attached six horses to our carriage, and 
new along with more than ordinary rapidity. All 
the country we now passed through was heavily 
timbered. The snowy Caucasus kept pace with us 
on our left, and on the right the Ararat Alps. 
We were approaching the high land of Imeretia. 
"We climbed to the summits of some that had so 
pleased me in the distance, from which we caught 
a glimpse of the setting sun. An hour brought 
us into the depths of a gloomy valley, and in an 
hour more, we were driving "like mad" up one 
of the steepest, rockiest passes the country could 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 279 , 

afford, winding along the edge of a cliff that over- Si5C7I0W n 
looked the town of Cutais, and the Bion, at which 
we had again arrived. The ascent was, however, 
too abrupt and dangerous, and we were obliged to 
dismount. A long, and on account of the darkness, 
difficult walk succeeded, which brought us to the 
valley, where, after passing the river by a lofty and 
strong stone bridge, we entered a quaint-looking 
old place, the most flourishing between the Euxine 
and the capital of Georgia. The Phasis is here a 
narrow, swift stream, roaring over a rocky bed, and 
its course from the mountains to this point, and 
some little further, is nearly due south. 

Cutais had presented an extremely odd appear- 
ance. The houses nearly all low, had very few or 
no windows, and roofs projecting far over the 
street, now obscure and muddy. As we passed 
along, doors were occasionally opened, revealing to 
us by bright lights within, sometimes family groups, 
sometimes a solitary man or woman, but leaving us 
in greater darkness when again closed. 

My colonel had heard that a countryman and A Pleas- 
ant Visit, 
schoolmate of his resided here, and was gratified, 

on enquiry, to learn at once the street of his house, 

for all seemed to know him. It was late when we 

arrived, but we received a hearty welcome from the 

old Georgian, and at the best dwelling we had 

yet seen. Our host was evidently a very rich man. 



280 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

sbotiow ii.! jjis rooms were handsomely furnished with satin 
divans, and many foreign fancy articles, among 
which was a hand-organ. The fireplaces were in 
Turkish style, adorned with carved stones. As the 
highest compliment he could pay us, he ordered his 
sons — young men about twenty and twenty-five 
years of age — to serve us. They immediately 
brought sweet cakes, and tea in tumblers. In 
about an hour, supper was prepared in an adjoin- 
ing room. The peculiarity of the apartment was 
its carved, painted and gilded ceiling, with a 
pyramidal concavity in the centre, all a la Turque. 
We found a long table loaded with roast fowls, fried 
meats, apples, pears, grapes, and five or six kinds of 
excellent table wines, all made on the estate. 

The host rising, drank to the health of his 
guests. It seemed to be a kind of solemn and 
religious ceremony, to ask thus, over a full goblet 
of wine, a blessing on those who had come to enjoy 
his hospitality. After the repast, beds were made 
up for us on sofas and divans, furnished with clean 
sheets and handsome coverlets — luxuries we had 
not enjoyed for many weeks. 

3d. Very early, the air being chilly, the servant 
made a fire in our room, and it was to us what the 
Persians call it — the rose of winter. An hour 
sufficed to take me to the summit of a lofty cliff 
which skirts the town to the N. W. There, on the 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 281 

massive walls of an old fortress I enjoyed the rising SECTI0If n 
of the sun, a charming view of hill and vale, and 
far below me, the village where I had slept and 
the plain on which it stands, threaded by the sil- 
very Bion. On this height, however, the most 
interesting objects are the remains of a grand 
cathedral, surrounded by the ruins of the ancient 
Kyta, (Cotatys) supposed to be the birth place of 
the enchantress, Medea. 

The grey, crumbling walls of the old temple of 
religion and the lofty arches from which swung a 
thousand vines, recalled the beauties of Kennil- 
worth Castle, which, when once beheld, never for- 
sake the memory. Looking down on the only pas- 
sage way over the stream to the town, afforded 
much amusement, for the peasants, after scrambling 
over steep rocky ridges around me, mounted on 
their little mules and asses, bearing in huge bas- 
kets and bags, the produce of the country — de- 
scended from the different paths which led to the 
bidge, and there huddled together, displaying al- 
most every variety of garb, moved — a grotesque 
show — towards the busy mart. 

When I again reached the valley I found nearly A Holi- 
day, 
every body abroad. It was a holiday, and officers 

and soldiers, Georgians, Imeretians, Circassians, 
crowded the ways. One rosy-cheeked little Geor- 
gian lass, dressed in full French costume, which 



282 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 



section ii. b ecame h er exceedingly, passed me on foot. Seve- 
ral others I met on horseback, all riding astride, 
and wearing pantaloons, and nearly all so muffled 
up that it was difficult to say they were not home- 
ly. One, at least, was very beautifully attired en- 
tirely in dark satin ; the short cloak about her 
shoulders being trimmed with sable. She was go- 
ing into the country, and I thought that the soft- 
voiced birds and the brilliant wild flowers would 
soon have a rival. I strolled about till I came to 
a place of worship, met there few men, but a num- 
ber of ladies in rich silks, though wearing too 
many gay colors, of which they appear very fond. 
When in the street again, they wrapped the long 
plain white sheet about them, covering themselves, 
like the Turkish women, from head to foot, and 
appeared more like grave-yard subjects, than the 
fair, fascinating companions of our earthly pilgrim- 
age — some of them, perhaps, being gentle lambs 
of the lost sheep of the house of Israel. 

At three, p.m., we were again speeding over hill 
and dale through a wooded and unsettled country. 
Late in the evening we stopped at a post station, 
made tea, and laid ourselves down to rest on the 
plank divans adapted to the rudest natures huma- 
nity has manufactured. 

4th. At day break we found ourselves en route, 
and I was heartily glad ; for I had risen at two 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 283 

o'clock, having had no sleep, owing to the nasal Secti °* n 

music that my neighbors kept up, and numerous 

cats who took particular pains to jump upon me 

from a hole in the wall, hept open probably for 

their amusement. The old gentleman shared my 

fate, and, because he could not enjoy his couch, 

woke up all the others. There was this morning a 

gloominess about the scenery we had not before 

met with. The woods were thicker, and the hills 

bolder than those of yesterday. The Ahalzic range 

looking more sullen than usual, rested in its own 

heavy shadows, as if waiting for day. 

At nine o'clock we overtook a body of Cossacks, Our Pro- 
gress, 
accompanied them to the place where they were 

picketed, and there found a relay of horses. A few 

versts brought us to the banks of a little stream — 

the " sounding stream" mentioned by Pliny — and 

is called the Quarilla. No bridge spanned it ; for 

the mantle of Trajan had not descended upon any 

one in this region, and we were ferried across in a 

flat boat. When part way up the opposite bank, 

our horses found themselves unable to ascend it, 

and allowed the carriage to back rapidly down, till 

we were on the very edge of the landing, from 

which we should have instantly been dashed into 

the water, had not a kind Imeretian thrust a large 

stick under the wheels, which in a second more 

would have been of no avail. We soon entered on 



284 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section h . more pleasing scenery, continuing for thirty or 
forty miles along the very banks of this river, 
sometimes high above it in so narrow a road that 
the giving way of a single half foot of it would 
have precipitated us to depths pleasing to look 
upon, but ruinous to come thus rudely in contact 
with. A little dwelling was now and then to be 
seen nestled in among the cliffs, and occasionally a 
solitary peasant with a long staff climbing or de- 
scending their steep and narrow paths. Goats 
stood out fearlessly on some projecting crag, seem- 
ing conscious of our admiration of their daring. 
In one place a man had the temerity to plough, 
and it really seemed as though oxen, plough and 
driver would soon tumble upon our heads. I 
scarcely think that grain, if planted there, would 
lie in the hills, being of opinion that it would roll 
out. We had frequently to dismount and assist 
our horses up the steep roads, and at ten o'clock 
entered one of the most beautiful passes I ever be- 
held. I could think of nothing to liken it to, bu t 
long parallel ranges of Egyptian temples whose co- 
lumns, painted and twined around with evergreens, 
were, by the distance of the view, harmoniously 
blending with the lofty facade. 

In several places, where the stream at our side, 
was very narrow, a log had been thrown across for 
foot passengers. I saw a child with a basket of 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 285 

fish, and a fisherman pass over one of them at a Sectiow n 

giddy height; and though the little one stepped 

timidly, the old man walked as if on his own 

house floor. 

We were now in the Suram Mountains, which Suram 

Mount- 
connect the Caucasus and the Ahalzic or Ararat ains - 

chain, and separate Imeritia from Georgia. Add- 
ed to the natural grandeur of the scenery were 
some ancient crumbling fortresses, which once con- 
trolled these ravines ; but now, like those of the 
Rhine — donning in their gray and tottering age 
the garlands of youth, the bright wild vines of 
the cliffs which, flaunting in the breeze, give a 
cheerful aspect to decay — seem to have been built 
but to make picturesque by their ruins all the 
inaccessible rocks, and gather from the clouds 
continual dews for their mossy sides, and for the 
streams of the valleys. Here, too, the grape is 
cultivated to some extent, and a very good wine 
produced. The mansion of the Prince of the 
neighborhood was pointed out to me. It was a 
low, wooden building, and differed little from the 
huts around it except in size. The road is gen- 
erally good, and is being improved by the Viceroy, 
who has ordered many new bridges to be con- 
structed, and hills cut away; and doubtless a hun- 
dred years hence, when omnibuses are running 
along here, from the Euxine to the Caspian, this 



286 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

sbctiow ii. re gi on w [\\ De frequented for the same reason the 
Rhine is now. 

Towards evening we hurried rapidly forward, 
as there were too many dangers to allow of our 
proceeding on foot after dark ; and at half past 
seven, stopped at a rather neat little house on 
the banks of the Quarilla. 

TheGeor- 5th. This morning we continued the ascent 
of the mountains and after a few hours reached 
an elevation that was quite chilling. Our com- 
panion-stream had become a foaming torrent. 
Sometimes we crossed it where it had turned to 
ice, at another time we could hear it rushing 
through some deep gorge whose overhanging trees 
concealed it from sight, and along whose rugged 
edge we were coursing. After climbing to the 
summits of the Suram we began our descent on 
their eastern side, and it was but a few hours 
before we reached the valley, crossed the line and 
entered on the beautiful and romantic land of the 
far-famed Georgians — a people, like their neigh- 
bors, the Circassians, Albanians and Armenians, 
proverbial for the splendor of their complexions, 
and for their grace and perfect contour of form, 
but surpassing them all in the depth of the con- 
ceptions and masterly executions of their intrigues. 
This may be the result of their modern position: 
and, in referring to it, I have an opportunity of 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 287 

expressing the unlimited admiration which the SECTI0Iflr 
Georgians, as well as Circassians, have deservedly 
won by the astounding and unequalled bravery 
exhibited in defending their respective countries. 
Georgia, for scores of times, has been overrun by 
fiery clans from the mountains and by well dis- 
ciplined troops from the plains. Two centuries 
ago, Georgia made her last grand stand against 
the whole Persian strength, and after acquitting 
herself with a sublimity of valor which still fires 
the souls of her sons, and has hardly a parallel, 
she yielded, but remained unsubdued, sustaining 
unswervingly, her national spirit. It became how- 
ever, the seat of the Russian war with Persia. 
The inheritance of the sons of the brave Hera- 
clius was wrested from them, Persia acknowledged 
the right of the czar, and Georgia was named 
a Russian province. Soldiers were then, says H. 
Murray, "quartered on the inhabitants, and the 
female sex, whose virtue, made hitherto to depend 
chiefly on the jealous guard kept over it, is said 
to have suffered materially from this intrusion." 
The worthy Eev. Mr. Dwight, missionary to Con- 
stantinople, writing of the character of these peo- 
ple, says: — "But if by morals we refer to the 
social vices, infamous as the Georgians have 
always been known to be for unchastity, it must 
be confessed that they have deteriorated. That 



288 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section ij. d evo tees of lust have multiplied. So great was 
the incontinence of the soldiery, that even Geor- 
gians in the province of Kakheti, were goaded by 
it to an open and desperate rebellion." 
Trees. In the night, snow had fallen in the mountains, 
and we were glad to be again on the low lands. 
I saw many trees which were familiar ; the beech, 
the chestnut, the ash, oak and the pine. The soil, 
too, appeared much richer here than that im- 
mediately on the western side of this range, and 
my companions assured me that it produced in 
great abundance, grain, wine, apples and pears. 

A few versts brought us to the village of Suram, 
composed, I should say, of two hundred hovels 
or huts, all of logs, and built much like those I 
have seen on our western prairies, with the ex- 
ception of the roof, which is here flat. In the 
centre of the plain where it stands, is a singularly 
lofty crag only a few yards in diameter, sur- 
rounded by a fortress now in ruins. Two large 
round stone towers, the colonel informed me, in- 
dicated the residence of the feudal barons, to 
whom the inhabitants were subject, and who, in 
fact, as well as the land, belonged literally to 
them : — that these noblemen formerly had the 
right to sell their subjects, male and female, as 
they, the owners, pleased, but that now, by the 
more just laws of Russia, they could not dispose of 
them except with the land they occupied. 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 289 

A little beyond Suram we came to the banks SECTI °* IL 
of the famed Kur, or Cyrus, which, flowing east- 
ward, enters the Caspian. Here we obtained a 
little pig and had him roasted in one of the native 
huts, while we amused ourselves in taking 
sketches. The men wore the same garb as that 
of the Georgian described at Redout-kale. Of the 
two women we saw, one was short and homely, 
with nothing attractive about her but stocking 
with very broad stripes of bright red and yellow, 
displayed under a very short frock. The other was 
very large and had a remarkably fair complexion; 
but there w^as a heaviness and lack of intelli- 
gence in the face, that counteracted the pleasing 
effect which a fine, delicate skin always produces, 
being, with rare exceptions, accompanied by win- 
ning natural refinement and gentleness of dis- 
position. 

It was in this very village, Colonel Carganoff 
was seized with the plague, in returning with his 
troops from one of those successful expeditions 
against the Turks which I have mentioned. 
Through all the stages of that terrible illness, by 
night and by day, he was attended, and watched 
by a kind stranger, — a lady of a noble but poor 
family. Ah, how near allied to the watchful 
care, the divine patience with which our heavenly 

Father ever regards us, is that exalted benevo- 

18 



290 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section ii. "[ ence which is sometime seen flooding the bosom 
of one of the gentler sex, leading her in a self- 
sacrificing devotion to the cause of humanity, to 
bend unweariedly at the sick couch, where suffer- 
ing hallows and makes sacred the object of her 
solicitude, — being like Mary ready to bathe his 
feet with tears and wipe them with the soft, silky 
folds of her hair ! The colonel remarked that I 
should be presented to this same lady who saved 
him from an early grave, and who I imagine, is 
now his wife; "for," said he, "fearing that I was 
about to die, I often turned my eyes heavenward 
to invoke the aid of the angels; and she was 
always the first of the celestial throng that met 
my gaze, and I soon worshipped her as a minis- 
tering spirit. And though nothing before had 
ever touched or could reach my heart, closed stern- 
ly for a soldier's life, such godlike earnestness for 
my recovery, evinced in all she did, looked or said, 
revealed to me a life I did not know was within 
me, and death only henceforth, could have separ- 
ated me from her." 
Gori. Our next stopping place was Gori, where we ar- 
rived at nine o'clock at night, and it appeared one 
of the most ancient and remarkable towns I had 
ever entered. The streets and dwellings were 
something like those of the Turks, and there was a 
gloomy fortress surmounting a lofty rock, and frown- 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

ing on all around a likeness of Sterling Castle ; and Section il 



when we drove along under its deep shadows, it 
seemed that we were crossing its many creaking 
draw-bridges and entering its solemn dungeons. 
For size, and the importance of its commerce, this 
is the second town in the kingdom ; but my own 
impression of it is extremely unfavorable, and I 
can hardly imagine that either beauty or worth 
could find a resting place there. 

That part of our journey immediately preced- Streams 
ing our arrival at Gori was somewhat dangerous Robbers, 
from two causes. There being no bridges in this 
neighborhood, we were obliged to wade through 
all the streams, and were near being swept away 
by their force. The second, feared, though not 
met with, were the Ocetian robbers, who infest 
this pass, at the base of their mountain homes. 
They form one of the numerous tribes of the Cau- 
casus, and though nominally subdued and friendly 
to Hussia, I am told, are never satisfied, except 
when engaged in successful robberies and plunder- 
ings. So true is this, that a well armed body of 
men — though straggling along carelessly when we 
overtook them- — are kept continually passing to 
and fro here, to protect travellers. The supper we 
ate at Gori consisted of small pieces of veal, which 
a native cooked for us by holding them over a fire 
on the point of a sharp stick. We had, as usual, 
18* 



292 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section it. recourse t our £ ea and aqua vita bottle, and then 
went to sleep on the floor. 

Mtsketa. 6th. This morning we met a train of forty large- 
camels heavily laden with merchandize, from the 
interior, and bound to Cutais. Our first stopping 
place is the interesting, but, at present, very mean 
village of Mtsketa, once the capital of Georgia, 
and, where still repose in the sacred cloisters be- 
fore us, the ashes of her kings. On approaching 
the cathedral — a most venerable and odd looking 
structure — my companions reverently bowed them- 
selves before it, for it was to them a thrice hallow- 
ed spot — the abode of divinity — the resting place 
of their noble sovereigns, and the source of inspira- 
tion for the restoration of their nationality. Near 
this was the first shepherd I had seen in Georgia. 
He was seated on his shaggy Circassian cloak, and 
two large yellowish dogs were at his side. His 
sheep and goats appeared of small size, but were 
clean and handsome. The people we meet here, 
more generally have the gun swung to their backs, 
than those we have seen in other places. Cartmen 
and all, carry them ; and none are without the long 
Circassian knife at the belt, which is, unmistak- 
ably, indicative of a rude state of society. Imme- 
diately in this neighborhood, we crossed a plain in 
which were many large square excavations, nicely 
walled up within. These, I was told, were where 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 293 

the wine used to be trodden out, when the neigh- Section n - 
boring lands were covered with the vine, and pro- 
duced rich harvests. 

At two o'clock we came to the last station A Novel 

Scene. 

before reaching the capitol. Here the colonel's 
elder son left us, in order to reach Tiflis before 
his father, and apprise the wife of the approach 
of her husband whom she had not seen for ten 
years. We reposed awhile, ate some delicious 
pears and grapes, and then entered on the great 
military route that leads over the Caucasus. The 
new driver we now obtained, appeared to be a 
stultified human brute and drove us recklessly 
along, alike indifferent, on the edge of precipices, 
and on the broad, smooth way. On ascending a 
hill he managed to get the carriage stuck in a 
gutter, out of which we were assisted by several 
Georgian peasants, who immediately came and put 
their shoulders to the wheels. On reaching the 
summit, v/e found ourselves beneath the shadows 
of an old, ruined castle that guarded this pass 
of the Aragua. Beyond, our way lay along the 
side of a mountain, where a fine, expensive road 
had been cut. "Here," said the colonel, "forty 
years ago, no person could pass without a strong 
escort, on account of a tribe of the Letzghiny, 
who inhabiting these wild fastnesses, descended on 
the path of every traveller and robbed him, and 
plundered every unprotected caravan," 



294 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

Section n - A turn in the road brought before our sight a new 
scene, which, from its combinations, was extreme- 
ly interesting. We were on the lofty banks of a 
deep narrow river. On the opposite side a smooth, 
fine road ran parallel with the part we were 
traversing, having the dark stream on one hand 
and an abrupt mountain of rocks overhanging it 
on the other, and deepening there the shadows 
of evening. Along that, and of which we com- 
manded a clear view, were riding on horseback 
two Georgian ladies, elegantly attired in crimson 
velvet and satin, accompanied by armed men all 
finely mounted. They moved on slowly and grace- 
fully. The females sat astride the saddle, had on 
silk pantaloons, long skirts, short cloaks and crim- 
son caps fastened down by a veil, or scarf that 
passed over its top and under the chin. The gen- 
tlemen, too, wore short cloaks which showed the 
end of their sabres, while in the girdle in front, 
glittered the cama and silver mounted pistols: 
there was something of the old cavalier school 
about it, which I much liked. As we watched 
them, the waters between us reflecting the gallant 
band, there was descending, through a gorge in the 
mountain, a shepherd and his flock, accompanied 
by two noble dogs. The goats on the way, 
amused themselves by running out upon every 
dizzy crag and looking down, while the sheep 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 295 

followed the beaten path. This highly dramatic SE CTI0N n - 
gaily moving, domestic, and sublimely quiet scenery 
left on my mind a most novel and pleasing im- 
pression. 

The tenor of our thoughts was soon changed; 
for descending a hill to reach a bridge — a 
beautiful new structure recently completed by 
Prince WoronsofF, — one of the fore wheels of 
our carriage gave way and we were forced to 
dismount and proceed on foot. We now reached 
a small house, where w T e were enabled to obtain 
one of the rude w r agons of the country. The 
delay brought on the night, and Avhen our horses 
were again harnessed, it was time that we should 
have been in Tiflis. The driver who had already 
merited some abuse for his carelessness, received 
some new scolding and kicks from the official, and 
we started afresh, though not without constant 
caution from the colonel, to be careful. Headlong 
however, as usual, he continued, a precipice being 
on one side, beneath which was the river, and on 
the other sometime a ravine and sometime a cliff; 
so that in fine * * * * ! 

8th. Yesterday I awoke as from a trance. The 
last that I remembered of the previous night was a 
shriek, a shock, a dizziness, a strong light, a ga- 
thering of people, and my being borne somewhere, 
I knew not whither, but I thought by strangers. I 



296 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

S£cno * u ' found myself imbedded in the cushions of a divan 
in a curious thick-walled room ; another divan and 
two windows opposite me, and several gentlemen 
and ladies by my side ; while my head and face, 
tightly bandaged, were smarting and aching fu- 
riously. By degrees I learned the causes of my 

An Acci- strange position. Owing to the darkness of the 
preceding night we had been thrown down a preci- 
pice; and I had been brought, insensible, to the 
hospitable mansion of my Georgian companions. 
The youngest son had leaped from the wagon 
in time to save, himself; while the colonel, falling 
with me, received a severe contusion on the breast, 
which came near being fatal. We lay where we 
fell till the son procured assistance from a dis- 
tant house ; and when they came they brought 
with them flambeaux, and then conveyed us about 
a dozen miles to this place. A surgeon was imme- 
diately sent for, and dressed our wounds ; and this 
morning when I awoke, was again attending me. 
The young CarganofFs manifested much solicitude 
for my recovery, and informed me that their mar- 
ried sister, the Princess Bebutoff, had been to see 
me — that their mother, who was attending her 
husband, and desired to know how I was, would 
soon come, herself. Though I had seen many 
traits of character in my companions not altogether 
pleasing, I found there was a kindly vein running 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 297 



Section II. 



through all the family. Eepose during the day 
and night enabled me this morning to rise and 
dress, but I found my head had been seriously cut 
in several places by stones on which I had been 
precipitated ; and, though still suffering from innu- 
merable bruises, I was induced to visit the colone- 
and Madame in their apartments above. Xo apo- 
logy was necessary for my bad looks : they all 
knew of the frightful accident, and welcomed me 
with great courtesy. Many people were assembled Georgian 

Society. 

to rejoice with the wife in the return of her long 
lost husband ; and there was so much grace and af- 
fability of manner, cheerfulness and happiness de- 
picted on their faces, that I was most favorably im- 
pressed with the amiability of Georgian society. 
The Princess BebutofT was the most beautiful lady 
present ; and her sister-in-law the next, whose hus- 
band was a magnificent looking officer, but mani- 
fested considerable jealousy of her. She was quite 
in French costume — a green silk dress trimmed 
with green velvet. Her little son, four years old, 
attracted much attention by his fair face and curls. 
He wore a long velvet frock trimmed with fur, and 
a Circassian knife at his belt. 

Tea and cake were brought to the visitors on 
their arrival, and toward evening, we sat down 
to an excellent dinner. I will only mention, how- 
ever, that portion of it in which the Georgians 



298 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

Srcrl0K n " pride themselves — the confectionery ; it was abun- 
dant, of great variety, and extremely delicate. 

Georgian The dining room is a long central apartment, 
leading to the balcony in front. On its eastern 
end is the drawing-room. Its furniture consists of 
a kind of divan, arm chairs, and a large mirror, 
opposite the portraits of the empress and emperor ; 
under it a small neat card table, on which are 
some valuable French books. The low window 
sills of the deep windows being covered with 
Persian rugs, are also used as seats. The dining 
room has white muslin curtains, common chairs, 
a piano, quadrant-tables, a light satin sofa, and 
a small chandelier. West of this are small rooms, 
which the motherly Lady Carganoff showed to me ; 
one used as a study, and the others as sleeping 
rooms, having neat beds, divans, ward-robes, and 
the usual necessaries of a lady's toilette ; evidently 
a mixture of modern Russian and ancient Georgian 
taste. The walls of one room are quite covered 
with family portraits ; among which are two wives 

of Colonel C . The centre room is warmed 

by a large earthen furnace, so placed in the wall 
that it opens into an adjoining room where the 
fire is made ; thus avoiding the smoke or dust, 
or any of the inconveniences of a fire-place. 
The main stair-way to the principal apartments 
is uncovered, and of wood. It leads up outside 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 299 

from the yard, which, is about forty feet square, SECTIoy IL 
surrounded by a high wall, and approached by a 
gate. 

9th. To-day I have been able to ride out, and Tiflis. 
take an exterior view of the town. The viceroy's 
palace is an imposing building, with its veranda 
and columns; and many other buildings in its 
neighborhood, also Russian, are handsome edi- 
fices. A number of Georgian houses, of one story, 
somewhat elevated from their gardens, and sur- 
rounded by broad, shady balconies, were very cosey 
looking places ; and if a hand appeared at the win- 
dow to put aside the curtain, it was sure to be a 
delicate one. An old ruined fortress half way up a 
hill, commanding the town, adds much to the pic- 
turesqueness of that portion of it ; while on the op- 
posite side of the Kur, or Cyrus, are other struc- 
tures more modern and useful, and a portion of the 
ancient town.* This latter is a collection of very 
small, low hovels, half-buried in the hill, yet con- 
tains a large population ; estimated now, with those 
on the western bank of the stream, at sixty thou- 
sand, though I should think the number much 
less. On one side of Tiflis rises a mountain cliff 
which overshadows it, and appears to me to wear 



* Here are the warm baths for which Tiflis is so celebrated, aud 
from which its name is derived — Tpilis-Kalaki meaning, in Georgian, 
the warm city. 



300 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section ii. a gfo omv an( j foreboding aspect. High np, on a 
crag, on its side, stands a little Greek chapel, 
where the devout climb to worship. 

Under pretext of hiring a house, we entered one 
of the poor native dwellings. A young and pretty 
woman, small, but well formed, and lightly clad, sat 
on a low stool sewing. She had two babies strapped 
down on cradles formed of a flat board, fastened 
horizontally to two upright ones having rockers. A 
very small back room, probably containing a poor 
bed or rug-covered divan and wardrobe — a few 
cooking utensils hung on the wall, and that article 
so indispensable to a woman, a mirror — a stool or 
two, and a mat, were all else worth noting; yet, 
there appeared content and gentle joy in the mis- 
tress's heart She welcomed us gracefully, and as 
gracefully bade us adieu. I think it was not the 
first time my young Georgian friend had seen her. 

Germans. I next drove to a German settlement, a short 
distance from the old town. Here I found a long, 
broad street, lined with one-story wooden houses, 
all in good repair, and manifesting a thriftiness 
and cast of respectability peculiar to that people ; 
many hundred of whom are here most comfortably 
situated. 
Hotels. Of the five hotels in this place — two of which 
are quite good — one only had a spare room, 
and that I immediately hired with its bedstead; 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 301 

for beds are not supplied in these inns, on the sup- Section IL 
position that all travellers will bring their own 
with them ; so that if they do not pay their bills 
the landlord has only to quote an applicable por- 
tion of scripture to them, and they suddenly start 
off. 

This evening I have been at another party, at Another 

Georgian 

the house of one of the ladies I met yesterday. All Soiree, 
present were Georgians, except a German officer 
and myself. About one- third of the females 
wore European, the others their native costume. 
Among the latter was a princess, who, though of 
a large and finely developed form, made a bad 
figure from the villanous cut of her dress. It was 
of dark rich satin, made low in front, where a 
white satin stomacher was inserted which might, 
much to her advantage, have been dispensed with, 
though it now served to support the bosom, thrust 
out of its natural and unimprovable position by the 
compressure of the waist on its sides. On her 
head was a changeable green satin and silver cap 
in the shape of an inverted flower-pot, its color ill 
becoming her dark complexion. Her face was very 
broad at the cheek bones, and her eyes large and 
black without expression ; but she was yet a gay 
widow in the seeming blush of forty. There was 
one, however, dressed in exquisite taste ; the young 
wife of an elderly colonel. If there was a fault to 



302 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section ii. ^g f ounc [ w ith her, it was in a consciousness of her 
great beauty, rendering her coquetish in looks and 
actions. She wore a light satin dress with long 
sleeves, and boddice waist, open in front, around 
which, and fastened at the point of the boddice, by 
a cluster of diamonds, was a crimson and white 
ribbon falling to the feet. Half way to the sash, 
down the bosom, and extending around the neck, 
the dress was bordered by a piece of dark crimson 
satin, two inches broad, which thus encircled the 
throat and partly the bust, making more beautiful 
by the contrast, her delicate skin. From the 
small, white satin cap on her head, floated a thin 
veil adown her back, where also hung the dark, 
rich braids of her hair, also plaited very low on 
each cheek, and then turned back over her little 
ears. These, with a peculiar, undulating movement 
such as is given to tall fields of grain, when the 
wind sweeps over their surface, and an assumed 
timidity and coyishness studied as early, I think, 
as when she first thought of being loved, courted 
the attention, if they did not inspire devotion. 

There was no one present, however, more wor- 
thy of admiration than the Princess BebutofF — 
the good Samaritan who came to offer her sym- 
pathies the evening I was carried wounded to her 
father's house. There was a calmness and gentle- 
ness in her manner, and a depth of feeling in 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 303 

her large, eloquent eyes, which could not be un- Section IL 
heeded. She spoke French, and would, I think, 
have said more than she did, had her husband not 
given her several significant looks. As it was, I 
had engaged to be at a party at her own house. 

The officers all wore many decorations, and were 
fine looking men ; but they conversed very little 
with the ladies, and then only, apparently, in short 
sallies of wit, keeping themselves much together. 
Two ladies who joined us at the supper-table were 
from a convent. Their dress was entirely black ; 
and the forehead, cheek, and chin up to the mouth, 
were bandaged with black — good people, doubt- 
less, though they looked in the happy throng like 
silent spirits of darkness. The salutations on en- 
tering or retiring, were much the same as in good 
Italian society, except that where one was friendly 
enough to kiss a lady's hand, he usually received a 
kiss in return on his hair or forehead. They all 
occupied the chairs, divans, &c., as Europeans, ex- 
cept the mother of the family, who was rather 
dowdy-looking. She put both feet under her, and 
sat a la Georgian. 

10th. Called on General Soffonoff (whom I have General 
mentioned as having been met by me on the Dan- ^° ono 
ube, in Odessa and Kertsch,) occupying a position 
equivalent to our office of Secretary of State. He 
received me with much urbanity, and requested the 



/ 

304 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 



Section II. 



privilege of presenting me to the Prince Woronsoff. 
I accepted his offer with pleasure, and we proceed- 
ed together to the palace. He entered at once the 
apartment of the viceroy, desiring me to be seated 
a moment where were several officers, and an aid- 
de-camp of his highness. During my detention 
there, several officers of distinction arrived, among 
whom was a Circassian chief, richly dressed in blue 
and silver, and wearing many decorations. He was, 
also, at once admitted to the prince. On his re- 
tiring, the general came and conducted me to the 
reception room. The prince came nearly to the 
door to receive me, called me by name, shook me 
cordially by the hand, expressed by look and 
word much pleasure at meeting an American, 
manifested an intimate knowledge of the route I 
had taken, and kindly enquired about the injury I 
had received. I told him that I felt highly honor- 
ed in being presented to a prince of whom every 
one, throughout my whole journey had spoken in 
such exalted terms ; and then apologised to him for 
appearing with my bruised face, saying, that as it 
was caused by the carelessness of one of his own 
subjects, I trusted he would excuse it. He laughed, 
and desired to present me to the princess — lead- 
ing me to the back part of the long hall, where a 
portion of his library was arranged, and where at a 
table, writing, sat his accomplished lady. She arose, 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 305 

received me in a most gracious manner, and ad- SfiCTI0N TI 
dressed me in French, apologising for not being 
conversant with the English language, though she 
had for a short time resided in England. 

Formalities passed, I soon resumed conversation 
with the prince, who speaks English with a fluency 
and elegance unsurpassed. He, then, in his bland 
manner proffered me all the aid I desired during 
my stay in the country; and said, if I would write 
out any questions I wished answered, the Baron 
Nicolaif would respond to them ; though so much 
occupied he might not be able to do the justice to 
them desirable, and added, that if I would come 
and dine with him in the evening, he would 
introduce me to the baron. He then expressed 
regret that Mr. Cherubin, who had been in his 
service, and spoke English well, was not at present 
with him. He mentioned the hour of dining ; I 
accepted his invitation and retired. 

At six o'clock in the evening I was ushered by 
servants in rich livery, through satin-curtained 
doors into the grand saloon of the princess, where 
were gathered many distinguished guests. Prince 
Kotsohobey, plain in dress, and unpretending, im- 
mediately made himself known to me, addressing 
me in English, and introduced me to several persons 
present, among whom was the Baron Nicolaif. The 
latter, extremely young, I found remarkably intelli- 
19 



306 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

Szc -™ u - gent ; and equally prepossessing in manner. Soon 
the curtains at the door were drawn aside, and the 
princess herself, attended by a page, entered. All 
arose to receive her. She courtesied gracefully to 
them, then passed round and conversed with each. 
She did me the kindness to ask how the wounds 
were on my head, now quite concealed by my hair, 
and said that bleeding was extremely good for such 
contusions ; and wished to know if I submitted to 
such an operation. She then enquired if I spoke 
Italian. I told her that a year's residence in Italy 
had enabled me to speak it a little ; and on turning 
from French into that language, she said with a 
slightly embarrassed air, non posso palare molto ; 
then taking the arm of a general, she led the way 
to a small side-table in an ante-chamber, where we 
partook of the usual stimulants to a Russian din- 
ner, and then followed her to the dining room. 

The apartment was brilliantly lighted, and every 
official's breast glittered with diamond decorations, 
crosses, &c. The table was handsomely, though 
not magnificently furnished, and we commenced 
with soup. Eight or ten courses followed ; but 
there was nothing particular to be remarked upon 
but the exquisite pheasant, and a Persian dish 
which the princess wished me especially to taste, 
as it had been cooked at the house of, and sent to 
her by, the venerable Greek patriarch. It was 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 307 

something like the Turkish pileau, made of boiled Section n 
chicken, rice, fruits, and was very nice. The 
Baron Nicoloif was on my right, and we were at 
no loss for subjects to talk about ; but the princess 
who sat directly opposite, found it necessary fre- 
quently to introduce topics of conversation, as 
there was a great dearth of it among her generals 
and other guests, who spoke alternately Russian 
and French — her own cheerful and happy manner 
giving much the air of home to her table. 

The princess, a daughter of the celebrated Coun- Princess 

Woron- 

tess Braniska, whose immense fortune was un- sofF. 
equalled in Bussia, has a very fair complexion, and 
is handsome. She is of middling height, full form, 
and looks about thirty-five years of age, though I 
believe she is somewhat older. Her taste in dress 
suited well her figure, and her pleasing expres- 
sion gave a youthful tinge to all that she did. She 
wore a lace cap trimmed with a white and delicate 
red ribbon. It sat well back on the head, and 
showed her fine dark hair, which, in a broad mass, 
was brought low on each cheek, and passed under 
the ears. Her frock was of dark green plaid silk, 
with waist open in front, where a stomacher was 
partly concealed by a broad satin ribbon that fast- 
ened about the neck a small lace collar. Over her 
shoulders was carelessly thrown a white satin scarf; 

and on her left wrist a bracelet hanging loosely, 
19* 



308 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

Section ii. ma( j e f a j on g string of corals with a golden pen- 
dant. On her delicate hand she had one large tur- 
quoise, and several diamond rings. 
Prince The prince, not being well, suffering much from 

Woron- . 

soff. an affection of the eyes, dmed in his private room, 
to which, when dinner was over, we all retired, the 
princess leading the way. The prince, to show the 
courtesy due to a stranger, and express his particu- 
lar regard for one of the Saxon race, speaking 
English, of which he is very fond, came forward 
to welcome me, passing by his generals with only a 
bow. He cordially extended his hand, then led me 
to a seat beside himself and the princess. He ask- 
ed me at once how I liked the Crimea, as he knew 
I had passed through it ; but, said he, " you did 
not see the best part of it — you should see the 
southern coast, which is very beautiful." I told 
him I had traversed the interior for the purpose of 
seeing the Tartars ; but that I had heard, that a 
view of his estate alone, was well worthy a journey 
around the whole peninsula. We then entered 
into conversation concerning the improved state of 
commerce in the Black Sea ; and when I told him 
of the quantity of grain that had been exported, 
within nine months from Odesa, he replied — 
making some calculations — that he believed it to 
be even more, evidently conversant with the pros- 
perous state of the agricultural interest. He then 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 309 

asked if I came up the Phasis ; and said that next Section it 
year, or year after, he should have tug-boats there, 
so that passengers could come up to Marane in two 
days, and that, as soon as practicable, he should 
have steamers ; but wished to know if I thought 
there were not too many bars and snags in the 
stream for such an enterprise. I admitted to him 
that the impediments were innumerable ; but doubt- 
ed not that the same sagacity which had spread so 
many steamers over the Euxine, would succeed 
there ; and acknowledged, in answer to a question, 
that the valley I had passed through was very 
beautiful. " Yes," said he, " it will be the garden of 
New Russia." He then, with an expression of plea- 
sure, referred to my own country — saying : " The 
Americans appear now to be in quiet possession of 
Mexico." I replied that I had received no news 
since their approach to the capital. " Yes," said 
he, " it is so ; and I will loan to you the papers 
which affirm it ;" and he immediately rose, went to 
his drawer and brought four numbers of the Lon- 
don Morning Post, last date November 6th. He 
said I might take them with me, and return them 
on the next day, as he had not read them all. He 
then continued the subject, showing a most inti- 
mate knowledge of all the movements of our army 
— of every battle that had been fought — of the 
names of all who had distinguished themselves, 



310 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

suction ii. an( j men tioned in terms of high, praise, Generals 
Taylor and Scott — adding: "your soldiers are of 
the same hardy Saxon race that has ever distin- 
guished itself." Thus this venerable, this distin- 
guished warrior, statesman and prince, entertained 
me during the evening, displaying such a profun- 
dity of accurate, practical knowledge, on all sub- 
jects on which his giant intellect rested, adorned 
and embellished by the most mild and urbane man- 
ners, that when I took my leave of him, it was 
with a degree of veneration I had never felt toward 
any other man. 

Smoking. The princess, smoked ! ! Immediately after din- 
ner, her page brought in a rich Turkish pipe, set it 
on the floor, unfolded the long flexible stem, and 
presented its amber mouth-piece to the lady. She 
took it in her jeweled hand, gave a few graceful 
whiffs, and then returned it to the page. She seem- 
ed to enjoy it, was evidently accustomed to it, and 
it was the only thing I saw about her that was in 
bad taste — one that I could not but heartily con- 
demn. It is bad enough for men to All their pock- 
ets and mouths, and scent their whole person with 
tobacco ; but when the charm of that " ineffable 
perfume of an elegantly dressed lady," as Bulwer 
would say, is thus destroyed, half of her power 
and the divinity of that celestial halo of purity 
which encircles her like a tiara of pearls, vanishes. 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 311 

The princess' page is a good looking youth, very SB<m0N " 
differently dressed from the other attendants — ■ 
something in the Hindoo style. 

Coffee had been handed round by servants ; but 
a dwarf, a very short, curious looking little man 
with large moustaches, came to receive the cups. 
When the princess had finished smoking, she 
called to her a little animal that had been skipping 
about the room, and it leaped upon her from 
a great distance. She remarked to me that it 
was a great pet of hers, and that it had been 
brought to her from Afghanistan. It resembled 
the African squirrels I had seen, but it was about 
three times as large. 

Prince Kotsohobey took me home in his car- Kotsoho- 
riage, and gave me some advice concerning my in- 
tended journey into the mountains, but spoke of 
dangers, which Baron Nicolaif assured me I ought 
not to apprehend. Prince Kotsohobey said: — 
" These Circassians are just like your American 
Indians — as untamable and uncivilized — and 
that, owing to their natural energy of character, 
extermination only would keep them quiet, or 
that if they came under Russian rule, the only 
safe policy would be to employ their wild and 
warlike tastes, against others." I saw one of 
them to-day riding through the streets a steed as 
fiery as himself. They flew away together like 



312 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

sbcmok ii. ^ e wm d an( j clouds, and seemed but one. The 
rider knew his animal and the animal his rider, 
who as they swept along by me, seemed little else 
than a stream of silver light, for his clothes were 
covered with silver lace, and his arms were of 
silver and steel. I told Prince K. that the wild 
spirit of our Indians found vent in flying the 
plains for the buffalo — their cunning, in trap- 
ping the beaver. How well these sports are suited 
to their natures ! 

11th. Prince Kotsohobey in accordance with 
a promise last evening, called this morning and 
presented to me a splendid Russian map of this 
region. 

Attended the Greek church, to witness a cere- 
mony — the consecration of the army. The patri- 
arch in robes of golden cloth officiated. The 
officers in full uniform were present, and received 
his benediction after many formalities, and reading 
from a massive Bible bound in gold. The patri- 
arch then went out, and with a small bush 
sprinkled with holy water the soldiers drawn up 
in front of the church. 

Bali at the 15th. Sunday being inclement, I devoted my- 
self to the study of the Russian language. On 
Monday, met the princess Bebutoff, and soon after 
received an invitation from the princess Woronsoff 
to attend a ball that evening, at the palace. A 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 313 

drosky took me there at eight o'clock, and I was S£CTI °* n 
received in the grand saloon hy the princess who 
wore the charms of her sweetest smiles, and her 
most affable manners. General Sofonoff and lady 
soon arrived. The latter and Princess Woronsoff 
were in dark satin dresses in French style. That 
of lady Woronsoff was cut pointed in the neck 
before and behind, and trimmed with ruffles of fine 
plain lace. A lace scarf was about her shoulders ; 
hair brought full and low on the cheeks, orna- 
mented on one side by a fringe of black bugles, 
and on the other by a small delicate feather, which 
floated gracefully beside the glossy braids. On the 
neck was a single string of pearls. The rest of 
the company was made up of glittering officials, 
and short and tall women, dressed according to 
their good or bad tastes. One very little woman 
had three enormous crimson dahlias in her hair, 
and four on the front of the skirt of her dress, 
but she had a pleasant face, innocent as the light. 
There were two in Georgian costume ; one, the 
Princess Parlavandoff, was pretty and fairy-like. 
Her dress was of pearl colored silk, made like 
those I have heretofore described. Around her 
waist was a ribbon of the color of her chemisette, 
and on her arm, covered by a long sleeve, were two 
bracelets, one of gold and one of coral. Her 
front hair was brought low on the cheeks, while 



314 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

stcriox n. ^ e reg ^. ^ raven braids f e U down her back, partly 
covered by the thin veil that floated from her 
little golden cap. 

Khani- KhanikofF, an author of much celebrity here, 
kofE 

extended to me his acquaintance and presented me 

to Count De Lille, companion of Count Courtigie, 
employed by the French government to make 
observations on the military establishments of the 
country, in reference to adopting the same in 
Africa. Tea and cake were handed around, then 
commenced a gallopade, which was followed by 
quick waltzes — couples succeeding each other, 
after passing up and down the hall once ; it being 
considered somewhat improper to extend a waltz 
further, with the same partner. Ice creams and 
sherbert were next brought, and the dwarf came 
to receive the dishes. The ladies were then all 
seated at the upper end of the hall, and Mons. 
Rodolf, a distinguished French professor of leger- 
dermain, went through a series of sleights of hand 
that astonished all. 

Mons. K. was three years in Constantinople by 
the wish of the Sultan, who made him many valua- 
ble presents. He is yet young, quite gentlemanly, 
and has with him a sweet little Italian wife. After 
his feats the mazurka was danced for an hour ; 
but it had nothing of the bewitching grace, that 
true poetry of motion which characterises the 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 315 

Spanish waltzes as danced by the Madridlenians. SectionIL 
One is the graceful roll of the ship at sea, the 
other, the feather in a whirlwind. 

The furniture of the Princess' drawing-room 
was of crimson velvet; that of the dancing-saloon, 
red damask. The walls were covered with satin 
paper and ornamented by a single portrait, that 
of a daughter of the princess; and though repre- 
senting a very beautiful and amiable girl, was 
equally attractive as a gem of art; and when the 
mother told me it was of her child, her eyes swam 
in tears. On each table were pots of full blown 
flowers, and in each fire-place, amid a mass of deep 
green foliage, was a rose bush putting forth one 
large beautiful rose. 

Yesterday being stormy I devoted a part of the Ivanhoe. 
day to a file of newspapers Prince WoronsofT sent 
to me by the hands of a Cossack. They con- 
tained news of deep interest — the progress of re- 
form in Sardinia — civil war in Switzerland — cus- 
toms league in Italy — Ireland's thousands starv- 
ing under English misrule, and the Americans 
possessing the city of Mexico. In the morning, 
M. Khanikoff favored we with a call and a book 
to read. Baron Mcolaif came and entertained 
me for two hours, and in the evening, I had a 
visit from a Mr. Ivanhoe, a Greek from Smyrna, 
who knew many of my old acquaintances there — 



316 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 



Section II. 



the lovely Greek sisters, the Misses Gou, one of 
whom, (and whose portrait is in her father-in-law's 
family in the United States,) is now the wife of an 
estimable American, Mr. Langdon: the worthy 
English family of Purdys, one of whom married a 
charming and wealthy lady of Boston ; the Messrs. 
Offleys of Philadelphia, and the accomplished and 
admired Miss Clark, who now as Mrs. Lord, adorns 
the society of Trinidad de Cuba. Hardly any one 
could have been more welcome than Mr. Ivanhoe, 
for with him I lived over again my delightful 
sojourn in Ionia. I revisited Clazomene, wan- 
dered with him along the banks of the Meles, 
climbed Mount Sipylus, looked out on the far- 
stretching plains of Lydia, and wept beside the 
once thrice-warm but now cold, desolate-hearted 
Niobe. My meeting with him could not have 
been more opportune. He had, like myself, been 
a rambler over the world, and speaking Turkish, 
Tartar, and three or four other languages of the 
East, was just the person I needed for my future 
route. We were at once friends, and I proposed 
to him to join me in my expedition into the 
mountains, and then into Persia. He acceeded 
to it with delight, though the thought of leaving 
the society of the gentle Senora R. whose manners 
I was willing to admit, were extremely fascinating, 
soon chilled his ardor. He related what I had 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 317 

already heard — that it had stormed furiously in S ectiox u - 
the mountains — that the passes were closed by 
avalanches, and that I would find howling horrors 
in the region of the Kasbek, provoked by the 
restless sprit of Prometheus, who was still chained 
there, with none of Io's race to set him free. 

To-day I was called on by Mons. Marr, em- Mons. 

Man* 

ployed by the government to ascertain the pro- 
perties of the soil, and improve the agriculture 
of the valley. His residence is in Guriel, the 
district I first entered after leaving the Euxine. 
He stated that fruits and grain could here be 
brought to almost any perfection, and that he had 
succeeded in raising a very excellent cotton. I 
returned with him to his hotel to obtain some 
statistics about the tribes of his region, and then 
in company with Mr. Ivanhoe, visited Count de 
Courtigie. The count told me his orders were to 
cross the Caucasus, but the Cossack couriers had 
reported to him also, that the passes were closed, 
for there had been some dreadful storms in 
the mountains; and when I assured him that 
within a week I should attempt it myself, he 
endeavored with much earnestness, to dissuade 
me from it, showing that same kindness of heart 
which had won for him the affections of many 
a stranger. 

This being the day on which etiquette required 



318 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

Section il that all who had attended the princess' assembly 
should call on her, at about two o'clock I repaired 
to the palace. I found the lady sitting on a rich 
lounge, under the portrait of her daughter. 
Gracefully and cheerfully she received all. Her 
conversation with me turned on my travels, more 
particularly in Krim Tartary. She mentioned her 
magnificent chateau at Yalta, and seemed by the 
feeling with which she dwelt upon it, to desire 
again to return to the Crimea. He tiring as soon 
as courtesy permitted, I drove to the hotel and 
spent the evening in persuading friend Ivanhoe 
to accompany me in my future wanderings. 
Calls. 16th. Early this morning I received a note 
of invitation from Princess and Prince Woronsoff 
to dine with them in the evening. By invitation 
I paid a visit also to the Georgian princess Be- 
butoff, it being with her a marriage fete day. 
I entered a large walled courtyard, ascended a 
long, low flight of steps to the stylobate of a 
handsome one-story wooden house of light green 
color. Passing through a long hall, I was re- 
ceived at the door of the reception-room by the 
princess' brother, who presented me formally to 
his sister, who was reclining on a divan beside her 
mother. As I kissed the hands of the good lady 
and lovely daughter, they returned the compliment 
by kissing my hair; this species of salutation 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 319 

being allowable where persons are intimate : and Section it 
the long acquaintance I had had with the princess' 
father and brothers, and the knowledge we pos- 
sessed consequently of each other, made her as 
well as her mother who had welcomed me to 
her house when I was so seriously injured by 
the upsetting of the carriage, appear more like a 
relative than a stranger. The young lady gor- 
geously attired in native costume, arose to re- 
ceive me, while her parent sat a la Georgian. The 
room was large and richly furnished in blue dam- 
ask. On one side, covering about a quarter of 
the finely waxed floor, was a large Persian rug, 
on which stood a sofa and centre-table, and op- 
posite it a piano. I had been invited here to dine, 
but a previous engagement at the palace prevented 
what would have been very agreeable; but I was 
not permitted to leave without promising to return 
again, after I had left Prince Woronsoff. The 
princess would not, therefore, say to me adieu, 
but, au revoir. I shall not soon forget the tone 
of that voice ; and the smile that accompanied it, 
is a delicate wreath hung up in my memory. 

I next drove to Prince Kotsohobey's to return 
his calls, but did not find him at home. I how- 
ever, met there Prince Dinderdoff, who invited 
me to his apartments, where he displayed some 
very excellent raw silk made in the neighborhood, 



320 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section ii. an( } w hich i s becoming a great article of com- 
merce. I was astonished to find that he was 
perfectly conversant with the detailed movements 
of our army, and said that he thought that Gen- 

OurSol- eral Scott must be a great military chief, while 

diers. 

General Taylor deserved the thanks which one 
State refused to vote to him, and the highest 
honors in the gift of our government. He also 
mentioned in terms of admiration, Bragg, Worth, 
Bingold, Hunter, and many others, several dis- 
tinguished sons of Massachusetts, and affirmed 
that it was incredible how the untutored volun- 
teer corps should fight so bravely and be so bold 
and irresistible. It was most gratifying to me 
to see that the fame of those noble-hearted soldiers 
had thus spread over the world. 

His apartments were rich in lounges, &c., and 
on the walls hung several French engravings ; the 
two most beautiful of which were, the "Hindoo 
Girl" and the "Miniature." 

I next called on M. Khanikoff, who with much 
affability received me in his study. He speaks 
English tolerably well. The only picture in his 
room is a portrait of Washington. M. Khani- 
koff is the author of a work on Bocharia, a re- 
gion from which he not long since returned; and 
what is singularly interesting in his residence 
there, is that Conolly, (with Stoddart,) who was 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 321 

afterwards so barbarously murdered by the natives, Section n 
was for some time his guest. M. K. speaks the 
Persian language, and all his servants are Per- 
sians, brought with him from that country. Their 
costume is like the Georgians, and they wear their 
caps at all times, even though waiting on a prince. 

At six o'clock, I went to the palace and dined. At &* 

' r Palace. 

An extra luxury on the table were some small 
oysters from Trebizond. On retiring to the apart- 
ment of the prince, he welcomed me with the same 
cheerful expression, and elegant manners of the 
courtier, and at once took me to see some speci- 
mens of cotton, grown in Guriel. He said he did 
not think it so good as our American, and desired 
my opinion; but of some coal he had, he re- 
marked that it was found in abundance in Im- 
eretia, and in a favorable position for transit, and 
that it had been tried on the boats, and found 
to be very valuable — that coal had also been 
discovered on the frontier line of Turkey, where 
it had been difficult to maintain a garrison for 
want of wood. He then went and brought me 
two English newspapers received a few moments 
previous from Petersburg, and at the same time 
proffered the use of his library. From some re- 
marks of the princess, I was led to ask her if she 
had the life of Pozzo Borgo. She replied that she 

had not yet obtained it, but quoting some of his 
20 



322 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

sadnoa ii. opinions, as related by the author, Count OuvarofF 
showed that she had a knowledge of it. She 
said that like the eccentric Alfieri,* Pozzo re- 
garded Machiavelli as the prince of thinkers. 
General Potosky, a man of giant form and in- 
tellect, joined us, and introduced the subject of 
the cholera, stating that he had just received 
letters from Moscow, giving alarming accounts 
of the fear which had seized the inhabitants on 
the approach of that strange scourge. 

On my taking leave — and it is fashionable to 
do so, without bidding any one adieu — General 
Potosky offered me a seat in his carriage, and I 

At Princ- hastened to the Princess Bebutoff's. The brilliancy 

ess Bebu- 
toff's. of the assembly there, could hardly be surpassed. 

Oriental beauty, luxury, and loveliness were around 
me. In one corner reclined a Persian damsel, and 
a Circassian princess. Opposite, on a lounge, sat 
a brilliant Georgian belle, and by the piano stood 
the charming lady of the mansion, each sur- 
rounded by a coterie of friends, forming groups 
bewitchingly fair. The manners of all were as 
chaste and decorous as the costumes were rich and 
modest, and yet effective. The art of dress had 
evidently reached great perfection among them. 
As in the other assemblies I have mentioned, the 

* C. Edwards Lester, Esq., has translated into English the 
extremely interesting auto-biography of this remarkable man. 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 323 

gentlemen were too apt to gather apart from the Seciion 1L 
ladies, though when one appeared on the floor 
to dance, all were attention and admiration. A 
girl of about fourteen won great applause by her 
grace in the native bolero. Indeed, it required 
the most perfect of forms to appear well in it; 
and one of less than faultless elegance of motion, 
flexibility of limbs, and heartfelt love of the 
task, must have utterly failed. As it was, her 
arms and body seemed wreathed with every strain 
of music. To its soft and gentle tones she was 
bending like the willow, and her long dark eye- 
lashes veiled the bright light of the soul. When 
it was more stiimg, there was a flashing wild- 
ness in her look, and a more impassioned move- 
ment ; and I thought of the swift- winged swallow, 
the soaring eagle, the floating swan ; and the gen- 
tle langour which at one moment stole on the 
senses of the spectator, was in the next replaced 
by vivid, exulting commendation. 



20* 



SECTION III. 



section hi. 30th. A few days passed most rapidly away in 
Morals in the high toned, elegant society met with here, and 
'my journeying was to be resumed. The viceroy 
had promised me letters to his officers commanding 
in the various districts, and a Cossack guard for 
my excursions into the interior ; but the charm of a 
refined circle of friends was not easily abandoned. 
The entire object of my visit here, however, not 
being yet completed, no incentive could have been 
more powerful, in severing the chains that bound 
me to the banks of the Cyrus. But before leaving 
I would gladly, if space permitted, devote a chapter 
to the social virtues of the people, and the domes- 
tic amiability which pervades many a family, 
though I cannot give full assent to the opinions 
expressed by some of our most worthy missionaries, 
to which I have referred in another section. 

The learned Xavier H. De Hell remarks in his 
" Travels in the Steppes" : " On entering the first 
salon, we were met by the general, who imme- 
diately presented us to his two wives. «... 
In Russia, wealth covers every thing with its glit- 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 325 

tering veil, and sanctions every kind of eccentricity. S£GTI0N IIL 
A man the slave of his word, and a woman of her 
reputation, could not be understood in a country 
where caprice reigns as absolute sovereign. A 
Russian lady to whom I made some remarks on 
this subject, answered naively, that none but low 
people could be affected by scandal, inasmuch as 
censure can only proceed from superiors." 

A friend informed me that some of the noble fa- 
milies, both native and foreign, which we were vi- 
siting, enjoyed the full latitude of that freedom, 
which the intrigues, and the voluptuous habits of 
the court have sanctioned from time immemorial. 

For instance, M. , with those fine decorations, 

is swayed only by ambition, and will forego any- 
thing for preferment. He cares not what the 
splendidly attired, graceful Madame, does, provided 
she calls not on him for the expenses of her gaiety. 

Creditable to seek rank and station by marriage, 
it is in no sense discreditable to find the heart 
a home in the breast of one to whom heaven and 
love — one the atmosphere of the other — has 
seemed to wed it ; and while the gentle one bends 
to forms constructed perhaps by soulless men, and 
to laws though divine — changed since Solomon's 
time, and that may change again — spoken by pro- 
fane priests, the far more sacred (as they deem 
them) rights of the soul, the hallowed spirit of the 



326 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section hi. affections, create for themselves a beautiful image 
crowned with celestial light, which leads them in 
a path of equal honor and fidelity — though not ac- 
cording with our strict notions of virtue — to hap- 
piness. 

Dangers At the palace I consulted every person who I 

in passing 

the Cau- supposed could give the slightest information con- 

casus. . at 

cernmg the route over the Caucasus. A general 
who passed there about a month since, and who, as 
a personal friend, I thought I could rely upon, and 
whose decision I had almost made up my mind to 
abide by, told me he considered it dangerous at the 
present time, as, much snow having fallen, ava- 
lanches would frequently occur, which might be 
somewhat inconvenient. To the last supposition I 
assented from a rather serious conviction that one 
of those fearful masses, descending some thousands 
of feet upon my path, might send me on that long 
journey from which travellers are not often known 
to return. The astute Cobbett, I think it is, who 
says : "no one is so prepared to ask advice as 
he who has made up his mind to act upon his own 
judgment ;" so I turned to others whom I knew in 
the assembly, in hopes to find some who would 
give countenance to my determination to hazard 
the trip at all risks ; but there was one only, Baron 
Nicolaif, who afforded any encouragement. He 
stated that though the courier due for two days 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 227 

had not yet arrived from St. Petersburg, there Sectiox m 
was no doubt he would come that day, and if he 
could pass, I could; and, in fact, he thought the 
very difficulties I should have to surmount would 
add an interest which I should not regret; and 
though there might be danger, the chances in favor 
of my making an agreeable ride were so many in 
comparison, that he favored my design. He also 
told me of a method of making the post-wagons 
more bearable, which was to take a long rope and 
cross it many times over the top of the vehicle, fas- 
tening it in the frame work at the sides, and thus 
form a kind of seat, which would be a little elastic 
and answer, though to a very limited extent, for 
springs, of which they are entirely deficient. This 
was also to be improved by placing on the ropes a 
pillow, or a sack of hay, though by being thus ele- 
vated, the unaccustomed traveller was very apt to be 
thrown out ; so that though one portion of the ani- 
mal economy was made comfortable by the ducti- 
lity of feathers or hay, another portion was made 
uncomfortable by fear of having its casket bumped 
on a rock. 

Other persons, whom I questioned expressed 
themselves dubiously, or with an assurance that I 
was undertaking a difficult and perilous enterprise; 
and Prince Kotshobey said I had better dress in 
the Circassian costume, and go well armed. These 



328 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section hi. precautions he doubtless thought necessary : — 
as in the first case, being taken for one of their 
own people, I should readily escape being shot at 
by the mountaineers in the wild passes I should 
have to traverse, as the Eussians and others fre- 
quently are, even from a great distance ; in the 
other case, if attacked by a small party, might have 
a chance of escape by gallant defence. One gen- 
tleman who had several times passed over to the 
northern side of the Caucasus, told me that he was 
once blocked in between two avalanches, which fell 
during his journey, and that he was obliged to re- 
main at one of the post stations a whole month be- 
fore the way could be opened sufficiently for him 
to proceed; and during that time, as there was 
only a small picket of Cossacks to guard the place, 
the Circassians might have descended from the 
heights and swept them away from the valley as 
the snow was whirled from the peaks above them 
— that these robber hordes of the hills doubtless 
would have done so, had they known of the isola- 
ted and helpless condition of their enemies. This 
may appear strange, continued he, when it is 
known, that the people who inhabit these regions 
are called the subdued and friendly tribes ; but 
when their real character is understood, all as- 
tonishment ceases. However tranquil and inoffen- 
sive they may be, when nothing is to be gained 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 329 

and much risked in hostile movements, night as- Section m 
saults, or private murders, they are ever ready, 
ever on the alert, ever eager for an opportunity, 
when — as I have related in cases of shipwreck on 
the coast of the Black Sea — they can entrap a 
wealthy traveller, of whatever nation he may be, 
plunder a caravan, or descend upon an unprotected 
Russian or Georgian village, destroy its inhabitants 
and carry off their wealth, their cattle, their arms 
and ammunition. 

Are these tribes I am yet to visit, so different, I 
asked from those I have met with in the valley % 
Are such the great risks to be run 1 It is possible ; 
but, said I to myself, animated even by the recital 
of these very hindrances which at other times 
might have damped my ardor, to-morrow I start 
for the mountains. 

Early in the morning, after taking tea, as a mat- Prepara 

tions. 

ter of course, and not coffee, I had sallied out with 
my Greek friend and interpreter, to procure a pa- 
tarodgner and such articles as the cold and the ne- 
cessities of our journey demanded. The first was 
a source of no little annoyance to us, as, to obtain 
it, we had to go through a long and very con- 
temptible routine of proceeding, which, as also 
the difficulties complained of universally by fo- 
reigners and others met with in obtaining pass- 
ports — should be, by the enlightened prince, for- 



330 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section in. eyer abolished. We appeared at the police-office 
where our passports were examined ; then w r e had 
to go about a mile to get a single sheet of paper, 
(just as though it could not be kept and sold in 
the same office where some of the other business 
w r as done) then return, then go to another office, 
and then to another, and so on for two long hours : 
literally tw r o hours, though we rode from place to 
place, and I feed each clerk who had anything to 
do with the business — some from necessity, and 
some voluntarily. I paid, also, $5.61 to govern- 
ment, such being the amount due on said pata- 
rodgnei\ which claims one copek per verst for the 
whole distance therein named, besides a dollar or 
tw r o for stamped paper. This sum is, as I have 
stated, in the post system, independent of the three 
copeks per verst for each horse driven on the mili- 
tary route during the winter, and the ten copeks 
claimed at each post for the use of the wagon. 

When this disagreeable business was completed, 
our steps were turned to the bazars, where we pur- 
chased sugar, tea, cheese, sausages, bread, &c., — 
large boots, lined with fur and reaching to the 
knee ; heavy woollen stockings to wear outside and 
inside of the inner boots ; various other articles of 
comfort, and last, though not least, a huge sack of 
hay to put into the bottom of our carriage, believ- 
ing it would be more comfortable and less dan- 



laus. 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 331 

gerous to sit on, than the ropes recommended by Section m - 
the baron. With very few exceptions, all the per- 
sons we had to deal with were Armenians, and Armen- 
they were as expert and eager in the display and 
sale of their goods, as a Jew is in changing money. 
In fact, traffic, mercantile speculation, commercial 
enterprise generally, constitute the very life and 
soul of this people. It is their great end and aim 
to rise from pedlars to shopkeepers, and from shop- 
keepers to bankers, and, if possible, to monopolise 
trade. Being industrious even to indefatigability, 
prudent even to parsimony, and abstemious even to 
excess, they seldom fail to accomplish their object. 
The present banker of the sultan is an Armenian, 
and the great merchants and bankers throughout 
the east are of this ancient race. We met them 
now on their own ground. One who had made 
my acquaintance some weeks before, by calling me 
into his store, under pretence of asking me if I 
could translate for him an English letter, received 
from a relative of his travelling somewhere in the 
west, but which he did not produce, and had never 
said anything more about now invited me in to 
see some new goods just arrived by caravan from 
Persia. Another -who saw us on the opposite side 
of the street bargaining for a fur coat, slipped off 
the woollen one he had on, and ensconced himself 
in a garment of the kind we were examining, pro- 



332 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section in. mena ded in front of his shop, and endeavored by 
calling to us, and by other devices, to attract our 
attention to the superior fitting and actual worth 
of the article he had donned. 

One who had asked two silver rubles for a fur 
cap, finally took one half of the price. 

Clothing we found cheap ; but good foreign 
cheese and tea were dear. For the former, one 
dollar per pound was asked, and for the latter, 
three and a half ; while loaf sugar was one quarter 
of a silver ruble, or about twenty-two cents per 
pound. 

Persian shawls which I took occasion to ex- 
amine were all striped, and though very comfort- 
able from being thickly wrought, were none of 
them of pleasing patterns. They were neither 
dear, nor elegant — usually long shawls and not 
square ones. 

No native women tended these shops, though at 
the head of a street leading to the bazars, a Ger- 
man girl with all the peculiar beauties of her na- 
tion, had found means to establish a very neat con- 
fectionery, where most excellent mince pies were to 
be had, and some other good things which would 
remind a Yankee of home. A little room adjoin- 
ing the shop, ornamented with some rather fanciful 
though rich engravings, received her more intimate 
customers. Perfect neatness prevailed everywhere • 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 333 

and it might have much to do in winning the heart Seoti °* m - 
of a young man whom I saw there, and who was 
soon to unite his fortune with hers. Judging from 
appearances, I do not think he could have made a 
better choice ha the whole of his viceroy ship's do- 
minions. 

But these Armenians never appeared to better 
advantage than when they arose from the squat- 
ting, cross-legged position as manufacturers, and 
assumed the upright and dignified posture of mer- 
chants. Their sober costume, fitting well their 
strait, but flexible forms ; their earnest and atten- 
tive air ; the mild expression of face, and sub- 
dued tone of voice, claimed a respectful ear, while 
they lauded the qualities of the merchandise they 
wished to dispose of; but they did not annoy us 
by that ofliciousness which characterises the He- 
brew broker and vender, met with every moment in 
the Turkish and some of the Russian cities. 

The Georgian, with more brilliant expression, 
levity of manner and gaiety of dress, was not less 
polite, though with a seeming affectation, assumed 
for the purpose of pleasing and making a shrewd 
bargain with a foreigner. This latter quality 
arises from the fact that the Armenians being na- 
turally superior to them in business tact by which 
these foreigners have wrested from them nearly all 
the trade of their own capital, are looked up to, 



334 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

sectkw hi. an( } imitated in their transactions and intercourse 
with the world, so that the mercantile classes lose, 
in some measure, their national traits, anda ssimu- 
late with their rivals. 

Having finished the round of the bazaars, and 
supplied ourselves with most of the articles we 
required, and with which we nearly filled a sledge, 
we passed over the lofty bridge which spans with 
one arch the Kour — the rocks jutting out here on 
either side so as to form strong natural buttresses 
for its support — and, turning to the left, de- 
scended a narrow, muddy street towards the stream 
where the hay depot is. Here we met every va- 
riety of people. The camel-driver was there even 
from the region of the Indus, and his animals 
lying on the sand, on the banks of the river hard 
by, were waiting patiently his return, with their 
food. They had been unladen in the city, and had 
come to a large unoccupied space there, for the 
purpose of obtaining water and repose, and be free 
from the annoyances of crowded streets. In the 
square above, flanked on one side by a massive 
ledge, which terminated a range of hills, and is 
crowned by a fortress and a large and beautiful 
barracks, were numerous halts of small buffaloes, 
drosky horses, &c, that were waiting, also, for the 
return of their respective drivers, who now min- 
gled with us and contended for the first service of 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 335 

the hay-seller. It was too cold to spend much Section ni - 
time in idle or curious observations ; so one sack 
was soon filled, paid for, and sent by a gipsy-look- 
ing vagabond to our sledge, that not long after 
landed us at our hotel. We had some difficulty 
in despatching the man who brought us, as he 
charged an exorbitant price ; but when it was 
done, my friend found that he had left in the car- 
riage a pair of woollen boots. Not knowing the 
stand of the driver, or his name, and the idea of 
finding him by search being rather absurd, he con- 
soled himself for his loss, by ordering tea. The 
next day just before our departure, we accidentally 
met the fellow in the suburbs of the city, and 
we immediately accosted him, though by turning 
away suddenly he evidently tried to avoid us. He, 
however, by a good ruse succeeded in keeping the 
boots, for he assured us that he had just been and 
left them at the hotel ; and as we could not there 
prove anything to the contrary, he escaped just 
punishment and our further observation. He was 
a Russian. 

On the evening of my bazaar rambles I received, 
by a Don Cossack, a package bearing the royal 
arms. It was from Prince Woronsoff, and con- 
tained a note from Baron Nicolaif, which, with 
his usual urbanity he had couched in terms of re- 
gard and friendship — and two letters for officer 



336 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section in. comm anding on the north of the Caucasus. One was 
— "A son excellence Mons. le General Nesterow, 
commandant militaire du district de Wladi Caw- 
cas," and the other to " Mons. le Colonel Beklem- 
shew, commandant le centre de laligne, Naltehep." 
The former was in answer to a note I had ad- 
dressed to the baron ; and the latter, the fulfilment 
of a promise that the prince had made to me some 
time previous, already spoken of. I was highly 
gratified by this courtesy, for I was now confident 
that every protection would be afforded, and every 
means and facility extended to me, by which I could 
see as much of the Circassians and their country as 
the state of hostilities permitted. 

I soon after received a very delicate note, directed 
in a fine and elegant hand, which I thought, from 
its appearance, must have come from some Geor- 
gian fair one. It proved, however, to be from 
friend Khanikoff, stating his inability to keep an 
engagement he had made to meet me that evening ; 
but that at any other time previous to my depar- 
ture, or after my return, he should be most happy 
to see me. Here I was disappointed in two ways ; 
but I was consoled by the knowledge that he 
would not, when opportunity offered, fail to im- 
part to me some of that vast fund of information 
with which his great, and still youthful mind is 
stored. 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 337 

While we were driving about for our patarodg- Section m 
ner, an incident occurred I forgot to mention, but 
which was one of the kind that made lookers on 
laugh, however disagreeable it may be to the suf- 
ferer — such as slipping on the ice, or chasing 
one's hat in a high wind. A poor Circassian, a 
water carrier — though here, as in Cairo, water is 
carried about in large skins — ascending a steep 
street near the palace, had stopped his old horse on 
the way, to rest; as the tired beast had been at- 
tempting to drag up the hill a large barrel of 
water curiously and clumsily fixed on an axle with 
two wheels. While he was here contemplating, ap- 
parently, his hard fate, as well as that of the com- 
panion of his toils, he discovered two horses, which 
a Gruzinsky had been abusing, and which had 
sprung away from him and started off at full tilt, 
coming furiously down the hill, dragging behind 
them an empty and capsized drosky. He knew 
the danger he was in, and he hurried as fast as his 
old legs could carry him to lead his own horse out 
of the way ; but ineffectually : the animal had 
done his best and now stood motionless, and 
awaited unconcernedly his fate. Down came the 
drosky and its attaches; and as animals thus 
frightened always, if possible, rush in among their 
kind, so these now pounced upon this motionless 
brute. The shock was tremendous. Down tum- 
21 



338 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

sectiok hi. kiefr a ii the three horses into one animated heap, 
while crash went the carriage against the cart, off 
broke both wheels, and drosky, cart, wheels, and 
the smashed water barrel, made up another pile of 
more quiet, but no less laughable confusion. The 
old man was dumb and motionless, for he saw 
before him the destruction of his only means of 
livelihood. The by-standers, however, could not 
help being amused, yet tried to restore to its origi- 
nal form the water-carrier's cart. It was of no 
avail ; the rotten axle had borne its last weight, 
and the wheels had made their last turn, so the 
aged sufferer turned away to the palace. He went 
at once to the chancelry under General SofFonoif 
and stated his misfortune. The general, who is 
ever accessible, and whose generous heart, like that 
of the prince, is ever touched by the plea of any 
friendly Circassian, immediately ordered a new cart 
to be made and equipped for him, while he sent to 
arrest the Gruzinsky, doubtless to make him suffer 
for his brutality and carelessness. 

My eternal saddle-bags being packed, and Ivan- 
hoe and myself perfectly enveloped in fur coats 
and boots, we had little to do when the wagon 
came, but to stow in our sack of hay and our 
provisions, (of which we had enough for two 
weeks) and mount and be off. We had three 
horses, which accorded with the order of the 



TOUR. TO THE CAUCASUS. 339 

pataroclgner. The weather was cold and clear, and SECTI0y m - 
when the crack of the whip sounded out en route 
for the Caucasus, my heart beat with new life. 

On passing the gate, or rather the pole (swung 
like a well-sweep,) of the city, we were asked 
by a soldier guard, if we belonged to the Russian 
service, and when he was informed, he allowed 
us to pass on without comment. We descended 
the steep banks of the Kur to the west of the 
city where stands a fine monument that com- 
memorates the visit of Emperor Nicholas, some 
few years ago, and passing a rather ancient and 
rustic looking bridge, we were soon speeding 
happily along the very road over which a few 
weeks before, I had been borne insensible. 

Our course at first lay by the right bank of 
the stream above mentioned, and the scenes which 
soon opened to our view were picturesque and 
often grand. On our left were irregular hills, 
which grew into a range of ragged rocks, that 
seemed to swim in the air above our heads, while 
on the other hand, undulating land stretched away 
to, and formed a fertile slope from some far-off 
mountains. Every thing was white with snow, 
except a few bleak, black crags that here and there 
stood out, too precipitously for the feathered water 
to light upon, and the front of an occasional 
Georgian hovel, on a hill-side. The watch-dog's 
21* 



340 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

ction in. Dar k that echoed in the valley, or a wreath of 
smoke that told of domestic comforts, were not 
unpleasant in this partial solitude. 

As we approached the place, about twenty versts 
from Tiflis, w T here I had been capsized and nearly 
killed, the beauty of the scenery increased and 
was now diversified by ruined castles and convents. 

The most inaccessible peaks seem to have been 
chosen, both by the monk and the soldier ; and 
strong battlements, now tumbling from their giddy 
heights, and monastic walls still well preserved, 
crowning a conical hill that shoots up into the very 
blue of heaven, make the approach to Mtskheta 
one of thrilling interest. It is not solely that 
they are lofty, that they are ruins, or that their 
history dates back to times when men had strange 
ideas of religion, and were endeavoring to modify 
idolatry and unite it with Christianity; or were 
so wedded to the one, that it was impossible at 
once to shake off its influence while they erected 
new temples, and bowed down to worship the 
unknown God ; — it is not solely that such asso- 
ciations cling around those ancient structures and 
hallow them, making them sacred beacons, and 
land-marks in the history and onward progress 
of civilization ; — it is not that they stand there 
as almost the sole records of a people long since 
passed away, and who erected them as durable 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 341 



Section III. 



monuments and did not dream of decay and 
change ; — it is not solely the imagination, which Ruins, 
influenced by the history of these great wrecks, 
gathers about them a halo of storied associations, 
and clothes them with a majesty and beauty no 
modern fabrics claim and time alone sanctities, 
but all these combined, that give them a power 
over the beholder which he cannot surmount and 
which he can never forget. The huge crack in 
that gigantic wall, which stands on the edge of 
that cliff one passes so near, shows that some con- 
vulsion of the earth has taken place, and that the 
deep ravine below is yet to receive those huge rocks 
that have for so many ages defied the storm, and you 
pause for a moment, as though you would wait to 
see it reel on its towering solid base and plunge into 
the fearful depths; while you shudder when you 
think of the crash and the shock, and pass timidly 
by lest it occur in an evil hour. The vine that 
binds its tottering stones, creeps into the crevices, 
or swings wildly in the wind, from the cloud crowned 
turrets, wreathes about your soul the charm of super- 
sition, and makes you feel that it has a life peculiar 
to its work — that in a sad and mournful sympathy 
in the decay which its. green arms, thrown about it, 
would stay, it sends out its broad leaves to shelter 
it, its drooping tendrils wide floating in the storm 
that would destroy it, and waits in solemn sadness 



342 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. , 

section hi. ^ g s { s ^ eY destiny. Besides all this, the light which 
gathers on these summits — the first golden hue of 
morning and the last of evening — fails not to im- 
press the devout with the idea that God thus shows 
His particular regard for them, while the gloom of 
their neighboring valleys, and the shadows of their 
own majestic forms cease not by these contrasts, to 
add to the sacred glory of the one and to the mythic 
somberness of the other. 

Mtskheta. Whatever Mtskheta (mentioned in a former sec- 
tion) might once have been as the capital of Georgia, 
and in the days of her splendor — whatever grand 
processions may have paraded her streets bearing 
to the hallowed precints of her churches all that 
remained of famed Georgian Kings who still rest 
here undisurbed — whatever monuments may have 
been reared here to victorious arms or civil worth 
— whatever festive scenes may here have glad- 
dened the old, and made gay the youth, no sem- 
blance of it now remains in attestation, but the 
pleasantness of its situation and its two sacred 
temples. As seen from the opposite bank, it bears 
no resemblance to a modern village, and looks 
rather like numerous dog-kennels dug into the 
side of the bank, than a place inhabited by human 
beings. 

Method of But these low, flat-roofed dwellings are not pecu- 

Building. , 

liar to this people; for the Persians, Armenians 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 343 

and Caucasians, have the same style of archi- SECTI0N m 
tecture. The Georgians, however, I think have 
availed themselves oftener — doubtless for econo- 
my's sake — of the advantages of a hill-side, as 
the labor is then much less in the formation of 
their abodes. The first operation appears to be 
this : Into the bank a square or oblong square 
hole is dug ; over this are then laid strong tim- 
bers ; the spaces between these are filled up with 
stones regularly and compactly placed ; being in 
their turn covered with dirt, and then sods, which 
make a platform differing little from the orignal hill- 
side, except that it is more level. This often serves 
for a promenade, a reception room for neighbors, a 
retreat in the cool of evening, or a place on which to 
tend babies, pick beans, thresh wool, or make a toi- 
lette ; while the apartments or more properly cellars 
below, are the bedrooms, kitchens and stables. 

The grassy surface of the roofs, thus constructed, 
resembles so much, as I have said, the adjacent hill 
sides, one might sometimes walk for a long distance 
on the tops of these houses without being aware that 
he was possibly shaking the dirt down into some- 
body's boiling pot, or dish of dough. Should it, 
however, happen to fall into some unfortunate baby's 
eyes, or should the smoke get into his own as it 
issued from the crevices beneath his feet, for want 
of a better way of escape, he might suddenly be 



344 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

Stonw IIL awakened to the peculiarity of his position. One 
is also liable to be considerably astonished, as was 
a Greek traveller, who related the following circum- 
stances to me. He was once driving through one 
of these Georgian villages, and unconsciously over 
the tops of the houses, when he suddenly found 
himself sitting alone in his sledge, his horse having 
disappeared though the roof of one of the dwell- 
ings, and alighted in its salon. 

The facade of these houses is built up frequently 
of plank, often with stones and mud, and sometimes 
with sticks and clay. The door-way is of ordinary 
size, but the windows vary in accordance with the 
position and intent of the building. If it be simply 
for a dwelling, the window, if any, is of very small 
size, — a simple square hole closed by a shutter ; if 
for a shop, it is large and usually has a platform in- 
side where articles on sale, or such as indicate the 
business of the occupant, are exposed. 

One now can easily imagine what must be the 
appearance of a town thus constructed. Almost 
entirely covered up by the earth which forms their 
three sides and roof, a European unacustomed to 
such sights, would not discover at a little distance 
that they were homes of the genus homo. The dark 
appearence of the open doors and windows, showing 
an entrance into the hill-side, would however natu- 
rally awaken enquiry, otherwise he might pass them 
without being aware of their use. 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 345 

This description answers for several other vil- Seotion m 
lages I have passed through, as well as for Mtsk- 
heta ; but I would not say that every Georgian 
house or shop is thus without imposing effect. I 
have seen some that had the appearance of the log 
huts in our western territories, others like the bam- 
boo houses of the Hindoos, and many in the large 
towns that would vie with some of the neatest of 
European structures ; verandas, or colonnades be- 
ing usually an agreeable feature of the latter. 

One very naturally asks, what kind of people 
they are who live in these hovels of the hills'? 
They are, or have been, the poor subjects and 
slaves of those petty princes and nobles of whom 
I shall speak more fully hereafter; and though 
their condition nominally, and their relationship to 
these ignorant and lordly masters, is materially 
changed by the modern laws of New-Russia, and 
their real state is somewhat modified by the influ- 
ence of her government, they are yet very far from 
being free from the effect of the old feudal institu- 
tions under which they have so long existed ; and 
not altogether divested of their habits of servility 
and dependence, and but slightly animated by any 
new intelligence or lofty aspirations. Their pov- 
erty begets that necessary economy which obliges 
them to construct their dwellings in the cheapest 
and easiest mode possible ; while, at the same time, 



346 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section in. t k e co ]^ £ wm t e r 5 which is here often severe and 
lasts for several months, adds a strong induce- 
ment to this mode of making their abodes in the 
ground. 

We passed between the two old churches of 
Mtskheta, (one of which has been mentioned), 
surrounded by indented walls, with their pictur- 
esque, if not strong, towers, and soon after des- 
cended to our first post-station. Here, the grand 
military road turns northward, while the other 
continues its course along the Georgian valley. 

The Am- We were delayed but a few moments, and those 
were occupied in removing our baggage and provi- 
sions to another wagon in accordance with the cus- 
tom of changing vehicles at every station. From 
here we had driven but three versts when the sun 
had set, and a beautiful rose-tint succeeded and 
flooded the whole west. We were on a plain, and 
near the banks of the Aragua — the Aragon of the 
ancients — on which are some ruins that relate to 
other times and of by-gone importance. This rocky 
stream, along which the road lies till it reaches the 
great Caucasian chain, rises among the hills of the 
Ocetians, and continuing first nearly % S. E., then S., 
enters the Kur not far from the little town that I 
have just described. 

Before it was dark several mounted huntsmen 
crossed our path and coursed away over the plain to 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 347 

the eastward. Their guns were swung to their Section nL 

backs and several rabbits at their saddle bows, while 

some small, lean, yellow, tired-looking dogs, trotted 

on behind. Our view, then of little extent, and 

bounded northward by some dark-looking object 

which appeared, on approach, to be a group of 

thatched houses, was soon made enchanting — the 

moon rising full and clear over the mountains. 

It was now time for our driver to take advantage A Cara- 
van. 
of the fine, smooth road, and he did so. His horses 

were set into a full run and several miles were swept 
over at a fearful speed, which was not slackened till 
we entered again the narrow passes. Here we came 
to a caravan halt. The animals were drawn up in 
two straight lines facing each other, with their heads 
fastened to the long and well arranged pile of mer- 
chandise their backs had been relieved of, and which 
their heels now protected from any strange ingress, 
by forming an active, and when put in motion, a 
rather dangerous wall of defence. Half away along 
this line a space about Hve yards square had been 
left, in which the drivers were collected around a 
large fire. Some were seated on mats, some on 
their bourkas, others on the snow, and all appeared 
attentively watching a large pot that doubtless con- 
tained their supper; but as we approached, one more 
athletic and probably more active than the rest, 
started from the ring and came to the edge of the 



348 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 



section hi. roa( j wnere we W ere to pass. I could not tell whe- 
ther he was one of the Circassians or not, though 
he wore their dress, and his long pistols and his 
two-edged cama hanging at his silver-studded belt, 
glistened in the light ; but as some of the Cossacks 
and many of the Gruzinsky wear this costume, it is 
difficult for a stranger to distinguish them till he 
is accustomed to their national features. When 
our formidable looking scrutinizer had satisfied his 
curiosity, he returned to the fire, and again formed 
one of the quiet number who were on guard around 
the aforesaid pot. 

The dark shadows of the base of the hills about 
us, the moon that poured its silvery flood on their 
summits, the lurid light that streamed along the 
encampment, falling on this group of curiously 
arrayed beings, made up a scene I can only remem- 
ber with a species of regret, since I cannot portray 
its strange beauties to others. 
Dushet. ^ nme oc l oc k we came to the pretty village of 
Dushet. Here we were told we could have no horses, 
as those in the stables did not exceed the number 
required to be kept constantly on hand, and that 
we must wait till some returned ; so we ordered the 
semivar and began making tea. 

During our meal which consisted of flour bread, 
cheese and cold sausage, we discussed the import- 
ance of preseverance in our designs, and concluded 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 349 

that we would not let the fellows rest till they gave S£CTI0N m - 
us what our patarodgner demanded. We accordingly 
ordered out the servant every few moments to inquire 
if there were no new arrivals, and to say that our 
mission required despatch. After several journeys to 
the stables, he came with an announcement that he 
thought it possible we might have what we desired, 
if one of us would go and urge it upon the keepers. 
My companion at once started — for we were really 
anxious not to lose so beautiful a night, — and in 
a short time returned with horses and a sledge. 

The new vehicle with which we were now to 
journey, though as rude in structure and appear- 
ance as human ingenuity could have made it, was 
vastly more agreeable, than we were to find the wag- 
ons ; for the snow was level and frozen hard upon 
the roads, and better sleighing could not be had. ■ 

The next post was short, but very hilly and ex- Ananoor. 
tremely picturesque ; and at midnight, after passing 
a few neat little houses along the banks of a small 
stream, and a dirty village clustered around the strong 
walls which encircled a church-yard and a venerable 
old church, we arrived at Ananoor. 

This station, imbedded among the mountains, like 
the others, had a strong picket of Cossacks ; who, to 
keep the road open and make it safe to travel on — 
this being, also, the route of the Petersburg couri- 
ers and of all the caravans that traffic between the 



350 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section in. Q eor gi an Capitol and the steppes of the north — 
pass to and fro on it continually. But now all were 
asleep, and when we drove into the yard, the two 
bells which hung in the hoop over the heads of our 
steeds jingled to no purpose, for neither hostler, 
keeper or Cossack, made their appearance. We 
soon, however, stirred up the right person, who, to 
get rid of us, signed our paper as quickly as pos- 
sible, took his money and ordered horses ; then 
shut his house and was doubtless fast asleep again 
before we had stamped our feet warm on his door- 
step. We were very thankful for the despatch, as 
no time could have been more cheerful to us for 
a journey, though it was so cold that our beards 
were caked with ice. 

From here the road was smooth as a bowling 
alley. We skirted the banks of the Aragua, and 
swept on through deep valleys that seemed without 
egress. Our postilion, our sledge, our animals, all 
were good ; and through gorges beautifully wild, 
and through passes that seemed but beds of glis- 
tening crystals, we rivalled in our speed Tarn 
O'Shanter with all the ghosts of inebriety at his 
heels. At three o'clock in the morning we were at 
Ptanaoor. 

Ptanaoor. The station of Ptanaoor occupies about the only 
spot in that region where a house could well be 
built, so narrow is the ravine and so precipitous 
are the mountains that form its sides. 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 351 

On arriving, a stupid looking servant came to SECTIoy IIL 
know our wants, and we ordered some wood for a 
fire. He informed us there w^as none. My compa- 
nion, angry at this news — as the government in- 
structs its serviteurs to have a fire always at these 
places — exclaimed: Yakinis atesch adjak its chinde, 
(make a fire) and hunt for wood ; and started after 
him with a stick. He ran out much frightened, 
and the Greek, on his return, said the fool had fled 
to the cliffs. So, cold as we were, we laid down to 
rest. 

Our choice of beds consisted of the floor, or the 
plank bottoms of two wooden bed-frames. Ivanhoe 
chose the former, on our sack of hay, and I, the 
latter, on my good fur coat, with my saddle-bags 
for a pillow. To sleep, however, I found impos- 
sible, so vivid in my mind were the scenes just 
passed through. The moment I closed my eyes, 
snow cliffs glistening in the light towered before 
them. I felt that the horses were flying away 
with me as if winged, and ravines closed up by 
white, massive barriers, and peaks girt with clouds 
and moon-light were sweeping past me, a whirlwind 
of splendid imagery. Two hours of effort sufficed, 
and at five o'clock I was up again, making new at- 
tempts to get a fire. My companion and two or 
three other travellers frozen out of sleep, came to 
aid me. We aroused an lod woman who lived in 



352 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section hi. ^q same walled yard and belonged to the estab- 
lishment, and she managed to get us some wood, 
though she said her son had not yet returned with 
that he went in search of when one of us chased 
him. She also brought the semivar with some 
good coals in it, and we busied ourself till morn- 
ing, toasting bread and making tea. 
Ocetian "We delayed our departure from here till ten 

Chalets. J r 

o'clock, for the purpose of having the company 
of a Georgian who was passing the mountain on 
some government mission. He was a very loqua- 
cious man ; told us of some narrow escapes he 
had had on this route, and of his having been shut 
up here for several weeks by avalanches, and made 
us believe that we should probably have occasion 
for each other's services as there was much to be 
apprehended in various ways — hostile demonstra- 
tions on the part of the natives, and accidents fre- 
quently occurring. We left him, however, behind? 
and did not see his anxious face again till at the 
next post station ; in fact we hardly thought of 
him, so absorbed were we in the variety and novel 
majesty of the objects that constantly called our at- 
tention. Little Ocetian abirefs now adorned the 
hill sides and crowned the almost inaccessible 
heights that on every side hemmed us in. Oc- 
casionally a solitary dwelling, a fortress, or ruined 
wall stood boldly out on some jutting crag, that, 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 353 

high up, looked down on, and commanded the S£CTIOt * m - 
deep valley below, while on the loftiest summits 
arose those tall, picturesque watch towers so ser- 
viceable to these people when they would give an 
alarm, or call their widely-scattered hosts toge- 
ther. 

The few villages we saw were very small and Villages. 
mean, consisting, perhaps, of twenty or thirty 
buildings, much in the Georgian style of architec- 
ture, when on the sides of mountains, though, ge- 
nerally, stronger ; some looking like little castles, 
having heavy stone walls well built, and in posi- 
tions easy of defence. In such situations as the 
last mentioned, the roofs of the lower range of 
houses, constitute the yard or platform of those 
immediately above and behind them ; and on these 
roofs at this season are placed the stacks of hay 
which serve the occupant's horses for food, keep 
the building below warm, shelter somewhat the 
dwellings they stand in front of as a kind of out- 
post, and look, at least, in such a position, oddly 
enough. 

What child, I again and again exclaimed, could 
be cradled among these solemn hills and not pos- 
sess a daring and adventurous spirit ! Of what 
race could they be who could dwell amid these 
all-imposing and majestic scenes and not become 
a people bold, fearless, and unconquerable ! Who 
22 



354 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

seotion m. (.Quid sleep and wake on these crags — course 
along the gulfs and glens, and not imbibe a love 
for them lasting as life ! None can do it — none 
have ever done it ! 

The Pas- Towards the end of this post — a distance of 

sage. 

about twenty-five versts — we commenced a very 
steep ascent. We were obliged to dismount, and 
even then it was almost impossible for our horses 
to drag up the empty sledge. The ice impeded 
them, and one or another of the three fell at al- 
most every step. We were no more successful at 
first than they. I could not advance ; on the con- 
trary, I slid down a considerable distance, and was 
stopped only by the aid of a Circassian. He was 
descending with his oxen, dragging some logs of 
wood down to a little village at the base of the 
hill, and seeing my difficulty, came at once to me, 
took off his cap, kneeled down and removed my 
large over-boots, which having no heels, and being 
very smooth, prevented my retaining any hold in 
the hard snow. Then, by catching the projecting 
rocks of the right bank I assisted myself along, and 
after an hour or so of hard work arrived at a spot a 
little more level, but still fearfully steep, when I 
again took the sledge and proceeded upward. 

For a long time as we climbed the mountain 
side we could see down into the valley we had left, 
and far along the road discern moving objects, men 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 355 

and horses ; but no where could the vehicle of the Secti °* 1IL 
Georgian, that was to accompany us, be distin- 
guished, and we began to doubt of his fate, and 
fear that he might have another adventure to add 
to his already ample catalogue. When that scene 
was shut out from our view, our postillion in- 
formed us we were to see no more level land till 
beyond the Caucasus. 

As we approached the next station, vast ruins of 
numerous strong works lay on either hand, which 
probably once commanded this solitary and lofty 
pass. 

Far to the right, a way opened among some 
white mountain peaks where the light fell with 
peculiar brilliancy ; while here and there watch- 
towers indicated their utility to the distant dwellers. 

On our arrival at Kaitoor, ( Kaischaurt-Kari,) 
we determined to wait awhile for our new ac- 
quaintance, wishing more than ever his companion- 
ship as we were now to go over the most danger- 
ous part of the whole route. This station — not 
walled in like the others — with its stables and 
other outhouses, and men clothed in check frocks, 
and with yellowish hair, out of which the hay and 
chaff had not been combed, reminded me of some 
active farmer's establishment, at least when its po- 
sition was not considered ; but when I looked be- 
yond this abode of a few poor Eussian soldiers I 
22* 



'356 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

saogioM ni, f oun( j myself girded about by mountains whose 
summits the eye could not reach, with here and 
there the little fortress-like dwellings of the natives, 
who, it would seem, must derive their sustenance 
from heaven. 

Steep As- In about half an hour our Georgian came, and a 

ceot 

little after one o'clock we commenced our further 
ascent, and entered among sights and scenes mag- 
nificent beyond all description. No pencil could 
paint them — no language could approach their 
sublimity. Ivanhoe had twice passed the Alps and 
the Pyranees, and his expression was " these are 
a hundred times more grand !" Our horses were 
immensely large and strong, and they carried us 
steadily upward, though it sometimes seemed as if 
they would fall back upon the sledge, so steep was 
the road. But on and up, still up they climbed 
through drifts of snow, through clouds, along un- 
guarded brinks of precipices, till my head reeled in 
the giddy splendor of the scene. Still on and up 
they went, and every moment teemed with new 
grandeur and beauty ; and when skirting along the 
edge of a chasm thousands of feet deep, with snowy 
peaks still towering above our heads, the sun burst- 
ing through clouds in which we were enveloped, 
and lying on far off seeming hills of crystal ; and 
earth and air and sky were one confused mass ; I 
could not but exclaim : My soul is full, O, God ! 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 357 

Still on and up we went, and still the mountains 8BCWC * HT 
wrapped in their pure, white sheets of snow, aw- 
fully sublime, terrific in their majesty, were soaring 
yet above us. Heaven seemed to have come down 
upon us, and we were in the midst of its aw- 
ful beauties and mysterious shadowings, and our 
hearts stood still. There was something in it all, 
that won such perfect resignation to the Omni- 
scient, that it called to mind Willis's divine " In- 
voluntary Prayer of Happiness." 

In only one place, however, in this route, 
were we in visible danger. The snow had been 
driven, down from the heights, and filled up the 
most difficult pass. Laborers had been at work 
for several days, but they had as yet succeeded 
in opening only a narrow way about two feet wider 
than our sledge, This was on the very edge of 
a ravine where the slightest deviation from these 
narrow limits would have hurled us into a gulf 
where no human being would have ever sought 
us. From my seat in the sledge, without leaning 
over, I could look down into an abyss that seemed 
fathomless so near were we to its very edge. The 
off horse frightened at his proximity to danger, 
crowded the right one into the bank, and in doing 
so, slipped one of his hind feet over the brink. It 
was an instant of intense agony to all ; but the 
others saved him from falling for they were spring- 



358 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section iil £ n g f ur i usly through the soft snow into which 
they sank almost to the girth. Added to this, the 
road here was exceedingly steep, and with a pain- 
ful anxiety we hung on the success of our nohle 
animals ; and for a few moments, I think neither I 
nor my companion spoke or breathed. The peril 
passed, our hearts beat again, and our gratitude to 
Him who had protected us and in the majesty of 
whose presence we felt that we were moving, found 
audible utterance. 

Kasbek. The height of Mount Kasbek which arose beside 
us seventeen thousand and fifty-eight feet, sur- 
passes that of Mount Ararat by eight hundred 
and sixty-four feet ; and it (Kasbek), or Mount 
Elberous, is for this reason supposed by many 
learned men of the East, to have been the resting 
place of the ark. General Nesteroff said our great- 
est elevation in this passage of the Kasbek could 
be only four or five hundred toises less than the 
extreme height of the mountain, and from what 
we saw and felt we were willing to believe it. 

The Des- From here we began our descent through nar- 
row and frightful ways, which to look down, 
seemed impossible to pass without perilling our 
lives ; and now to reverse the danger of our ascent 
it appeared as though we should be thrown over 
upon the horses and arrive at the bottom of some 
^fearful chasm to be buried under the first ava- 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 359 

lanche that might precipitate itself upon our de- SsCTI0N m 
fenceless remains. But thanks to our good ani- 
mals and strong tackling, no accident occurred 
till on less dangerous ground, when we were cap- 
sized by passing too swiftly over the edge of a pro- 
jecting bank. The injury sustained by any one 
was very slight, and no detention ensued. We 
were soon, however, placed in a very awkward 
position by meeting a carriage in one of those 
places where the road was wide enough for only a 
single vehicle, and where on one hand were perpen- 
dicular heaven-piercing walls of snow, and on the 
other, abrupt precipices. It was a four-wheeled 
carriage, and was drawn by twenty oxen, (the 
horses being incapable of the work,) and was 
accompanied by about the same number of men, 
who, accustomed to the business, had been hired 
to carry it over the mountains. Its Russian 
owner, too much frightened to ride in such a 
place, was tugging on behind, and seemed doubly 
confused and alarmed when we descended upon 
him from the heights he had yet to climb. We 
dismounted and soon had our sledge thrust into 
the aforesaid snow-bank, and our horses unhitched 
and arranged in single file ahead of it, while we 
waited, with some anxiety, to see how near these 
teamsters could drive to the tipping-off-place and 
yet pass us safely. 



360 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 



Seotiom in 



ar.i7.sers. 



In less than a quarter of an hour we were slid- 
Mount- ing down these hills again. But before reaching 
the next station, Kobee, we had a fine specimen of 
horsemanship, for which these fearless mountain- 
eers are so celebrated, and something that showed 
to us the ability of the animals used here. A 
mounted Ocetian seeing us coming, sprang his 
horse up a high steep bank that seemed impos- 
sible for any animal other than a cat to ascend. 
He then spurred him on, leaped a broad ravine, 
descended to the Terek, which here takes its rise, 
sprang across it, and in an instant had reached a 
bold and commanding position on the opposite 
bank. Whether his horse was restive, or had 
too much spirit, and he had done this to quiet 
him ; or whether he wished to show us, thinking 
us to be Russians, what kind of men we had to 
subdue, we could not tell, but there was a daring 
in it which challenged admiration. On the rock 
he remained, fixed as a statue, till we were out of 
sight. We met soon after several other Caucas- 
ians — I need not say mounted, for they are sel- 
dom off of their horses — who were dashing up to- 
wards the place where we had just left their coun- 
tryman ; and it now occurred to us that he might 
have sought that lofty place in order to have a 
more extensive view of the road, and discover if 
possible the approach of his friends for whom he 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 361 

appeared anxiously waiting. In either case, their Sxcn0N m - 
movements aroused many conjectures, and some 
suspicious, for I recollected well what Captain 
Matoosky had told me, that when I met a man in 
Circassian costume without boots, I must show 
him that I was armed. If the first, however, had 
been sent on to reconnoitre and give an alarm if ne- 
cessary, the inquiry naturally arose, for what pur- 
pose 1 And if he had no such object, why was he 
there alone, so uselessly, except in connexion with 
the movements of others, and which his desire to 
avoid us, and the singular isolated and elevated 
spot he had sought, went far to prove ? Good for- 
tune ever accompanied us, and we arrived without 
molestation or other accident at Kobee. 

The difficulties attending this dangerous way The Te- 
were such that our progress had been very slow, i ts bor- 
though it sometime seemed that we were descend- 
ing with the speed of a well shot arrow ; and be- 
fore we reached the station where we were to 
spend the night darkness and gloom had gathered 
around us in the gloomiest and most frightful of 
valleys. The Terek which a few miles above us 
was but a babbling stream had now grown into a 
fierce mountain torrent, sweeping away under the 
long bridges it had made of the avalanches that 
had come down to dam up its course, and tumbling 
over the massive rocks that formed its bed, hurried 



362 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section in . a | on ^ towards the plains of Corbarda, and Koom- 
ewkay. But the ride was not solitary ; the giant 
forms that towered on every hand and their deep 
shadows, had all the interest of living and breath- 
ing things. Lights gleamed along from cliff to 
cliff, and, occasionally, as we passed some deep 
gorge opening up into the mountains back, the 
fire of a cottage, seen through its open door, 
blazed brightly on our sight for a moment, then 
disappeared, leaving us to conjecture its height, its 
distance, and what kind of people might be around 
it. We drove into the enclosed court-yard of Ko- 
bee, just as the loftiest peaks lying north and south 
of the pass, were touched with the silver light of 
the rising moon, but there were long hours before 
it could reach the roof of our humble, and amid 
such grandeur, our seemingly pigmy dormitory. 

A Tem- The weather was deemed excessively cold, but 
the kind postman had made every provision for our 
comfort, and after our usual meal, we laid down to 
rest. We were certain to sleep for we had been 
thirty-nine hours without any, and were much fa- 
tigued. Our repose was undisturbed till a little 
after midnight when one of the terrific tempests 
which shake the earth to its very centre howled 
mournfully through the valley. I remembered 
that we were near the place of the sufferings of the 
wretched Prometheus, but was soothed in the re- 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 363 

flection that by his tender sympathies, through this Sectios m 
very pass the fair unhappy Io had been directed, 
when on her way to Egypt to avoid the anger of 
Juno, jealous of her as having yielded herself to 
the embraces of Jupiter. But the spirit of Prome- 
theus may now have been provoked by our preced- 
ing forgetfulness, and evoked Eolus ; for the hissing 
wind seemed to have come down from every glacis 
and glen, and here pent up to writhe in its angry 
majesty, then sweep on through the deep gorge, 
the storm-fiend moaning in his might. Its sound 
at first was like that of the flight of many birds ; 
then like the roaring of the sea ; but when it ga- 
thered all the terrors of its own, and in its fierce 
strength rolled along the iron bases of these mighty 
cliffs, universal desolation appeared at hand. At 
such times the avalanches are hurled from their 
giddy heights, and men stand still with awe ; and 
fear seizes upon all who have not dwelt amid, and 
become familiar with, such scenes. In an hour it 
had passed away, and the quiet and calm which 
succeeded it, made us feel as though all animate 
objects had ceased to be, and death and silence 
reigned supreme. 

Morning came again, bright and clear. We a Rock. 
whirled around an antique looking temple, and 
were again by the banks of the Terek on a road 
rugged and rough, but with ceaseless images that 



es. 



364 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

KTl0V filled the mind with wonder and astonishment- 
We passed under rocks weighing thousands of 
tons, which hung over the way and appeared ready- 
to fall. One of immense magnitude had been 
shaken from its bed, and started on its thunder- 
ing course to the valley ; but a very small stone 
serving at its base as a wedge, held the trembling 
mass suspended in the air, and no one could pass 
it without feeling that the rumbling of the carriage 
or the very step of the horses, might bring it down 
upon them. 
Avaianch In 1832, an avalanch, or rather slide, occurred 
here, which filled up the entire valley for the dist- 
ance of two versts, and cut off for three months all 
communication between Georgia and the north of 
New-Russia. The quantity of earth which fell was 
so great, and the stones of such vast dimensions, 
that it was found impossible to open a road through 
them ; consequently, it was in many places cut into 
the very granite hills themselves, while the Terek 
being dammed up formed a deep lake above. To 
render this way passable again for carriages was a 
work of time, incredible labor and expense. The 
importance of it, however, as a means of communi- 
cation was too well known to the segacious prince 
to be neglected, and a large number of workmen 
were put upon it. 

In the space of the three months above menti- 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 365 

oned, the courier passed there on his way to St. Pe- Section m 
tersburgh, bearing to the emperor the welcome in- 
telligence of the successful termination of the 
enterprise. Had this pass remained closed, the 
trans-Caucasians might have been too ready to rise 
in rebellion against the small armed force that holds 
them in subjection ; for their isolated condition 
would have given them a power which they are well 
aware would now be unavailing ; and though quickly 
aroused would quickly be subdued by the hosts of 
Cossacks who could be poured down upon them 
from the north by this valley of the Kasbek. 

This great slide, which for more than a mile, has 
piled desolarion upon desolation, fortunately occur- 
red in the night, and consequently no one was in- 
jured ; for, after dark, said our postilion, no traveler 
continues here his journey, the government not per- 
mitting it on account of the Circassian robbers so 
liable to be met with. If the government thus in 
interests itself in this matter, thought I, I am ra- 
ther inclined to believe, when looking on the impe- 
diments to a safe passage thrown in the way by this 
fearful launch of earth, unguarded precipices, &c., 
that it arises from a desire rather to save the travel- 
er's carcase from the crows than his purse from the 
highway-man. It is not, however, the case ; for 
Capt. Wilberham states, in his " Travels in the Trans- 
Caucasian Provinces" that he passed those frightful 



366 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

sectiojt in. p][ aces I have described, in the night, and says that 
if his eyes did not deceive him, he was on the brink 
of some tremendous precipices. 
A Con- Opposite Kobee, at an immense elevation on the 
heights rising abruptly from the banks of the Terek, 
stands a church or convent called Tzminda Giorge, 
the history of which I could not learn. It points 
at least heavenward, and is as near there as mortals 
are likely to get without leaving this earth. It had 
also a cheerful look, for it enjoys there, the bright 
light of day, which the valley below holds no 
communion with, resting in a continual gloom, 
which these bare black walls, without tree or 
shrub, ever throw over it. The route, however, is 
never for an instant devoid of a peculiar interest, 
nor ceases to yield the joy of novelty and a thrill 
of strange excitement. The pass is called by the 
Ocetians, Arive-Kum, Valley of Heaven's Rocks. 

Before coming to Kasbek, the next station, we 
went through the narrowest part of this ravine, 
which is defended by a low small fortress, new, and 
of a very picturesque shape — a kind of mighty 
castle in miniature. Near this stand the ruins of 
the ancient fortification of Dariela, crowning a high 
rock, ascended by a steep stair-way, cut in its side. 
Dariela, Dariela — a name supposed to be derived from 
the Tartar words Dar and Jol, signifying narrow 
and pass — is said in Georgian history to have been 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 06I 

built by their king, Mirwan, who reigned from 167 S£CTIoy m 
to 123 B. C. Here there is no doubt were the great 
Caucasian Gates, so celebrated among the ancients, 
and of which Pliny says — "A prodigious work of 
nature, between abrupt precipices, where are gates 
closed with iron bars, under which runs the river 
Diriodoris. On this side of it, upon a rock, stands 
a castle, which is called Cumania, and is so strongly 
fortified that as to be capable of withstanding the 
passage of an innumerable army." Few places in 
the world are so remarkable by nature, few so cele- 
brated in history ; and in a future work I hope to 
be able to bring together much that is interesting 
concerning it. 

Immediately after passing Dariela, we crossed the 
Terek by a wooden bridge, and continuing for a 
little distance on its western bank, came to a sen- 
try box, where an armed soldier is always walking, 
to give an alarm to the little fortress back, in case 
any body of Circassians should attempt to force 
this narrow gorge ; — the narrow river and the nar- 
rower road, constituting its entire width. We soon 
after met two well mounted natives, who most ci- 
villy drew up their horses to allow us to pass, then 
disappeared among the huge rocks of the ravine as 
though their safety depended on their speed. Each 
had a gun swung at his back, pistols in his belt, 
and the ever conspicuous cama — an instrument 



368 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

Sc0TI0N m as fatal in a Caucasian's hands as their poisoned 
arrows. 

Kasbek. Kasbek is situated in a more open space than 
any other of the settlements in the mountains, and 
from several small dwellings gathered about the 
station may perhaps be called a village. I saw, 
however, no persons there save Russians, connected 
with the post, a couple of camel-drivers, and a 
Georgian merchant. 
Larze. Our fresh horses were soon ready, and after the 
change 6f carriage, luggage, &c., we continued on 
towards Larze. Agreeably surprised at the neat- 
ness of many of the buildings, nearly all Russian, 
however, which stood on either hand of the short 
street which we drove through on entering the little 
town, w r e went at once to the post-station, where 
I witnessed as pleasant an exhibition of domestic 
comfort and happiness, on a small scale, as could 
be met with. The house consisted of three rooms, 
about seven feet high and fourteen feet square* 
The master of the establishment sat at his desk' 
with a neat little dog on one hand and a neat little 
wife on the other. Beside them was a good bed, 
with curtains, and on it a little well dressed child, 
playing with a kitten. We were politely conducted 
into the other front room, where our Georgian 
friend made himself pleasantly merry, by drinking 
a little arrak, which he carried with him as most 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. ,369 

travellers here do. The third room had a large Section iil 
oven in it, in which was some bread baking. By a 
rear door was the entrance to the house and egress 
to a very neat court. This chaumine forms one of a 
row, built against a lofty range of rock, on the ter- 
mination of which to the eastward, stands a massive 
tower and strong old wails. These guarded the 
pass which is made exceedingly narrow by the near 
approach of the mountains opposite each other at 
this point, and now add a peculiarly picturesque 
effect to this pleasant and snug dwelling spot. Our 
delay here of several hours was owing to the keep- 
ers refusing to give us horses, as he expected a ge- 
neral to arrive soon, and there were no more than 
were wanted for him. On showing him, however, 
my letters from the prince, he concluded it was best 
to furnish me, and not long after they were driven 
to the door, and we were on one of the finest of 
roads, and amid such scenery as is often described 
by travellers over the Alps. 

We had had no reason to congratulate ourselves Diffic 
on the courtesy and general urbanity of those con- Driver. 
nected with the post department, though we had 
had no difficulty in proceeding quietly, and without 
molestation, till after we left Larze. On starting 
from there, the driver informed us that he would go 
fast, provided we would give to him half a silver 
ruble. This proposition we most respectfully dc- 
23 



3T0 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

38CTI0K nt. dined^ it being the first demand of the kind we had 
heard, and being well aware that such a thing was 
illegal, and would be punished if made known to 
his employers. The fellow then pretended he had 
dropped his gloves and must return for them, and 
stopped his horses to make delay under pretence of 
talking about them. My companion insisted on his 
proceeding, and did it with such an earnestness that 
the driver thought it best to continue, though he 
did it with great reluctance, drawing up his horses 
every few moments, as if resolved to turn about. 
He, however, went on till he came to a small house 
occupied by some soldiers, in front of which were 
two mounted cannon, and a new fortress to guard 
the pass ; here he dismounted to light his pipe. 
He left us sitting in the wagon (there were no 
sledges at the last post, so we were obliged to re- 
turn to the vile four-wheeled vehicle,) till our pa- 
tience was gone, and we resolved to show him some 
of the results of our determination ; so we marched 
after him and soon brought him back to his seat. 
Angry, and more obstinate than ever, he drove on 
at the slowest possible walk, and when I was satis- 
fied that no urging could induce him to proceed, I 
quietly slipped off my clumsy fur coat, and taking 
a heavy pistol from my pocket, I grappled him 
firmly by the collar about his throat, and hit him a 
heavy rap over the head with the weapon. He 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 371 

dropped the reins in utter confusion, but recovering Seotion nL 
a little, said he would dismount, and leave us to do 
as we pleased. 

He did not find it easy to put his resolution into 
practice, for my hold on him was too sure, and fix- 
ing him to his seat I obliged him, with the pistol 
as my chief' argument, to resume his reins and pro- 
ceed at a rapid pace. Knowing then what he had 
to expect from further opposition to our wishes, he 
promised to do well. He did so, and became ex- 
ceedingly civil, and did not leave his place again 
without asking permission, and stating most respect- 
fully his object. At the end of the journey he was 
more humble than ever, took off his cap, bowed 
very low in hopes to escape being reported to the 
authorities. 

A few versts beyond the fortification above men- Cossack 
tioned, we came to a picket of Cossacks, stationed 
in a large hole which was walled up like a cellar. 
Here they kept a fire, and their principal occupa- 
tion appeared to be to supply it to travellers to light 
their pipes with. Five or six versts further along, 
we passed two other Cossacks, lying by a fire, on 
some hay on the snow. Their horses beside them 
were quietly eating away at the beds of their mas- 
ters, while their still well girt saddles and bridled 
mouths showed that they were at any instant ready 
to be messengers of good or bad import. All th< 
23* 



cas. 



372 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS, 

actios in. p rC autions, though there appeared to us no danger 
in travelling this road, showed too well the state of 
the country we were passing through, and how 
much confidence the government had in the good 
faith and quiet of those tribes, nominally subdued 
and called friendly. 

Vladicaw- Early in the afternoon we arrived at Vladicawcas. 
This town is situated a little beyond the terminus 
of the Kasbek pass, and at the opening of those 
vast plains which stretch away almost boundlessly 
northward, and eastward to the Caspian sea. The 
Terek passes through it, and here the present gov- 
ernor, General NesterorT, has built a long and most 
excellent wooden bridge, and laid out on its banks 
a pleasant drive and promenade. The town has a 
healthy and important locality, and is the grand 
entrepot of all merchandize passing between Geor- 
gia and the north of New Russia. It has now 
some six or seven thousand inhabitants, several very 
handsome broad streets, public squares, &c, and is 
rapidly increasing in size, under the mild and just 
administration of its distinguished head. Large 
barracks have been built, and extensive neat hos- 
pitals for the sick. In the latter every improve- 
ment has been adopted to give comfort, and allow 
air and exercise to the patients, while the former 
by their good situation and cleanliness, show the 
importance attached to them. Two new and hand- 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 373 

some hotels, quite in modern style, stand on one of SECTI0S ln 
the largest squares, and many well-stored shops are 
the other manifestations of the thriftiness of the 
town. 

We drove at once to the elegant mansion of Gen- General 

Nestero£\ 

eral NesterofF, to whom one of the letters the 
prince gave me was directed, and he received us 
with the most marked cordiality. He presented us 
to a distinguished officer, who was in company with 
him, and ordered up some excellent cordial, which 
he very properly supposed would be quite accepti- 
ble after our fatiguing and cold ride. Apartments 
well furnished were allotted us, and we were at 
once made to feel at home ; but as our stay with 
him was to be short, he commenced with that busi- 
ness-like despatch which characterises alike the ci- 
vil and military officers of the viceroy, to plan out 
the best mode by which we could visit the neigh- 
boring Circassians. 

As all our excursions were now to be under the 
governor's directions, his horses were put at our dis- 
position, and also his carriage, and an extremely gen- 
teel establishment it was. His three little Arabians, 
shining like satin, were soon harnessed abreast, and 
animals could not show their pleasure and content 
by graceful speed and harmless antics more entirely 
than they did when they were coursing with us 
across the plains of Vladicawcas. A broad purely 



374 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

szCTioy in yfoite cloth was fastened to the saddle-bow of each 
horse, passed over his back, and was then attached 
to the Whipple tree. These floated over them as 
they sped along, and prevented all mnd, dust or 
snow from flying into the carriage, while it gave 
them a peculiarly airy and light appearance. The 
general looked on this with evident satisfaction, 
as well as on the growing town, almost a creation 
of his own, which lay below, and in full view 
of the commanding position occupied by his stately 
dwelling. 
Oircas- The first Circassian "village we here visited, and 
lage. which I expected would look more characteristically 
of the people than the others I had seen, was only 
a few versts from Vladicawcas ; and when I ap- 
proached it, my heart sank within me at the uni- 
versal semblance of poverty. Are these the homes, 
said I to myself, of that people who, in my own 
country, bear such a charmed name, — about whose 
history hangs so mysterious a halo — associated 
with all that is noble and chivalrous in the field, 
all that is spirited and patriotic in the council, all 
that is dignified and constant in religion, and all 
that is most fascinating at the fire-side and admira- 
ble in the domestic circle ] Are these the habita- 
tions, thought I, in which are cradled those beau- 
ties that have filled all the harems of the East with 
their charms, and the rest of the world with envy,. 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 375 

wonder and desire 1 Under these low roofs can S£Cno ™ m - 
lofty spirits arise that aspire to soar above the fierce 
black eagle of the North 1 Out of such walls can 
there issue men who dare defy the iron engines of 
their mighty enemy "? and turning to the general, 
to whom I had addressed these two last questions, 
he answered : " Such are their habitations — such 
are all the homes of this far-famed people ; but," 
continued he, " they are not all poor — not so 
wretched as the exterior, and even the interior of 
their abodes would indicate to a stranger. Some of 
them have thousands of dollars concealed in the 
ground, but whether they have little or much they 
make no change in their domestic arrangements, 
and exhibit no new signs of prosperity. Many of 
them are constantly employed by the Russians, and 
are well paid; but they live on, as their fathers 
lived before them — as ignorant as brutes of the 
comforts that their money could procure for them, 
and apparently entirely indifferent to them." 

The town seemed to be encircled by a mud and 
plank wall over which were seen the pointed 
thatched roofs of the buildings within. This ap- 
pearance arises from the manner in which they are 
made and not from their being wholly enclosed ; 
for they are all, that is exteriorly towards the 
street, perfectly plain, without window or door, 
and surround a hollow square entered by a gate- 



8 16 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section- hi. wa ^ This, as we can well imagine, gives a particu- 
larly unsocial and uninteresting, if not to say disa- 
greeable, and mean effect to such towns. But this 
style is not peculiarly Circassian ; it is Oriental ; is 
Brarnin as well as Mahometan, and arises principal- 
ly from a desire to keep their females from vulgar 
observation, which the followers of the prophet as 
well as Brama appear to regard as a sacred obliga- 
tion. There are, however, many advantages accru- 
ing from this which would not perhaps be at once 
apparent. In the first place, there is but one in- 
gress to the yard to be guarded, and a good dog, of 
which I found these people fond, can well take 
charge of that. Secondly, the master, by stepping 
to his door, commands a view of all he possesses — 
buildings, cattle, carts, hay, &c., &c., and can with- 
out trouble, satisfy himself that all are safe — as 
well as his women, who have no opportunity to 
flirt with passers by, the only window in their apart- 
ment looking on to the court. Fourthly, neither 
his cattle nor his children trespass on his neighbor's 
property, by breaking down or creeping through 
the dividing fence. Fifthly, no obtrusive neigh- 
bor's gaze finds out his home employment and in- 
ternal domestic arrangements, of which the mean 
and the envious are ever so ready to make their bu- 
siness and concern, and a subject of contemptuous 
observation. And lastly, when he has thus within 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 377 

his grasp, and under his control, all that he pos- S£CTI0X In 
sesses, he feels a kind of independence and satisfac- 
tion which this, " being lord of all that one sur- 
veys," is apt to create. 

When we had examined the exterior of the vil- 
lage, and which presented nothing of interest, we 
dismounted at an open gate and entered one of 

these courts above described. It was about thirty 
feet square in the clear, was strewn over with 

much waste hay, and had the appearance of a New 

England barn-yard ; and was on every side shut in 

by buildings. These were all very mean, and none 

of them could exclude the cold or even the snow, 

except the female apartment, which being made of 

thick hewn plank with the crevices filled up with 

mud, appeared as though it might easily be kept 

warm. The fronts of some of the others were of 

simple wicker work. These served for the cows, 

the horses, and the hens. In the centre of the 

yard was a small pile of long wood which an old 

man was chopping. He manifested much surprise 

at our arrival — perhaps he thought, intrusion — 

and made no sign of recognition or welcome, but 

stood resting his hands on the top of his axe. He 

had, doubtless, previously seen the general, and 

knew who he was, and his silence might now have 

arisen from a fear that the governor's presence was 

a portent of no good. The general, however, spoke 



378 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

Section III. 



to him mildly and told him the object of our visit ; 
but he made no reply, and as we walked round to 
examine the premises his white beard seemed to 
lengthen on his breast. We were not entirely free 
from our share of disturbance, for no sooner was a 
stranger's voice heard in the square, before a huge 
wolfish dog rushed from the dwelling house fol- 
lowed by two men, and was about to attack us 
tooth and nail. One of these persons, however, 
called loudly to him, then gathered up a stick and 
protected us from his jaws while we remained, he 
seeming determined to have a grip at us, occasion- 
ally showing his teeth, though not smilingly or 
amiably. The noise was not without its good ef- 
fect, as it brought also to the door three young Cir- 
cassian women. They appeared not at all dis- 
turbed, and did not cover their faces as I expected 
they would. I had already seen many of these 
people passably fair, some with faultless features, 
but here I expected to meet with those incompar- 
able paradigms of all that is admirable and fasci- 
nating in feminine form and loveliness — the excess 
of beauty which has drawn to these wilds many a 
romantic thought, and awakened curiosity in the 
remotest parts of the habitable globe ; but I was to 
be somewhat disappointed. The one who first 
came out was about fifteen years of age, slender, 
and with rather a sweet visage. She had over her 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 379 

head a long piece of white cotton cloth that hung S£CT10N m 
ungathered on one side, while that on the other, 
passing under the chin was thrown back over the 
shoulder so as to conceal the neck and bosom. She 
wore also a long dark dress from under which her 
still longer pantaloons were seen, and over which 
she had a short maroon colored frock open in 
front, fitting pretty well the waist, and falling to 
the knees. On her foot there was no stocking, 
but an indifferent babouche. This completed her 
dress, and when she had completed a survey of us, 
and we of her, she retreated to her apartment and 
stood at the window. The two others were more 
healthy looking, and might have passed for brilliant 
country lasses. 

We desired now to examine the interior of their An inte- 
dwelling, but the general with that kindness which 
marks all his intercourse with the natives — though 
he knew his request would be granted as a com- 
mand — not wishing to ask a favor that might be 
disagreeable or at variance with their customs, left 
us to the guidance of our curiosity, supposing, that 
as foreigners, we should be excused. With all due 
deference, and with the smiling assent of the young 
men, we continued our observations. There were 
in this building two apartments. The first, some 
fifteen feet square, much cluttered up with farm- 
ing utensils, saddles, and weapons, had no light but 



380 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

sectiox hi. f rom the door-way. The inner-room was larger, 
had a fire on the dirt floor at the extremity, and 
was lighted by a hole about eight inches square, 
which I have called a window. 

On one side of the apartment extended a wooden 
platform, about six feet broad and two high. This 
was covered with a mat, and served as a seat and 
bed. The walls were ornamented with cooking 
utensils and female apparel ; but the darkness pre- 
vented my seeing well the whole of the arrange- 
ments, as no light was admitted except through that 
one square hole just mentioned ; and from that it 
was partly excluded by the low descent of the eaves. 
How these women can live continually thus, and 
and not become blind, or not suffer extreme pain 
when they go out into the fair sunshine — how 
they can see to work to weave and embroider, 
as meny of them do exquisitely, or how, in such 
places, fine healthy and robust forms can be pro- 
duced, appeared to me extremely strange. But I 
was aware however, at least I rather hoped, that 
the ones I now saw were not fair samples of Circas- 
sian homes, and that the females were not always 
penned up in these dark hovels excluded from both 
light and air, so I turned to the court again, where 
things more pleased me. Opposite to the house, a 
stout pair of oxen were feeding, and also a cow and 
a fine horse. Some hens were strolling about with 



tions. 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 381 

very contented aspects, but they were the only S3cnoNT IIT - 
creatures that seemed to regard us without suspi- 
cion. We passed out of the yard while the women 
as well as the dog and the other animals watched 
us narrowly, and when I last turned to look upon 
the group, the old man I had first seen with his 
left foot on the log he had been cutting, stood 
there still motionless as a statue, his hands rest- 
ing on the top of his axe. 

We remained in the neighborhood for some time Reflec- 
examining the various features of the place, but 
every thing had the same air of squallidness and 
heathenish existence, without the shade of refine- 
ment or hardly of comfort ; and when I left them, 
I was more than ever impressed with the import- 
ance of a new system of things — a new religion, 
and a new government, and with the inestimable 
value of those institutions compared with their 
present ones, with which Russian intelligence is 
now surrounding them. For, when one looks on 
the primitive state of this people — the condition 
in which, without advancement, they have existed 
for long ages ; when one sees that they cannot 
retrograde, there being no position in the scale of 
human existence beneath them, he has a confidence 
in the advantage of any change of whatever nature 
it may be. Should I speak of the nobles, the prin- 
cesses, who have been lauded for their attractions, 



382 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section in. j cou [& no t \i l^ them up as intellectually and 
morally in advance of the others. If they have 
any superiority — any value above their fellows, it 
is that which dress and foreign ornament may 
bestow — which a knowledge of power may add to 
expression, and society may give to carriage ; — it 
is in physical and circumstantial w r orth and not 
mental and moral eminence. 

Another In another village to which I made an excursion, 

Village. , 

I found some expedient innovations in the prevalent 
style of architecture. In some instances glass win- 
dows were made use of, and though very small, 
often looking on the street. Several of the houses 
were well built of wood without the auxilary of 
mud, and had chimnies. All the buildings, how- 
ever, like those of the other town, were of one 
story, except in a single instance, and that had a 
staircase outside, leading to a little balcony at the 
back, where the door opened, and overlooked only 
the court. The plan, however, of having all one's 
property hemming in a hollow square had not been 
abandoned, and we found the place generally occu- 
pied with those objects appertaining to agricultural, 
domestic, and to some extent martial life. 

The news of the general's arrival created the 
greatest excitement throughout the town; but as 
he had come without any strong body guard, it 
showed his confidence in their good faith, and his 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 383 

peaceable intentions towards them. We had hardly Section m 
dismounted, however, before not less than two hun- 
dred armed men and boys were seen crowding 
the street we were in. They had not thus on our 
account, come with their weapons, for they are ne- 
ver without them ; but they were unmistakably a 
formidable and ready band, and one that could 
not easily be set at defiance. The expression on 
the face, and the manner of each, was that of def- 
ference, mingled with curiosity, restrained by sur- 
prise ; and, as we entered one of the yards, a num- 
ber followed us but kept at a respectful distance. 

We found here another patriarchal looking fel- 
low, surrounded by his sons and grandsons, some 
of whom were occupied about a cart, while one of 
the youngest was leading into a neighboring door a 
small but fat little sheep, apparently a pet. The 
women inhabited a small house with one room, si- 
tuated at the south-west corner of the court, the 
gate being at the north-east ; and as the old man, 
and probably his sons occcupied the building ad- 
joining the entrance, he gave us, without any hesi- 
tation, permission to examine its interior. We 
found a fire in the centre of the room, and over it 
a hook for suspending pots. On one side was a 
wooden seat without mats or cushions, over it a 
shelf on which were some wooden bowls, and be- 
hind the door two sheep fastened to a trough. On j 
our return to the yard, two girls made their appear- 



384 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section in. ance a ^ ^ e p en window, and might be called beau- 
tiful — too beautiful at least for such a habitation. 
One had very glossy brown hair, brilliant complex- 
ion, and most animated expression, and was of just 
the form that would command a high price at Con- 
stantinople. 
Circas- On our arriving again at the street we found it 

sian Vil- 
lage, quite crowded, and in its centre, opposite the gate, 

twelve venerable and very respectable looking men, 
who kneeled down and bowed reverendly to the 
governor. One of them then came forward and 
presented a petition which was kindly received ; 
and while the general was engaged in that affair 
we followed a young man of prepossessing appear- 
ance who came and invited us to his house. He 
introduced us at once to his mother, a princess, 
whom we found seated on a broad divan covered 
with mats and cushions. She arose, beckoned us 
to the seat, and then passed to the opposite side to 
a large brick fire-place — a kind of oven — where 
a pot of food was cooking. She ladled out some, 
which the son brought in wooden bowls, and it 
proved to be very palatable. The room was as 
dark as the others I had visited, and in almost 
every respect like those already described. Op- 
posite was the apartment of the unmarried sis- 
ters to which we next went, and which the brother 
would not enter. Here, too, the obscurity was 
such that had the young women been beautiful we 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

should have hardly discovered it; but we recognised 5 * ™* m 
more than usual richness in costume, neat round 
forms erect and graceful, and deference which for- 
bade their being seated hi our presence. I looked 
for luxuries and even comforts, but it was in vain, 
and I ceased to wonder at their early and late aspi- 
rations to be transplanted to some mansion, how- 
ever humble, in the great Stamboul — be a pur- 
chased wife of any merchant in Constantinople who 
had money enough to buy them. 

On retiring from the town the inhabitants lined 
each side of the way saluting most respectfully 
the general ; and of their number, I think at least 
one hundred were as finely proportioned men as 
the world can anywhere exhibit. 

In my second day's rambles I bought a pair of Ladies' 

Slippers. 

lady's slippers such as are worn by the natives, and 
one of their caps. The former are of green leather, 
have pointed toes slightly turned up, and small 
high heels ; and being made only to thrust a part 
of the foot in, they are very easily removed. This 
is of consequence, since they are left on the floor as 
often as the wearer wishes to gather her feet under 
her on the divan. In this custom the Hindoo 
women have a pleasing advantage over those I have 
seen in this country ; — they ornament with rings 
their ankles and toes which they display as the}' do 
their hands, keeping them as delicately neat. 
24 



SECTION IY. 



section iv - On returning to Larze, we were detained on ao 
Another count of the expected arrival of a distinguished ge- 

Mountain , .. „ _ . 

Trip, neral and want of a wagon, lo improve our time 
we engaged an Ocetian to take us to some more 
native villages. We coursed along the base of the 
mountains for several miles, then entered a narrow 
gorge, and by a bridle path overhung by rocks and 
trees, began a rather difficult ascent. Within half 
an hour we reached a large plateau that had evi- 
dently been well cultivated. On one side, near the 
edge of a ravine, were several small buildings, of 
the style I have heretofore described. A horse with 
an odd-looking saddle with short stirrups was tied 
to a tree in the neighborhood of one of the chau- 
mine at which we dismounted. A tall young man 
issued from the low doorway, and by his gun 
swung to his back, his sword, cama and pistols at 
his belt, it was evident he had just dismounted or 
was about to start on some expedition. He looked 
on us coldly at first, and with suspicion, but as soon 
as the simple object of our visit was made known 
to him, and who we were, he grasped us warmly 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 387 

by the hand, hurried us into his guest-house, and s :CTI0N " IT 
began with apologies, and preparations to give us 
something to eat. We declined accepting of any- 
thing, but offered to be his companions if he was 
going into the interior. This seemed quite agree- 
able to him, and our horses were soon winding 
away with us among the wilds I have heretofore 
attempted to describe. 

After about an hour's slow progress, we were 
joined by a third mountaineer, who descended on 
our path from the heights on the left ; and soon 
after, reaching a clear spot on the ridge that com- 
manded a view of a hundred snow-capped peaks 
and their valleys, we began to descend. We were 
but a few moments hi reaching another cluster of 
dwellings, more strongly built and larger than the 
last mentioned, but varying little in their interior 
arrangements. To our grateful surprise, we saw 
by the number of horses tied to the trees in the 
neighborhood, that there was a gathering of the 
people for some important purpose, and before we 
could dismount, many were the armed men that 
had gathered around us, taxing to the utmost our 
admiration by their high, martial bearing. Had we 
arrived a little sooner, we might have been intru- 
sive ; but the council had already broken up, and 
in a little while hardly a horse or native was to be 
seen. It is possible they might have withdrawn to 
24* 



>83 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

skctiox iv. another S p t 5 under some other tree, as is their cus- 
tom when suspected visitors are near ; but our host 
and his family remained, to extend to us that spe- 
cies of hospitality for which they are remarkable. 

Seated on a low, mat-covered, cushioned divan of 
the ever open guest-house, we were made to eat of 
dozens of dishes, brought to us by the proprietor 
and his retainers, and which consisted principally 
of boiled meats, curds, honey, and millet-cakes. 

The information we obtained with regard to the 
gathering was not satisfactory, though we were 
told it was on account of some misdemeanor among 
them by one of a neighboring tribe, for which it 
was responsible; but as there had for some time 
been a talk among the Russians about seeking out 
and assaulting the famed Shamyl in his fortified 
retreat, we were of opinion it had some reference 
to that. Our host was sufficiently shrewd not to 
give us any clue to their proceedings, but won, in 
an artful manner, all the information he could con- 
cerning the real object of our mission, of the pre- 
sent designs of the Russians, &c. 

Hours rolled speedily away in talking, eating, 
and drinking, and by evening we found the guest- 
house full of people, who had now come to look 
on us and learn the import of our visit, to convey 
it to their homes, and spread it abroad over the 
country. Our host seemed now proud of his guests, 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 389 

, and as I had shown to him my letter from the Secti °" ly - 
viceroy, bearing his great seal, he informed his 
listeners that we were important commissioners 
from foreign powers. He took much pleasure in 
showing to us his weapons, and particularly his 
sword, which seemed a real Damascus, it was so 
flexible. It was thin, yet it could sever a stout 
limb. The handles of the famed Caucasian blades 
have no guards to them, so they sink nearly out of 
sight into the scabbards, which are made very long; 
and though there appears no particular advantage 
in this, and looks inelegant, the officers of the in- 
vading army have nearly all adopted them.' Here 
too was shown to us a chain coat of mail, the only 
one I had seen in the country, except at the man- 
sion of the governor, who has on the walls of one 
of his apartments, a collection of arms used by the 
various tribes of these mountains. 

The next day, in the neighborhood of Larze, we In 3ovc 

•gain 

made the acquaintance of a young woman we met 

driving home a cow. The elegant manners and ad- 
dress of my companion seemed almost instantly to 
have won her admiration, and before leaving her we 
obtained permission to spend the evening in her 
apartments, her liege lord being absent on some ex- 
pedition. Abroad she had not a very attractive 
appearance, being much muffled up; but when at 
her home we found that she possessed one of those 



390 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section iv. e i e g an t ? queenly forms, in which Nature sometimes 
seems to take especial pains to develop her re- 
sources of infatuation. She had donned her best 
garb, and it was pretty. She was as timidly retir- 
ing as gracefully confiding, and was evidently en- 
dowed with a mind infinitely superior to her station. 
In that humble dwelling, almost the only neat and 
comfortable one I had seen in the country, I separ- 
ated from my companion, and I did not see him 
again till after midnight. 

A Meet- Between Kobee and Kiataoor, we passed a car- 
riage in which were two Russian ladies and an 
officer from St. Petersburg on their way to Tiflis. 
They appeared overjoyed to meet us, and desired 
our company over the mountains ; for, though they 
had had weeks of dreary arduous travelling, they 
very rightly considered that they had now the most 
difficult and dangerous portion of their journey to 
surmount. They were much encouraged by our 
assuring them that we had passed there a few days 
previous ; for they looked on what they were now 
commencing, as a fearful and desperate affair. We 
promised to accompany them, intended and desired 
to do so ; but finding their progress so slow, that it 
was increasing our own peril by delaying us in the 
mountains, we with much regret took our leave of 
them. They did not reach here until two days af- 
ter ourselves. 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 391 

We intended to have left Larze early, but it was S£CTIoy Y 
eight o'clock before we obtained a sledge, and then 
it had hardly began to be day ; for the depths of 
these gorges are so immense and narrow, that the 
sun does not reach them, and in many places at 
midday the inhabitants are blessed with only twi- 
light. When once started, our speed was very ra- 
pid till we reached Kobee, and began to ascend its 
precipitous barriers. At four p. m., we had climbed 
to Kaitaoor, and dismounted to await the morrow ; 
but having a little time to spare before dark, we 
waded through deep snow to a stone dwelling on 
the brow of the aouaz to the eastward, and far above 
us. We were welcomed by a middle aged man, who 
had just been bringing from the heights some hay 
for his cattle, now resting in a neighboring shed. 
The grass had been cut and stacked up in conical 
form, waiting the coming of the snow, when it would 
be easily transported. The method of getting it, 
however, was rather primitive, now when wanted for 
use. A long limb of a tree was cut, and one end 
and one side of it were trimmed. On the branches 
of the other end was piled the stack of hay, to 
which it served as a sledge, and was thus drawn 
down the mountain. 

Talking of the life and manners of the people, Customs. 
we passed the evening, and on an unblanketed di- 
van, a cold and chilly night. The master left us 



392 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

sscTum iv. ear i Vj doubtless to pay a visit to his wife, which 
custom does not permit of their doing when they 
could be seen ; and it reminded me of what Capt. 
Matoosky told me concerning this delicate habit. 
A Circassian is aware that if he has done a person 
a wrong, that person, a relative, or one of the clan, 
are bound to revenge it. The night time is often 
sought for this purpose, and usually when the of- 
fender crosses to his wife's apartment. Knowing 
this, he takes the precaution before making his 
egress, to thrust out of his or her door, his cap 
stuck on the end of a cane, so that if any one is to 
fire, it will most probably be at the supposed head 
in the paougho which thus escapes. 

Another The descent to Pasanoor, where we were to spend 

l^'escent 

another night, was so precipitous that huge log- 
chains were passed under the runners of the sledge 
to make their sliding less rapid. The horses, too, 
which were of immense size, and kept especially 
for this mountain labor, would so bring their feet 
together and brace them, that they would slide 
down for great distances. Coming to places a little 
less steep, they would walk perhaps a few paces, 
then again fix their feet, and all slide together till 
again at some spot where they could step. Thus 
for miles, it was to them but a labor of holding 
back, and so balancing themselves that they should 
not stumble. 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 393 



Snow was falling when we left Pasanoor, but 



Section IV 



the roads thence were extremely good, and our Return to 

, r- n . Tiflis - 

horses upon the lull run swept over it, and mount- 
ains, hills, valleys, rocks, ruins, villages and plains 
passed us like shadow of clouds, and in the evening 
we were landed safely at this our starting point, 
Tiflis. 

I must, however, turn back to a scene which now 
comes up vividly before me. It was near the pretty 
village Dushet. As we were descending a moun- 
tain, far up along the edge of a ravine, five well 
armed Circassian horsemen were seen wending their 
way to their cloud-girt homes. In a gorge below, 
a large company of Cossacks had halted around a 
train of wagons that were being escorted to a neigh- 
boring fortress ; while on the opposite hill-side — a 
vast surface of unspotted snow — a hundred camels, 
with their drivers mounted almost at a giddy 
height on the merchandise, were descending into 
the valley, to cross its dreary waste, climb again the 
misty and chilly elevations for which nature had 
not fitted them, and again descend into the atte 
of Cabarda — to the Tartar steppes, to make glad 
by their treasures of silks, shawls, and carpets of 
the sunny south, the fair daughters of the frozen 
north. 

31st. Much snow having fallen during our ab- Georgi- 

° , ans. 

sence, the Georgian belles were out to-day sleigh- 



394 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 



ection iv. r idi n g # Their eyes were like stars shining through 
beds of roses ; their skin was as white as the sur- 
face they glided over, and they were as merry as the 
merry bells that jingle before them. 

Designs Over head and ears in trouble about starting to- 
frustrated. 

morrow with a caravan lor Persia. My saddlebags 

and I are ready in an instant for any part of cre- 
ation, but I cannot yet persuade my new but loved 
companion to go with me. We cannot delay the 
others, it is too quick for him ; la Send r a R. is us- 
ing her influence to make us stay. I fear at least 
he will not go, and to travel yet hundreds of miles 
into the interior without an interpreter, would be 
profitless. But the idea of not going to the Per- 
sian capital determines me almost to hazard the 
dangers alone ; while report says the passes are 
blocked with snow, and the prince, with whom I 
again dined this evening, and of whom and his 
amiable lady I took final leave, tells me the road 
is barren, tedious, and uninteresting ; yet I would 
like, even at great risks, to go to Trebizonde by 
that route. 
Mission- An officer whom I met at the palace, and talked 
with concerning my visit to Teheran, has recently 
returned from Oroomiah. It was most gratifying 
to listen to the flattering terms in which he menti- 
oned our worthy missionaries stationed there. He 
spoke of Messrs. Perkins, Wright, Stocking, and 



anes. 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 395 

Stoddard — that in the great work they had under- SECTIoy IV - 
taken, they had about a dozen native assistants, had 
two seminaries in which there were some sixty or 
eighty scholars. 

The prince informed me of a new and singular ^^ ev 

° Discovery 

discovery just made in America, by Drs. Morton 
and Jackson, which, next to Mr. Morse's magnetic 
telegraph, he deemed the most wonderful of the 
age. It is, the peculiar power of iEther, and he will 
at once, he says, order it to be used and experi- 
mented with in his hospitals. America seems in- 
deed to be lifting herself up before the world, a 
splendid luminary. 

January 15th. Ivanhoe would not accompany 
me into Persia. I could not blame him. I would 
have remained in Tiflis if I had been he, for there 
were gentle influences about him which no gentle- 
man of honor could reject. He however accom- 
panied me a few miles out of town, and when he 
took leave, he threw his arms around my neck and 
wept like a child. I believe two brothers could 
have parted with less deep feelings of regret. 

I abandoned, with the most profound sorrow, A New 

Guide. 

the route I had laid out, and finally determined 
to visit Pontus, either through or along the coast 
of Colchis. I was fortunate in immediately ob- 
taining a guide, a Circassian trader, who with his 
sister, was bound ostensibly to Cutais, but in re- 



396 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section* iv. a ^y £ gtamboul, to dispose of his companion in 
that profitable market. He spoke fifteen languages, 
according to his own account, and at least under- 
stood enough of Italian and French to answer my 
purpose. A little man with short legs, a big head 
and kalpak on it, he was altogether a funny look- 
ing personage ; but, as I had agreed to pay all the 
expenses of the journey for his services, he made 
himself very useful, changed the baggage, got the 
semivar for tea, hurried up the postilions, &c. &c. 

On the morning of my departure, Baron Ni- 
colaif with that kindness which so distinguishes 
him, came to the hotel to take leave of me, and 
presenting the compliments of Prince "WoronsofF, 
stated that his highness desired a copy of my jour- 
nal if I should publish it. "Would that I could 
make it worthy of being perused by so noble a 
man ! 

In the suburbs of the town we took in our 
mufned-up companion, and proceeded rapidly one 
post and then stopped to pass the night. The next 
day we reached Gori, which now, with its fortress, 
its indented walls, rising one above the other, had 
a most picturesque and decidedly pleasing appear- 
ance. Immediately after leaving there, we had to 
pass through a broad swift stream, and on attempt- 
ing to ascend its steep bank, the horses slipped and 
fell — one so far into the water that before he 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 379 

could be freed from his harness, was drowned. S£CTI0N IV - 
Gagarepsky was our next stopping place, then 
Suram, where we had a real Jehu for a driver, who 
took us into the mountains at a furious pace. There 
finding the road too narrow for our three horses 
abreast, he put one of them on as a leader, and 
mounted on it an old Imeretian whom he met. In 
that style he dashed on, the old man hardly able to 
keep his seat, and at evening arrived at a neat little 
place called Molit. 

In my companion I missed all that enthusiasm 
and sympathy which so attached me to Ivanhoe. 
Through grand scenes and by quiet nooks and 
glades, where a poet might live for ever on nothing, 
he passed silently ; but when he saw a pheasant or 
any other nice bird, he would smack his lips, and 
say : — "If we had that for supper, we should 
sleep soundly ;" and when we came to the pretty 
Quarilla, he said : " the fish in that stream are very 
sweet." With his fair jeune ange I could hold no 
conversation, though she often expressed a curi- 
osity in the motives of my journey, while I ten- 
dered to her all those civilities circumstances per- 
mitted. 

The people here carry on their backs from half a Domestic 
kitten up to a whole cat, and a family going to 
market look as though they transported all their 
domestic animals. In hogskins men carry their 



398 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section iv. wme? anc [ { n smaller ones, cheese, fruit, &c., while 
the women, in cat skins swung over their shoulders, 
carry their knitting, bobbins, thread, and such ar- 
ticles as the economy of a journey suggests to 
them. 

At Molit I was saved a very serious difficulty 
with a brute of a man, by the kind and courteous 
interference of a Georgian gentleman, General Mee- 
sandarow, who happened there on his way to Tiflis. 
The former attempted to exclude us from a room 
in which there was a lire, claiming it by pre-ocupa- 
tion ; and as loud words and threatening gestures 
caused the seizing of arms, the result would doubt- 
less have been fatal to one of us, had the Georgian 
not arrived and invited us to his own room, where 
the disagreeable affair was almost forgotten in his 
many attentions. 

A strange The next day we proceeded as far as Simonette. 
Between Molit and Bellegore, the scenery is sur- 
passing lovely, being by the banks of a stream be- 
fore mentioned, but which my companions now 
called Kluporcla. Sitting on the stones of it were 
many very little black birds, with a white spot on 
the breast. They often plunged into the water, as 
swiftly and noiselessly as an arrow cleaves the air. 
They were probably after fish which must have 
been diminitive indeed to serve them for food. 
Just before reaching Simonette, we passed a man 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 399 



Section IV. 



on foot and a lady on horseback, and had I not 
often mentioned the beauty of this people I should New 

Beauties. 

attempt to describe these ; for, in native elegance of 
form and features they rivalled all I had yet seen. 
The man was in poor garb, (though this does not 
here always bespeak poverty,) and came to arrange 
our harness which was out of order ; the lady was 
well dressed and well mounted. 

The following day, Russian Christmas — the Rus- Russian 

Christ- 

sian 25th December, corresponding to our 7th of mas. 
of January — we reached Cutais; the last part of 
our journey being over a road so deep with mud 
that our horses could hardly wade through it. But 
here new difficulties beset me. The authorities 
would not let my companion proceed further with- 
out a different passport, as something wrong was 
discovered in the one he had. I remained a day, 
using innumerable means to induce the Governor 
to permit them to accompany me. All was unavail- 
ing. I was in reality to be separated from my two 
friends, and was to abandon the route through 
Ahalzic, which we had intended to take. But how 
I was to proceed without speaking a word of the 
languages of the countries I was to pass through, 
arose formidably before me. If I could reach Mari- 
ne, the governor, whom I knew, would get a boat to 
take me Redout-kale. The roads were too bad for 
horses, so my guide, while his gentle sister wept at 



400 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

suction iv. j^ ga( j fafe^ busied himself in getting me a couple 

of camels and a driver to take me to M., and told 

him to inform the governor of my desire to reach 

Redout-kale as soon as possible. 

A Camel Mounted on one of the ships of the desert whose 
Ride. m r 

long rolling step was not only fatiguing, but made 

me dizzy, I started next morning on a dreary journey. 
A few words of Russian which I had picked up I 
used as often as I found opportunity. Sometimes 
I called pas toy, when I wanted him to stop ; but 
generally found myself exclaiming currashb cur- 
rashb when we proceeded rapidly. Extremely weary 
I reached Marane, and hastened at once to the 
governor. My driver telling him my wishes, he 
accompanied me to the river side to obtain a boat, 
but none could be had. Then followed explana- 
tions by signs ; but, lest I might not understand 
him, he sent for the fac totum of the village, who 
was supposed to know every thing ; but there was 
no one who spoke any language I knew any thing 
about. 
Another I spent the following day in the family of the 

Lady. . .11 -p • 

governor, he going occasionally to see it it were 
possible to hire a kayuka. The lady of the house 
was a native of the country, tall and handsome; 
her children, too, were very pretty. I took a 
sketch of her. The way she tried to inform me of 
her being an Imeritian was, by pointing out a 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 401 

town on a large Russian map I had, and then SECTI0y IY 
placing her hand on herself. She had nothing to 
do with preparing an excellent dinner that was 
served, but she sat at table with us and helped us 
to eat it. 

On the succeeding morning I took leave of the A Captive 

perhaps. 

pleasant family of the governor — he having ob- 
tained a kayuJca for ten silver rubles to take me to 
the Euxine, — and with two rude natives I was 
again afloat on the Phasis. Soon after leaving 
Marane, we stopped under a high bank of mud, 
which one of my men ascended to reach a hut that 
stood there in the edge of the primeval forest. In a 
few moments he returned, accompanied by a young 
gentlewoman, whose appearance was in touching 
contrast with the wilderness around her. On her 
head was a red wrought cap ; about her white 
shoulders hung the long neat braids of hair ; her 
crimson jacket hugged her round form as if in love 
with it ; her skirts were of dark silk ; her panta- 
loons of red silk, bordered with gold braid. Rude, 
rough men, contending with wild wolves and sa- 
vage monsters, would have harmonized well with 
this desert scene ; but when I saw this brilliant 
creature descending to the dirty shore, with white 
unsandled feet, my heart beat with strange em 
tions, and I could but half divest myself of a con- 
viction that she was some captive, stolen from the 
25 



402 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section iv. a i tar ^ tne "bridal hour, and now called on me to 
rescue her from barbarous hands. 

Late in the evening we stopped at a hut in an 
enclosure, where there were several other buildings. 
Ours was the guest-house, but one corner was oc- 
cupied by a cow, another by a hog and litter of 
pigs. On the opposite side of the yard was a 
wicker-work house — one room — in which the fa- 
mily resided. We went there to get some fire and 
found an old and young woman indifferently clad, 
and two pretty children well dressed, all sitting on 
mats on the earth floor. We returned and made 
tea, then laid down on some straw between the 
cow and the pigs. 

A Festa. At 2 p. m. on the following day, my men again 
stopped, and refused to proceed further, pretending 
by signs and a negative currashb, that the weather 
would not permit of it. I had no objections to 
going among the natives, but I did not like the 
liberty they took with my time. The real object, 
however, of their coming here I soon ascertained. 
There was a gathering of the people a few miles 
distant, at the house of a nobleman, and they were 
determined to enjoy it. They beckoned me to ac- 
company them, and I did so unhesitatingly, never 
for an instant allowing them to think that I enter- 
tained the slightest fear of them ; in fact I seldom 
felt any, though I did not at any time leave 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 403 

myself without means of defence, having always SECTI °* ly 
buckeled around me, during night and day, a 
revolving pistol and a two edged cama. 

After travelling an hour through fields and woods 
we came to a large wooden house, about which 
were gathered at least an hundred persons. Some 
were riding furiously about, others were throwing 
large pieces of wood ; some were drinking wine, of 
which there was abundance, and the rest were eat- 
ing; for, several whole sheep and innumerable 
fowls had been roasted, and as much millet-cake 
cooked as sufficed to accompany the meats. If I 
had been a prince I could not have been better re- 
ceived than I was by the noble owner of the dis- 
trict. He was most affable in manners, and was 
handsomely dressed in a velvet frock trimmed with 
fur. I, however, needed an interpreter, for though 
a thousand questions arose in my mind, they re- 
mained unspoken and unanswered. At night some 
skins were spread on the divan, and good cushions, 
and over my head where I slept was nailed an 
enormous elk-horn, having six splendid branches. 

After another feast early next morning, we re- 
turned to the shore, but my men refused to pro- 
ceed, saying that the weather was not currashb, 
and the boat was not currashb, They then began 
to talk about my going horseback ; and using the 
Eussian word for horse, and then the Circassian 
25* 



404 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section iv. ( Qfcj anc [ connecting it with Redout-kale, they 
made rne understand their wishes. I immediately 
exclaimed that that was cur r as ho, which quite dis- 
concerted them; for I now saw that their design 
was to extort more money from me, as they occa- 
sionally hinted that the rouble was currashb. They 
then went away, I supposed for horses, but after 
awhile returned, and said the boat was ready. We 
went nicely down the stream for some miles, when 
they again suddenly drew to the shore, got out and 
went away. I remained for a long time alone, and 
when my patience was exhausted, I too, ascended 
the bank, and, seeing a few huts in the distance, 
proceeded at once to the nearest, where I found my 
men comfortably smoking their pipes. A young 
and rather feeble woman, poorly and scantily clad, 
and a little girl of about ten years of age, seated on 
low stools by a fire on the floor were the other 
occupants. 

a lovely I noticed that the child's clothes had once been 
Child. . 

pretty, though now m rags — that her complexion, 

features, eyes, the roundness of her limbs would, in 

a few years, make her almost priceless at the great 

Eastern market, which I am sure is her destination. 

But in this change, as I have before said, there will 

be no cruelty ; she will go voluntarily, and will 

thus become a blessing to her poor parents. This 

is common. Mr. Mar told me of two of his own 






TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 405 

acquaintances, living near to him in this very Section iv - 
neighborhood, who recently went of their own 
accord to Stamboul to sell themselves. They were 
poor, he said, but beautiful, and would do well. 

I sat down awhile with the rest, but I was too 
angry to remain long quiet, and after feeling sure 
that they intended to proceed no further, I called 
them to the outside of the house, and with all the 
energy I could command, ordered them to the 
kaynka. They saw that I was now prepared to 
act, and they moved sullenly on board. 

At 4 p. m., we reached the mouth of a canal, New ^J f - 

ficulties. 

which connects the Phasis with a small stream that 
enters the Khope. Through this they intended to 
pass, but found it quite full of mud. Most oppor- 
tunely, a Circassian dashing along the edge of the 
forest drew up his rein to see who we were, and 
my men began bargaining for his horse. I prof- 
fered a silver ruble, and he soon dismounted and 
assisted me to his saddle, then led the way on foot, 
my two knaves following him, myself bringing up 
the rear. I had no idea of the distance I had to 
travel, nor what was to be endured, but proceeded, 
most cheerfully expecting to reach Redout-kale that 
evening. The country we passed through was low 
and damp, and covered with thick woods and jun- 
gle. Rabbits often started from neighboring thick- 
ets, and wild birds from the rivulet, along which 



406 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section iv. our -p^fo i av# a^ f ew m iles brought us to a deep 
narrow stream, which we were enabled to cross on 
logs, though my horse, after saddle and saddle- 
bags were removed, was made to swim it. It 
was now beginning to be dark, and yet another, 
broader, deeper stream was to be passed. This I 
was either to swim with my companions or on 
horseback. I preferred the latter, and though it 
was a swift, dismal looking rolling mass, I plunged 
my noble animal in, and in a few moments he was 
on the opposite bank. I had hoped my saddle-bags 
would have floated, but they filled with water, my 
boots too, and I was thoroughly wet ; but my dis- 
comforts had but just commenced. We w T ere now 
in a dense pathless swamp, entirely covered with 
water, and for miles so muddy that the horse sank at 
each step almost to his saddle girt. My companions 
picked their way as best they could, and left me to 
do likewise ; and as it was now too dark to distin- 
guish objects at any considerable distance, I only 
kept trace of the course they were pursuing by 
hallooing to them, and getting a frequent response. 
Sometimes my horse seemed almost discouraged at 
the difficulties and horrors of the way : while 
avoiding trunks of trees, and thorn- vines, and rag- 
ged branches, he went into deep holes, and some- 
times got more and more involved the further he 
proceeded. Overtaken by night in that boggy, 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 407 

gloomy forest, with dangers on every hand, I passed S£CTI °* IV - 
a few hours, that for real discomfort, mental and 
physical, I had hardly met the like. It was near 
midnight when we emerged from the " dismal 
swamp," and reached a poor farm-house, where I 
hoped, yet unavailingly, that all my sufferings had 
ended. Our knock at the door was answered, 
but no admittance gained. We were, however, al- 
lowed the little guest-house, or more properly sta- 
ble, for ourselves and horse. To that we repaired, 
built a fire, and I began drying my clothes. In 
the mean time I ate supper, and then laid down on 
the ground by my horse to sleep. 

On the following morning, after about three 
hours' ride, I arrived here at Redout-kale, and was 
received with the utmost kindness by the Greek 
gentleman, Mazane. For three days I have had a 
good divan to rest on; and a friend of M.'s, who 
acts as my interpreter, has spent much of his time 
with me. Don Carlos Grusini, a German by birth, 
has most generously offered to me a passage to Tre- 
bizonde, in a Turkish boat he is loading. Have 
had several pleasant excursions on the river, and 
been to a soiree at the house of the native governor, 
(who expressed himself very grateful that I had 
come so far to see his country,) where were enjoyed 
all that is fascinating in the Georgian, Circassian, 
and Mingrelian dances, and afterwards all that is 



408 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

seotios iv. pi easan t in a good supper, prepared by fair hands 
for a gay occasion. 

To-day I have made a new acquaintance, Mr. H. 
Mayor, an Italian, of the house of Mayor f teres de 
Trieste, a most agreeable young man, and who, 
with great kindness, invites me to accompany him 
in a Turkish boat (a sandale) he has chartered for 
Trebizonde. I have accepted his offer, as he starts 
to-morrow, and have bought provisions for a two 
week's voyage. 

Here, before leaving the country, I desire to ga- 
ther together numerous scattered notes I have made 
at various stages of my journey, and such as I have 
availed myself of in the works of others to which, 
in a proper place, I will acknowledge my indebt- 
edness ; but the limit I had set to my task must be 
more than passed, and warns me to be brief, even 
though on that which is most interesting. 

The region of the Caucasus is occupied by seven- 
teen different tribes, which are divided into upwards 
of one hundred and twenty communities, or clans. 
The Tcherkess,* from which the country derives 
its name, occupy the north-western portion of the 
Caucasian range, and are divided into fifteen differ- 
ent clans. The Abadza, of eleven tribes, lies south- 
east of the former, and between the Adeuge on the 

* Tcherkess is a Tartar word, and means a highwayman. 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 409 

north and Abhazia on the south. The latter, like Section iv 
Cherkess, is on the Euxine, and is divided into five 
clans. On its south-east are Mingrelia and Guria, 
which finish the tribes on the Black Sea. The 
Cbanetey, of four clans, lies east of Abhazia, and 
between Mingrelia and Kabarda. The latter, of 
four clans, also inhabit the northern slopes, border- 
ing the steppes, which give streams to both the 
Kouban and to the Terek, one of which enters the 
Euxine, the other the Caspian. 

Ocetia, composed of seventeen clans, lies be- 
tween Kabarda, on the north, and Kartadenia, (of 
which Gori is the capital,) and Imeretia, (of which 
Kutais is the capital,) on its south and south-west. 
North-east of Ocetia, is Chechentsy, of thirteen 
clans. On its south-east are the fierce and for- 
midable Letzghiny, composed of thirty-six clans, 
reaching the Caspian. Kahetia, on its south-west, 
has two clans. Of Kubinckarnro, running a great 
distance along the Caspian, little is known. Dur- 
bent and Kuba, the principal military posts of the 
Russians, in that region, have much to do in keep- 
ing them in subjection. 

The religion of most of the tribes is now Maho- 
metanism, though not in its full extent, and in 
many places so engrafted with Paganism that hardly 
the one or the other are recognized. " The reli- 
gious groves, or Kodosh, as they call them arc," 



/ 



410 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section iv. ga y g Longworth, " still objects of a veneration far 
more real and sincere than the mosques, and the 
festivals still solemnised in them draw much greater 
multitudes than the Namaz. Islamism, counten- 
anced and practiced by the chiefs and the effendis, 
is respected; but Paganism, from its associations 
with theirs customs, habits and feelings, is much 
more popular. At least this is the case as regards 
these two provinces, (Shapsook and Natukvitch,) 
and the sea coast, where, not forty years ago, the 
whole population were idolators, and have only re- 
cently been converted by Turkish missionaries." 
The priests are not paid, but exercise their calling 
in virtue of superior learning. Near the Caspian, 
there are some tribes who worship the sun, others 
the woods and rocks. 

There being among them no written laws, the 
style of government depends much on their religion. 
Sometimes the priests have sway — sometimes the 
Pshees (princes,) and effendis (judges ;) but usu- 
ally all their affairs are regulated in council ; the 
most venerable and most distinguished in arms tak- 
ing the lead. If his opinions are sound, and are ap- 
proved of by the assembly, (for all the tribes being 
independent, none can be compelled to act contrary 
to their will,) composed either of the tribes or their 
representatives, they are the law. When an expe- 
dition is to be undertaken for instance, some known 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 411 

convenient valley or hill top is named as a place of S£Cnoy IV - 
meeting. Word is then sent abroad from tribe to 
tribe, and on the appointed day they gather by 
thousands, from all quarters, all well armed — the 
old for advice, the young for action. Under some 
huge tree the nobles and chiefs are seated, and the 
subject is discussed and debated at length as in our 
own assemblies. If the majority deem the expedi- 
tion inexpedient, the assembly breaks up, and all 
return home ; if to the contrary, there is usually 
some distinguished warrior among them who is 
deemed worthy of leading them, and they may, on 
the moment, start to surprise an enemy in his 
camp, intercept him where he least expects it — 
descending upon him like an eagle on his prey. 

The authority of the Pshees was once paramount, 
and is now so in some districts, north and south of 
the Caucasus, where the character of the people 
partakes of the mildness of the country. The bear- 
ing of these princes is as chivalric, their bravery as 
unquestioned, and their generosity as prominent as 
those that have characterised any age without, per- 
haps, its refinement and effeminacy. But in the 
very construction of minds, nurtured in any portion 
of these hundreds of leagues of wilds, no one's au- 
thority could have permanency over them, unless 
Nature had stamped him with nobility. A partial 
consequent of the designs of ambitious Pshees and 



412 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section iv. ouz( j[ ens (nobles,) was the construction of an insti- 
tution peculiar to this people, though partaking in 
one feature of Hindoo castes. 
Of Mar- Families of a neighborhood associated together 
for mutual protection, and bound themselves by 
oath to certain agreements. They thus became as 
of one household ; " and, to strengthen the illusion 
of their being such," says Longworth, " their fami- 
lies are not allowed to intermarry ; a regulation so 
rigidly observed, that where the society is composed 
of many thousands as at Natquo, it still holds good, 
and a marriage between two individuals of it is 
looked upon as incestuous. In conformity with 
this idea, the married women, who, since the intro- 
duction of Islamism, have assumed the veil, do not 
hesitate to uncover themselves before any man of 
their own tribe, though frequently from residing in 
a different portion of the country he may be a total 
stranger to them." 
Punish- A great evil, however, one that has for so long a 
Crimes, time nursed the dissensions of the different clans, 
still exists in their maintainance of the spirit of re- 
taliation. If a person be slain, his brother members 
must obtain redress ; every individual of the offend- 
er's tribe being responsible for the act, and hostility 
ensues until satisfaction is rendered. For the mur- 
der of a man two hundred oxen are to be paid, and 
for a woman one hundred ; though in this latter 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 413 

fine they do not manifest the gallantry for which Sectiox iv - 
they are proverbial, and show too low an estimate 
of invaluable mothers and the fair indispensable 
garnerers of our affections. Less able too, to de- 
fend themselves, the protection thrown around them 
should be greater ; for this very weakness, gentle- 
ness, dependance, (if acknowledged) of the female 
sex, constitutes its invincible strength. To try a 
criminal, six of each of the litigant parties sit, and 
when their verdict, which must be unanimous, is 
rendered, the compromised society has the right of 
punishing its own delinquent, who is not after all, 
bound to pay the penalty himself. Each member 
of the community contributes to the sum, and it is 
then distributed among their societies. 

There are among the Caucasians many valuable Armour- 
armourers, who manufacture a great portion of the 
weapons worn here, some of which are very beau- 
tifully inlaid with silver. It is stated that their 
swords are not inferior to those of Damascus. I 
saw two in one shop, inlaid, and richly ornamented 
with gold, that were valued at three hundred 
rubles. They were heavy yet bent like a reed. 

The bow, worn by some, is a more formidable 
weapon by far than it appears. The balteus, which 
supports it, is like the described one of Diana, 
enriched with jewels; while the Corj/tos (yo^urfc) 
bow case, is the style of those worn by the armed 



ers. 



414 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section iv. Persians, and represented on the Persepolitan bas- 
reliefs. The bows used by the Tartars are essenti- 
ally different from those of the Circassians, being 
much more curved, but are like those taken from 
Hamilton's fictile vases, used by the Scythians from 
whom the Tartars descended. 

Captain Matoosky admitted that there were many 
fine arms made in the Caucasus, but he said the 
workmen were Gipsies, whom I believe to be of 
the outcast Hindoo. race, and quite ingenious. 

Amazons. Some suppose the Circassian women to be de- 
scendants of the Amazons, who dwelt in this region, 
and like the Tyrian, Thracian, and Spartan virgins, 
bore the pharetra (quiver,) and followed hunting 
and other rude sports. Their present habits, how- 
ever, do not induce one to believe this ; for, though 
they lack education and its powers, and may seem 
to pay too great respect to the physical strength of 
the ruder sex, they perhaps occupy more com- 
pletely the sphere they were designed for, than 
many in more enlightened communities. Industri- 
ous, obedient daughters — fond, devoted wives — 
watchful, careful mothers — domestic to a virtue, 
they receive in secret, affectionate homage from 
their lords and masters ; and at all times a species 
of defference grateful to the admirable and tender 
sensibilities of woman's nature. 

Captain Matoosky said that the Circassian wo- 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 415 



rv. 



men liked Cossack husbands, because they were Secti °* 
allowed more liberty. This, I think, can hardly Freedom 
be true, as here they are really not deprived, except Women. 
in some conditions, of any kind of consistent free- 
dom, though they are considered as property. They 
can generally marry whom they love ; and while 
they are single join in the dance with the male sex, 
towards which, the defference taught, generally 
makes them, says Longworth, " tolerant of freedoms 
not altogether consistent with our notions of pro- 
priety;" and are sometimes so fashionable as to 
elope when the lover is not able or willing to pay the 
price demanded for her by her father or guardian : 
for, besides her intrinsic worth, which may be above 
computation, they, from custom, place a specific 
value on the object they are about to resign. Should 
the fair one be freed by the death of her lawful 
protectors, she becomes the property of her tribe 
who sell her as they please. I knew of one pro- 
cured for an Englishman, for which three hundred 
and twenty-five pieces of cotton cloth were paid, 
valued at six thousand five hundred piastres. 

By their ancient institutions, they were more Customs, 
enslaved ; but now, marrying under the koran, its 
statutes set them free, as a slave by it, also becomes 
free when she becomes a mother. I knew a Circas- 
sian prince who had two lovely wives, though to- 
wards one he was considered merely as her protec- 



416 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

suction iv. ^ Ql ^ g-j^ devolving upon him at the death of his 
brother. In the mountains we are told there are 
thousands of Russian and Polish slaves, deserters 
from the " army of the Caucasus." They are al- 
lowed to marry, in order to increase the property 
of their owners, and are said to be rather licen- 
tious, so much so, that turned up noses are becom- 
ing quite common. The nobles can only marry 
among, or dispose of their children to, those of 
equal rank. There is one pang the mother must 
endure, which calls for our sympathy ; she must 
part with her sons even when they are of tender 
age ; for the father sends them abroad to be 
brought up by others, lest the natural solicitude of 
the gentle one who bore them, should, in their off- 
spring, produce effeminancy — a weakness as much 
despised as it was in the most heroic ages of Greece. 
This induces me to say, there is much here to re- 
mind one of the times of Lycurgus. When a 
Spartan woman was pregnant, pictures of the hand- 
somest young men were hung up in her chamber, 
in order to effect favorably the fruit of her womb. 
The child was delivered on a shield, and then 
bathed with wine to prove if he was worthy of 
being adopted by the State. They were inured to 
every species of hardship, and at seven withdrawn 
from paternal care. Here, however, the numerous 
domestic duties of the women suffice, they believe, 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 417 

to produce the effect which the Spartan females Section iv 
sought, by exercising, half naked, in public. Nor 
do the Caucasians, as did those Greeks, employ 
nurses, in order to preserve the beauty of their 
breasts. The Circassian women are known to wear 
the cestus, which is said by some to be used like the 
zone — the love-inspiring " girdle of Venus" — while Girdle of 
others believe to the contrary. " The scholiast, on 
Statius, says, that the cestus was the name of the 
marriage-girdle, which was given by the newly-mar- 
ried wife to her husband; whence unlawful mar- 
riages were called incestce." The young Grecian 
women wore the zona about their loins, even when 
their tunic was not girt up, and removed it on the 
day of marriage.* McPherson says : — " Sancti- 
fied girdles, till very lately, were kept in many fa- 
milies in the north of Scotland ; they were bound 
about women in labor, and were supposed to alle- 
viate their pains, and to accelerate the birth. They 
were impressed," and in this resemble some to be 
seen among the Circassians, " with several mystical 
figures, and the ceremony of binding them about 
the woman's ivaist was accompanied with words 
and gestures which showed the custom to have come 
originally from the Druids." Bosmina (soft tender 
hand,) youngest of Fingal's children, offers, in be- 

* " The Flora in the Museum at Naples, shows the appearance of 
the girdle as worn by young women." 

26 



418 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

SEcrior it. ] ia if £ ] ier f a ther, a hundred of these, with a hun- 
dred maids, hawks, &c, to the king of Sora, to 
" bind high-bosomed women." Hugh Murray says 
of Circassian women : " The value set upon their 
virtue is marked by the barbarous precaution of a 
broad leathern girdle, fastened at an early age with 
silver clasps,, and which the husband cuts through 
at marriage." As however the protection of their 
virtue is of less importance to them than a beauti- 
ful and voluptuous form, we should not be sur- 
prised if we learn that they pay vastly more atten- 
tion to the latter than to the former. A Turk has 
been known to pay 20,000 piasters for one's ele- 
gant proportions, though four or five thousand is 
the common price of a wife. 

Gallantry. In evidence of the gallantry of the Circassians, 
M. Homaire states, that when at the north of the 
Caucasus, he saw a Russian woman who had re- 
cently been rescued by General Grabe's detachment, 
who fled shortly after his arrival, and returned to 
the mountains. M. de H. had not been in the in- 
terior of the country, yet he had seen many of the 
people, and did not think them very beautiful, but 
exquisitely formed ; and says, " A Circassian wo- 
man is never awkward. Dressed in brocades or in 
rags, she never fails to assume spontaneously the 
most noble and picturesque attitudes." The most 
beautiful one that I saw, was in a costume more 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 419 

Armenian than native. I took a sketch of her, and SECTI0N IV - 
shall have it engraved on my return home. 

Of mental culture, there appears to be none Mental 

1 r # Culture. 

among the females, most of their time being de- 
voted to embroidering, weaving and making gar- 
ments. I did not meet even one, perhaps with an 
exception at TifTis, who could read or write. The 
boys are sometimes taught to read the Koran in 
Arabic, — the priests instructing them in the tem- 
ples. 

The population of the Caucasus, including terri- Popula- 

x L ° tion. 

tory occupied by the subject tribes, is 2,000,000, 
says M. Homaire. And it is not to be wondered at 
that it does not decrease, since many of the " lords 
of creation " have two wives, and some four — en- 
joying, however, separate apartments. 

The extent of their country is small, yet I be- Territory, 
lieve much more vast than the casual reader is apt 
to imagine ; and is of a wildness and ruggedness 
that cannot be conceived of till seen, and when vi- 
sited, cannot fail to arouse a wonder that even after 
a forty years' war, the Russians have been able to 
obtain a foot of the soil. The heights are inacces- 
sible to their cavalry, the deep gorges are impas- 
sable to their artillery. Thus, with the exception 
of two narrow ways, this range of dark and tan- 
gled ravines, and black and frightful cliffs, inhospi- 
table in every aspect, but to those whose homes 
26* 



420 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section iv. ^gy are — having a mean breadth of two hundred 
miles, a length of eight hundred miles, a surface 
of five thousand leagues — remains from its very 
nature, almost literally free to its rude, uncultivated 
tribes. 

Langua- Of languages, there are said to be thirty differ- 

£ es - 

ent ones, and I regret exceedingly that the limits I 

have put to my work prevents my enlarging on 

this as I desire. 

The Circassians proper, (Tcherkess,) of which 
there are 236,000, do not speak the Turkish, but a 
patois, derived principally from the Adeegeh, their 
original language, which no longer exists. The 
priests write for them in Arabic. Their correspon- 
dence is carried on in that language ; and in the 
streets of Constantinople, you will see sometimes a 
fair creature listening to a scribe, who is translat- 
ing, verbatim, in some door way or nook, the epistle 
she has received from these regions. M. KhanikofF 
wrote for me the names of eleven of the clans of 
Tcherkess, viz. : Oobykh, Chapsoogh, Natskooadje, 
Scheguck, Abadsekh, Bjedookh, Kamurggoi, Eyve- 
rookay, Gatukay, Mekhoch, Tesliney. 

The Carbardians (population 45,000,) descended 
from the same stock, speak the same patois, but 
many of them the Turkish. 

The Aphazians, (population 136,000,) speak an 
Aphazian language, derived from one of the most 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 421 

ancient — the Georgian ; as is also the Gurian, Section iv - 
Mingrelian and Heffsuvian. 

Though the tribes have their hereditary chiefs The great 
and princes, who keep a free table, and are served 
by nobles and their serfs, in times of war acknow- 
ledge usually one superior leader. At present, that 
person is Shamihl, the greatest hero of modern 
times. 

In 1785, Cheik Mansoor, came from Bagdad Mansoor. 
preaching a crusade. In 1791 he was taken pri- 
soner, and sent to a monastery on the White Sea, 
where he died. In 1823, a Bucharian scholar, 
called Hasmahomet, came and obtained many fol- 
lowers, among whom was Kaseemoolah, who agi- 
tated a war with Russia, and gained to his standard 
7000 men. He then attacked the fortress of Wne- 
zapnaia and slaughtered many of the inhabitants ; 
afterwards went to the town of Kaslar and plundered 
it ; but was finally defeated by General Kahanoff, 
in the vicinity of the fort Boornaya. In 1832, Ba- 
ron Rosen led an expedition against him, and 
stormed the village Gymroc, where he abode. It 
was a most brilliant but sanguinary affair. Gene- 
ral Albrant lost here his arm, and Kaseemoolah 
was killed ; he was found dead in a house, his 
left hand grasping his beard, andhis right, a two- 
edged cama. Gumzalbek took his place ; but hav- Gumzal- 
ing fled, after being defeated by the Russians at 



422 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 



section iv. Q^jga^e^ was killed by some of his own sect at 
Hoonzah. 

Gumzalbek is said to have been a very able 
leader, but with more ambition than religion. The 
immediate cause of his death was this : At Hoon- 
zah, he met with a very lovely woman, the widow 
of the chief just deceased, and he sought to marry 
her. She however assured him that her grief and 
her being with child must prevent it. He did not 
desist in his suit, and was about to take her by 
force ; which, reaching the ears of the beautiful suf- 
ferer, caused her to collect the servants about her 
and demand of them the death of her persecutor ; 
saying to them, — " Ye are worse than women if 
ye have not the strength and courage to defend 
the wife of your lamented master." One of them, 
named Hadgemuzad, inspired by her charms, took 
at once the oath, (so sacred with all this people,) 
to kill Gumzalbek at the very next mosque-service ; 
G. having suspicions, gave orders, but unavailingly, 
that all who came to the mosque should come un- 
armed. Hadgemuzad concealed a pistol in his bo- 
som, and when all were kneeling, he shot dead 
the chief. The widow lives with one she loves 
better. 

Bhamihl. Shamihl, the Abdel Ivader of the eastern tribes, 
now rises up, and more than fills the place of Gum- 
zalbek or Hasmahomet. He is a native of the 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 423 

same village in which Kaseemoolah was killed — Sectiox lv 
in the commune of Koesooboo. He was a peasant, 
his parents very poor, and he gained a livelihood 
by dancing in the streets, and selling fruits. He 
also studied Arabic, and was such a proficient that 
he became the most eminent disciple of Gumzalbek ; 
and when the latter was killed was looked to as 
his best successor. He has now for years been a 
successful leader of the Circassians, and among 
them he bears a charmed name. Some of the Rus- 
sians, however, say that he never appears personally 
in combat, but only gives general directions ; and 
yet tell the following story about his method of 
gaining power over the minds of his followers. 

A great attack was to be made on a Russian en- 
campment. When the morning came, Shamihl 
caused it to be reported that he was dead, but that 
in dying he had left word that they should not fail 
to carry out his plans, and his spirit would be with 
them accordingly. They went, disheartened, to the 
scene of battle. Shamihl watched them at a dis- 
tance, and on the instant when he saw tha' they wa- 
vered, he descended from the mountains, and as his 
white charger came sweeping over the plains, all 
thought it bore his ghost, and the cry of Shamihl ! 
Shamihl ! ran galong the battling lines, hung above 
the sounds of strife, and electrified every heart ; 
but when his bright sabre like lightning was seen 



424 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section iv. c i eavm g the enemy, his hosts became invincible ; 

they fought like madmen, and were victorious. 
Expedi- The expedition of Salta, in which Shamihl and 

tion of 

Salta. Prince Woronsoff were so conspicuous, is consi- 
dered the most memorable that has distinguished 
the army of the Caucasus. I will give an outline 
of it, as well as I can make it up from various ac- 
counts I had from persons who were connected with 
it ; hoping that the prince will excuse the ignor- 
ance I display of military tactics, and my arrange- 
ment of some of the plans of this battle. 

Salta was one of those strongholds of the Cir- 
cassians, the taking of which was deemed one of 
the most important events in the history of the 
Caucasian war. Its subjugation was of such mo- 
ment, that Prince Woronsoff himself passed that 
mighty chain of mountains which has so long been 
the seat of those fierce struggles that have moved 
the world with wonder, pity and astonishment, and 
led or directed in person the expedition sent against 
it. The Prince was even suffering from ill health, 
and much was done and said to deter him from the 
long and dangerous journey and hazardous enter- 
prise ; but he knew too well the character of the 
person who commanded the enemy, to trust it to 
others less experienced in the art of war than him- 
self. Besides, he was aware that many of his brave 
officers and good soldiers were to perish in the at- 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 425 

tack — many personally known to him, and some SECTI(m IY " 
to whom he was attached in friendship ; and with 
that nobleness of soul which has ever characterized 
him, he could not but partake of their toils, and 
share in their dangers. He knew, too, that his 
presence would overawe the soldier who would 
hear nothing, obey nothing, fear nothing but the 
command of his superior, while it would inspire 
confidence and courage in the officers, assured that 
each noble deed of daring would neither escape his 
notice nor go unrewarded. 

With such feelings as these, he bade an affec- 
tionate adieu to his accomplished princess, (who, 
from the high balcony of the palace, watched him 
till, descending to the banks of the Kur he was lost 
to sight,) and for the hundreth time passing that 
rapid stream which hurries on through the valley 
of Tiflis, and rolls its roaring waters between the 
rugged hills and rocky ravines of this capital of New 
Russia, he commenced his journey. Wearisome 
though it might be, it lay along one of the most 
picturesque routes which could possibly be formed 
by the combining of all that is sublime and ma- 
jestic in natural scenery, with the ingenuity of man. 
He reached the northern side of the Caucasus, and 
descended into the plains of Kabarda, where he 
joined the forces prepared for the expedition. When 
the news arrived of his near approach, the utmost 



426 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

s«moH iv. j Qy an fl en thusiasm pervaded every bosom. Each 
battalion, drawn up in order under its respective 
commanders, showed to double advantage, as the 
light of a clear and serene sky fell on the burnished 
arms of the waiting mass, already animated by the 
tidings that he who had foiled Napoleon was to be 
their leader ; and when he came to enter between 
those long, firm lines of devoted soldiers, when, 
as with one accord, the whole presented arms, 
it was a sad but thrilling sight, though it was 
observed that he sat more erect in his saddle, and 
that a gleam of satisfaction and content passed 
over his noble face. On the following day, at 
early light, the drums beat to arms. The rapid 
moment of the officials, the gathering of luggage 
carts, the numerous couples that were seen at the 
cottage doors leave-taking, showed that a march .of 
the army was about to commence ; and when the 
sun went down, bright weapons and white tents 
were seen glistening far away, on the brow of an 
elevated range of land that looked towards the hills 
of the Lesghini. 

For some days, their course was along the fertile 
savannas of Chechentsy, with the Terek on the left, 
hurrying its well-stocked waters to the Caspian ; 
while those bold peaks and jagged passes which 
had been so long contested and yielded up one by 
one, as the heart's life blood, to the superior force 
and genius of the Russians, lay on their right. 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 427 

At length they turned from the plains, and en- S£CTI0y IV - 
tered those long mountain denies, whose sterile and 
sombre sides, and sunless twin ravines — where the 
bat flies by day, and where night adds little to their 
gloom — show them so unworthy of the wealth that 
has been expended on them ; and, continuing their 
route, now more difficult, though free from those 
fierce enemies which had long since, by similar 
expeditions, been driven out from it, finally en- 
tered the territory of Lesghini, and in two days 
more were near the scene of a now memorable 
event. 

The Lesghini — the most savage and fearless 
tribes of all that dwell on this great wall, which 
seems intended by the Creator to mark the boun- 
dary of a nation, and to be inhabited by a people, 
(till, at least, a new civilization should dawn upon 
the earth,) wild as the fastnesses they were to defend 
— knowing of the invaders step, whose noise to 
their ears was like that of the rushing wind through 
a well clothed forest, came gathering from hill and 
vale, and mountain crag, and aerial, table-land, 
as the alarm fires from the watch-towers which 
crowned each giddy height, blazed up with fitful 
and portentous aspect, sent their light along from 
peak to peak, and spread over the heavens a tint 
blood-red and significant, which, reflected back from 
the shifting clouds, spread a lurid and fearful glow 



428 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section iv, over ^ gi oom f the deepest glens, and into the 
very mists of those hidden caverns, fit only for the 
wild beasts, but inhabited by a hunted people, and 
now echoing to the sound of human feet hurrying 
to battle. They came as the locusts, borne on the 
sirocco ; they sprang up from places where none but 
a mountaineer wo old have dreamed that mortal 
dwelt ; and as stars come out as the shades of even- 
ing advance, so appeared these sons of the hills, 
covered with glistening arms, when a foe, who 
sought to bring the night of oppression upon them, 
drew his dark folds about their homes. 

Salta was the place of rendezvous, and here the 
brave Shamihl, the Napoleon of the Circassians, 
gathered his faithful followers and awaited the 
enemy. 

Salta is situated in the heart of that vast congre- 
gation of mountains which fill up the greater por- 
tion of the region between longitude 63 and 65 E. 
and latitude 41 and 43 N. In the gradual retreat 
of the inhabitants as the Eussians from year to 
year advanced their posts, Shamihl had pitched 
upon this position, not only for its great beauty, but 
because it could easily be made defensible, there 
being but one approach to it, where a force of any 
magnitude could manoeuvre — that on the east ; for, 
to the north and south, nature had reared her ada- 
mantine walls to such a height that the eagle only 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 429 

knew their summits ; while to the westward, the Sectiox iv - 
little sparkling rivulet of the Kou-cy — which came 
down from the valley above, cheering with its cease- 
less music the children of the plain, as well as the 
villagers of Salta, as it passed through the centre of 
the town, and around the temple of the prophet — 
descended over precipitous rocks, which shut up 
that pass, and was lost to sight long before the 
sound of its successive falls ceased to come back 
upon the ear, or the mist which ascended from it, to 
be seen rising up the sides of the gorge that seemed 
cleft solely for its passage. Thus hemmed in, it 
was to them for a time as the vale of Rasselas. 

The Kou-cy, which fertilized the soil, and gave 
to the faithful the daily means of purifying them- 
selves according to the injunctions of the Prophet, 
hurried away from this green spot, and soon joined 
a river of the same name ; then, continuing north- 
ward till free from its mountain boundaries, wound 
away eastward through some broad plains, and en- 
tered the Caspian Sea. 

A short distance from Salta, up the valley of this 
stream, a little path, known only to the natives, 
turned suddenly to the left, skirted along in its ab- 
rupt ascent the edge of a projecting ledge of rocks, 
called the coup de main, that overhung the open 
space — the scene of the Russian encampment, then 
retreating, led the way to more distant heights 



430 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

steady iv. an( ^ £ ar ff va ]2 e y g Through, this the women and 
children had disappeared on the approach of the 
enemy, and by this the great captain and his few 
surviving warriors eventually saved their lives, and 
breathed again that pure air which seems to brace 
them for fresh combat. 

When, after those years of long and fruitless 
contests on the frontier, of which I have spoken, 
Shamihl raised here his standard, hundreds of the 
Lesghini, who love war, neither for glory, pay nor 
honors, but for its mere excitement, flocked around 
it as the palladium of liberty ; or, more truthfully, 
of rapine and plunder, built here their little castel- 
lated houses, and surrounded the whole by a strong 
wall. 

The town and fortifications arose as by magic ; 
they were not of slight structure, but firm like the 
rocks around them, from which the laborers had 
derived instruction ; and the subsequent batterings 
they afterwards endured, showed how well the 
work had been done, and with how much skill 
planned. This, however, was not all that was re- 
lied on. At different distances, outside the walls, 
large pitfalls were dug, and slightly covered with 
brushwood, over which neither cavalry nor artillery 
could pass. From within the walls, underneath 
them, and under the ground, were dug also long 
galleries and chambers, which extended far out into 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 431 

the plain, having over head numerous apertures, S£CTIoy lv 
just large enough for the passage of the barrel of a 
musket. 

In such a position, girded by such strength and 
covert ways — with numerous cannon that had been 
from time to time clandestinely supplied to them 
by the Turks — with gunners, and engineers, and 
officers, the high spirited Poles had sent among 
them — with the temple and standard of the Pro- 
phet in their midst — their hatred of the northmen 
and natural aversion to the strides of civilization ; 
and, above all, with Shamihl for their leader, his 
charmed name and presence — we can well imagine 
that in the fullest confidence of success they awaited 
patiently the approach of the enemy. 

On the evening preceding the battle, Shamihl 
called together his officers and addressed them as 
follows : — 

" Our brethem westward have ceased hostilities. 
They have submitted, at least seemingly, to wear 
patiently the chain which never ceases to gall them. 
Their full-blood steeds which were wont to bear 
them nobly over these wild passes, and fiercely in 
battle, you will now see on the plain roads drudg- 
ing for their enemies. Our nation, thus far, has 
made due oblations to the standard of our Prophet, 
and has never bestowed upon it churlish honor; 
for which reason his strong arm has drawn for us 



432 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section iv. fa e string of our bows, made tough the steel of 
our knives, and turned from our bodies the pointed 
weepons* and iron messengers of our foe. Our 
beacon-fires burned brightly last night, and the 
faithful have gathered as to a feast, and we are 
numberless ; for the Prophet is with us, and He is 
host. 

" That we shall all survive this new defence of our 
sacred temples, is not asked for; and he who de- 
parts first shall be happiest in paradise. If we are 
not victorious, let the slaughter we make of those 
Christian dogs atone fully for our defeat," " In- 
shallah !" (please God, J responded the listeners, — 
" We sleep to-night as beneath the veil, which, lift- 
ing, reveals to us the glories of our holy Prophet's 
abode," continued the speaker, " and to-morrow we 
fight in his name ; and where you see floating the 
banner of your chief, be sure that your defence be 
there swift and strong." " Mashallah !" (hi the 
name of God,) again answered the officials ; and the 
soldiery, who had also gathered in the great square 
in front of the mosque, from the steps of which 

* He referred here to the bayonets of the Russian guns, for the 
Circassians have been taught to believe, I know not by whom, that 
to be run through, with one of those weapons, is being stuck like a 
pig ; and any thing that has any relation to such a sacrifice is of 
course abhorred. They consequently have never stood a charge of 
bayonets, but always fled in utter consternation when such has been 
made. 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 433 

Shamihl was haranguing his staff, caught up the S£CTIoy ^ 
acclaim, and with one universal shout, Mashallah 
was sent ringing through a thousand valleys, while 
the hill sides sent back the echo like mingled 
music. 

When the speaker had finished, he turned and 
entered the sacred edifice for prayers. 

Under cover of the night, the Russians had 
drawn up their forces, as many as could conveni- 
ently manoeuvre, on the small plain to the east of 
the city, placing their cannon in the most com- 
manding position possible, but which, at best, was 
far from what was desirable. It was at first in- 
tended to carry the place at once by storm, and 
commence the assault under cover of the artillery; 
but this was soon seen to be impracticable, and a 
new order of battle had to be arranged; but at 
early dawn the firing commenced, distinguished by 
all that accurateness and energy which has ever 
accompanied the Russian arms. 

But the astonishment of the assailants can better 
be imagined than described, when there opened 
upon the mfrom every embrazure of the till now 
walls, the most terrific and well directed heavy 
ordnance they had ever encountered. 

The prince at once remarked that another than 
Shamihl commanded there — that some European 
' had the direction of affairs. This was too true ; 
27 



434 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section iy. f Qr an ex Q e( j Polish officer had sought out the 
home of the chief and volunteered his services in 
the war against the common enemy. 

Eager for renown, and well skilled in military 
tactics, he had enlisted, he thought, in the great 
cause of Liberty, willing to stake limb and life in 
her defence. But he had, like many others, mista- 
ken his people. Believing them to be a band of 
patriots, he joined with them heart and hand, but 
found them (say the Russians,) to be an unprinci- 
pled horde of robbers, without the honor or hon- 
esty of thieves ; and trusting to their perfidious 
characters, which he thought elevated and noble, 
like the Highlanders of Scotland, and generous as 
his own compatriots, met with a fate too great a 
number of his countrymen had courted in the same 
field of doubtful glory. 

He had, it seemed, promised to save this place 
from the enemy if he was allowed the management 
of the defence ; but having failed in it, though 
from no fault or want of ability of his own, and 
having escaped with the rest when his skill was 
found unavailing and defeat sure, he was stabbed 
by a hundred different hands, as one by one of 
those whom he had tried to serve, passed him in 
their retreat. He was found soon after and honor- 
ably interred, and mourned over by many a brave 
soldier, as a brave officer, deserving a better destiny. 
But to return to our fight. 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 435 

The position hied by the Russians, though the SectI05 Iy 
only one that could have been occupied with any 
advantage, was found to be untenable unless the 
enemy's batteries could be immediately silenced ; 
for they were sweeping down the ranks that 
stretched along the plain, and were shattering their 
solid flanks as lightning the resisting iron. The 
prince accordingly ordered the town to be carried 
by storm, and officer and soldier, alike forward to 
do their great champion's behest, moved earnestly, 
firmly, and steadily to the assault. But as they 
advanced, the former, one by one, fell dead before 
their columns ; for there issued from the ground 
invisible destruction — the Circassians being se- 
creted in those caverns they had made, watching 
through the small apertures the opportunity to 
pick off with their bows and muskets the most dis- 
tinguished of the enemy. Consternation seized 
upon the troops, for they knew not on what they 
were treading. Balls issued from beneath their 
feet, which seemed to stand on solid ground ; and 
from every quarter where least expected, there 
flew thickly, literally, the arrows of death — these 
mountaineers being as expert with the bow as 
with the rifle. 

Without leaders the troops stood still, wavered, 
and were about to fly, when the prince himself, 
with all his military ardor, appeared before them, 
27* 



436 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section iy. an ^ i ec [ on j. Q fa e yerT ram p a rts. Two of his dis- 
tinguished generals fell dead at his side, but there 
was no more halting* — no more delay. Breaches 
were made, the walls were scaled, and officer and 
man strove, with fatal energy, to gain there a foot- 
ing. But the Damascus blade and the slender 
knife, resistless in their course, glistened in their 
thousand angles, as they cleaved alike the air and 
the enemy ; and where the fight was thickest, there 
waved the sacred banner. Shamihl himself bore 
it, seeking out those places most pressed by the 
enemy, and at those points, as he had ordered on 
the previous night from the steps of the temple, aid 
and defence was swift and sure. 

Night descended early and gloomily down the 
mountain sides, and settled darkly over the valley. 
The scene of strife had ceased, but not the work of 
sadness ; for within the town all were busy gather- 
ing and burying the dead, repairing the walls, and 
preparing for new defence. 

Day came again, bright and beautiful, but its 
light fell upon a wearied and exhausted people, 
who, to invigorate and purify themselves with wa- 
ter, pray, and be ready again for battle, turned 
first their steps to the abundant fountains, which 
here, as in every Moslem city, were numerous and 
of rich and costly device. But what was their asto- 
nishment when they found them all dry — that not 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 437 



a drop of the cool and never failing Kon-cy passed 
into the marble basins, nor even flowed longer 
round the holy mosque. A murmur of despair went 
up from every habitation ; and curses, long and 
loud, swelled upon the breeze till they came to the 
wondering Shamihl's ears. Listening to what had 
happened, he hastened to the watch-tower, which 
stood at the eastern end of the town, and over- 
looked the field of the encampment and far along 
the valley of the vagrant stream, and discovering 
at once the origin of the evil, returned to the great 
square, and from the steps of the temple, where 
hardly a day before he had so stirred the fiery 
spirits of his belligerent horde with the certitude 
of victory, that they were as ready for the contest 
as willing to embrace their own offspring, thus 
addressed the alarmed multitude that now followed 
him : 

" Faithful and loved of the Prophet ! our ene- 
my who could not conquer us, has with that 
cunning which surpasses his strength, turned the 
stream which flowed hard by these sacred w r alls, 
into another channel dug in the darkness of the 
night, while we were performing the accustomed 
rites and solemn ceremonies for our dead. This 
has been well ordained, for those waters, polluted 
by the beastly blood of our hated foes, could no 
longer cleanse us, and it would have only added to 



Section IV. 



438 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section iy. our necessity of ablution if we had continued to 
wash therein. Tis well, I said ; and to-night we 
will bathe our swords in those currents which flow 
through their unhallowed souls, and will wash 
them hereafter in purer streams afar off. When 
the deepest sleep has fallen on them, you will cut 
your way to the pass that leads to your children 
and your wives — Shamihl will be with you. In- 
shallah ! responded the people ; for their fears 
ceased, and their hearts were quieted, while, with 
their thirsting lips they prayed for the close of 
day. 

The comprehensive and ever active mind of Wo- 
ronsoff could not fail to discover the most speedy 
and effective means for the subjugation of an 
enemy, and he instantly hit on the expedient of 
changing the course of the stream on which he was 
encamped, and which he judged was the only 
source of supply of wholesome water the inhabi- 
tants of Salta enjoyed. His men accordingly, when 
day and battle had ceased, were set to the work, 
and by the time of another dawn, the river ran in 
a new channel, southward of the city. 

The calm of that summer morning, which spread 
out its golden wings over the rude works of na- 
ture that hemmed L in these armed bands, seemed 
to pervade every heart, and perfect tranquility and 
peace rested on the town, which it was supposed 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 439 

would soon surrender. The prince, also, wishing to SECTIoy Iv 
save as many of his brave soldiers as possible from 
needless battle, remained quiet, without making 
any further demonstrations of hostility. 

The day finished as it had begun. But, at mid- 
night, the tramp of hurrying horse, tbe sound of 
new havoc, and the clash of arms, swept through 
the Russian tents, and in an instant all their occu- 
pants were engaged in a fearful struggle with the 
escaping enemy. 

Shamihl and his immediate attendants had passed 
the pickets before any well organized defence could 
be made ; but those who strove to follow were op- 
posed at the sword's point, and the slaughter at 
once became dreadful. 

The Circassians were fighting for their lives — 
for, by this route, along the valley of the stream, lay 
their only way of retreat, and they had the great 
advantage of their enemy by being fully prepared 
for the onset ; while the latter had little more 
to gain than was already falling into their hands, 
and had been aroused from sound sleep — the drum 
that beat to arms, calling also to battle. 

But none could have acquitted themselves more 
honorably than did the Russian soldiery. With 
pistols at their breasts — with the withy blades of 
Damascus wreathing over their heads, or with the 
two-edged cama gleaming before their eyes, they, 



440 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section iv. sworc [ hi hand, grappled with these wiry Mussul- 
men, and hundreds were the steeds that passed on 
without their riders. 

The few that escaped from this bloody affray 
rushed up the narrow path to seek the bewildering 
and rugged heights above ; and as they wound 
their way high up along the edge of the mountain 
crag of the coup cle main before described, the 
moon burst out from a dark cloud, and Shamihl on 
his black charger, bearing the banner of the pro- 
phet, was seen standing on its boldest cliff. His 
bright steel coat of mail glittered in the light, and 
he seemed a spirit resting half way between heaven 
and earth ; for his sacred standard waved amid the 
clouds, and his noble animal, fearless as its rider,, 
had advanced to the very brink of the rock, wait- 
ing, motionless, the faithful few that had so sig- 
nally escaped death. 

And now this discomfitted and disappointed 
band came filing along the summits of those great 
barriers which they thought no enemy could ever 
pass or dare to assail ; and looking down on 
the distant and diminutive mosque and minaret > 
town and tower, and fatal rivulet still glistening 
in the moonlight like a silver thread, all were 
silent as the shadows about them ; but when they 
came to the spot where Shamihl was last seen by 
the enemy, each one drew up his rein, and paus- 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 441 

ingibr a moment, gave an andible farewell to the Section iv - 
graves of too many of his late comrades that now 
rested from their labors in the glen below ; then 
turning away his horse's head, departed for those 
caverns and distant haunts from which the beacon 
fires had so lately called him. 

The Cossacks, when they discovered the w^ay by 
which these Lesghian brigands were escaping, 
sprang to their saddles from which they had just 
dismounted, and assayed to follow. But the sturdy 
horse that could gallop unweariedly over the sterile 
steppes of the north, stumbled at the first precipitous 
and rugged pass, and came rolling down upon those 
behind him ; and when danger was added to the 
difficulty of advance, and even that of returning in 
the path ascended, all were glad to find themselves 
safe again, on the plain from which they had 
started. And now, aware that no further struggle 
would be required that night, they laid their 
saddles under their heads and slept soundly till 
morning. 

The day found many of them posted within the 
walls of Salta with orders for the construction of 
new fortifications, while the remainder of the vic- 
torious force turned back towards the plains of 
Cabarda. 

An account of this expedition was sent to the 
Emperor Nicholas, the substance of which appeared 
in several journals, and was as follows ; 



442 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

SE0TIoy IV "After a hot and obstinate encounter on the 
morning of the 26th of last month, Salta was taken. 
It was besieged by our troops from the 19th to the 
21st. "We had lost three superior officers and one 
hundred and seventeen soldiers ; the wounded were, 
one staff officer, twenty-six superior officers, and 
361 common soldiers. Salta is itself an important 
village, but circumstances, and especially the strong 
fortifications, and the incredible exertions of Sha- 
mihl to defend it, rendered the taking of it the 
most important, and in fact the indispensable con- 
dition of a happy termination of this difficult and 
tedious campaign, and for securing the tranqui- 
lity of South Daghestan. The hindrances and the 
difficulties were astounding, and exceeded all ex- 
pectations. The most desperate and the most vali- 
ant ^Muride, had been called from every part of the 
Daghestan for the defence of this point. There is 
scarcely a village, nay, scarcely a tribe throughout 
the whole of the insurrectionary mountain, which 
had not friends or relatives in the garrison of Salta ; 
and they fought with a valor and endurance as if 
the failure of this encounter involved their very 
existence. Never before had they fought with such 
pertinacity, the battle of Acheilgo, perhaps, ex- 
cepted. Every step was the price of blood, and 
therefore the commander-in-chief hesitated at first, 
in order to avoid, if it were possible, the storming 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 443 

of the whole of Salta unless he was forced to ex- S£CTI0N IV 
tremes. At last, on the morning of the 26th ult., 
after our artillery had taken very great effect, and 
after tremendous bombardment from 80 lbs. mor- 
tars, which had been brought into these mountains, 
we stormed in two attacks, with our weapons in 
our hands, only that which was indispensably ne- 
cessary to effect the garrisoning and fortifying of 
the right or northern side of the Oral, from whence 
we could almost entirely cut off the garrison from 
obtaining a supply of provisions. The waters flow- 
ing towards the enemy were spoiled by us ; and all 
that remained to him was a little spring at which 
the exhausted soldiers endeavored to quench their 
thirst, under the fire of the troops stationed in the 
garden, on the side of Koisen. The miserable 
creatures, spent with hunger, and quite disheart- 
ened by the fatal encounter of the morning, sepa- 
rated and fled in all directions, and fell under the 
bayonets of our troops. Major Count Orhelm, 
with a company of the regiments of Prince Paske- 
wich, and a detachment of the Achtinski foot mili- 
tia, met the main body division of the fugitives, 
which carried with them a cannon and the banner 
of Omar Molth, who had latterly had the supreme 
command in Salta. The greater part of this multi- 
tude were put to death in an instant. The cannon 
and the banner remained in our hands, and not 



444 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section iy. ^^ £ fae enemy that fled from the Orel escaped 
our bayonets, and the loss which the followers of 
Shamihl have sustained in the recent encounters 
cannot possibly be estimated at less than three 
thousand men." 

On the receipt of this, the emperor wrote to his 
viceroy of New Russia the following elegant and 
affectionate letter : — 

Nicholas' Peter •sburgh, Oct 24. 

" Prince Michael Semexowitsch, — I desire 
heartily to congratulate you on the rapid and bril- 
liant taking of Salta — a deed of arms which you 
undertook upon mature deliberation, for the pur- 
pose of securing peace and tranquility in the dis- 
tricts of Daghestan, subject to us. In the victory 
which you have just obtained, as well as in all 
others, all the dispositions of which fully accord 
with my wishes, I recognise with the most lively 
acknowledgment, a pledge of the future happy 
results of your administration in the country com- 
mitted to you. 

" Accept my sincere thanks for the signal ser- 
vices which you have rendered with so much self- 
denial and entire disregard of your health. Bear- 
ing in mind that you commenced your public career 
in the civil service, and that, following the bent of 
your inclination, you entered the military service 
in that part of the country, whither your son, 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 445 

Count Semen, has invariably accompanied you, SECTI0?f IY 
sharing with you all the dangers and fatigues of 
war, I cannot deny myself the pleasure of endea- 
voring to lead his services in the path hitherto pur- 
sued by you. I have assigned to him the Preo- 
braschenski Regiment of Life Guards as staff cap- 
tain, and have attached him to you in the sure hope 
that, treading in the footsteps of his valiant fa- 
ther, he will, like him, be a bold and distinguished 
warrior. 

" I remain always, your unchangeable well 
wisher, " Nicholas." 

Trebizonde, 25 th. Seated down with seven Turks Leave Re- 
dout-Kale 

around a pot of coals, under a low, dark awning, 
I passed the day and evening of the 16th in the 
quarantine at Redout-Kale ; and I should have 
been content, had I not discovered that the boat we 
were in was overrun by body-lice. I have thought 
heretofore I would not mention this disgusting ver- 
min, but I have seen too much of them to be silent. 
I met with the bete on entering the Crimea, and 
have been annoyed by them, more or less, in almost 
every hut and house that afterwards sheltered me ; 
for they infest palaces as well as hovels, and prin- 
cesses and peasants are subject to the incomparable 
nuisance. 

On the 17th, I again entered the Euxine, passed On the 

Euxiue. 

Churuku, when a storm coming up, drove our 



446 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

Section IV. ggg.g^eH [ n l Q ^ e g Ur £ J wag carr i ec [ I1 shore Oil 

the back of a Turk, assisted in getting the vessel 
up on dry land, and there passed the night and the 
following morning, till mid-day ; then put out to 
Batum. sea, and on the 19th, reached Batum, a small Turk- 
ish village, pleasantly situated, but not healthy. 
The bey, who rules here, lives about four miles from 
town, on a rock, in a palace, within a wall that 
The Bey's mounts ixve guns. He is said to be daring and hu- 

Favorite. & p b 

mane ; and of him a story was told, which shows 
something of his character. He, with his twelve 
wives, were on board a foreign vessel at Trebizonde, 
and the captain presented the favorite lady with a 
handsome dress. Some months afterwards, this 
seaman was cast upon the rocks at Batum, and 
when the signal gun of distress was fired, the bey, 
with his eighty retainers, went out, perilling their 
lives, and saved him and his crew. 
Beautiful In the evening, we once more set sail, yet by mid- 

Scenery. 

' night had again to draw our boat on the shore, 
where frowning cliffs and dark ravines and caverns 
invested the place with all that is fearful as a haunt 
of pirates ; but, when morning came, the scenery 
was changed to beauty. While exploring one of 
these valleys, I found the tower of what was said to 
have been a Genoese church ; near it some Turkish 
graves, and a little further along, in a most roman- 
tic and lovely glen, a beautiful old stone bridge, 
with one high arch, all overhung with vines. 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 447 

A rough, sea kept us here all day, but, on the fol- SECTIOjr IV 
lowing morning, we resumed our voyage ; and our American 
men at the oars, for the two following days and 
nights, sweeping along a coast of varied and beauti- 
ful landscapes, such as our distinguished artists, 
Cole, Huntington, Doughty, Fisher, love to paint, 
landed us in this ancient Trapezus. 

Learning that Messrs. Bliss and Powers, our ex- Messrs. 
cellent missionaries resided here, I hunted up their Powers 
dwellings, and the hearty welcome they gave me, Z onde. 
as the only American traveller they had ever met 
at this place, unconnected with their mission, was 
very gratifying ; while the hospitable wishes of the 
former that I should spend a few days with him, 
made me feel as among kindred and friends. 

But here I am compelled to afflict my heart sore- 
ly, in not having space for a discription of this place 
— its present and future prospects, and the labors 
of these devoted missionaries, who have had, until 
now, innumerable obstacles to surmount, owing to 
the bey's hatred of them, on account of their hav- 
ing, at Beyrout, frustrated his designs on two Ar- 
menian sisters whom he wanted for his harem. 

Constantinople, February 7th. On arriving here, 
I felt that I had got nearly home. After leaving 
Trebizonde, we went to Samsoun, where are yetsamsoun. 
some portions of the walls of ancient Amisus. 
Here we took in much grain, fruit, tobacco, and 



448 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 



Section IV. 



wild fowls ; then proceeded to Sinope, a place found- 
Sinope. ed before the Persian empire, named after the loved 
Apollo's one whom Apollo brought here, and famed as the 

Lfi.\ stress 

* place where she gave birth to a son ; but more fam- 
Diogenes.ed as the birth-place of the cynic Diogenes. Its 
citadel is composed of rare fragments of ancient 
temples, and is the principal ©bject of interest. It 
is becoming a place of considerable commercial 
importance. 
Bospho- After being on board the Turkish steamer four 

rus. 

days, we entered the Thracian Bosphorus ; and sur- 
rounded by one continued scene of enchantment, — 
more enchanting still when the city of the Sultan 
burst upon my sight, I reached the Golden Horn, 
and went at once to the mansion of our excellent and 
J- P. accomplished dragoman, Mr. Brown. Presented to 

Brown. 

his excellent lady and her amiable mother, I found 
myself in one of the most delightful of domestic 
circles — one that will be the first to greet my 
memory whenever my thoughts turn to the Orient. 

Mr. B. has spared no pains to make my stay 
agreeable and instructive — has introduced me to 
our distinguished minister, Mr. Carr ; to our consul, 
Mr. Porter ; and to the Armenian Oscanyan, known 
in America by his marriage with the worthy Dr. 
Skinner's daughter, now the mother of three of 
the loveliest children human eyes ever rested on. 

The mother of Mrs. B. is sister to the late Com- 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS, 449 

modore Porter, and from her I learned much con- Sg0TI0S IV - 
cerning the last days of that lamented, high-souled 
officer, which, at some future time, I hope to be 
permitted to relate. 

I shall not attempt to describe this place; but Constan- 

-II • • tinople. 

when the meilow morning or evening light rests 
on her marble domes, her gilded spires, her costly 
fountains and verdant groves, and on the glow- 
ing and gently undulating bosom of the Marmora 
and Golden Horn, it so blends and harmonizes the 
whole, that when once beheld, it becomes as a last- 
ing inspiration of the soul. 

Of sights and scenes, customs, habits and nations People 
represented here, a hundred volumes might yet be Customs, 
written. The men most distinguished in public life 
are slaves from Circassia ; in private, the women of 
that country. In form and feature, the fair ones 
of Trebizonde, Constantinople, and Smyrna, differ 
as do those in all other nations ; but here, perhaps, 
the extremes are more noticeable, from the fact 
that many of the dames boast of the wild, clear 
blood of the Caucasians ; some, of the olive hue of 
the Greek ; some, of the bright flush of the Guriels, 
and others of the calm spirit of the people with 
which thev dwell. The manners and habits of the 
Turks, however, soon to some extent, assimilate them 
all. The large but elegant form of the Caucas- 
ian woman loses its compact, fresh, mountain-bred 
28 



450 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section iv. e l as ticity, and expands into the fat, majestic and 
voluptuous, which has ever won the high admiration 
' of the Ottoman, and given to these Circassian ladies 
their world-wide fame. The brunette laughing-ones 
of the iEgean are tamed by their destiny, and become 
like all the others, pallid from excessive use of the 
warm, enervating baths, and seclusion from the air. 
The humble, gentle maidens from the Phasis, have 
less change to undergo, — soon bid adieu to that 
winning blush, with which nature blessed them, 
and can hardly be known except by more regular 
features, and milder expression, from those of the 
land they have adopted. 

I have seen one in Smyrna from the borders of 
the Caspian, who was an embodiment of the pale 
light of a cold morning, but in rotundity 'would 
have answered for a female FalstafF. Here, too, in 
Constantinople, I have met them from other distant 
regions, with chalk-like complexions, walking and 
riding with an air of supreme contentment, evi- 
dently revelling in a luxury and ease to which they 
were not born, while a peculiar light, flashing from 
the blackest of eyes, which seemed to have concen- 
trated in them all the fires of ardent, brilliant, con- 
sumed souls, told of the wayward feelings of some, 
and of longings unsatisfied. 

The natives generally ^ not knowing anything of 
the pleasures of knowledge, are contented in their 






TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 451 

ignorance, and negative felicity. Naturally pas- Secti °* iv - 
sive, submissive by education, indolent: :c, 

ng nothing from change, and enjoying nothing 
of its novelty ; they teach these foreigners the luxu- 
ries of the baths, and the endurance of the lassitude 
they produce — -interest them in the endless gossip 
of the harem — have children, nurse them, and pre- 
*e for repose under the ever mourning cypress. 

hen these fair creatures referred to are brought The 

• -n 1 7 Women 

into what is called the slave market, the sensualist Slaves. 
casts his eyes on the rounded limbs, the fairly de- 
veloped form of the mountain maid, and purchases 
her at any price. The fiery youth is captivated by 
the long dark eye-lashes and olive-tinted cheek of the 

vean girl. The quiet, domestic man choses one 
of his own clime ; while the poet, the lover of those 
things in which Nature has shown a more refined 
and delicate handling, finds himself enchanted with 
the mild expression, gentle mien, and purely classic 
features of those who have bathed their youthful 
feet in the famed waters of the Phasis, and been 
bred in the mild atmosphere of the valley between 
the Caucasus and the Ahalzic hills. 

May 14. On board the Margaret Evans, Capt. Down the 

J ° Mediter- 

Tinker. I took a French steamer and proceeded to renean. 
Smyrna, then to Athens, then to Malta, where I 
was quarantined for twelve days ; but had the gra- 
tification of seeing the famed, venerable Mehemet 



452 TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 

section iv. ^fo w ^ came f r0 m Egypt for his health. From 
here I went to Sicily, and attempted to enter 
Messina, but it being in a state of revolution, our 
boat was fired upon from the castle. I then con- 
v tinned on to Naples, Civita Vechia, and Genoa, 
where I was again welcomed by my distinguished 
C. Ed- countryman, Mr. C. E. Lester, who, though, now — 
Lester, by that strange and detrimental policy which char- 
acterises our government of often changing its 
foreign representatives, however capable they may 
be — no longer consul, was the only one there 
conversant with the duties of the office. 

Mr. Lester stood among the Italians as a man of 
letters. He was made a member of -the highest 
Italian institutions of literature, more particularly 
for his manv able Italian translations, and Life of 
Vespucius — the first elaborate book on the subject 
in any language. His contributions to the Italian 
journals gave an impetus to the popular cause, and 
the Pope honored him with a medal. His house 
was open to all, and to his table, most generously 
supplied, his countrymen were ever welcome ; while 
his saloons were nightly the resort of men of learn- 
ing and taste, from all parts of Europe. 

Returning After a stay of two months more in Italy, I join- 
ed Mr. Lester and his family on their way home- 
ward. We again crossed the Apennines and the 
Alps, and arrived in Paris on the day when two 



TOUR TO THE CAUCASUS. 453 

hundred thousand men were under arms to declare SECTI °* 1V - 
their support of the Provisional Government. Be- 
fore we left, we saw the great Lamar tine, — he Lamar- 
who would have been the Washington of his coun- 
try, had his country been deserving of him — on 
his way to the hall of the National Assembly to 
resign the office he was so worthy of — one he had 
so honorably, signally rilled, in the nation's most 
perilous hour. 

When we quitted France, it was in a sad and England 

and 

gloomy state. We passed over into Old England, America, 
to see the priests and nobles ride over the necks 
of her starving millions, and took the first good 
ship bound to our own, free and happy — our 

NATIVE LAND. 

I am grateful to you, my courteous reader, for 
your companionship, and hope that our " Tour" 
has been as diverting to you as it was agreeable to 
me. 



THE END. 






APPENDIX. 



A. There are many persons — some in Genoa who have interested 
themselves in the subject — who believe Columbus to have been born in 
Coquileto, a little village on the sea shore, about seventeen miles from the 
former City ; and a dwelling, now the Caffe de Colombo, is there shown to 
visitors as the veritable one in which his mother bore him and nursed him. 
It is a small, two-story brick and stone, plastered building, quaint enough, 
like that of Shakspeare's, to have enshrined the germ of a great genius. 
I visited the place in company with our distinguished Consul and two other 
Americans, Messrs. Bostwick and Sherwood ; and the excursion — the 
drive along the beautiful riviera — will be one of our fairest bouees in the 
quicksands of memory. 

On page 216, Appendix A. refers to Appendix C. 

B. Agamemnon having killed Diana's favorite stag, which, perhaps, was 
one of her metamorphosed lovers, was obliged by the goddess to give for a 
sacrifice his daughter Iphigenia. She was obtained from her mother on 
the plea that Achilles wanted her for a wife, and when arrived at the spot 
where the immolation was to have taken place, Diana, unlike the godd 

of the present day, had compassion on her beautiful rival, and bore her 
away to this Chersonesuz Taurica, and made her a priestess in the temple. 
Sometime after, Ipigenia's brother arrived here with Pylades, and as it 
the custom ot the Tauri to sacrifice all strangers to Diana, he was about 
felling a victim of his obedience to the oracle at Delphi ; but the pric 
discovering who he was, contrived to escape with him, and carry oft at the 
same time the famed statue of Diana, so celebrated and so desired in 
Greece. Tbis is extremely interesting, so far as it goes to show the 
state of the country, and its ancient relationship with the yEgean. 

Cherson was sometimes called Chersonesa Scythica from its inhabit 
and Chersonesa Magna. 

C. The Turkish language is a Tartar dialect, and from the many 3 
of intimate intercourse between the Circassiansand Turks and Tartars, the 
former are generally more or less acquainted with the idiom of their 
neighbors, and call many places by Turkomanish itsins 

referred to bear the Tartar name of Dcv 6 the starry bills. 



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